Return to the Cloudy Nights Telescope Reviews home page
   · Get a Cloudy Nights T-Shirt · Submit a Review / Article   

Click here if you are having trouble logging into the forums

Privacy Policy | Please read our Terms of Service | Signup and Troubleshooting FAQ | Problems? PM a Red or a Green Gu.... uh, User

Equipment Discussions >> ATM, Optics and DIY Forum

Pages: 1 | 2 | 3 | (show all)
Brian Engel
member


Reged: 08/25/09
Posts: 93
Loc: Cincinnati,Oh
Mirror support on a machine - suggestions?
      #3321843 - 09/08/09 10:51 AM

I am getting ready grind a 20" thin (1.25") mirror on a home built machine.

Basically, the turntable I am using is a machined flat, .6 inch thick piece of steel.

I am wondering what other people use or recommend for putting under the mirror during the grinding/polishing process?

In the past i have used carpet but that mirror was about 3 inches thick. I am a bit concerned about evenly supporting a thin mirror such as this.

My own thoughts are carpet but what about a silcone mat (used in baking, etc...)?

Do I need anything at all with a machined flat .6 inch thick steel plate turntable?

Appreciate any insight....


Thanks...


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
mark cowan
Vendor (Obsidian Optics)


Reged: 06/03/05
Posts: 2159
Loc: salem, OR
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: Brian Engel]
      #3322328 - 09/08/09 03:36 PM Attachment (30 downloads)

Yes, you need something for flotation, as two flat surfaces only make actual contact at 3 points if neither bends.

The backers sold for throw rugs are a few mm thick, mesh with latex, and work really well. You can also get them in 2' wide rolls sold as shelf liners - they look like this pic (setup for a 14.7").

Best,
Mark


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
PrestonE
Pooh-Bah
*****

Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 1170
Loc: Houston,Texas
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: Brian Engel]
      #3323086 - 09/08/09 10:24 PM

Hi Brian, What Mark said and get you primary turntable up to at least 10% plus of the mirrors thickness before you start...and flatten it with the machine...like at least 2+ inches thick...

We worked through many problems of the turntable being Too thin and the issues associated with that...

Best Regards,

Preston

--------------------
A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Brian Engel
member


Reged: 08/25/09
Posts: 93
Loc: Cincinnati,Oh
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: PrestonE]
      #3323186 - 09/08/09 11:15 PM

Too thin? It is .6 inches of steel. I ground and figured a 27 inch on it (3 inches thick) without problems.

2+ inch thick steel would weigh an ungodly amount.


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
mark cowan
Vendor (Obsidian Optics)


Reged: 06/03/05
Posts: 2159
Loc: salem, OR
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: Brian Engel]
      #3323357 - 09/09/09 12:48 AM

Well, it depends, I think.

The table shown is .5" surfaced aluminum plate 23" wide and works fine for 20" mirrors. However it's attached to 1" of Corian counter top (2 1/2" pieces epoxied and bolted together) spacers that in turn rest on a 1" thick (at the edge) 14" steel pulley from some sort of crane, and that is attached to the heavy main shaft just above the lateral bearing and about 2' above the thrust bearing. Everything from the pulley on down is ungodly strong, and in use almost all of the vertical force load is borne directly. It needs the spacers because the drive to the table is on the pulley and I need clearance there.

Support can be an issue, if the top surface rested on something only a couple inches wide it wouldn't work. But this I can pick up and take outside to clean off when needed. Forget that if it was solid 2" aluminum or even 1" steel!

Support is more an issue for thinner mirrors, as you're at the mercy of flex in the underlying support.

Best,
Mark


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Brian Engel
member


Reged: 08/25/09
Posts: 93
Loc: Cincinnati,Oh
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: mark cowan]
      #3323709 - 09/09/09 09:08 AM

In my case the steel plate is only supported at the center with a rather large "boss" that the shaft fits into.

The shaft goes into some rather large radial/thrust bearings that are ungodly strong. i.e. I would feel comfortable putting 2,000 pounds on it no problem.

I'm no engineer but I don't see flexure as a problem. Maybe I am wrong?


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Crayfordjon
Inventor


Reged: 06/17/09
Posts: 372
Loc: UK
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: Brian Engel]
      #3323864 - 09/09/09 10:48 AM

I use 21/2, or 3 inch thick plastic upholstery and cushion foam the same dia as the mirror. This can be obtained from shops dealing in furnishings. The mirror sits evenly on the surface and is supported all over.I have made many mirrors this way with success. I cover the foam in a layer of polythene sheeting to keep water and grit from getting in as it acts like a sponge.

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
mark cowan
Vendor (Obsidian Optics)


Reged: 06/03/05
Posts: 2159
Loc: salem, OR
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: Brian Engel]
      #3324301 - 09/09/09 03:00 PM

If you can jump up and down on top of it and nothing happens I'm sure it's ok. .6" steel is like 1.2" aluminum and I would have no problem with that sitting on a large boss.

Best,
Mark


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Redstone2
journeyman


Reged: 02/28/09
Posts: 5
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: PrestonE]
      #3325566 - 09/10/09 08:32 AM

Quote:

Hi Brian, What Mark said and get you primary turntable up to at least 10% plus of the mirrors thickness before you start...and flatten it with the machine...like at least 2+ inches thick...





Hello Preston,

What do you mean by "flatten with the machine"? The turn-table on my MOM is 2 layers of 0.75" plywood topped with 0.375" aluminum plate. I do not have the capability to mill the top surface (nor the $$). My B&S straight edge shows a reasonbily flat surface.

Thanks,
Tom


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
kfrederick
professor emeritus


Reged: 02/01/08
Posts: 669
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: Redstone2]
      #3325614 - 09/10/09 09:07 AM

i like to grind the back of the mirror on the turntable top a fiew wets you will see how good they match /// turn the mirror often that helps/ if things are not perfect/ donot let a cleat bind /

Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
PrestonE
Pooh-Bah
*****

Reged: 04/29/05
Posts: 1170
Loc: Houston,Texas
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: Redstone2]
      #3325949 - 09/10/09 12:08 PM

Hi Tom,

We originally had done something very similar to what you are using and had a whole host of problems.

We finally glued together 3 layers of 3/4 inch particle board and bonded that to a 20 inch diameter 1 1/8" cast aluminum tooling plate.

Then we cast a layer of fiberglass resin about 3/8" thick on the top surface and coated all the edges so that the particle board can never get wet and swell.

We had made a second glued sack of 3 like the above and cast resin on that also. Then bonded tiles like one would to make a grinding tool and used that over hung at the neutral zone like you would if you did not want to change the radius and ground the top flat.

When we were finished, we indicated the ground surface and found it to be flat within +/- 0.00025" over the 24 inch round table.

Then putting the shelving material like Marks, we put the mirror blank on and first ground the back flat through 320.

Turned her over and started grinding to the desired depth....

No problems with the support flexing or the top surface of the table not supporting the glass properly any more

pss...It is very similar to the way Carl Zambuto's turn tables are made, not my idea

Best Regards,

Preston

--------------------
A few I enjoy,
and a few more in the works ;<)


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
mark cowan
Vendor (Obsidian Optics)


Reged: 06/03/05
Posts: 2159
Loc: salem, OR
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: PrestonE]
      #3327182 - 09/11/09 12:32 AM

I may be taking a bit simpler approach then Preston describes, but the goal is still the same - to get to a flat turntable with no runout (running true).

One way is to grind the table flat, whatever it's made of, another is to start with thick aluminum plate that's machine finished flat.

If you don't want to adjust that surface (I don't!) you still need to be sure that the table runs true to the shaft support or you will generate astigmatism from the induced wedge. It only takes a few thou side to side to do this.

On my last refit of the main machine, since I knew the main support pulley wasn't entirely true to the shaft rotation , I used the two pieces of Corian countertop to accomplish the truing, and planned it out this way:

I put 3 machine bolts (3/8 or 5/16) tapped into the bottom piece and bearing on the top piece, with additional bolts tapped into the top and serving to hold position and add structural integrity. Than when I was ready I trued it up roughly using the 3 bolts and a laser to line it up. Took the other bolts out and filled the gap with epoxy, but it back together, and while the epoxy was still setting did a dead-on alignment of the new top with a flat part rotating on it and a laser bouncing off and onto the wall beyond. Let it cure and that was all she wrote, worked (and works) like a charm.

Best,
Mark


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
rwiederrich
Goldfinger
*****

Reged: 11/17/05
Posts: 8334
Loc: Bremerton Washington
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: mark cowan]
      #3327998 - 09/11/09 01:16 PM

Quote:

I may be taking a bit simpler approach then Preston describes, but the goal is still the same - to get to a flat turntable with no runout (running true).

One way is to grind the table flat, whatever it's made of, another is to start with thick aluminum plate that's machine finished flat.

If you don't want to adjust that surface (I don't!) you still need to be sure that the table runs true to the shaft support or you will generate astigmatism from the induced wedge. It only takes a few thou side to side to do this.

On my last refit of the main machine, since I knew the main support pulley wasn't entirely true to the shaft rotation , I used the two pieces of Corian countertop to accomplish the truing, and planned it out this way:

I put 3 machine bolts (3/8 or 5/16) tapped into the bottom piece and bearing on the top piece, with additional bolts tapped into the top and serving to hold position and add structural integrity. Than when I was ready I trued it up roughly using the 3 bolts and a laser to line it up. Took the other bolts out and filled the gap with epoxy, but it back together, and while the epoxy was still setting did a dead-on alignment of the new top with a flat part rotating on it and a laser bouncing off and onto the wall beyond. Let it cure and that was all she wrote, worked (and works) like a charm.

Best,
Mark




It's a wonder John Dobson ever made a decent mirror..by simply sitting on a bench and hand working it. About as inaccurate as one can get(you would think)...but he did it.

All my tables are flat and run true...but the equasion breaker is the pad benieth the mirror and on top of the table. That permits the mirror to *float* and shift(Compress) under the weight of the tool. This would induce that *few thousands* you commented about.

I tend not to be so worried about such things...as long as your strokes are as random as possible and *astig* is kept at bay and you have produced a nice sphere. If the mirrored surface isn't exactly parallel to the back of the mirror....no problem. That is why you use a many point contact cell that is collimatable. All those aspects are designed to align the front of the mirror(the important part) in the right direction.

Rob(My pathetic view any way)

--------------------
www.goldmtobservingcenter.com
A great place for amateur astronomers, and ATM's to come and enjoy their hobby.

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/HomemadeRefractorTelescopes/ My homemade refractor group.

www.vimeo.com/6014031


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Brian Engel
member


Reged: 08/25/09
Posts: 93
Loc: Cincinnati,Oh
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: rwiederrich]
      #3328165 - 09/11/09 03:00 PM

I wrangle with the pad idea also. It would logically seem to make the problem worse with the mirror/tool compressing it randomly. The more logical thing would be to put the mirror right on top of the steel plate.

I have used carpet in the past with success and I must trust the wisdom of far more experienced mirror makers than me.

Right now I am wrangling with the idea of should I let the pin arm push "down" on the tool such that the arm "floats" like a record turntable or do I fix the arm so no weight is transferred down onto the tool and just put weight on top of the tool if needed.

In the past I had the pin pushing down on the tool, with success but it was a much thicker mirror.

Right now, considering the advice of others, I am thinking I should fix the pin so that it doesn't push down on the tool.

Thanks...


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
mark cowan
Vendor (Obsidian Optics)


Reged: 06/03/05
Posts: 2159
Loc: salem, OR
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: rwiederrich]
      #3328418 - 09/11/09 05:31 PM

I've made mirrors up to 12.5" the way Dobson teaches - because I took his class a long time back! And for hand work it works fine, of course. The key there is consistent rotation of both mirror and tool, and a certain amount of inevitable (but designed) randomness in both the strokes and the rotation. So yeah, I hear ya about that.

Machine polishing, especially for thin mirrors, is a different creature.

The flotation pad won't fix a table that's off from true, nor wedge in a blank, nor an off-center generation. Any and all of these things will cause astigmatism in the mirror. Compression in the flotation pad averages out and won't cause it.

Which just means that if you're working with machines you don't want a mirror where the surface isn't parallel to the back of the mirror, as it won't get a good sphere, and it will show astigmatism. I've had to go back to the generation stage on occasion to fix defects that caused that.

Best,
Mark


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
mark cowan
Vendor (Obsidian Optics)


Reged: 06/03/05
Posts: 2159
Loc: salem, OR
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: Brian Engel]
      #3328429 - 09/11/09 05:35 PM

Quote:

The more logical thing would be to put the mirror right on top of the steel plate.




So, do you feel lucky? Also see previous comment.

Quote:

Right now I am wrangling with the idea of should I let the pin arm push "down" on the tool such that the arm "floats" like a record turntable or do I fix the arm so no weight is transferred down onto the tool and just put weight on top of the tool if needed.




The pin (quill) just locates the tool in my work. All the weight that's applied comes from the tool and weight added directly to the back of the tool. This way the forces on the tool are spread out so it doesn't change shape. But I use a lot of force in grinding and polishing out, not much in figuring.

Best,
Mark


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
rwiederrich
Goldfinger
*****

Reged: 11/17/05
Posts: 8334
Loc: Bremerton Washington
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: Brian Engel]
      #3328771 - 09/11/09 09:21 PM

Quote:

I wrangle with the pad idea also. It would logically seem to make the problem worse with the mirror/tool compressing it randomly. The more logical thing would be to put the mirror right on top of the steel plate.

I have used carpet in the past with success and I must trust the wisdom of far more experienced mirror makers than me.

Right now I am wrangling with the idea of should I let the pin arm push "down" on the tool such that the arm "floats" like a record turntable or do I fix the arm so no weight is transferred down onto the tool and just put weight on top of the tool if needed.

In the past I had the pin pushing down on the tool, with success but it was a much thicker mirror.

Right now, considering the advice of others, I am thinking I should fix the pin so that it doesn't push down on the tool.

Thanks...




First...Like Mark said..if your mirror is not flat on its back it will rest on the 3 highest points...like a tripod...so then the carpet backer.

However...like you've pointed out...if the care is taken to gind the back *FLAT*(Like everyone here keeps pointing to)//then there will be no tripoding of the mirror on the flat steel table. IN this case...logic dictates you would be correct. Flat table..against flat mirror back...is as perfect a contact as one could wish for.

Far to often we perform out of routine...then out of logic.

My tables are flat...but I still use the carpet backing to aid in contact and to aid in retention.

Because my machines *stroke* the mirror...my tables also have adjustible stops.

My modified Draper machine uses poker pins(quils) and I set them in the tool bib and then unlock the pin so it can move within its sleave. I then can add weight to the pin so I can *Press* the tool as it works. The over arm(control arm) strokes freely without weight upon it.

Rob

--------------------
www.goldmtobservingcenter.com
A great place for amateur astronomers, and ATM's to come and enjoy their hobby.

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/HomemadeRefractorTelescopes/ My homemade refractor group.

www.vimeo.com/6014031


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
rwiederrich
Goldfinger
*****

Reged: 11/17/05
Posts: 8334
Loc: Bremerton Washington
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: mark cowan]
      #3328830 - 09/11/09 09:48 PM

Quote:

I've made mirrors up to 12.5" the way Dobson teaches - because I took his class a long time back! And for hand work it works fine, of course. The key there is consistent rotation of both mirror and tool, and a certain amount of inevitable (but designed) randomness in both the strokes and the rotation. So yeah, I hear ya about that.

Machine polishing, especially for thin mirrors, is a different creature.

The flotation pad won't fix a table that's off from true, nor wedge in a blank, nor an off-center generation. Any and all of these things will cause astigmatism in the mirror. Compression in the flotation pad averages out and won't cause it.

Which just means that if you're working with machines you don't want a mirror where the surface isn't parallel to the back of the mirror, as it won't get a good sphere, and it will show astigmatism. I've had to go back to the generation stage on occasion to fix defects that caused that.

Best,
Mark




OK..you're gonna really need to help me understand something here.

Your comments concerning *hand grinding* makes it sound as if the mirror knows what kind of grinding is taking place upon it. *Consistant* rotation and stroke is key on a machine as well...and if you use a carpet pad you have induced the *designed* inevitable randomness.

I agree...an off true table or poor off center curve generation will create astigmatizm. This is true with a machine or by hand grinding.

If one is mindful...and they know the off set generation error...they can polish on a machine noting that error and still create a nice sphere. (That's wishful thinking)

Traditional grinding on the back of a steel drum while stroking and rotating and revolving around it is in of itself the greatest potential for causing astigmatizm in a glass blank. But still the randomness of all aspects creates a perfect sphere.... Magine that.

This is why it is quite important that you make sure your blank is dead on center on your hogging table.....

Fun fun fun..Oh...How can you create a *wedge* situation when you're rotating the mirror during generation? Or grinding for that matter?

Also...I was under the impression..*wedge* is typically a lens description.


Rob

--------------------
www.goldmtobservingcenter.com
A great place for amateur astronomers, and ATM's to come and enjoy their hobby.

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/HomemadeRefractorTelescopes/ My homemade refractor group.

www.vimeo.com/6014031


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
rwiederrich
Goldfinger
*****

Reged: 11/17/05
Posts: 8334
Loc: Bremerton Washington
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: mark cowan]
      #3328839 - 09/11/09 09:53 PM

Quote:

Quote:

The more logical thing would be to put the mirror right on top of the steel plate.




So, do you feel lucky? Also see previous comment.

Quote:

Right now I am wrangling with the idea of should I let the pin arm push "down" on the tool such that the arm "floats" like a record turntable or do I fix the arm so no weight is transferred down onto the tool and just put weight on top of the tool if needed.




The pin (quill) just locates the tool in my work. All the weight that's applied comes from the tool and weight added directly to the back of the tool. This way the forces on the tool are spread out so it doesn't change shape. But I use a lot of force in grinding and polishing out, not much in figuring.

Best,
Mark




You use lots of force while grinding?
Can you explain? How much actually?

Rob

--------------------
www.goldmtobservingcenter.com
A great place for amateur astronomers, and ATM's to come and enjoy their hobby.

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/HomemadeRefractorTelescopes/ My homemade refractor group.

www.vimeo.com/6014031


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
mark cowan
Vendor (Obsidian Optics)


Reged: 06/03/05
Posts: 2159
Loc: salem, OR
Re: Mirror support on a machine - suggestions? new [Re: rwiederrich]
      #3329213 - 09/12/09 04:47 AM

Quote:

...if the care is taken to gind the back *FLAT*(Like everyone here keeps pointing to)//then there will be no tripoding of the mirror on the flat steel table. .... Flat table..against flat mirror back...is as perfect a contact as one could wish for.




Rob, sadly this isn't true, though it's a very small amount, the contact is far from as perfect as one could wish for. You probably know well enough what Josephson (?) blocks are, and that they actually stick together through molecular force. Neither the mirror back nor the table are ever going to be that flat on a micro/macro level.

The whole point of the flotation is that, no matter how flat you have the table or the mirror back, they are only guaranteed to make physical contact in 3 points, unless one or the other deforms. And it isn't going to be the table.

So the mirror sags onto the table when you're talking about wavelengths of light (kind of like a pitch lap would if you laid it face down). And every time you pick it up and put it down again, it's going to take on a different shape, and when you polish that and then pick it up off the table, you don't have a good sphere (or whatever), you have the shape of the table (in reverse) + the shape polished onto the mirror. You need the flotation to fill the gaps evenly.

Note that I'm talking about polishing, not about grinding. I doubt that it makes much difference in grinding, but I use the flotation for both, so when I'm done with grinding I just hose the table off and it's ready to go for polishing, no adjustments.

There's always two sides of course - on my generator I put the blank straight on the flat table and the diamond cutter just chews away at it with what I suspect is hundreds of lbs of pressure (sometimes). But since that blank is cleated down like heck and can't go anywhere, and I want the same rough curve ground in, it comes out even all around (like a planer would), to within the tolerance needed (a few thou on the edge thickness).

Every step along the way from generating to figuring the tolerances you need to hold the parts to get smaller, that's about the size of it.

Quote:

Your comments concerning *hand grinding* makes it sound as if the mirror knows what kind of grinding is taking place upon it. *Consistant* rotation and stroke is key on a machine as well...and if you use a carpet pad you have induced the *designed* inevitable randomness.




John would know more about the first part of it...

You don't need consistent (or any) rotation of the mirror on the table on a machine, if all of the following is true:
  • Table is really flat
  • Table is really trued
  • Workpiece is centered, or, if not restrained, centered on average
  • Workpiece is on good flotation

Some people do practice regular rotation of the substrate on the table, even swearing by it, but it's only useful if one of the things in the list isn't true. If you do it, I think it has to be consistent and indexed physically, and you have to give equal time to all the different positions over the course of any work session, and it can't be done just randomly unless you're consistently lucky.

But you don't need randomness there (from grinding thorough polishing out), you just need predictability.

If you're using spin grinding/polishing (fixed quill position) you need the tool to be held at the neutral spot (holds the ROC constant) and you need a faceting pattern on the polisher that doesn't imprint on the mirror.

If you're using strokes (SFAIK!) you need a pattern that doesn't repeat (rotation speed and stroke speed should be incommensurate, ie, not divide evenly into one another), and the average position of the stroke work needs to hold the ROC constant.

When you get to figuring an argument can be made for randomness. It will help to disguise machine artifacts, SFAIK. But I figure everything completely by hand, and I'm not trying to be random when doing it, though I'm not trying not to be random either - there are inevitable small variations. I don't think they are part of the essential process.

Quote:

off center curve generation




I just put that in the list, it's hard to do considering that you're always going to line the blank up in the generator somehow, to within a fractional mm, and that's all you need. Rough grinding centers the curve automatically...

Quote:

But still the randomness of all aspects creates a perfect sphere....




Not often and only for small mirrors, anyway. The odds of getting a perfect sphere by simple chance are tiny in larger sizes. But I did once pull a 1/6th wave paraboloid off the polisher by "chance." Not quite good enough to use, though I had to give the polisher big props for making it automatically.

Quote:

How can you create a *wedge* situation when you're rotating the mirror during generation? Or grinding for that matter?




Huh? The table rotates on my generator with the blank locked down on it. I added an extension table to it once and didn't check it carefully enough - it turned out a few astigmatic generations before it was caught. Now it has a really flat 5/8" aluminum table running on 3 big casters, it's scary how accurate it is.

Hogging out by machine takes an even amount off all around, so if there was a lot of wedge in the blank when you start, there's still some left when you're done. It shouldn't cause it though, rotation or not.

Grinding a mirror with wedge, or generating a blank with wedge if you don't clean it up - both produce a shape that when polished by machine shows astigmatism, as the polisher hits the high zones harder. You can polish it by hand without any issues though.

Quote:

You use lots of force while grinding?
Can you explain? How much actually?




It averages about 1/2 lb per square inch added to the tool weight, but since the tools are tile/glass embedded in Hydrostone they aren't 100% grinding surfaces. So I'm guessing anywhere from 1/2-1 lb per square inch of grinding surface, like 25 lbs for an 8.5" tool, or 50 lbs for a 12" tool (as for a 20" mirror). These are both grinding and polishing out loads. Figuring is about half that much, 10 lbs on a 7" polisher, for example. Or less, depending.

If you want the explanation that will take a lot longer. It's just what works best for me.

Best,
Mark


Post Extras: Print Post   Remind Me!   Notify Moderator  
Pages: 1 | 2 | 3 | (show all)


Extra information
14 registered and 8 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Moderator:  Don W, Mike I. Jones 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled


Thread views: 818

Jump to

CN Forums Home



Cloudy Nights Sponsor: Astronomics