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deSitter
Post Laureate
Reged: 12/09/04
Posts: 3322
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What is to prove?? This is what I find just crazy-making - we learned as kids that the main problem in optics, leaving aside convenience and specialized applications, is to get the best possible image from the least number of surfaces, because every surface encountered robs and scatters light and does not bend it perfectly - EVERY optical surface is a big withdrawal from the optical error budget. I am not claiming anything at all disputable or controversial - with the one exception of having sharp edge stars, a 9-element or 11-element design cannot begin to compete with a 3-element or 4-element one at the place where serious observing occurs, right on axis and right inside the sweet spot.
We were also taught as kids to optimize our observing technique - to learn patience and how to "see", vs. just looking. I think the reason is - in those days, amateurs were told they could still do useful scientific work - and indeed they still can - but we've come to think of ourselves as mere spectators, lazily pushing around our Dobs with their huge mirrors and massive wide angle oculars. This sort of observing is easy, fun, and rewarding. But I like the challenge of testing the limits of my eyes and my scope and have spent a lot of time learning the patience to see very dim things, very close things, and very detailed things. That sort of patience is just wasted on a complex design - the eye position is uncomfortable, the image milky from excessive glass scatter, dim from reflective loss, not as sharp as the objective can deliver because of accumulating surface errors.
My admitted prejudice comes from the time I inhabited - when amateurs were practically expected to take observing seriously and not treat it as just a pleasant, passive pastime.
-drl
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deSitter
Post Laureate
Reged: 12/09/04
Posts: 3322
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Ok let's give an example because I thought this was obvious but it's not I guess..
I put a 6mm Ortho in my 5" f/9.3 refractor and point it at the Trapezium - immediately I see E and F with direct vision. Now I put in a 6.7mm UWA - they are still there, but not with anything like the immediacy of the Ortho. So I try a 6.4mm Plossl of standard design - there they are, even more obvious than with the better eyepiece, the Ortho. I put in a 12.5mm Ortho + a PowerMate - still there, somewhat less sharp and dimmer. A 12.5mm + Barlow - missing. Well E flickers in and out of direct vision - F is missing. A 40mm Plossl + 5x TeleXtender - same as with the PowerMate, just a hair off the simple eyepiece.
I can go on and on with these lens combinations between orthos, superwides, ultawides, Plossls, Barlows.. and the result is always the same - the best view of these dim objects is in the simple design - they stand out better pretty much as some direct function of number of lenses. Now it's only on the objects that test the telescope that these differences are apparent, but there, it's so obvious that it's beyond numbers.
Now hunting like this is qualitatively different than just enjoying the view, something I like as much as anyone. That's why I have a whole set of wide fields.
-drl
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David Knisely
Postmaster
   
Reged: 04/19/04
Posts: 8775
Loc: Beatrice, Nebraska
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deSitter wrote:
Quote:
What is to prove??
You have yet to prove your statement: "the ultrawide designs are amazingly successful. As a solution to the problem of acutally SEEING THINGS at the limits of optics and perception, they are far from optimal". I will grant that the wide field (not "the Ultrawide, as that is a Meade re-engineering of an early Nagler design), may or may not be optimal. However, I would strongly contend that if they are not optimal (and that is not certain), the better ones are certainly not very far off optimal. My own experience pushing the limits of deep-sky observing has shown this to be true.
You are basically bashing all the wider-field designs based on poorly-conceived logic and not enough hard facts. All you really have is that you don't like using them for what you term "serious" observing. That is fine, but that is *your* personal choice. It may not be the choice of others and the reasons you gave to back up your choice may not be accurate as I demonstrated in my example. There is so much variation in design or production run quality that the items you cite as reasons may in fact not be nearly large enough to condemn the wider field designs wholesale as you have done.
Quote:
My admitted prejudice comes from the time I inhabited - when amateurs were practically expected to take observing seriously and not treat it as just a pleasant, passive pastime.
Gad, there you go again insulting people! There *are* serious people today doing serious "work" with both wide-field and simple eyepieces. Amateur Astronomy has been both a pleasant pass-time and a serious hobby for decades, and it continues to be that way. You have proven nothing.
-------------------- David W. Knisely
Hyde Memorial Observatory
http://www.hydeobservatory.info
Prairie Astronomy Club
http://www.prairieastronomyclub.org
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russell23
professor emeritus
Reged: 05/31/09
Posts: 729
Loc: Upstate NY
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I think the best way to truly make these comparisons would be to compare 4 vs 8 element designs with identical coating and lense grinding specifications.
My 20mm XW provides a brighter image than a 26mm Sirius plossl -- that despite the fact that the 20mm XW has 8 elements and a smaller exit pupil.
Perhaps a pentax Ortho should be put against a Pentax XW to see how much - if any - difference the human eye can detect. Based upon David K.'s earlier post it seems unlikely that all other things with coatings and grinding being equal, that the effects of extra elements would be detectable.
Dave
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Mike Hosea
Post Laureate
   
Reged: 09/24/03
Posts: 4338
Loc: "Metrowest" Boston
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Quote:
However, I would strongly contend that if they are not optimal (and that is not certain), the better ones are certainly not very far off optimal. My own experience pushing the limits of deep-sky observing has shown this to be true.
Danny argues in absolutes. Is x - y > 0 ? Yes or no. End of argument. If you take the right seat out of a Ferrari, I have no doubt that it will go faster. Where we disagree, probably, is whether taking the right seat out is worth doing. I mean, how you going to pick up chicks in your Ferrari without a right seat?
-------------------- Mike
- 7" f/6.7 home-built Newt and equatorial platform
- 36mm QX, 25mm Tak Or, 13mm Ethos, 9mm BGO, 6mm ZAO-II, 5.1mm XO, 2x TV Barlow.
- Filters: Baader M&S, 6-piece color set, ND.6, ND.9
- 120mm f/8.3 home-built grab-n-go Newt with 20mm Meade 5K SWA + GSO 3x Barlow
- Binoculars: 15x50 image stabilized, 12x50 roofs
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star drop
Guilty as Charged
   
Reged: 02/02/08
Posts: 18391
Loc: Snow Plop, WNY
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For those of us that use reflecting telescopes I think that the multi lens argument about light loss is a fickle point. How many of us have their mirrors re-coated with high reflectivity coatings every year or even every five years? My telescope came with standard 88% reflectivity coatings in 1988. Now I am contemplating having my 25" re-coated after 21 years. A few weeks ago I performed the dreaded shine a flashlight from behind the mirror test and confirmed for certain what I had been noticing for the past five years while observing. So while my telescope may be providing perhaps 50% - 60% total reflectivity I still enjoy the views. If I am happy now that could mean that with new coatings I would be happy viewing with an eyepiece that has approximately 80 elements assuming a .5% loss for each individual element.
-------------------- Ted
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nyc_nurse
sage
Reged: 07/29/09
Posts: 254
Loc: nyc
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Interesting points made on all sides. Taking out the amount of light loss due to more elements is there a way for us to judge empirically if a simpler design does indeed show better detail on-axis? There seems to be a lot of tools available, at least to professionals and to manufacturers, that would enable if not a definitive answer then more supportive evidence than an observer saying that they see more detail in one vs the other. I like to assume, however incongruous it might be, that the complex designs have the benefit of more sophisticated computer models. But that might be just wishful thinking on the part of this TV consumer.
-------------------- Sam P.
www.agirlandaguy.blogspot.com
Pentax 7X50
TV-102 APO w/ (Starbeam - on backorder )
Ash Gibraltar w/ SkyTour DSC
NZ3-6, N9T6, N13T6
TV 20 Plossl
Pan 24, 35
Pentax XW10, XW14
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hfjacinto
Almost got me
   
Reged: 01/12/09
Posts: 3016
Loc: Union,NJ
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Quote:
If you take the right seat out of a Ferrari, I have no doubt that it will go faster. Where we disagree, probably, is whether taking the right seat out is worth doing. I mean, how you going to pick up chicks in your Ferrari without a right seat?
They can sit on your lap, have you not seen the fast and the furious 2?
-------------------- Celestron 9.25 w/FeatherTouch Focuser, ASGT Mount
Meade SN6 w/Moonlite Focuser, LXD75 Mount
Orion EON 80 MM APO Refractor
5,6,9 MM Zhummel Planetary 17 MM Nagler T4
31,36 MM Hyperion 15,19,23 MM Axiom LX
6.7,8.8 MM Meade UWA & 11,13 MM Nagler T6
Planetary, OIII and Narrowband Filters
Thousand Oaks Dew Control w Kendrick Heaters
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Starman1
Vendor - Scope City
   
Reged: 06/24/03
Posts: 12474
Loc: Los Angeles
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Quote:
For those of us that use reflecting telescopes I think that the multi lens argument about light loss is a fickle point. How many of us have their mirrors re-coated with high reflectivity coatings every year or even every five years? My telescope came with standard 88% reflectivity coatings in 1988. Now I am contemplating having my 25" re-coated after 21 years. A few weeks ago I performed the dreaded shine a flashlight from behind the mirror test and confirmed for certain what I had been noticing for the past five years while observing. So while my telescope may be providing perhaps 50% - 60% total reflectivity I still enjoy the views. If I am happy now that could mean that with new coatings I would be happy viewing with an eyepiece that has approximately 80 elements assuming a .5% loss for each individual element.
 Try enhanced coatings. Then you can use anything in the focuser that you want--all at the same time!
I've proven to myself that sometimes adding glass increases what I can see through the eyepiece. Through the years I've also proven to myself that viewing with a telescope that has more elements and a larger secondary has no noticeable effect on the limiting magnitude I can see in the scope. If a purist thinks that using a refractor with monocentrics gains him a tiny bit of detail, so be it. Me, I'll just get a slightly bigger scope and use those zillion element ultrawidefields.
-------------------- Don Pensack
12.5" Truss Dob, 5" Maksutov, Fujinon Binos
Sustaining Lifetime IDA member
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Mike Hosea
Post Laureate
   
Reged: 09/24/03
Posts: 4338
Loc: "Metrowest" Boston
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Quote:
But that might be just wishful thinking on the part of this TV consumer.
Obviously the diffraction-limited zone tends to be wider on a fast scope. But at any rate, it's not usually an exclusive proposition. After reading a half-dozen conversations like this, where the virtues of less glass are extolled, you'll probably end up buying at least some decent, simpler designs to try out, just to see for yourself. Would sir like to try a UO HD orthoscopic?
-------------------- Mike
- 7" f/6.7 home-built Newt and equatorial platform
- 36mm QX, 25mm Tak Or, 13mm Ethos, 9mm BGO, 6mm ZAO-II, 5.1mm XO, 2x TV Barlow.
- Filters: Baader M&S, 6-piece color set, ND.6, ND.9
- 120mm f/8.3 home-built grab-n-go Newt with 20mm Meade 5K SWA + GSO 3x Barlow
- Binoculars: 15x50 image stabilized, 12x50 roofs
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nyc_nurse
sage
Reged: 07/29/09
Posts: 254
Loc: nyc
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Quote:
Would sir like to try a UO HD orthoscopic?
A most affirmative yes. I juggled the idea of 4 UO HD ortho EP's for planetary work but the cost was too close to a new Nagler zoom, which I settled on because of the "simple" yet complex design of having 4 EP's in one. I have no problem taking in the entire 82 degree FOV of the 13 Nagler but prefer a smaller field for planetary/double views - in fact the zoom's 50 degrees is plenty big enough for me at the magnifications I get.
-------------------- Sam P.
www.agirlandaguy.blogspot.com
Pentax 7X50
TV-102 APO w/ (Starbeam - on backorder )
Ash Gibraltar w/ SkyTour DSC
NZ3-6, N9T6, N13T6
TV 20 Plossl
Pan 24, 35
Pentax XW10, XW14
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FirstSight
Post Laureate
   
Reged: 12/26/05
Posts: 4432
Loc: Raleigh, NC
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If it comes down to a choice between simpler, three-element eyepieces with itty-bitty fields of view that give the advantage of perhaps transmitting a smidgen more light and a tad better chance of glimpsing the faintest of fuzzies, VERSUS generously wide fields of view that I can get pleasurably immersed in but possibly lose just a smidgen of light through all those element-to-element interfaces and thus render a few of the faintest of fuzzies invisible to me, I'll take the widefield EVERY TIME.
But that's just me, I don't claim this is a perspective everyone should universally follow. Personally, I simply don't get enough pleasure in trying to view objects through orthoscopics (or even plossls) to compensate for the sensation of viewing them in what amounts to a virtual broom closet to my sensibilities.
But hey - whatever floats your boat is fine with me, if chasing n-th magnitude remote galaxies that only Hubble and a relative handful of hard-core observers have ever seen and you think orthoscopics give you an appreciable advantage toward joinng the club of those with that accomplishment, or that an orthoscopic gives you a better chance of seeing one extra subtle festoon on Jupiter that my complex widefields purportedly fail to catch - GO FOR IT WITH MY SINCERE BLESSINGS, and I look forward to your observing report.
-------------------- Chris M., aka "First Sight"
Orion XT12i Dob with Moonlite CR-2 focuser
WO Megrez 90 refractor on UniStar Light mount
Nikon 10x50 Binoculars
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turtle86
Pooh-Bah Everywhere Else
   
Reged: 10/09/06
Posts: 1155
Loc: Up
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Today's lens coatings are so good that any loss of light by having "extra glass" in a good wide-field EP is negligible at best and not even worth quibbling over with larger aperture scopes so readily affordable now.
Quote:
I've proven to myself that sometimes adding glass increases what I can see through the eyepiece. Through the years I've also proven to myself that viewing with a telescope that has more elements and a larger secondary has no noticeable effect on the limiting magnitude I can see in the scope. If a purist thinks that using a refractor with monocentrics gains him a tiny bit of detail, so be it. Me, I'll just get a slightly bigger scope and use those zillion element ultrawidefields.
-------------------- Rob
18" Starmaster GOTO Zambuto #50
8" LX200 Classic Supercharged by Dr. Clay
Celestron 15x70 Skymaster Binoculars
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gnowellsct
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 06/24/09
Posts: 1126
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Quote:
Interesting points made on all sides. Taking out the amount of light loss due to more elements is there a way for us to judge empirically if a simpler design does indeed show better detail on-axis? There seems to be a lot of tools available, at least to professionals and to manufacturers, that would enable if not a definitive answer then more supportive evidence than an observer saying that they see more detail in one vs the other. I like to assume, however incongruous it might be, that the complex designs have the benefit of more sophisticated computer models. But that might be just wishful thinking on the part of this TV consumer.
Some of the complex designs actually have been measured to have high light loss, including the TVs and 14mm Meade UWA which came in somewhere around 89 to 90%. The XWs in yellow green are 96%. That leaves very little "room at the top" for a simple eyepiece to make a detectable difference. And these are eight lens designs, some of them anyhow, so if you go the distance in terms of glass quality, coatings, etc., it becomes an overstatement to say, as is the wont of my fellow Pentaxian addict Drl, that glass sucks light out of the eyepiece.
I think that it is more likely that the wide fields "lose light" by spreading it in ways that make the faintest stars at the margin disappear. I noticed in my Nagler 17T4 that in my preferred position there is actually a circular pool of kidney bean that is very very very very faint, but there. I think that as we position our eyes to take in some of these widefields we get effects that we may interpret to be light pass through but are not in fact that.
In any case detecting faint stars is something of an art, and time consuming. Trying out an XO5 vs an XW5 would probably best be done on Jupiter or Saturn, rather than in faint star detection. I just don't think an XO 5mm or a ZAO II 4 or 6mm is going to walk away from an XW5mm in a faint object contest.
Since the faintest objects at the margin actually wink in and out of view as seeing distributes the light to the invisibility threshold and then allows it to reconcentrate and momentarily get stronger, there is always going to be subjective issues to these tests of light throughput at the margin. The best you can hope for is a Palomar glob which is detectable with one eyepiece and not detectable with another, after repeated switching. But the point is because faint objects wink in and out, and there are variations in high atmospheric clouds etc., these tests really can't be performed very well.
But you can use eyepieces over a long period of time and figure out which ones you like, and when, at long last, you encounter a design that kicks a** and that you want to convert to that.
I tried using my Super Mono 10 for faint object detection and ended up getting rid of it. It turns out that part of what you need for faint object detection is *context.* That is, it is easier to "see" that "something is there" if you have enough field around the object so that when you use the paddle you have some context as to what is moving and there really is a soft light patch there that moves when you make the scope move. If the field is too narrow it constricts that. So I concluded I was better off with an XW10 than a Super mono 10. Jury is still out on the ZAO II, but I'm going to have to use these eyepieces for a long time, barring penury. I really like the magnification the ZAO II 16mm gives on my C14 (233x) so it has a niche.
regards Greg N
-------------------- "Aperture will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no aperture."
featuring selected astrojunk:
bunch o' widefield eyepieces
bunch o' narrowfield eyepieces
couple o' Barlows
couple o' scopes
couple o' mounts
couple o' tripods
and a pier 'n' stuff
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Darenwh
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 05/11/06
Posts: 1442
Loc: Covington, GA
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I am beginning to think the only way we are going to decide this once and for all is a shoot out between two eyepieces.
Lets say a 13mm Ortho vx a 13mm Ethos with a field stop added to stop it down to the same FOV as the Ortho.
This way, a count of faintest stars visible in same FOV in same telescope by a few experienced observers and you have it once and for all.
Will the Ethos show more stars or as many as the ortho? Who has the set and when can this be done.
I would love to be there but Georgia seems to be on a cloud and rain run and I don't really get much time to participate in something like this any ways.
Perhaps if the group getting ready to do the 5" refractor compairison could do a side by side in each scope of these two eyepieces we could really get a final verdict...
-------------------- Daren
Covington, GA
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gnowellsct
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 06/24/09
Posts: 1126
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Doh! The field of view on the wider field eyepiece will necessarily have more stars, UNLESS it is masked down with an artificial field stop.
You're not really interested in number of stars in any case. It's the faintest stars that are of interest, they can be compared to a photometric study (Luginbuhl and Skiff's book has a few). The trick is to have the observers do positional sketches of all the faintest stars they see in order to do a positive ID of them.
Any ol piece o' glass can bring in an 8th mag star.
Greg N
-------------------- "Aperture will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no aperture."
featuring selected astrojunk:
bunch o' widefield eyepieces
bunch o' narrowfield eyepieces
couple o' Barlows
couple o' scopes
couple o' mounts
couple o' tripods
and a pier 'n' stuff
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Jim Romanski
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 01/02/05
Posts: 1018
Loc: Guilford, Connecticut
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Quote:
you want your eye to be as relaxed as possible and to have the best light transmission.
When I was taught about the nature of light and seeing things I was not taught about light transmission but rather about contrast. Light transmission is important for seeing dim objects but contrast is what allows you to see anything. That is why filters work. All filters reduce light transmission. They do so selectively but they all reduce it. So why do they help us see things…contrast.
Theoretically, and typically, an eyepiece with fewer pieces of glass should allow more light transmission. If all other things were equal then they’d give better contrast as well. But that is never the case. Many things contribute to contrast such as eyepiece baffling, glass type, glass smoothness, chromatic aberration correction, image sharpness and of course coatings. I’ve had older cheap eyepieces (Kellners, Plossls, Orthos, etc.) all of which have fewer elements than my more expensive wider field eyepieces with many more lens elements. But on head to head comparison on planets and the moon I’d rather use my Radians and Naglers (Didn’t have the Ethos back then). Granted I only had older inexpensive versions but if the number of glass elements were the only reason for better contrast then they would have outperformed my more complicated eyepieces and I would have kept them. Instead I’ve given almost all of them away to beginning astronomers to learn on.
Now I don’t doubt that a well made simple design can give a superior image at its center as compared to a more complicated design. But I don’t believe that it just automatically does so because it has a simpler design. Most of the other things that can impair contrast like the ones I mentioned above must be equal or better in order to see the difference.
-------------------- Jim
17.5" Dob "Project"
13.1" Coulter
8” Cave
NP 101 on a CG-5
25x100 binos
Naglers, Ethos, etc.
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Jim Romanski
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 01/02/05
Posts: 1018
Loc: Guilford, Connecticut
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Quote:
Real observing.
Real observing? What do you call the observer searching for supernovas? What about the ones looking for comets? There are many types of observing that I would consider “real observing” that don’t involve looking at precise detail at high magnification. A comet hunter would want the widest field they could get. And they would want an eyepiece that was very well corrected so that the objects just entering the field didn’t all look like comets…same with the supernova hunter. And on the Moon when I’m looking for the Hadley Rille I want to see as much field as possible. Why? It’s easier to find things with you have context and can see a larger view. In fact I always want a large field of view when I look at the Moon. It’s a very large object. The only times when I don’t need as much field are planets and perhaps planetary nebula.
-------------------- Jim
17.5" Dob "Project"
13.1" Coulter
8” Cave
NP 101 on a CG-5
25x100 binos
Naglers, Ethos, etc.
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Starman1
Vendor - Scope City
   
Reged: 06/24/03
Posts: 12474
Loc: Los Angeles
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Quote:
I think that it is more likely that the wide fields "lose light" by spreading it in ways that make the faintest stars at the margin disappear. I noticed in my Nagler 17T4 that in my preferred position there is actually a circular pool of kidney bean that is very very very very faint, but there. regards Greg N
This is one Nagler I owned that I did not like. I found that when my eye was perfectly positioned behind the eyepiece I could see a ring of reduced light around the periphery of the field--not quite a kidney-bean shaped blackout, but always there, and especially visible if the whole field was filled with Milky Way. I did not see that effect in the 22T4 or the 12T4 or the 16T5, but it was always there. It looked like classic vignetting, but since longer focal lengths displayed none, it wasn't from the scope. Only one other eyepiece I've owned has such a noticeable dimming of the edge--the 35mm 1.25" 5-element "Pseudo-Masuyama" (aka Super Plossl)eyepiece (from several brands).
If I were a betting man, I'd say the eyepiece itself did not have full illumination at or near the edge.
Now what I saw was lateral--near the edge. What you've described is in the center, and that, I believe, would result from having your eye centered, having a small pupil diameter in the eye and a large exit pupil from the eyepiece. I bet it was most noticeable on the Moon, too. You don't say in what type of scope, but I'd bet either a Schmidt-Cassegrain or a sub-8" reflector with a secondary size chosen for full illumination of a 1/2" field. In other words, if you look for it in the daytime, it'll be easier to see. You've perfectly described the effects of secondary shadow in the image.
-------------------- Don Pensack
12.5" Truss Dob, 5" Maksutov, Fujinon Binos
Sustaining Lifetime IDA member
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sixela
Postmaster
   
Reged: 12/23/04
Posts: 11495
Loc: Boechout, Belgium
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Quote:
I mean, how you going to pick up chicks in your Ferrari without a right seat?
You mean "how do you observe wide objects at close to optimal detection magnification for the details when at the optimal magnification the object doesn'fit in the field of a narrow AFOV eyepiece"?
Mhhh..picking up chicks sounds a lot nicer.
It's pointless to argue with deSitter - he picks tests designed to favour non wide field eyepieces and then simply dismisses any observing style that doesn't fit that model as irrelevant. It's not a proof of anything but circular reasoning.
Nobody in his sane mind would pick a Nagler over an ortho for looking at the trapezium in M42 only. What's good about an Ethos is that you can often use enough magnification to detect E and F *and* still see more whisps of nebulosity extending very far away from it, all without moving the scope or losing context.
Sketching large objects is a pain in the lower back without a wide field. With an ortho, you never seem to get the location of your field stars vs. the other star and the location of small details right, or the proportions exactly right, because you can't see it all at once at the magnification the object deserves or needs. In effect, you have to do what photographers do when they make mosaics.
Of course, you *can* use low magnification, get your reference stars on the sketch, and then start navigating, going back to lower magnification to get the orientation of a small detail just right when the high mag view has too few field stars to do it well, but forgive me for thinking that it's like flogging yourself on the back and telling yourself it doesn't hurt.
And there's no hard rule that makes photons count the number of air-glass transitions and nothing else: Pentax XOs have one more lens group than orthos but the excellent coating and baffling makes a 5mm handsomely outperform all 5mm orthos except the Zeiss ones (ubt including the old Pentax ones!).
And on Jupiter, some nights ago, I actually picked a Zeiss-barlowed Pentax XW as the eyepiece of choice. Yes, it has lots of lens groups and "too much glass", but the added eye relief actually helped to reduce the glare caused by the reflection of Jupiter on the eyeball (even at 400x in my scope I have an exit pupil close to 1mm and Jupiter can be darn bright), and the excellent coatings means that even the barlowed combination almost feels like a simple eyepiece design (and the scatter around Jupiter is markedly less present than in e.g. a T6 Nagler).
That night I could also use an ortho and Pentax XO with a filter to reduce that irritating glare (I have both at similar effective focal lengths to my barlowed Pentax XW) and I actually tried it -- and would have expected to prefer it, because I only happened to use the XW because I had been gawking at deep sky objects.
But I couldn't achieve the same depth of colour that I could with the unfiltered Pentax XW (even though the detail was still there, with a complex group of three barges playing with each other in the NEB, the subtle tone differences weren't as vivid and the festoons close by didn't seem quite that blue anymore).
Guess what? I used the Pentax XW because that night it worked better, somehow. I don't like to be guided by religious fervour above all else.
--------------------
400mm f/4.46 self made Dobsonian on Tom Osypowski equatorial platform
Orion Starblast (114mm f/4 reflector, Alt/Az)
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