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groz
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 03/14/07
Posts: 1038
Loc: Duncan, BC
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Ok, work has been hectic for a month, and I've had little / no time to sit here and read on things. Took a break this morning, did a little reading, hunted a few details down, and specifically went back and read older threads on measuring transits etc.
Short history, chris and I started down the road of taking 'pretty pictures' using the telescopes and dslr cameras 3 years ago. We've slowly upgraded equipment, and have reached the point where we have everything we need to do some great stuff with the 'pretty picture' dlsr photography. Chris has always been an avid photographer, so, she's really enjoying this newfound photography application. So, imagine my surprise over dinner the other night when she pipes up 'I think I'd like to try doing exoplanet work'.
In all the threads, and re-reading everything here on the subject, as well as a few other places, the most important lesson I've taken from it, first learn the limits of existing equipment, then, if and only if, those limits prevent you from doing what you want to do, start looking at new equipment. To do photometry for measuring an exoplanet, we need to be able to measure magnitude changes at the 0.01mag level. Here's the list of cameras we have, and, the reasons _I_ believe they are unsuitable.
dsi-pro - To many hot pixels. My particular copy of this camera has an inordinate number of hot pixels at 30 second and longer exposures. At 2 minutes it's got a huge background gradient, probably some kind of thermal issue with the electronics. I can do 0.1 mag measurements with it fairly strait forward, but, getting accuracy to 0.01 mag just isn't going to happen. The noise / gradients etc are going to drown out any measurements at that level. In the dead of winter, when ambient temps at the telescope are well below freezing, this camera is pretty good, most of it's problems seem to go away, but that's only 2 months of the year. That suggests to me, a similar camera with 20 or more degrees of cooling can give much better results.
dslr - We have 3 different dslr varieties here, but, they've all got 12 bit a/d converters. I cant get the precision needed using 12 bit a/d, and the bayer matrix is a bit of a hinderance.
qhy5 - normally used as a guide camera, but, can be used as a 10 bit monochrome imaging camera. It's pretty noisy on longer exposures, and 10 bit a/d is not going to cut it. I haven't tried a real time stack and add process with this one. It'll take a fair amount of time/effort to write a program for that, and I dont have the time in the next few months, work wont allow me to take that kind of time.
My conclusion, if we want to seriously measure some of these things, then, a different camera is going to be required. At present, I've kind of narrowed it down to two options, and, am interested in feedback from folks on my train of thought for each.
Option one - This is the cost effective option. Starshoot II which is somewhat better resolution than the dsi-pro, and it's cooled, so, should be useable for a much longer part of the year. For us, middle of the summer is irrelavent anyways, we get a month centered on the solstice where there is really no night to speak of. It does get dusk, but, at these lattitudes it doesn't get dark. The drawback to this camera is, unregulated cooling, so, we'll have to build up libraries of darks at various temperatures, which means initially, taking darks with every session. With this camera, we'll still need an autoguider, but, both of our kits already have the Kwiqguide and it works well. If we go this route, the starshoot camera would be used primarily in the 8 inch SCT with a 0.5 focal reducer inline. I'll need to add a filter as well for this one.
Option two - Not so cost effective, but, substantially more capable. I've been looking at the used market for an SBIG ST-2000XM, and they can be had complete with filter wheel and filters for a price that is about 8 times that of the starshoot, but, a reachable number. Regulated cooling and a much larger sensor. Most of the used ones come complete with the filter wheel and a set of filters, so, it's also useable as a 'pretty pictures' camera. For us, this would mean we can build a dark library for specific temperature points, and not have to shoot darks at the time we do the real measurements. it also opens up some other potentials, and, these are the specific things I'm wondering about, and hoping folks with more experience in this subject can flesh out for me. We'd probably use this one with the 0.63 reducer on the C8.
- Since the transit stuff is a lot of frames over a long period, I'm thinking that I could use the filter wheel, shoot successive frames behind different filters, and end up with light curve plots for different parts of the spectrum, all from one evening of shooting. The idea is, once I've established the exposure time required behind each filter, change filters between every shot. Is this a valid concept ?
- And here comes the real 'off the wall' idea we had, and I'm really curious about your thoughts on this one. Again, considering that transits are slow events, so there's plenty of time to do various types of images in each phase, we were contemplating this. In the 5th slot of the filter wheel, most folks seem to put an Ha filter, we were thinking of putting a diffraction grating in. So, the idea is to take two spectrum shots before the transit, two more during the transit, and a couple more after. Assuming I can solve the issues of spacing between the filter wheel and the ccd, as well as deal with the re-focussing required (all of our telescopes have motofocus on them, which we can control from the computer), would there be any chance of 'useful' spectrum data taken this way during an exoplanet transit ? I'm thinking specifically of something like the star analyzer sitting in the 5th slot on the filter wheel.
Ok, any and all feedback is interesting. We are going to spend some money now, just haven't decided if we are going to 'go small' or 'go the gusto'. If our thoughts on putting the grating into the filter wheel actually have merit, that may well be the deciding factor for us....
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jgraham
Postmaster
   
Reged: 12/02/04
Posts: 6695
Loc: Dayton, Ohio
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I think for serious work you're gonna want a regulated cooler. From what I've seen of monitoring a single target over a prolonged period of time you're going to have to contend with changing airmass, atmospheric conditions, and temperature. Of course SBIG has an excellent track record, but I'd also look at what QSI has to offer. The SSII might prove useful if you're concerned about budget, but I've heard that although the TEC does reduce thermal noise, the camera has a fairly significant read noise that could cause problems similar to the hot pixel issue of the DSI Pro, probably not as significant, but still something to consider if you're going to try and do millimagnitude work. As an aside, I'm using both the DSI Pro I and II and the II runs much, much quieter than the I both in terms of hot pixels and amp glow. If'n it were me I'd take a hard look at the QSI, but with two daughters heading off to college this fall I'm at least 5 years away from even thinking about upgrading my gear, so for now I'll be sticking with my Pro II.
Have fun looking at new gear!
-------------------- -John
================================================
Homebuilt scopes from 4.25-16.5"
Meade LXD75-N6/SN6/SC8, DSX-90, ETX-60BB, ETX-125PE, DS-2130
Orion StarBlast, BinoViewers, Coronado PST
Rebel XT/XTi, DSI Pro (I, II, & III), DSI, LPI, Electronic Eyepiece, Phillips SPC900NC
Tasco 60mm Refractors
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btieman
sage
Reged: 07/24/08
Posts: 466
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Groz,
I had the SSII before I got the QSI520. I had 2 SSIIs because I had readout problems with the first one. Those problems did not go away with the replacement so I sent both back. I think the readout problems may be specific to my situation, but another problem I had with the SSII was that it left a streak/shadow behind bright stars. I don't think the linearity was very good either but I confess I didn't measure it. The streak I saw from stars was clearly enough to ruin photometry at the mmag level.
The shortest transiter I know takes ~75 minutes to transit. Tack on an hour before and after for a baseline and you're looking at 3+ hours of data. Now, the question about background subtraction...If I'm awake, I'll run LC without background subtraction to see how things are going. I can see transits in them. The thermal noise in my QSI is uniform except near the edges. Comparative photometry will handle this case very well. The noise is ~equal under all the stars so mostly what is hurt is my S/N. I do have a few light curves where my background subtraction did not remove a few hot pixels properly. As stars drifted over these regions, I saw changes in the light curve that looked like transits but weren't real. There are some details here that need careful consideration but might allow you to cut some corners. For me, flat-fielding is a bigger concern because my stars do drift across the chip a good distance in 3 hours and dust motes are very problematic.
Filter wheels: Sigh...I's like to solve this one too. If all you're interested in is seeing a transit, the sampling rate can be quite low. Take TrES-3 with an ~75 minute transit. a 10 minute sample rate should give ~7 data points during transit--which should be acceptable to identify a transit. From a science standpoint, your measured mid-transit time and duration may not be accurate enough to see the sort of timing wobble that may indicate another planet in the system. For reference, I've measured TReS-3 with a 120s sampling rate and the model fit to my data gave +-6.5min on the duration and +-2.5min on the mid transit time.
Another aspect of filters: 3 hours means the star transits 45 degrees of sky! I usually use an R as extinction is not as great in R but my count rate can still change >50% over the course of the evening! A number of transiters are 10+ magnitude. TrES-3 is 12.4. With my 11 inch scope and an R band filter, I still need 120 seconds to get to the end of the linear region of my chip. That's at F/4 and binning my chip 3x3! My sampling rate is rarely faster than 2 minutes even with a single filter!
I think I'm going to do multiband measurements by putting a piggy back scope on the CPC1100 to measure the second band. My mount tracks well enough--even in alt/az--to keep the target on the chip over the course of a transit. Tight stars are not desirable for photometry--a lot of people defocus to increase S/N--so not using the piggy scope as a guide scope should be OK. Instead, it will acquire a second band--and will be using my DSI ProI to do it so we'll see how well that works!
I have a star analyzer. I haven't tried spectroscopy on a transiter yet, but it will take a long exposure. You're spreading the light over the length of the chip to get maximum resolution. Also, on my system I need the star analyzer about 100mm from the chip to get full resolution. If I put my filters there, I'll vignette something fierce! I have to put them about 25mm from the chip now and that's far enough to vignette at f/4. So there's one of my trade offs. If I image at slow f ratios, the vignetting from my filter position is less, but I don't have as wide a field of view (harder to find comparison stars) exposure times are longer and I risk star trailing and losing the field due to tracking errors. I'm hoping the wedge will alleviate these problems a bit! Since you're EQ already, this might not be as bad for you.
You can answer a lot of questions by setting up one night and imaging a star for a couple of ours. Doesn't matter if there's a transit or not--just see how stable your equipment is over the course of a few hours. You're looking for a flat "curve" with as little scatter in the data as possible. I spent many evenings doing this before I even attempted to measure an exoplanet transit. I've found that you can recognize a transit even if the depth of the transit is less than half the scatter you're seeing. I've measured an 11mmag dip with a scatter of ~24mmag. The curve isn't pretty and wouldn't look good in a journal--but I can clearly see the transit!
I put enough words in there that hopefully something is useful to ya 
Brian
-------------------- CPC 1100
Orion 120st
Milburn Wedge
QSI 520i
Meade DSI Pro
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cflrich
member
Reged: 08/12/08
Posts: 22
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Quote:
To do photometry for measuring an exoplanet, we need to be able to measure magnitude changes at the 0.01mag level.
I'm also getting started with some photometry. First I'm starting with variable stars, but my eventual goal is detecting a transit.
Quote:
Starshoot II which is somewhat better resolution than the dsi-pro, and it's cooled, so, should be useable for a much longer part of the year.
This is the camera I have, and am going to try to use. I still have a lot of work to do to determine linearity, etc etc, but the camera looks promising. Trying to get those darks the other night, I noticed a few things:
1) The Orion filter wheel leaks a small amount of light. It was noticeable on frames > 90s or so, illuminating one side of the chip. A quick google search suggested that the Meade filter slide leaks light as well-- may want to check if this is the case with your DSI.
2) It appeared to have a fair amount of hot pixels as well. Only a few that were bad, but a fair amount that were non-linear, at least with regard to the rest of the chip. Now this was done in my garage in Florida in the summer, so it was easily 90 degrees in there. An unscientific glance suggests that they still leave plenty of room to measure at exposures ~2-3 min, but I need to look at this in detail. That said, it is my intention to do everything I can to keep the star confined to as few pixels as possible over the night, via autoguiding, to minimize noise sources; so hopefully I can just use a portion of the chip without hot pixels. We'll see how I do.
I plan on doing what I can with this camera until I have the money to upgrade. I figure it will take me at least as long to save the money as it will to learn the proper methods, etc, to push my SSII as far as I can take it.
Quote:
- Since the transit stuff is a lot of frames over a long period, I'm thinking that I could use the filter wheel, shoot successive frames behind different filters, and end up with light curve plots for different parts of the spectrum, all from one evening of shooting. The idea is, once I've established the exposure time required behind each filter, change filters between every shot. Is this a valid concept ?
I have no experience with this, but from what I've read, this isn't feasible. The problem is that filter wheels are only accurate to within a few thousands of an inch, which is inaccurate enough to cause milli-mag discrepancies in your flat-fields, due to dust on the filter or whatever. For transit work, you can't vary the optical train without taking new flats. I read that in The Sky is Your Laboratory, which I highly recommend.
-------------------- Rich
Rich's Astro Blog-- http://cflastro.blogspot.com
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groz
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 03/14/07
Posts: 1038
Loc: Duncan, BC
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Quote:
I put enough words in there that hopefully something is useful to ya 
Extremely useful. Your comments on the inexpensive starshoot were just the kind of reality check I was looking for. That _sold me_ on the concept of the ST2000 variant, but, as always, I continued to do some research on the subject, and I stumbled across this:-
http://www.stargazer-observatory.com/reportsCCD-h16-engl.htm
Scroll down the page till you see the dark frame comparisons of various cameras. That's a _huge_ eye opener, and it got me hunting farther. I found 4 or 5 more places on the net with similar comparisons, one _very_ enlightening, it compared a brand x camera to the brand S camera, giving the brand S a huge advantage, cooling to -25 while brand x was only cooled to -10. The 10 minute darks from that exercise were more than _a little_ enlightening. Chris has done similar wandering around the web on this subject, and now 'she who must be constrained' has turned into 'she who must be obeyed' I have been forbidden from purchasing the brand S camera in any of it's variants. So, the research continues, I'm actually making up a list of candidate cameras in a spreadsheet, where we are starting to track all the details on each of them. WOW, there's soo many out there when you really start digging into it, and the feature sets vary a LOT. I've also learned from my digging so far, pay very close attention to the overall field of view, and, consider vignetting in the process. It's not good enough to just get the target in field, we need to get comparison stars in field too, and, that compounds the problem a bit in some cases.
Another lesson we learned the hard way last summer. I got new equipment just days before we left on a 2 week trip to a couple star party events. I had a LOT of trouble over those two weeks with the new equipment, and, it essentially wrote off most of the week sitting atop Mt Kobau under pretty darn decent skies. That's not going to happen this year, our summer vacation consists of a week at the saskatchewan summer star party, and from there we head directly to Mt Kobau for a week at that event. Gotta love it when one event is timed for the week leading into the new moon, and the second one is timed for the week leading out of the new moon. We dont want to be fighting with non functional equipment during that trip, so, purchase of new camera will likely be postponed till we get back from Mt Kobau.
In the meantime, gathering up more information from other threads in the forum, I found a fabulous link at the AAVSO that allows one to search for variables with conditions. Found what amounts to the ideal setup for doing shots with the dsi-pro we already have, and, gonna use that setup to get a head start on procedures. I dont expect to get accurate millimag photometry results from the dsi-pro, but, we can sure figure out the process and get to the point we have useable results, albeit on larger swings, using this camera. Figuring out the software process from start to finish is also a non trivial exercise, so, part of the 'research' phase now includes using the dsi-pro to get a light curve on a fast variable, and, confirm all the software steps along the way. No point trying to go after millimag stuff with spendy new equipment, if we haven't figured out how to generate light curves on something that varies considerably more, with the dsi-pro.
So, we are all set to go now, with the 'hands on' part of the exercise. Got the dsi-pro lined up and ready, got a candidate variable in a good location lined up and ready, that particular variable gives us a full mag swing over 6 hours, and it's got 25 comparisons in the same field. If we cant get a good light curve from that setup using the dsi, then we better re-visit our process _before_ we charge off and spend the bucks on more fancy equipment.
There's no point getting _to excited_ just quite yet, we still only get 1 hour of actual dark each night, but, in another couple of weeks we'll start having long enough dark nights to actually produce useful / useable data in long enough sequences to attempt plotting curves. Funny enough, that co-incides with the first big star party of the season around here, and, I've even managed to co-erce somebody into loaning me a star analyzer 100 for a few hours on one evening for that event.
the ducks are lining up, it's shaping up to be a fun summer...
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gavinm
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 08/26/05
Posts: 796
Loc: Auckland New Zealand
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As Brian mentioned, exposures may be long, so get the most sensitive camera you can afford, with regulated cooling. There is science that can be done using different wavelengths, like limb-darkening or atmospheric detection, but you would do an entire transit in one wavelength then repeat with another wavelength - not changing during a transit. I have encountered no photometric issues using a filter wheel.
I would start with variables too.
-------------------- Gavin
Mt Albert Grammar School Observatory
Auckland, New Zealand
http://www.mags.school.nz/astronomy/index.html
12" LX200R F6.8 AP
SBIG ST7-XME + CFW10
Moonlite SCT focuser w/ temp
Skywatcher Equinox ED80 Pro (ADM dovetail)
+ other stuff
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groz
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 03/14/07
Posts: 1038
Loc: Duncan, BC
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Quote:
As Brian mentioned, exposures may be long, so get the most sensitive camera you can afford
Grumble, so, after spending most of the weekend researching the subject, decision was made last nite, the best bang for the buck on this would be the Qhy2-Pro. Decent sized sensor, good cooling, great sensativity, and low noise, all in a package that lands at a price point that wont stretch the budget. So, I phone the canadian distrubutor early this afternoon to order, and the response is:-
'Out of stock, discontinued item, likely cant get one anymore'.
I guess now that they have started shipping the 8.3 megapixel monochrome monster, they aren't going to be making the mid range one anymore.
We are back to square one choosing a camera....
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cflrich
member
Reged: 08/12/08
Posts: 22
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That camera looks nice, especially for the price. I looked at the US dealer and they're showing it as on backorder. Modern Astronomy over in the UK isn't showing it as out of stock on their webpage, you can add it to the cart and everything. I'm reasonably certain they ship overseas, might be worth checking with them if you really have your heart set, see if they have one in stock.
Otherwise, a want ad here or astro-mart may net you one!
Good luck!
-------------------- Rich
Rich's Astro Blog-- http://cflastro.blogspot.com
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brianb11213
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 02/25/09
Posts: 1961
Loc: 55.215N 6.554W
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Suggest you check out the Atik 314L which is rather similar ... there is now a version with temperature regulated cooling if you think that is important as well as the older, unregulated, Peltier cooled version. Prices are competitive with the QHY2-Pro.
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jeffg
member
Reged: 02/13/07
Posts: 66
Loc: Irvine CA
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While I agree that a cooled CCD is a vast improvement over an uncooled one, my experience is that the DSI-Pro is not quite as bad as you indicate. Adding a fan to the DSI-P helps things considerably. And as you say, using it during the colder months of the year is a good idea. I used a DSI-P for a couple of years prior to upgrading to an SBIG 402 camera. With the DSI-P, the normal dispersions in the data of 8 to 10 Mag variables was about 0.05 mag. The best I every got was around 0.03. That being said I still plan to use the DSI-P for the upcoming Eps Aur campaign since that variable is so bright it tends to saturate the SBIG camera.
Attached is a graph of a Landolt Standard star taken with both the SBIG 402 and the DSI-P. You can see the dispersions are much greater with the DSI-P. However, this still means it should deliver pretty good results on brighter variables, especially during the cooler months of the year. And of course, good dark skies always helps (wish I had some).
-------------------- Jeff
14", 10", & 4.25" Dobs
8" Schmidt Newtonian, C-8 SC, 8" LSC
6" Cave Student Model A, 6" Dall-Kirkham, 6" RV-6
5" Refractor & 80 mm Folded Refractor
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groz
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 03/14/07
Posts: 1038
Loc: Duncan, BC
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Yes, but, does your dsi-p have over a thousand hot pixels ? Mine does, and no amount of fussing with offset and/or gain changes that. A 1 minute exposure generates over a thousand pixels at full saturation.
I did find that in nebulosity there is a setting to turn off the amplifier, which I didn't see last winter, hiding in one of the camera config dialogs. I did tests here a couple days ago, and confirmed that with that set to amp off, the amplifier glow does indeed disappear from the corner of the frame, but, it doesn't solve the problem of hot pixels. There is a random scatter of hot pixels in every frame, they run roughly 95% reproduceable across frames, and there's more than a thousand of them. 3 minute frames the number approaches 2 thousand.
I think I've just got a lemon when it comes to the dsi-p.
But, that point does become academic, scooped up a used starlight express SVXH9 late last week. It was _supposed_ to be here on friday, but, turns out the priority courier folks decided to keep it in storage instead of delivering on friday. Chasing down the tracking, it appears to have been misplaced at one of the handling points, and didn't get on the outbound truck it should have been on, and is still sitting in that warehouse for the weekend.
it may not be the 'ideal' camera for this kind of stuff, but I expect it to be an order of magnitude superior to the dsi-p, and 'good enough' to allow us to attempt some of this fun stuff with the degree of precision we want.
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groz
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 03/14/07
Posts: 1038
Loc: Duncan, BC
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Ok, well, everything seems to be a done deal now.
- Starlight Express SXVH9 camera is sitting on my desk, ready to go. - Thanks to a timely heads up email from Brian, a BVRI filter set is sitting on the 'will call' table at Anacortes Telescope, and, we will pick it up on the way past when we head off to Table Mountain Star Party next week.
Solstice season is over, and the nights have returned. I was out on the back deck at 11pm last night, was nice to actually see stars again at that time of the evening. We get 2+ hours of 'real dark' each night now, and, that's growing by 6 to 7 minutes a day. We are officially headed back into 'astronomy season' at 49N.
The island star party starts this evening, and the weather forecast for the entire weekend is 'clear'. The folks making the CSC seem to have run out of 'white paint'. Woohooo. We head off around 3 this afternoon, and should have scopes all set up and ready to polar align before the talks start around 7. Talks run from 7 till dusk, and then we will get our scopes running again, first time since late May.
So, I was sitting here contemplating just what I want to do for giving the new camera a test drive, and possibly how to get a good comparison to the dsi. At first, my thought was, at some point tonite I'll have to do a couple test shots with the SXV, then replace it with the DSI, and do essentially the same test shot. But then I got a brainstorm. The 127mm mak is F/12, and I have a 0.5 focal reducer to put in the dsi nosepiece. The SCT is f/10 and I use it with the 0.63 reducer. So, I can put the dsi into a 5 inch scope, the sxv into the 8 inch scope, both roughly f/6, and, I just happen to have the side by side bar for this setup too.
So, for the first light comparison test tonite, the dsi goes into the 5 inch at f/6, the sxv goes into the 8 inch also f/6. The pair rides side by side on the EQ6-Pro, and, by the end of the evening, I'll have a very good solid comparison set for the two. Both will be running unfiltered tonite, I wont have the filters till wednesday.
Sooo, the fun starts tonite. Over the next 6 weeks, chris and I will be attending 4 star parties, 2 of which will be weeklong stays for us. The plan right now, get set up on the malahat at the event location before dinner, then set the artificial star out and tweak collimation on everything. After dinner, there's some talks happening, and after that, civil twilight ends at 10, nautical twilight ends at 10:45, astronomical twilight ends at midnight. Dark till 2:30 then sky glow starts to get bad (nautical twilight) by 3:45.
Plan for tonite, play with the new stuff, point it at lots of 'known things' and just experiment to find out what it can and cannot do. Assuming that goes well, the plan tomorrow nite, gonna spend a couple hours shooting a fast eclipsing binary, and see if we cant get our first real light curve out of this thing....
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groz
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 03/14/07
Posts: 1038
Loc: Duncan, BC
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Well, success at last, or, should I say partial success. During our trip we were on the road for 16 days, 5 of which we spent at the saskatchewan summer star party, and 5 at the Mt Kobau star party. Out of the 10 star party days, I got exactly one session with decent imaging
Even that one wasn't perfect, I was shooting the transit on Wasp-10b. Got a nice flatline leading into transit, then clouded out just before ingress. Got some flatline after ingress when the clouds moved on. I did have some challenges getting aip4win to accept the two sets, the autoguider moved the scope all over the place during the clouded out part of the session, and I had to re-aquire the target after the clouds left.
But, I did get a nice curve from the second half, and now that we are home, I got the data on my desktop where I could play with it for a bit this evening.
First preliminary result of measuring a transit, this is the egress portion of the data, I'll get all the rest glued in properly tomorrow, but this is the section of that shoot that aip4win is happy with to just take strait away and plot a curve. The prediction is for 0.039 delta on this one, and that bump in this curve near center is about right.
Edited by groz (08/24/09 11:45 PM)
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walt r
Post Laureate
Reged: 02/13/07
Posts: 3451
Loc: Doylestown, PA
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Looks good groz. I'd say you did capture the egress. I'm looking forward to see your finial data. Thanks for showing the preliminary light curve.
Maybe you start a new thread for this exoplanet.
-------------------- Walt
Obsession 18" f/4.45 #1370 AN/SC
MK67 Deluxe 6" f/12 Mak-Cass, Super Polaris GEM, JMI MicroMax DSC
DIY 60mm f/6 Achromat
Cookbook 245 CCD
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groz
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 03/14/07
Posts: 1038
Loc: Duncan, BC
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Quote:
Maybe you start a new thread for this exoplanet.
I dug up the old thread because it sort of chronicles the journey from the first idea of 'lets measure exoplanets' and down the trail from point a to point b of actually measuring one.
Kind of a shame we've battled weather for much of the time, I could likely have a dozen measured ones in place now if
a) Work schedule wasn't so hectic during the clear weather before the vacation b) Weather had co-operated _just a bit_ during the vacation.
Ahh well, we are home again, and telescopes will be set up more or less permanently now for a while, should get lots more chances to measure more exoplanet transits. I've got some work to do catching up to brian.....
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btieman
sage
Reged: 07/24/08
Posts: 466
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Heh...not as much catching up as you might think! It looks like you already beat me in data quality--of course I've yet to measure a transit while guiding. That may me significantly as I can close up my apertures some. Still, my best night is no where near your average night so you'll probably always have the edge in S/N. Then again, I can't imagine staring at a mag 12 star for *3 MINUTES*...well, maybe in B I have learned to tell time so I don't lose as many transits that way (actually Tresc changed their prediction reporting to not show the transits that have already completed--that has helped cut down the confusion a LOT) My batting average is getting better but could still use some work. Since February when I started this journey with HD80606b, I've measured and reported 15 complete transits. I have maybe another 10 partials that I didn't bother reporting. But I also have a large number of failed attempts that I have decided best not to keep track of 
Awe heck, it's all in good fun! When you finish working out the kinks Groz, we'll have to make another attempt at coordinating a transit measurement. It's difficult as you're so far wedst and I have the town light dome in my western ske, but I've measured transits there before--it'll be fun!
If anyone else wants to join the party--give a holler!
Brian
-------------------- CPC 1100
Orion 120st
Milburn Wedge
QSI 520i
Meade DSI Pro
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