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Dean Norris
sage
Reged: 11/05/08
Posts: 431
Loc: Santa Cruz, Ca
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I've discovered that my Cave 10" f/6 newt has a 1 3/8 " secondary mirror. I am assuming that the standard size for these scopes are 2.14" or something close to that size. If you happen to know what your 10" f/6 has or know off hand what these scopes came with I would like to know. I am considering changing what I have with a Protostar secondary 2.14" in size. I've arrived at this size by posting the question on the Reflector forum and have done some reading of my own on-line. Thanks Dean
-------------------- 1971 10" Cave Newtonian F/6
MoonLite CR Focuser Telrad Finder 8x50 finder
TV 40mm, 32, 20, 7.4, Meade 6mm, UO 5mm, Meade 2x Barlow
7x50 Binoculars
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oldtimer
sage
 
Reged: 11/13/08
Posts: 301
Loc: NW Illinois
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Why not compromise, get a 1.83 and a low (like Featheretouch) profile focuser.
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Compressorguy
sage
Reged: 03/14/09
Posts: 227
Loc: North Carolina
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My Cave 10" Deluxe F/6 made on Dec 29, 1976 has a 2-1/4" secondary holder, so I assume the mirror is close to the 2.14" figure you listed.
-------------------- Scott
1976 Cave 10" Deluxe f/6
Late 70's Meade 628 6" f/8
1950's Selsi 80mm X 910mm f/11
1960's Lafayette 60mm X 800mm f/13
2005 Meade 10" LX200GPS f/10
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Dean Norris
sage
Reged: 11/05/08
Posts: 431
Loc: Santa Cruz, Ca
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Thank you Scott and oldtimer. A 3 vane spider with a 1.83" secondary from Protostar is now what I'm considering. I keep going back and forth regarding the secondary size between the 1.83" and the 2.14". With these other upgrades, Moonlite focuser, primary fan, Telrad.and 8x50 straight through finder my Cave will be in good shape. I wonder how much of an improvement I can expect from this new secondary and 3 vane spider. I will gain .45" in secondary size and 1/4 less diffraction with a 3 vane spider. I look forward to seeing the results. Dean
-------------------- 1971 10" Cave Newtonian F/6
MoonLite CR Focuser Telrad Finder 8x50 finder
TV 40mm, 32, 20, 7.4, Meade 6mm, UO 5mm, Meade 2x Barlow
7x50 Binoculars
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deSitter
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/09/04
Posts: 2928
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Protostar make good things but I would seriously consider just ordering the stuff from Parks and sticking to a 4-vane design - that's a heavy diagonal on 6" vanes and it's pushing it with only three of them.
You can order the secondary holder alone from Parks
http://www.parksoptical.com/index2.php?cPath=26_134&cat=Secondary+Mirror+Holders
and I'd be surprised it they weren't just drop-in replacements for the Cave secondary holders, or easily adapted to the existing spider.
-drl
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clintwhitman
Caveman
   
Reged: 01/01/07
Posts: 2435
Loc: ValVerde CA(SoEasyaCavemanCanD...
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If yor going to mod the spider Go Curved get more local contrast and no spikes !!
-------------------- Clint&Debbie Whitman (aveman
1960s 6"F15 Jaegers-Unipons by John Pons on a Byers 812, 1947 4" F15 TINSLEY, 1965 10" F8 CAVE, 1950 5CM & 6.5CM Nippon Kogakus (the twins), 1960s UNITRONS a 152 restored a 160 numbered green lens original mint a 114 original 50s mint, 1950s UNITRON M100 100mm F15 OTA, WO 80mm Florite, ASTROPHYSICS 155 EDFS on LOSMANDY G11, a bunch of Tascos,Sears Mayflowers The list goes on Add infinitum.
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Dean Norris
sage
Reged: 11/05/08
Posts: 431
Loc: Santa Cruz, Ca
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Thanks for your advice guys. Just today I placed the order with Protostar. The collimation of the Protostar spider and secondary mirror holder sounds like a superior design than the one I've been using on my scope. I chose the 3 vane spider for reducing diffraction over the 4 vane model. I did consider the curved vane as well but found out that this design spreads the diffraction out which can appear as a glow around bright objects like Jupiter. The diffraction spikes in a 4 vane have never really bothered me but I thought if it is reduced some in a 3 vane then it would be good. I'm looking forward to making these upgrades to my scope. Especially increasing the secondary from 1.37" to a 1.83". It's embarrassing that I didn't realize sooner that the secondary I've been using was so undersized. After upgrading I might notice and increase in aperture and resolution. Though I've been able to see some amazing things in this scope as is. Dean
-------------------- 1971 10" Cave Newtonian F/6
MoonLite CR Focuser Telrad Finder 8x50 finder
TV 40mm, 32, 20, 7.4, Meade 6mm, UO 5mm, Meade 2x Barlow
7x50 Binoculars
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wfj
sage
   
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 260
Loc: California, Santa Cruz County
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I have used as little as a 1.77" and gotten away with it on a 10". Use the "Newt" program to evaluate illumination / vignetting - smaller secondaries require low profile focuser and moving the primary down the tube.
As long as the secondary is large enough minimally to get the outside light cone of the edge of the mirror, it will act just as well as any other. So lets say with f/6 and a 1.375" diagonal, at a minimum the center of the tube to the focuser's image plane would have to be 6*1.375 or 8.25". At that point an exactly centered star would receive 100% illumination, with extremely small circle of illumination and highly visible vignetting.
Two benefits of larger secondaries are wider field illumination of an wide field EP and a larger uniform illumination for a film sized image (inchs instead of fraction of inches). Some find vignetting annoying.
Two benefits of smaller secondaries are better contrast and a diffraction pattern with a brighter center spot and less light in the first diffraction ring.
We go through selling trends of bigger/smaller all the time. In the late 70's/early 80's big secondaries were the rage - my 10" dating from then had a 3". For a while I had two identical 10" newts and I played games with changing secondaries from 1.77" to 3", and asked for opinions of others on a wide range of wide field and narrow field objects, from M8/M42/M45/... to Saturn/Algieba/Epsilon Lyrae/Mars.
I ended up with a 1.83" for a while, then went to a 1.77". I have one friend who did the same and ended up with a 1.5" - he has a unusual telescope focuser to do this. Another 1.83", and another a 2.14". YMMV
(see http://www.telescope-optics.net/obstruction.htm)
Oh, and I also did the various spider route - started with a circular, tried 1-4 vanes.
Circular(s) are the worst, bar none. The physics of it is that it scatters light the most (through 360 degrees), reducing contrast most. 2 or 4 are best to me, although I still have a 3 vane that works just fine and I'm not planning to change for diffraction reasons, but due to a stiffness issue (it oscillates).
Spider diffraction largely depends on the surface area obscured - more area, more diffraction. Circulars are greater area because an arc is longer than a straight line for spanning the gap to the center. As length increases, stiffness demands a thicker / longer material, and area rises. A thin four vane can have the least area for stiffness given adequate tension and least degrees of freedom of movement(fixation). Live with the spikes.
(see http://www.telescope-optics.net/spider.htm)
At least with the spikes, you can "move" them so as to see detail between them.
Much of this issue is overdone. The 20% secondary size rule is "good enough". Most spiders are good enough. Much of this is just fashion trends - hemlines go up, hemlines down.
If you want to obsess, look at the optical configuration / position / stability / quality of components of the OTA.
You'd be surprised how many scopes, classic and fresh from the the box, are under performing due to basic, obvious flaws.
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tim53
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 12/17/04
Posts: 1459
Loc: Highland Park, CA
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I think you'll be happy with the 3-vane. I have one in my 12.5" Cass and I can't see spikes at all with it. I made mine out of thin brass stock.
I was going to suggest a 4-vane, though, since you have holes in the tube already for a 4-vane. The tricky thing about a 4-vane is that if the opposite vanes aren't exactly in line, you'll get more diffraction (up to 8 spikes in close-together pairs). And adjusting the lengths of any vane will offset the vanes perpendicular to it - unless you can move the mounting holes at the same time!
I made a curved spider for my 8" springfield, and though it does eliminate spikes, I decided that it's not worth the spreading around of the diffraction I'd get by trying to make one beefy enough for the 12.5"
-Tim.
-------------------- "We`re just waiting looking skyward as the days come down.
Someone promised there`d be answers, if we stayed around."
-Orchestral Maneuvers in the Dark, "The Romance of the Telescope"
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deSitter
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/09/04
Posts: 2928
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I like 3-vanes too, stars like Vega take on an amazing look - this is a case where an outright defect is sort of cool 
-drl
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deSitter
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/09/04
Posts: 2928
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Quote:
My Cave 10" Deluxe F/6 made on Dec 29, 1976 has a 2-1/4" secondary holder, so I assume the mirror is close to the 2.14" figure you listed.
BTW Compressorguy, this is an incredible looking scope The way the Unitron defines the achromatic refractor, this defines the equatorial Newtonian!
-drl
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Dean Norris
sage
Reged: 11/05/08
Posts: 431
Loc: Santa Cruz, Ca
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Thanks for your input everybody. The changes I have made to this scope have improved it a lot. I'm expecting the same for these upgrades (secondary and spider). Last November when I began restoring my telescope I was really in the dark about the workings of the scope and mount. It's been an enjoyable and educational process that CN has played a major role. Dean
-------------------- 1971 10" Cave Newtonian F/6
MoonLite CR Focuser Telrad Finder 8x50 finder
TV 40mm, 32, 20, 7.4, Meade 6mm, UO 5mm, Meade 2x Barlow
7x50 Binoculars
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xgamma
member
Reged: 06/17/09
Posts: 20
Loc: Rockland County, NY
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My 10" F/6 Cave also appears to have a roughly 2" secondary. It looks like OEM.
-------------------- C-14 Orange Tube on CGE
Cave Astrola Deluxe 10" F/6
Meade 826 F/6
Questar Duplex 3.5"
Celestron 25x100 Binoculars
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