Javier
sage
Reged: 05/03/09
Posts: 434
Loc: New Jersey
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After reading through many of the links provided by my fellow CN'ers and pricing out the materials at Home Depot I'm ready to build my light shields. The project will consist of three or maybe four panels since I need to block out light in front of me as well as to my left and right. So... how high should I make the panels? I'm 5'5" and my light bridge is 4'3" when pointing directly up. The lights I'm trying to block is a street light that is approximatly 50' from my backyard, my neighbors garage light which is maybe 20 feet from me and a few stray lights that are about 70 feet away. I kow this is a tough question but I figured I'd ask before cutting.
The PVC comes in ten foot sections. Would I be correct in making a set of shields that are 10 feet wide by five feet high?
Thanks,
Javier
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Pedestal
Post Laureate
Reged: 03/11/06
Posts: 3860
Loc: Smoggy Bottom, Baytown,Texas
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10 foot panels are going to be a pita to move and store. I'd consider 5 foot lengths.
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Hubert
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www.smoggybottom.org
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Javier
sage
Reged: 05/03/09
Posts: 434
Loc: New Jersey
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I was sort thinking about 5 foot sections. I have to cut the PVC, should I just use a hacksaw or is there a special blade for PVC? I never cut the stuff before.
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Bob Griffiths
Postmaster
Reged: 10/10/05
Posts: 6592
Loc: Frederick Maryland
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Have your wife go out with you TONIGHT...with a Frying pan...
Your sit/down at the scope...and direct her to lift the Pan up by the handle etc to block that particular light...
Should give you a quick answer...
Bob G.
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CPC1100
Nexstar 8i + GPS & Rays Brackets
Denk S1 power switch
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The sky over my head....
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Javier
sage
Reged: 05/03/09
Posts: 434
Loc: New Jersey
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Hmm.... wife with a frying pan in hand... This sounds like a setup to me.. 
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csa/montana
Den Mother
Reged: 05/14/05
Posts: 40307
Loc: montana
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Quote:
Hmm.... wife with a frying pan in hand... This sounds like a setup to me..
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Carol
AstroTech 16" Dob (Thanks ASTRONOMICS!)
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Pedestal
Post Laureate
Reged: 03/11/06
Posts: 3860
Loc: Smoggy Bottom, Baytown,Texas
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Yeah, a hacksaw is fine. There are special cutters, but for the small task, they are hardly worth the cost. One thing, be sure to buy "schedule 80" not "sch 40". The 80 has thicker wall.
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Hubert
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www.smoggybottom.org
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mikey cee
Post Laureate
Reged: 01/18/07
Posts: 3531
Loc: bellevue ne.
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Have your wife take the frying pan to your neighbor's garage light.  
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7x35 and 10x50 sears tower binocs, 3" f/10 edmunds reflector, 2.4" f/11.7 manon refractor, 6" f/8 jaegers refractor, "The 8 Ball" 8" f/13.3 brandt refractor, 3" f/15.8 sans&streiffe refractor, 3.1" f/15 selsi refractor(towa 339), 2.4" f/15 sears refractor, selsi 30x30mm spyglass, criterion 5-draw 25x45x75x spyglass(1957), 4.25" f/14.8 tasco 20te.
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Jaxdialation
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 04/01/07
Posts: 2457
Loc: Northeast, FL
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My light panels are 72" and I often wish I had at least 2 that were higher.
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John
Stuff: TSA102 & EM400, RCOS 10RCA, STL- 6303, AP 1200GTO, too much software to list
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Gunner
professor emeritus
Reged: 06/20/06
Posts: 516
Loc: Bellville,Texas
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Quote:
I was sort thinking about 5 foot sections. I have to cut the PVC, should I just use a hacksaw or is there a special blade for PVC? I never cut the stuff before.
When I built my light panels I used my miter saw, it made quick work of cutting the pipe.
Allen
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CarolG
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 10/16/06
Posts: 829
Loc: Oklahoma
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I agree, John. The height of the panels is more important than the width. When I made mine, I made them 48" wide and 72" high. That way I used all the 10' of PVC and had little waste. I used a hacksaw. PVC is very easy to cut and sand (I sanded the cut edges to remove any sharp points). Before I made mine, I went outside and measured the height it would take to block the light. That's how I came up with 6' high. Here's a pic of what I ended up with.
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Carol
Cor Caroli Observatory
NS11 XLT w/ HyperStar
TV85 w/FeatherTouch/DM4/SC on a Scopebuggy
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BSJ
member
Reged: 12/22/08
Posts: 99
Loc: Grand Isle, VT
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I made mine 5'x6'. With three pieces of 10' 1 1/2" PVC. Four 90° elbows. Two 4-way T's.
One piece of PVC cut in half. The other two cut 6' long. The 4' sections are cut in half to act as feet for the frame.
I used a 10'x12' heavy duty tarp (brown & silver) and bungee cords for the for the covering.
I have 4 of them built. Light enoguh to drag two around at the same time. Strong enough that they can get blown around the yard without damage!
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Brian S. Johnson
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Javier
sage
Reged: 05/03/09
Posts: 434
Loc: New Jersey
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Thanks guys, as far as light blocking material should I go with 4mil black plastic or a tarp?
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CarolG
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 10/16/06
Posts: 829
Loc: Oklahoma
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I don't know how much wind you have there, but in Oklahoma we do have plenty of it. I chose a heavy black canvas I found at a local fabric shop. Plastic in the wind can make a lot of noise. If wind and noise are not a problem for you, I think either would do, whichever is easier for you to get.
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Carol
Cor Caroli Observatory
NS11 XLT w/ HyperStar
TV85 w/FeatherTouch/DM4/SC on a Scopebuggy
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BSJ
member
Reged: 12/22/08
Posts: 99
Loc: Grand Isle, VT
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I went with the tarps because they're pre cut and already have grommets.
The way I have it folded and wrapped around the frame it's two layers thick. 100% light proof. Should stand up better to deep winter cold too. The bungees keep them taught so no flapping.
I should take some pictures...
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Brian S. Johnson
________________
Zhumell Z10D, Orion ST80, 114mm Meade Telestar (Re-hab'd)
8-24mm Hyperion Zoom
8mm, 17mm, 21mm Baader Hyperion 14mm & 28mm Fine Tune Rings
OPT OIII, Baader Fringe killer, Baader Moon & Sky Glow
Nikon 10x50 Action Extreme
StarDust Observing Chair
Astro-Tech Voyager Mount
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Javier
sage
Reged: 05/03/09
Posts: 434
Loc: New Jersey
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I think I'm going the tarp route....
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JayinUT
I'm not Sleepy
Reged: 09/19/08
Posts: 951
Loc: Utah
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I made my first set out of mil plastic and they are noisy in a slight breeze but to be honest it doesn't bother me. I am blocking light to the south and a street light and house light to the west and the 4 mil works fine (even in the winter with 2 or 3 feet of snow on the ground around me with the observing area cleaned off). My cloth ones are quieter and are heavier when I have them setup but look nicer and work wonderfully.
In terms of height, mine are six feet in height and four feet wide. Both types I've made have feet that come off so with the feet off they come down to around five feet and fit easily through any door. My entire frames come apart enough to where if I want to transport them to a site I can (for a star party). Take the frame apart, fold or roll the plastic or the cloth and off I go.
Good luck in making them Javier!
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Jay in Utah
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Location: Lat: 40.514N Long: -112.032W
Mortal as I am, I know that I am born for a day. But when I follow at my pleasure the serried multitude of the stars in their circular course, my feet no longer touch the earth.
— Ptolemy, c.150 AD
My Blog
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wb9sat
sage
Reged: 06/16/09
Posts: 328
Loc: Eagar, Arizona USA
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Here's a photo of my light fence. It works very well and immune to high winds. If you have a lumber mill in your neighborhood, you can buy the rough cut stuff at a much cheaper price.
Bill
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Bill Logan
Logan Observatory
Eagar, Arizona, USSA
Elevation: 7,400 feet (2,600 meters) ASL
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73 de WB9SAT
[url=http://loganobservatory.shutterfly.com[/url]
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Project Galileo
sage
Reged: 11/14/07
Posts: 405
Loc: Douglas County, Colorado
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I made my portable observatory panels 88" tall. I am 6'5" and love the added height. Having the panels taller than the scope also negated the need to flock. Contrast went way up. I love using mine. Here is a link detailing their creation.
http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=telescopes&Number=3035307&fpart=&PHPSESSID=
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Orion XT10i
Meade LXD55 LXD75 AR-6
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Minolta 10x50 Binoculars
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