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jkevn
sage
Reged: 03/02/06
Posts: 211
Loc: Tucson, Arizona
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General comments:
Clean optics as little as possible. Every time an optical element is cleaned, there is some risk of scratching it.
Saliva particles and fingerprints should be cleaned soon because of salt and acidity, but typical AR coatings on commercial optics products like cameras and binoculars are pretty robust, and it will be a long time before exposure to fingerprints or spit damages them. Just talking really does result in flying spit particles.
Blow off optics often with compressed canned air (upright position!), but clean as little as possible by wiping.
The main culprit in scratching from wiping is dust with minerals from dirt or sand that are as hard or harder than the coatings and the glass, that get trapped between the cleaning wipe and the lens. Never dry wipe. Blowing off really well before damp or wet wiping helps a lot to prevent scratching.
Sometimes "sleeks", tiny scratches, show up after cleaning by wiping, even though all precautions are taken. These will be visible with a bright light source, like a fiber light in reflection. If the sleeks are minor, I think that this has little affect when viewing astronomical objects in binoculars.
Kevin
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Jeronimo Cruz
super member
Reged: 09/01/08
Posts: 141
Loc: Tucson, AZ
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Quote:
Some of you guys must live in a hospital clean vacuum.

It's interesting to see the spectrum of resposes!
-------------------- Jeronimo
TeleVue 101 + Gibralter
Celestron NS11 GPS/wedge + Hyperstar
Photon Instruments 127mm + SV F50W2
Lunt Solar Systems LS60DS Ha + Celestron CG-5
Naglers, Panoptics, Radians, Nikon binoviewer
Fujinon 10x70 FMT-SX, 7x42 CD; Canon 15x50IS;
Pentax 7x50 PCF WP, 10x50 PCF WPII, 10x50 DCF SP
Work
20" R/C RCOS on Paramount + Tak FSQ
16" R/C RCOS on Paramount + TEC 140
16" Meade LX200 SCT + TV 76
Ethos, Naglers, Panoptics
Coronado Solarmax 90mm Ha
Coronado Solarmax 70mm Ca
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Tony Flanders
Post Laureate
Reged: 05/18/06
Posts: 3469
Loc: Cambridge, MA, USA
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Quote:
It's interesting to see the spectrum of resposes!
I was thinking about that. As I said, I've hardly ever cleaned my binoculars, but I won't hesitate to do so if needed. I've cleaned most of my telescope's eyepieces many times.
But I have my oldest pair of binos right next to me in the office, and as far as I can remember, I've never cleaned them. Maybe dusted off the lenses with a camel-hair brush at most. Yet the lenses look nearly pristine.
The fact that I *always* use them with glasses on eliminates any chance of eyelash grease. And I'm not in the habit of rubbing my fingers over the objectives.
-------------------- Tony Flanders
First and foremost observing love: naked eye.
Second, binoculars.
Last but not least, telescopes.
And I sometimes dabble with cameras.
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BillC
on a new path
   
Reged: 06/04/04
Posts: 2237
Loc: Washington, USA
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"Some of you guys must live in a hospital clean vacuum."
Love it! In the professional optics world I live in, we call these folks "Nit Noids."
EdZ says you should use common sense. But, as Mark Twain pointed out: "Common sense is the least common of all the senses."
This hobby has many facets. For some the thrill is in coming up with elaborate solutions to non-existant problems . . . Let them be happy!
-------------------- William J. Cook, Chief Opticalman, USNR-Ret.
Founding Editor, Amateur Telescope Making Journal
20-year vet. of Captain's Nautical Supplies, Optics Dept. Mgr.
Optics Machanic, WG11-3306, Ft. Lewis, Tacoma,WA
Yata, Yata, Yata . . .
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edwincjones
Postmaster
   
Reged: 04/10/04
Posts: 5668
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well-what can you expect from us?
we are a group that likes to stay up all night looking a faint blobs of light we are even a subgroup that has turned our backs on the telescope and use binoculars and in our spare time spend hours on CNs arguing trivia
--------------------
n w arkansas
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BillC
on a new path
   
Reged: 06/04/04
Posts: 2237
Loc: Washington, USA
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Hey, I stooped to working for the army. But, once a curmudgeon always a curmudgeon. Methinks its genetic.
Sadly, I can't argue trivia as much as I would like. It's not that I mind making folks mad, I just can't type fast. Stroke, you know.
Cheers,
Bill
-------------------- William J. Cook, Chief Opticalman, USNR-Ret.
Founding Editor, Amateur Telescope Making Journal
20-year vet. of Captain's Nautical Supplies, Optics Dept. Mgr.
Optics Machanic, WG11-3306, Ft. Lewis, Tacoma,WA
Yata, Yata, Yata . . .
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Mike Rapchak
professor emeritus
Reged: 11/17/06
Posts: 568
Loc: Indiana, USA
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Jeronimo,
First I want to apologize to you and to everyone else for the length of this reply: it's long, and hopefully not too boring! 
This is an interesting topic (as is obvious by the number of replies!). It is one that never concerned me until last year. I've owned binoculars since 1969. I recall that I hardly ever cleaned any of them (optics). Over the past few years I've used my 1984-vintage Celestron Nova 10x50s quite extensively, mostly "out in the field" (I do a lot of railroad photography). I haven't exactly treated them with "kid gloves". I almost never use the lens caps (too inconvenient and too much risk of losing them). So yes, they get dirty. I've frequently resorted to the hot-breath blow/wipe the lenses with my shirt, etc. Yet I've apparently done no damage to the lenses. These binos are built like the proverbial tank. After discovering CN in late 2006 and reading up on binos I realized how dumb and potentially dangerous my lens-cleaning process was. Now I'm much more careful with the Celestrons.
I clean them fairly frequently, with my camera shop's lens fluid and Kodak lens-cleaning paper. These do a fine job. I first take one piece of lens paper, wet it with a few drops of the fluid, then clean each lens with a circular motion, starting from the center and working outward. Next I take a dry piece of lens paper, blow warm air on the lens, and repeat the circular cleaning motion. The only glitch is that this doesn't get the (now dried) fluid off the lens. So I repeat with a third lens tissue - blowing warm air and the circular wiping. This results in a nicely cleaned lens. I use the same equipment and technique on my camera lenses, producing the same result. As far as I can tell there is no damage to any of these lenses.
However, this was/is not the case with my Vixen ARK 16x80 binos. I bought these in early 2007, and they're delightful. But last Summer I noticed that, when viewing Jupiter, the image seemed a bit "smeared", and there was an increased amount of CA - twice what I'd seen when looking a Jupiter the previous Summer. My conclusion was that the lenses had gotten dirty - though I had no idea how. I am a smoker, and even though I keep the Vixens in their case in my bedroom (wherein I never smoke) and treat them like gold, I assumed that cigarette residue had nonetheless found its way into the case an onto the lenses (even though they were capped).
So I decided that they definitely needed a cleaning. As I described, my standard cleaning process works fine on my Celestron binos and my camera lenses. Not so with the Vixen lenses[!]. For the life of me I could not figure out why. What would happen was that when I did the warm-air blow/dry-tissue phase the lenses would begin to look "greasy". Something seemed to be putting some kind of residue on them. I could be wrong, but I suspected that it was skin oil from my finger "bleeding" through the lens tissue. Why wan't this occurring on my other equipment?
I tried twice to clean the Vixens and then gave up, not wanting to increase the risk of damaging the optical surfaces. Later it dawned on me (duh) that one thing I didn't own was a lens-cleaning cloth. I bought one from my camera shop, pulled out the Vixens, and did my usual cleaning routine on them, this time finishing up with the lens cloth. Suddenly the lenses once again appeared pristine, essentially the same as brand new. I was very pleased by this, and even more relieved. I had the Vixens out one night this August, and noticed a bit of CA on Jupiter, but different from what I'd seen previously (a kind of orange-ish fringe at the 4-5 o'clock and 7-8 o'clock positions). My conclusion was that my cleaning had really helped but that the lenses still weren't completely clean. Hmm. Yet when I swung the Vixens over about 30 degrees to view the just-past-half-full Moon I was very impressed. "Stunned" may be too strong of a word, but the view definitely gave me pause. Now, 16x isn't a heck of a lot, but I could clearly see the mountains, "seas", and craters. And I mean craters! A multitude of them. And absolutely no CA visible anywhere. The best word I can think of to describe the view is "stark". And "razor sharp". The detail was simply amazing. It was the most rewarding view of Luna I've ever had in my life; not just through the Vixens alone. This was when I took the seeing conditions much more into context as far as the view of Jupiter was concerned. I agree with many here on this forum: Jupiter is one of the most difficult objects to view satisfactorily. One reason (probably the main one) is that it is so darned bright! I can understand why folks recommend filters.
So, this is my detailed (probably too much) commentary on binocular optics cleaning. To me the most important event in years optics-wise was the purchase of the lens-cleaning cloth. A minor miracle, IMO.
Yet I still cannot fathom why my standard lens-cleaning process works fine for my other equipment but not for the Vixens.
Any ideas/suggestions are greatly appreciated.
All the best,
Mike Rapchak Jr.
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Jeronimo Cruz
super member
Reged: 09/01/08
Posts: 141
Loc: Tucson, AZ
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Hi Mike,
My guess is that perhaps, because the coatings are different, the lenses may be reacting differently to your cleaning. Just a guess though.
My advice is to do what works for you. Personally, I had to experiment a little until I learned what works for me. Now I stick with it vigorously to eliminate the variables.
Final product is all that matters.
-------------------- Jeronimo
TeleVue 101 + Gibralter
Celestron NS11 GPS/wedge + Hyperstar
Photon Instruments 127mm + SV F50W2
Lunt Solar Systems LS60DS Ha + Celestron CG-5
Naglers, Panoptics, Radians, Nikon binoviewer
Fujinon 10x70 FMT-SX, 7x42 CD; Canon 15x50IS;
Pentax 7x50 PCF WP, 10x50 PCF WPII, 10x50 DCF SP
Work
20" R/C RCOS on Paramount + Tak FSQ
16" R/C RCOS on Paramount + TEC 140
16" Meade LX200 SCT + TV 76
Ethos, Naglers, Panoptics
Coronado Solarmax 90mm Ha
Coronado Solarmax 70mm Ca
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KennyJ
   
Reged: 04/27/03
Posts: 12904
Loc: Lancashire UK
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Mike ,
I have similar problems with one particular pair of eyeglasses ( one in 7 different pairs that I've had since 2003 ) .
The ones in question are non - tinted distance glasses with so - called " Pentax " lenses that have anti - glare AND anti- scratch additional coatings , and which I wear exclusively for driving in less than bright conditions .
I've never understood how the anti - glare feature can work if applied BEFORE the anti- scratch layers , or how the anti - scratch property can work if applied BEFORE the anti - glare layers -- but either way they have always been a nightmare to clean , have never really reduced glare to any noticeable level , and are now scratched ! :-)
I've found the only way I can them anywhere near " clean " is by brushing them lightly with a soft artists' paintbrush , then applying neat household mild washing - up liquid over both sides of the lenses , rubbing this gently in and all over with a clean microfibre cloth , then rinsing under the cold water tap , drying with kitchen roll , then wiping again with a clean dry microfibre cloth until all residue is removed .
Usually , within an hour of driving , they are showing smears again !
Kenny
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mooreorless
Just worried
   
Reged: 07/05/05
Posts: 1825
Loc: Cornpropst Mills,Huntingdon,Pa
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Kenny when you say "drying with kitchen roll" is this what we call paper roll towels, you tear off a piece? If it is I used to scratch a lot of my plastic eye glasses with these without knowing it. These will scratch binocular lens caps. I use warm water on the lens first and then put dishwashing soap on and lightly clean with my fingers and then air dry a little bit and then use the microfibre cloth and haven't scratched any since, well except when I drop them or have something hit the lens when working. These have the AR coatings and scratch resistant coating as well. The AR coating are easy to smear I agree. Binoculars are different story, if water proof under warm water first and the same thing the rest. The running water moreorless gets rid of the dust etc., at least I hope.:-)
Kenny do you see two images of road signs at night? I used to in my old non AR coated glasses. Polycarbonate glasses, not the best but mostly get them to protect my eyes.
-------------------- Regards,Steve M
Edited by mooreorless (11/01/09 09:27 AM)
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KennyJ
   
Reged: 04/27/03
Posts: 12904
Loc: Lancashire UK
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Hi Steve ,
The " kitchen roll " is indeed the type of soft tissue paper from which square shaped sheets can be torn along perforated lines .
We use a very soft brand , so soft that it has images printed on it , of snowmen and teddy bears with blue bow ties playing yellow and red double bass guitars .
It's not very hard or abrasive -- in the absence of any fine sand paper , I once tried it to smooth down some rough soft woodwork prior to painting , and the tissue paper just disintegrated .
I believe that type of wood to be softer than glass !
At any rate , it's never scratched any of my other glasses in over six years of almost daily use !
Kenny
-------------------- If everyone is thinking the same thing , no-one is thinking - General George S.Patton
Zeiss 7 x 42 BGAT
Captain's Helmsman 7 x 50
Nikon 10 x 42 Superior E
Swift Audubon Kestrel 10 x 50
Helios 15 x 70 Observation
Strathspey 20 x 90
Televue 76 APO
Zeiss 85 Diascope
Helios 102 f5 refractor
Various eyepieces barlows tripods mounts etc.
Panasonic Lumix DMC - TZ5 digital camera
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mooreorless
Just worried
   
Reged: 07/05/05
Posts: 1825
Loc: Cornpropst Mills,Huntingdon,Pa
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Hi Kenny thanks for your reply. I was sort of shocked that this stuff that we have scratched the caps. I use soft brush and Zeiss wipes, lots of them to clean the binocular lens. I have noticed that you have to "wait" until the wipes are starting to dry before you can get a clear lens.
-------------------- Regards,Steve M
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Mike Rapchak
professor emeritus
Reged: 11/17/06
Posts: 568
Loc: Indiana, USA
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Jeronimo,
Your suggestion is a possibility; yet I've never heard of such a thing. Could it be that different coatings could cause this? My Vixens have that beautiful deep greenish coating. My Celestrons also have it, but seemingly to a lesser degree (1984 coatings vs. 2007).
If this is truly the case, does this also happen with other current binos? Is anyone here aware of such a situation with their equipment? If this is the way it is, then so be it. However, I am still very concerned about possibly damaging the optics by cleaning that I would consider too rigorous and too frequent. My Vixens are, well, gorgeous, and I treat them accordingly - somewhat different than I've until recently treated my Celestrons (duh). 
Mike Rapchak Jr.
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Mike Rapchak
professor emeritus
Reged: 11/17/06
Posts: 568
Loc: Indiana, USA
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Kenny,
Many thanks for your reply. That is certanly odd about that particular pair of glasses of yours. Whether or not it relates to my Vixen situation I can't say.
Personally I would never use "kitchen roll"-type of paper to clean optics - at least not expensive ones. I do use paper towels - plus rubbing alcohol - to clean my cheap reading glasses. But I wouldn't use it on my binos or camera lenses. My impression is that this type of paper can leave micro-fine scratches on the glass. These scratches are so fine that they can't be readily observed visually. But they will eventually destroy an optic's resolution (sharpness) ability. This is why a lens-cleaning cloth is, IMO, a godsend. 
Mike Rapchak Jr.
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