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Equipment Discussions >> Mounts

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macular hole
super member


Reged: 08/12/09
Posts: 148
Re: Why not a wood pier? new [Re: scubaanddreams]
      #3345010 - 09/20/09 03:31 PM

Quote:

BOttom plate of extension. Note I also have a shorter extension, the important thing to figure out is how to mount that plate to the wood pier. Any help is appreciated.






Scuba could you give me an idea of the overall diameter of that bottom plate and the diameter of the inner circle that protrudes down from it with the screw hole?

Lowes has 10 inch long threaded rod in various diameters up to 3/4 inch. You can buy 3-4 of them at $4 a piece. if you go with 1/2" Diam by 10 inchers, just buy a 1/2 inch wood bore drill bit and drill 3 or four holes straight down into the top of your pier, about 5 inches deep. Fill each hole about half way up with polyurethane construction adhesive speced for use with treated wood. You can then just pound the threaded rod into the holes. The threaded rod can then be cut to the length you want with a hacksaw or sawzall with a metal blade. The key is that you want the holes to be as straight and parallel as possible. There are hand drill guides that you can possibly rent or borrow from someone that will provide you with a very straight hole.

Does that bottom plate come all the way out of the extension? if it does, I have a very easy solution for you.

Edited by macular hole (09/20/09 04:55 PM)


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macular hole
super member


Reged: 08/12/09
Posts: 148
Re: Why not a wood pier? new [Re: Falcon-]
      #3345087 - 09/20/09 04:03 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Now, I'm going to empty my french press and come up with the cheapest, easiest, best looking way to attach a top plate




I have an idea for attaching the mount plate to the end of a wood pier that might help with the end-grain problem. Rather then bolting into the top of the pier use two "angle iron" segments - aluminum or steel L shaped bars - lag-bolted into the wood with mount bolt holes in their tops.

I know around here there are consumer-facing scrap metal places where it is easy to get some nice thick aluminum angle irons. Those are quite easy to work with.

I am not sure if that matches your "best looking" criteria, but it should be cheap and easy!

- Sean




Sean, I like your idea as well. I would modify it as follows for Scuba using just one piece of aluminum angle that is 6x6x 71/2" long and 3/8"thick-

www.onlinemetals.com has aluminum angle that is 6 inches by 6 inches by 3/8" thick. You can get a piece that is 12 inches long for $27. They will even cut this to 7 1/2" inches for a small added fee. This will cover the entire top of the pier and will allow plenty of room under it for access to the mount bottom plate screw.

I would glue/screw a 7 1/2" long 2x4 layed on its side, under the free, open side of the aluminum angle. This will provide additional support for the otherwise open end of the aluminum angle piece, and provide a 3 1/2" open space between the top of the aluminum angle and the top of the wood pier. This space will allow access to the bolt used to attach the bottom plate of the mount extension. It will be open on both sides.

Aluminum is easy to drill. The tricky part though, is that smaller inner circular projection on the bottom of the mount extension plate with the screw hole in it.

Once it is complete, use a black aluminum paint on the angle bracket, screws, and 2x4 to match the mount!

Rmember to use stainless steel, glavanized, or treated wood screws to attach the aluminum angle plate to the treated wood pier. I would use two or three 1/2" by 3-4" long stainless lag bolts with matching washers. You need to predrill the holes in the wood before you screw in the lags. Use the holes drilled into the aluninum angle for a template to mark the holes.

Always wear safety glasses.


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Falcon-
sage


Reged: 09/11/09
Posts: 242
Loc: Gambier Island, BC, Canada
Re: Why not a wood pier? new [Re: macular hole]
      #3345108 - 09/20/09 04:23 PM

That modification sounds good to me - I was guessing at a three or 4 bolt pattern to mount originally, and the 2x4 support on the lose end is an excellent idea.

Does an inset hole really need to be created? I am guessing that it exists for easy centering of the mount onto the tripod or pier, something that is not necessary except for ease of setup if the mount is going to be removed/re-added repeatedly. Especially if a permeant pier extension tube is going to be mounted, then so long as the central bolt is well secured it will not be going anywhere.

--------------------
Tasco 11TE-5 'Lunagrosso': 4.5" Newtonian, 900mm f/7.9
Meade DS-2114S: 4.5" Newtonian, 1000mm f/8.8
Galileoscope: 50mm Achromatic Refractor, 500mm f/10
Tasco EQ-2-like mount w/ clock drive
Celestron CG-5GT mount

Edited by Falcon- (09/20/09 04:31 PM)


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HandyAndy
professor emeritus


Reged: 01/11/08
Posts: 652
Loc: West Midlands and around
Re: Why not a wood pier? new [Re: scubaanddreams]
      #3345112 - 09/20/09 04:24 PM

Hi,

I have a very similar looking half-pier base.

I found the bottom joint between the base plate and the pier tube had a lot of play. When it was taken apart there was a large gap which someone had try to fill with 3 bits of self adhesive Velcro base.

The top is similar but a previous owner had replaced the Hex bolts with SS thumbscrews with chamfered undersides. If you wiggle the top about and go round and tighten the thumbscrews you can take the wiggle out by seating all the chamfers in the holes.

At the moment my engineer is putting in 8mm bolts in the hope the tube can be distorted enough to clinch up to the plate.

Personally I would bolt 3 bits if angle inside the tube so I could then bolt the base onto the angles.

We will see what works.

I only found the problem when I used the half-pier on a steel base pier. On a tripod its lack of stiffness predominated.

If you could rout 4 slots in the sides of the pier a few inches down from the top to take a nut and drill a clearance hole down to the slot I would think you could get a good solid fix. You would be compressing the wood along its strongest direction.

Cheers. Andrew.

--------------------
Monarch 8x42, Zeiss 10x50 WA
10mm F2, Pentax 60mm F5
City: 7" MN78: MK4#2, 10" F6.3: MK4#1, 16" F5 ParaCorr
Country: 8" VISAC: (GP2)
Car: 6" F5 MPCC: SP, 5" 127mm F7.5 (GP2)
TV 55mm, Paragon 40mm, UO Pretoria 28mm
B&L 32 Pl, Clave's 25, 8, 6, 2x
Hyperions 5, 8, 13, 17, 24, 31
Nagler1 9mm, Meade 14mm 4000 UWA
Antares 1.6x, 0.7x, 0.5x


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Joe Hoener
journeyman


Reged: 02/26/09
Posts: 9
Loc: KS now, MA later
Re: Why not a wood pier? [Re: gnowellsct]
      #3371597 - 10/04/09 10:02 PM

Hedge(Osage Orange trees) posts are commonly used for fence posts here in Kansas. They are impervious to termites, and they do not rot, even after 30 years or more. The wood is so hard that hedge fenceposts are commonly driven by machine into the ground, like a large nail. A chainsaw will make sparks when cutting through a hedge limb. Native hedge should be found anywhere in the Midwest or Plains as a hedgerow or windbreak tree.

--------------------
One never know, do one?


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