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tommyhawk13
sage
Reged: 09/28/07
Posts: 477
Loc: Jacksonville, Fl
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This was my first prime focus attempt with the Meade SN-8 f/4 scope, my Yashica FX-2, and Fuji Provia 400X.
I say this is poor, because at about 7 minutes into the shot, I noticed the guide star drifting in dec. I stopped the exposure, and went back to the drawing board, so to speak.
My next roll has several attempts at wide field piggyback.
I asked the lab to push the film to compensate for the 7 minute exposure. I had another roll of fireworks, and asked them to do the same.
They said they pushed one, but I can't tell which one.
In the lab, on the light table, the stars looked like sailboats. I hung my head low and took the uncut roll home to scan it anyway.
Several hours later, I was surprised to see that the stars didn't look as bad as I thought as far as guiding goes, but it is clear that I was not in focus.
I used a hartmaan mask, but I think I had better luck with the f/6 starfinder.
I have since bought an Oly Om-1, a Stiletto, and I am waiting for a Catseye telecat, autocollimator, a 5mm Il ret, and these pesky clouds to go away.
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Meade Starfinder 8,Meade SN-8 OTA, Orion Atlas, and a handfull of film cameras
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Nebhunter
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 10/04/03
Posts: 999
Loc: Frostbite Falls
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We all tend to hang out heads, but you need to hold it up. We have a steep learning curve, and little time in the field, plus a difficult task compared to DSLR.
I learned that it's 1 step at a time - and it's sometimes going backwards. You have made a good purchase with the OM-1 and the STI. Simply put - poor focus - poor image. Now you have the tools to fix that. Spend some time with the STI to learn it. Myself I prefer the 300 Ronchi screen, but on bright objects you need the knife edge - ie: moon - Jupiter.
Nebulae are mostly red and 400x is not that good there. I used Provia F before and on Comet Holmes etc. it gave a purple cast to the image. I have since switched to Kodak E200 and I prefer it. I ordered mine from B&H - prices are good and delivery is very fast. E6 processing so no problem getting that done most any good developer.
Keep at it. The first frame was a good start. Keep notes on everything in a notebook so you can build on the info down the road. I hope your scope has a 2 speed focuser. You really need a fine focus to dial in with that STI.
Igor - still working at it as well.
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Handle me with Care - The Traveling Wilburys.
TEC 140 "Katyusha" - Tec field flattener. Equinox 80 -
Atlas EQ6 SynScan GPS ADM conversion. ST-4 guider.
PENTAX 67 - 400 EDif - 300 - 200 - 135 - 90 lenses.
OM-1 300 Tamron - Konica 35-100 Varifocal STI Pro Stiletto.
http://nightfly.zoomshare.com/
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tommyhawk13
sage
Reged: 09/28/07
Posts: 477
Loc: Jacksonville, Fl
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I honestly thought this was going to have star-trails when I was shooting it, so I stopped the exposure at about 7 minutes.
I was pleasantly surprised at how much it picked up in such a short time, and the focus turned out to be more of a killjoy than the alignment. Of course if it was in focus, it would tell the true story.
I've been jumping back and forth between E200 and the Provia. My next roll to develop is E-200 with a few piggyback shots. I chose the Provia this time because I had ambitions of going for the Trifid (after the Lagoon), which has a lot of blue. By the time I realized that the aligment wasn't perfect, Sagitarius was sinking in the West.I've always heard that Provia was better for blue. I will try the Provia again this weekend, if the clouds don't show up.
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Meade Starfinder 8,Meade SN-8 OTA, Orion Atlas, and a handfull of film cameras
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Nightfly
super member
Reged: 06/20/07
Posts: 187
Loc: Sullivan, Maine
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Your photo of M8 reminds me of an early attempt I did in 1985 with a 5" RFT, same area. My stars were not perfectly focused and I had tracking problems as well. It didn't stop me. Keep at it. Your work will improve. Keep posting your progress.
Jim
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Jim Cormier
Sullivan, Maine, USA
www.nightfly.zoomshare.com
Pentax 67 with 55, 105, 165, and 300mm lenses
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