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Equipment Discussions >> Binoviewers

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lucien
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Reged: 05/15/08
Posts: 32
To Baader Mark V, or not!
      #2598140 - 08/23/08 08:57 AM

I have a TEC 140 and tried to use it with a Baader MKV bino, the best, so to speak. Mr. Baader told me I could try it out and if I didn't like it I could send it back and get a complete refund, which is what I did, read on...The MKV has two clicklock eyepiece holders. I once had a diagonal of Baader with this clicklock thing and I didn't like it at all, because each time I inserted an eyepiece, it came out of the clicklock full of grease on the barrel! Before ordering the bino I mentioned this to Mr. Baader, and he assured me he would personally make shure I got a bino with two clicklocks that wouldn't have this problem. When it came in, I opened the box and first thing I tried was putting two eyepieces into the holders to see if there was no grease as promised, and when I pulled the eyepieces back out, there was...hm, indeed grease on the barrels. Not so much as with my earlier clicklock, but it was there allright!! So you can imagine that after inserting the oculars several times, which I tried, there was still a large enough amount of grease on the barrels. No big problem, but still I don't like my hands full off grease in the dark.....before you know it everything is full of grease and sooner or later...well you get the picture. I don't think this is necesarry on such expensive equipment, no?

Than second thing I found out is that those clicklocks on the MK5 are so short that you cannot completely insert certain eyepieces with slightly longer barrels like certain radians and nagler type 6, pentax XF etc...No big deal you would say, but...since the eyepiece is not fully inserted in the holders, you cannot adjust the diopters anymore! O.K., there is a solution for this by just adding two rings between the eyepieces and the holders and now you can adjust the diopters again, but still one more item to fiddle with and i.m.o. not so good for such expensive equipment. In the Televue bino you insert whatever you want and without the grease problem. There is no diopter adjustment on the T.V., I know, but this brings us to issue nr. 2! Allthough the diopters are there and fully adjustable the thread is sooo fine that it takes forever to adjust an eyepiece with them, but, they are there and they work, but could be much better for such expensive equipment!

When I assembled the whole parts together, I found out that when I tried to screw the bayonet onto the T-2 diagonal prism that came with it, the screw to lock this bayonet was pointing towards the nosepiece side of the prism. Now I could not push the diagonal into the TEC, because this screw hits the end cap of the TEC. Than I tried to use the supplied plastic washer between the diagonal and the bayonet,on top off the allready installed washer, (two washers now) same story. I called Baader and an employee there told me I could also try to use no washer at all (metal on metal). I didn't fancy this a lot because this might damage the paint on the diagonal, and was afraid they wouldn't take it back when damaged. But I just had to try this, and it worked more or less. Now I could at least insert the whole thing into the TEC, allthough the screw now sat under the bino, instead of behind it, which works, no problem, but is not too easy when you want to remove the bino. But since the bino and the corrector where meant to stay there forever, I could live with this. Allthough on the pictures on their website, this large screw sits nicely behind the bino, but still no big deal, just a slight annoyance, and one more negative point for Baader that's all.

Now I tried to focus this thing and it worked, but the whole heavy thing wiggled inside the collet of my TEC 140 focuser, but this is not the fault of the bino but of the focuser (is replaced now with Astrophysics stuff, which works great now!).

I first tried two Baader 30mm Eudiascopics and they were o.k. and comfortable to use. Than the 20mm's TV plössls, hm, o.k. but the 13 mm's or so eyerelief was the limit for my comfort, but still o.k., but only 61X magnification and therefore useless on the moon and planets (o.k. for complete moon in the eyepiece, but not for detailed viewing). On than to the 15mm plössls from TV...useless I.M.O., because much too little eyerelief for my likings and still only 82X magnification.

I did not want to try the 2,6 X corrector, because this one is known to be inferior to the 1,25X and the 1,7X, and this last one also only gives me 111X with the 15mm plössls, so not good. Than I tried to use the whole contraption with the Barcon barlow. I screwed the glassparth of the barcon in front of the diagonal, as sugested by A.P.This barlow now served also as the nosepiece of the bino. This would give enough magnif. O.K. lets try it out! Oeps, focuser completely racked out and no focus point, *BLEEP*. This thing starts to work on my nerves now! So I used an extention tube now. O.K. focus point reached, enough magnification, BUT, what a sight now, a completely racked out (very heavy!) focuser, then one long extention tube (heavy) and at the end, way back behind the TEC 140 one heavy block (barcon/diagonal/bino/two eyepieces). I looked if everything was locked well in place, cause I didn't want to see this thing smash onto the concrete floor! The extention tube wiggled inside the focuser, but as mentioned before, this was not the bino's fault, but the focuser's (O.K. now!), but oh my God the barcon element, now used as a 2" nosepiece, was wobbling heavily inside the extention tube. Now I saw what was wrong here! As you screw the barcon into the diagonal there remains a gap of 5mm's or so between the diagonal and the barcon, because there is a different thread on the outside of the barcon, for using it as one complete barlow. Now the bronze ring of the extention tube did catch right in that 5mm gap, which prevented the barcon to be well locked inside the extention. So, not good enough for me.

So let's try to reassemble the barcon and put it completey assembled in front of the bino. O.K., now the bino didn't wiggle inside the barcon anymore, logical. Try to focus...njet, not enough backfocus! So an even longer extention would be needed now. O.K. now I stopped cause I have had enough of this fiddling with all those different bits and pieces.

I gave up and send the whole shabla back to Baader, got a refund as promised. Now I am using Pentax XW eyepieces, in mono mode, great eyerelief and extremely comfortable to use. Exit binoviewing for me, at least for the time being. If I should ever decide to use a bino again, I would simply take the Televue with it's 2X dedicated corrector, simply plug it inside my 2" diagonal and enjoy using it, without extentions, wobbling barcons etc...Now mind you, I did not say anywhere here that the Baader is not a fine bino, but much to much fiddling around with adapters, extentions etc..for my likings with this particular scope anyway.


But there are other minor issues with Baader. When I send the bino back, I ordered a 2" maxbright mirror. When I opened the box, I immediatly saw that there was one screw completely sticking out of the housing and when I screwed it back in I saw that all the other 3 screws just sat loose in the housing? No big deal, once again, just as with the bayonet of the bino, but still, not good i.m.o. for such expensive equipment. And there was yet another issue with the diagonal! While the bino had a nosepiece of 43mm lenght, this nosepiece was only 26mm long. Very short for a 2" nosepiece. I insert the diagonal in the collet of the TEC and guess what? It even wobbled more than other 2" accesories did! Now, once again, this is the fault of the collet of my focuser, now replaced, and o.k. 100% by A.P. stuff, but still....I would like to see a decent 2" nosepiece of 45mm's or so on such an expensive heavy diagonal, like the ones you can find on the Televue Everbrites or the A.P. maxbrights or even the Williams' etc.., instead of a short thing of only 26mm's! So this diagonal also went back pronto to Baader and once again I got a refund, no problems, but not for me anymore! By the way, a acquaintance of mine from France, told me his Baader 2" prism diagonal was not good neither! The prism was sitting completely loose in the housing and not collimated at all. He did not send it back, but stuck something between the diagonal and the housing to correct this! Not done once again i.m.o. with such expensive high-end equipment.
Just my 2 cents, yours may vary off course!

P.S. To end on a positive note,let me point out here that Baader has been correct about all this and immediatly gave me a 100% refund without any discussions whatsoever!
Clear Skies,
Lucien


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suburbanskies
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Reged: 12/18/04
Posts: 198
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Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: lucien]
      #2598953 - 08/23/08 03:52 PM

Hi Lucien,

A few years ago, I had a TEC140 and Baader V binoviewer. Yes, I had a grease problem and the diopter adjustment is a pain and the bayonet screw is inconveniently located! But, I had no problem using the AP Barcon screwed into the prism. Focus was easily obtained with the focuser racked out only half way. I'm not sure why you reached focus so far out. Did you by any chance accidentally have the 1.7x screwed in when you added the AP Barcon?

Mark


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lucien
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Reged: 05/15/08
Posts: 32
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: suburbanskies]
      #2599927 - 08/24/08 08:24 AM

Hello Mark - Yes I had the 1,25X corector screwed in together with the barcon, because I needed these magnifacation factors. You're right, the barcon element gives no problems in the focuser but it did in the extention tube I used which has a bronze ring inside that caught in the groove of the barcon! Just the barcon element alone did not give me enough magnification.
Clear Skies - Lucien


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Paul G
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Reged: 05/08/03
Posts: 1744
Loc: Freedonia
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: lucien]
      #2599964 - 08/24/08 08:59 AM

I bought my Mk V from Astro-Physics and have had none of the problems you note.

Zero grease.

The nosepiece with the setscrew is replaced with the Astro-Physics AP16T, a screw-in tapered 2" nosepiece that eliminates the screw altogether. And the Barcon element screws fully into the AP16T, eliminating the problem with the gap as well. Interesting how much difference one little piece makes.

My eyes don't change from day to day, so I set the diopter once and haven't had to mess with it since.

It is interesting to note that the binoviewer of choice for personal use by Yuri, the designer and manufacturer of the TEC 140, is the Mk V.

--------------------
Gus


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Rick
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Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: Paul G]
      #2600275 - 08/24/08 11:26 AM

This grease issue is strange to me too. None in my MV. However, I did have the same annoying grease issue with the cheap Baader Maxbrite binoviewer.

clear skies,
Rick

--------------------
www.japanastro.com


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lucien
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Reged: 05/15/08
Posts: 32
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: Paul G]
      #2600606 - 08/24/08 02:33 PM

Gus - Shure there is no problem with the AP16T you mention, neither was there a problem with the Baader nosepiece I got with the bino, WHEN or if I'd screw the barcon element into the nosepiece itself, so that little piece does not make one iota of difference to me. Off course than the gap is gone, logical. But it is when you screw the barcon DIRECTLY into the prism diagonal itself, as adviced to do by an A.P.'s employee (I believe, or perhaps Roland's wife?), and use the barcon element as a nosepiece in itself, when the gap shows up and the problems too. Off course, as explained above, when putting it into the focuser itself, no problems, but intio the extention tube, problems! I did not want to use the barcon in front of the nosepiece, because this did not give me the wanted magnifications, but wanted to screw it directly into the diagonal, as I was told to by A.P.that's all. I did never say that the MKV is not good, neither did I ever say that it did not work with the TEC, just that it did not work at the magnifications and configurations I wanted to use it in. Some clicklocks have the grease problem, as another forum member also said, and others don't have it, as simple as that. The clicklock on my mirror diagonal had it and this bino had it. This should not happen with this equipment, even if is does not happen with all units. And the problems, well at least the weird placement of it anyway, with the screw on the Zeiss bayonet seems also to be acknowliged by another forum member, so I am clearly not the only one with these issues, nor am I sucking them out of my thumb. The eyeholder problems I had are also acknowliged by this other member. He also speaks of a real pain to use! These diopters are no good, period. On such a fine bino there should be "Lapides" style diopters. And they should at least be long enough to except radians or XF's without having to use rings on the eyepieces, for crying out loud.

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Sergio E
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Posts: 67
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Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: lucien]
      #2600844 - 08/24/08 04:33 PM

I still using the Mark V from long time on C14, C8, TSA 102,
on the sky and terrestrial use, every-time without any corrector. My eyepieces are Pentax XV 7, 10, 14, 20mm.
Nagler 9mm type 6, 16mm type 5, Panoptic 24mm.
Taka LE 30mm, TV pl 40mm.


I'm totally satisfied of the results, never seen any grease on the eyepieces.

Some time ago I needed a second bino, after looked at all that present on the market, considering the strong euro, any other bino were cheaper, but I bought a second Mark V.
To be honest, this second bino seemed a very little better then the
old (never cleaned), but I had to return it for repair (made stronger the tension of adjusting system) I was surprised about the few time to come back.

Yesterday night I had the nice surprise to see the central star of M57 in indirect vision.
Clear sky
Sergio
Adding notice.
The Taka TSA was made shorter by a home made eyepiece holder, to permit reach focus.
The Baader quick look holder, was, bay personal amendments, used also on the 90° mirror and 45° WO erecting prism.
Never found problems to hold Radian 6mm and Nagler zom 3/6.(only one, never bought the second because there are better choice).
The only problem I found is for use the Nagler 12mm type 4, that is very well, but in this case the problem is done bay a strange idea of TV that is limiting the possibility of use whit the 2" not removable holder. The same for the news Ethos. One day I will cat the 2" parts that is so unusual.

I've wrote, any corrector, is not true, in some case, on the C8 and C14, I use the Baader Alan Gee telecompressor, ( Focal reducer) to have larger field, without any vignetting on the mentioned eyepieces.

For comparison
Miyauchi Saturn II at 22x field 2,27° (official dates)
Taka TSA plus bino, plus TV pl 40mm about the same magnification and the same field, but far better images absolutely apo and free of vignetting.
Clear Sky's
Sergio

Edited by Sergio E (08/25/08 12:44 AM)


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Paul G
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Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: lucien]
      #2603552 - 08/25/08 09:04 PM

Quote:

Gus - Shure there is no problem with the AP16T you mention, neither was there a problem with the Baader nosepiece I got with the bino, WHEN or if I'd screw the barcon element into the nosepiece itself, so that little piece does not make one iota of difference to me. Off course than the gap is gone, logical. But it is when you screw the barcon DIRECTLY into the prism diagonal itself, as adviced to do by an A.P.'s employee (I believe, or perhaps Roland's wife?), and use the barcon element as a nosepiece in itself, when the gap shows up and the problems too. Off course, as explained above, when putting it into the focuser itself, no problems, but intio the extention tube, problems! I did not want to use the barcon in front of the nosepiece, because this did not give me the wanted magnifications, but wanted to screw it directly into the diagonal, as I was told to by A.P.that's all. I did never say that the MKV is not good, neither did I ever say that it did not work with the TEC, just that it did not work at the magnifications and configurations I wanted to use it in. Some clicklocks have the grease problem, as another forum member also said, and others don't have it, as simple as that. The clicklock on my mirror diagonal had it and this bino had it. This should not happen with this equipment, even if is does not happen with all units. And the problems, well at least the weird placement of it anyway, with the screw on the Zeiss bayonet seems also to be acknowliged by another forum member, so I am clearly not the only one with these issues, nor am I sucking them out of my thumb. The eyeholder problems I had are also acknowliged by this other member. He also speaks of a real pain to use! These diopters are no good, period. On such a fine bino there should be "Lapides" style diopters. And they should at least be long enough to except radians or XF's without having to use rings on the eyepieces, for crying out loud.




No need to be defensive, my post was not meant to be critical of your assertions, merely to relate my own experience. My specific responses to your points above follow:

1) As far as the gap present when the Barcon element is screwed directly into the prism diagonal, I will post some photos that will illustrate the problem for those who aren't familiar with the equipment. Lucien is correct, AP recommends this as one option as shown in their Mark V Assembly Diagram:

Mark V Assembly Diagram

Here is the AD16T alternate 2" adapter screwed into the prism diagonal. The distance from the end of the 2" adapter to the body of the prism diagonal is 29.5mm, but there is a 3.5mm deep flange that sits flush against the prism diagonal and an extension tube or focuser buts up against the flange, not the prism diagonal, giving a 26mm net 2" adapter but taking up 29.5mm light path.



Here is the 2" adapter from Baader made for the MkV that has no flange and is a straight 25mm from the end of the adapter to the diagonal body against which an extension tube rests. This is recommended for use in the AP Stowaway f5 and f7 where that few mm shorter adapter makes the difference between coming to focus or not.





Here is the AP Convertible Barlow (Barcon); it separates into a short section containing the optics and a short extension tube.







As you can see, there are two sets of threads on the eyepiece side of the optics section, an inner and an outer set. The outer set threads into the AD16T, no problem.



It will not thread into the alternate 2' adapter, even though that is threaded. Apparently the Baader threads aren't the same or there is something in its threads preventing the Barcon from being threaded into the adapter more than one revolution. I don't want to screw up my Barcon finding out.

Here is the problem Lucien found. The Barcon optics section threads into the prism diagonal via the inside threads and seats solidly, leaving the outside threads as a gap between the prism body and the smooth outer portion of the optics housing. It is 30mm from end of Barcon to the diagonal body, of which the gap containing the outer threads is 6.6mm long.



This causes no problem at all with the regular AP 2" extension tubes since the compression ring doesn't begin until 7.4mm in from the outside of the lip, missing the gap entirely.





The short extension tube that is part of the Barcon only has an outer lip depth of 6.4mm and if one inserts it fully with the compression ring very loose, then cants the extension tube at an angle, it will catch where the two edges meet if you withdraw the extension tube still canted at an angle. The compression ring is wide enough that if you tighten on the Bacon in this configuration it is quite solid since it is primarily in contact with the smooth outer surface of the Barcon with only 2mm of it suspended over the gap. Other extension tubes that rely on that last 6.6mm may not fare so well, and if I understand Lucien's post correctly he had just such a problem. The regular AP extension tubes eliminate this problem.

2) The grease issue. I empathize with Lucien. I am extremely picky about my toys and have little tolerance when they don't live up to my expectations. If I were to find grease, even the tiniest speck, I'd ship it back to Astro-Physics for a thorough cleaning.

3) The setscrew on the Baader bayonet interfering with the focuser. Mine protrudes underneath the entire setup, out of the way of everything, but the setscrew is ~28mm long (!) so if it were in a different position it would interfere with anything wide into which the diagonal were inserted.



I have a second bayonet, I think I bought it from AP but I don't remember (unlike the Baader it has no manufacturer markings), that has a setscrew only 10mm long and it may solve the problem for those who run into Lucien's issue.

4) Clicklocks too short to allow a long Radian or Nagler t6 insert go all the way in so the diopter adjustment would still be functional. Lucien is incorrect here, but it was a common misperception when the MkV first came out. Both sides are fine threaded and have a long range from fully in to fully out. If they are screwed into the inner part of their range long eyepieces will bottom out on the safety shelf inside the binoviewer. The simple solution is to screw both sides out to the outer portion of their range and eyepieces like the Radian will behave normally and the diopter adjustment will function just fine.

5) MkV diopters are "no good, period" and should be Lapides style. While I understand Lucien's frustration, I find the eyepiece holders on the MkV to be the best I have used. For reference, I have used the original Zeiss binoviewer (no diopter adjustment), the first Baader Giant binoviewer without diopter adjustment, and the Lapides eyepiece holders with diopter adjustment on the Baader Giant binoviewer prior to buying the MkV.

While the Lapides eyepiece holders were an improvement on the nonadjustable stock holders on the Baader Giant binoviewers, offering brass compression rings in addition to diopter adjustment on one side, they had their own problems. One is that only one side was threaded for adjustment and there was no capability to adjust both eyepiece holders outward. Not an issue if you are only setting it once for your eyes with short eyepieces, but a real problem when long barrel eyepieces like the Radian came along. The Lapides holders would allow the Radians to sit so low that the long barrel would stike the prism face on one side (hit a shelf above the prism on the other side). Ouch!!! The fix, a kludgy one at that, was to open up the prism housing on one side and install a plastic insert that would catch the end of the eyepiece barrel and protect the prism. The problem there was that it wasn't at the same position as the shelf on the other side, so a variety of workarounds were used including rubber O-rings on the barrels and even nice metal rings sold just for that purpose.

The Lapides eyepiece holders also didn't center the eyepiece like the MkV holders do. OTOH, the Lapides holders allowed diopter adjustment when the eyepiece was locked in while in the MkV the diopter adjustment must be made prior to locking the eyepieces. YMMV, but having used both extensively the benefit of the MkV's self-centering of the eyepiece far outweighs having to make the diopter adjustment with the eyepieces unlocked. However, as I noted in a previous post my eyes don't change relative to each other so the diopter adjustment is something I do about once each year. Some people mistake the diopter adjustments for "individual eyepiece focusers" and in that case they would indeed be a pain to use. But that isn't what they are designed to do, there's a knob on the scope for that.

--------------------
Gus


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Terry O.
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Reged: 07/24/08
Posts: 10
Loc: Northern California
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: lucien]
      #2603984 - 08/26/08 01:33 AM

Lucien, I second all that Paul G. has written.

I, too have had the Baader Giant Bino, Baader Giant Bino with Lapides holders, and now a recent Baader Mark V. And the AP Barcon.

As Paul wrote,the Baader Mark V has significant advantages over the others.

(And my Mark V has no grease problems.)

I hope you get this sorted out as the results (when performing) are quite special.

Terry O.


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lucien
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Reged: 05/15/08
Posts: 32
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: Paul G]
      #2604096 - 08/26/08 04:48 AM

Gus, I wasn't trying to be offensive or defensive at all. I don't speak English, I speak French and Dutch, so I suppose it came over this way, which happens all the time when I write something in English, a language I donnot know very well at all! I see exactly the same thing happeninig when people mail to me in French, when they are no French speakers, they don't know it, I off course do, but I don't make remarks about it because I know they don't have the finesses in French, like I don't have them in English. That's the way it is unfortunately, it is either this or I should mail in French or I don't mail at all in CN:)

But, I read your thread and it is the first time inmy live I have seen a decent explanation about how to use these things! I have been completely missinformed as well by Baader as by A.P.!! I shall try to respond to the points you have made, without trying to be de- or offensive

1)The AD16T seems indeed MUCH better than the Baader unit, which by the way is now another one than the one in your picture. It now has a stupid groove in it, which is not so good, because not compatible with all adapters & holders. I did not try to screw (I hope this word is not understood as something different )the barcon in front of the nosepiece, because A.P. told me not to do it??? They insisted in screwing ( ) it directly into the prism housing, so I obeyed ( )to them with the known results. Yes Gus that's exactly what happened with the gap in the extention thing I was using, but i had no other and I had to try it because if I had to send it back, as I did, I only had a couple of days to test everything out.

2)The grease was there period and it was also there with another clicklock I once had on another diagonal from Baader, period ! I hope this is not offensive:)

3)My setscrew sat exactly where yours is sitting WHEN and only then, I used no plastic washer and screwed( ) iron upon iron. Not so good if you have to send a screw damaged bino back?

4) Once again apparently BADLY informed, this time by Telescope Service in Germany! I wanted to order two Radians or two XF's for the bino and they told me they wouldn't work in the bino because of the too short holders, can you ( ) believe this?

5) See 4

Conclusion: If I would have been better informed by Baader, by Astrophysics and by Telescope Service, it might have turned out completely differently! I would have taken an A.P. nosepiece and would have screwed the barcon in front of this nosepiece, or I could have tried another extention, and I could have used the XF's and the Radians without problems with the eyepiece holders. Off course there would still have been that grease problm and the setscrew iron upon iron thing. Now the setscrew would not have been much problems, should I have kept it the bino would have stayed permanently on the prism, but the grease???
Anyway thank you Gus for explaining a bit to me. I think many off the people who are selling this stuff should not tell things to people that is

Edited by EdZ (08/26/08 06:58 AM)


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Tamiji Homma
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Reged: 02/24/07
Posts: 391
Loc: California, USA
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: Paul G]
      #2604492 - 08/26/08 10:49 AM

Hi, Gus.

Thank you for documentation. Manufacturer should follow
your example.

System chart is good but it sometimes fails to show nuance,
details, 3 dimensional orientation etc...

Your picture shows exactly what I wanted a coupe of weeks ago

I bought MarkV/T2 prism diagonal/FFC from Astro Physics last month.
It has been a joy to use the precision equipment and well
thoughtout flexible configuration by Astro Physics/Baader.

I am experimenting various barlow configurations,
2x/4x Powermate, BARCON, Baader FFC, Takahashi TOA 1.6x extender.

They are all excellent, light throughput, contrast.
It is hard to see any difference by casual observation.

I am planning careful comparison and if I find anything
interesting, I'd would like to write a review.

Tammy


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lucien
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Reged: 05/15/08
Posts: 32
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: Paul G]
      #2606469 - 08/27/08 04:26 AM

Gus - I was wondering if you know the exact magnification when you screw the barcon glass element in front of the A.P. AD16T nosepiece without any of the Baader GPC's? I have asked this to Mr. Baader and to A.P., but they both did not know this?!? Anyway I think it should be somewhere around X2,5 no?

Also, Gus, when you use the barcon in front of the nosepiece, did you notice any diffence in quality against let's say using the 1,7X GPC alone? More colour, no colour, sharpness...??? Does it need more outfocus or infocus than the 1,7X GPC alone?

You know I always wanted to use the barcon this way, but not only does the thread of the barcon not fit in the Baader nosepiece I had with the bino, BUT Mr. Thomas Baader himself as well as Roland's (A.P.) wife specifically mailed me to not use it this way, but to screw it directly into the prism's housing?!? Well we all saw what happened then with the gap and the bronze ring of the extention tube.

Gus, you have been very helpfull with your clear pictures and explication. I wish the manufacturers could be more helpfull here, I feel they just leave it up to the customers to experiment and they are not interested in giving decent info about their merchandise, no?
Clear Skies
Lucien


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vahe
member


Reged: 08/27/05
Posts: 27
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: lucien]
      #2607318 - 08/27/08 01:09 PM

Quote:


I did not want to try the 2,6 X corrector, because this one is known to be inferior to the 1,25X and the 1,7X,




The 2.6X GP is indeed inferior to the 1.25X & 1.7X for the simple reason that all users assume that it should be mounted on the binoviewer the same way as the 1.25X or 1.7X GP’s, not true.
Contact AP for proper mounting directions or do a search on Yahoo ap-ug on the same topic, there have been some recent discussions on the proper mounting method for 2.6X GP.

Vahe


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lucien
member


Reged: 05/15/08
Posts: 32
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: vahe]
      #2608911 - 08/28/08 04:23 AM

Yes, I know it must be mounted the other way round than the other two, but Mr. Thomas told me it is not meant to be used with a diagonal on a refractor. manufactured ONLY with newtonian telescopes in mind. He told me there must be nothing between this 2,6X GPC and the lens or mirrors, like diagonals etc.. I just repeat what Mr. Baader told me, he even pointed out that I should listen to him because of all the experience he has in the field?? By the way, there is also a thread here of someone who has tried the 2,6x in the correct way, and he came to the same conclusions, that it is much inferior to the other two?
Lucien


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Paul G
Carpal Tunnel


Reged: 05/08/03
Posts: 1744
Loc: Freedonia
Re: To Baader Mark V, or not! new [Re: lucien]
      #2611289 - 08/29/08 06:37 AM

Quote:

Gus - I was wondering if you know the exact magnification when you screw the barcon glass element in front of the A.P. AD16T nosepiece without any of the Baader GPC's? I have asked this to Mr. Baader and to A.P., but they both did not know this?!? Anyway I think it should be somewhere around X2,5 no?




I haven't tried to caluclate it but that sounds about right.

Quote:

Also, Gus, when you use the barcon in front of the nosepiece, did you notice any diffence in quality against let's say using the 1,7X GPC alone? More colour, no colour, sharpness...??? Does it need more outfocus or infocus than the 1,7X GPC alone?




I don't know. I only have the 1.25x and it usually stays installed unless I'm using the f14.6 Mak-Cass in which case I sometimes remove it. Either way I see no difference in color or sharpness when using the Barcon with or without the 1.25x GPC.

--------------------
Gus


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