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Astrophotography and Sketching >> Beginning and Intermediate Imaging

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Kchula-Rrit
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Reged: 10/17/07
Posts: 39
Loc: East San Fran Bay Area, Calif.
After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new
      #3455070 - 11/18/09 01:01 PM

A few days ago I noticed the stars starting to move off of the top of the screen during 150-second exposures. There were no trails or oblong stars, but they would change position by a few pixels between subsequent exposures. I had done a drift-alignment, so I figured this "should not happen."

I've read about the Shoestring Astronomy GP-USB; it can supposedly apply occasional small corrections to the mount. Would it help prevent the stars from moving? The mount is an Orion Atlas EQ-G, and I am using Maxim v5. In the guider set-up, it appears to be able to use the GP-USB.

K-R.

--------------------
Stellarvue Nighthawk Tenth Anniv. (NH7?) - 3-inch Refractor
Stellarvue 2-inch Refractor
1973 Sears Discoverer 3-inch Refractor - "Nemo"
Orion EQ-G Atlas with EQ-MOD - "Charles"
Orion Star-Shoot DSI v1
Meade LPI & DSI


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Galaxyhunter
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Kchula-Rrit]
      #3455099 - 11/18/09 01:17 PM

You will need a second camera (& guide scope). But yes. this is autoguiding & it will keep your image from shifting as long as you are polar aligned.

--------------------
Carl

Equipment List

My lousy skies at Hawkeye Observatory


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Jared
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Kchula-Rrit]
      #3455165 - 11/18/09 01:53 PM

Even after a drift alignment you will still see stars drifting to some extent. You will still have periodic error in your RA drive, and even a drift alignment is imperfect. If nothing else, it won't be able to account for atmospheric refraction at different altitudes in the sky, so as stars climb and set your telescope needs to slightly speed up and slow down (a very minor affect in most situations, but certainly not zero).

If your drift alignment is pretty good, then periodic error is almost certainly the major limiting factor in how long an exposure you can capture before stars become oblong. An autoguider can resolve this issue (or at least help mitigate it).

A GP-USB is how you will connect from your computer to the telescope, but it is only one part of the autoguiding setup. You will also need a guide camera and a guide scope mounted onto your existing scope. While your primary camera is busy taking long exposures of your subject, the guide camera and scope take short (1-5 second) exposures of a background star, look for movement between images, and send corrections to the mount through the GP-USB. If you decide to move forward with a guide scope, the key to success is small, light, and securely mounted. You don't need a high quality scope or camera--just something that is securely attached to your primary scope so that you don't run into issues with differential flexure--when the guide camera shifts ever so slightly as the mount tracks.

--------------------
- Jared Willson
  • A few refractors
  • A couple of GEM's
  • One camera
  • Two eyeballs
  • Some heavily light polluted skies



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NKT
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Jared]
      #3455178 - 11/18/09 02:01 PM

Do you need to use a GP-USB to send the pulses? Or can you use the RS232 through the hand controller?

--------------------

CGEM800
Orion 80ED
Canon XSi/Meade DSI II

Find fellow amateur astronomers: www.ScopeBuddies.com


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Jared
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: NKT]
      #3455193 - 11/18/09 02:07 PM

The GPUSB is intended to connect directly to the guide port on the mount. Some users have found that you get better results going through the guide port rather than through the hand controller. The reason has to do with timing...

Hand controllers don't necessarily send the correction immediately to the mount. If the delay is long enough, then a new guide image is taken, the original guide error is still present, and the guiding software will send a second pulse. This second pulse and the original pulse both get applied to the mount, and you may have overshot your correction. The cycling back and forth as you chase the timing in your hand controller will degrade the tracking. That's the reason most astronomers prefer to run the corrections straight to the guide port--instructions are executed as soon as they are sent.

--------------------
- Jared Willson
  • A few refractors
  • A couple of GEM's
  • One camera
  • Two eyeballs
  • Some heavily light polluted skies



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cdndob
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Reged: 07/28/06
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Jared]
      #3455256 - 11/18/09 02:56 PM

I think most have shown now that guiding through the HC vs the guide port has little or no effect on guiding accuracy. If any small delay is added (milliseconds) it can easily be discounted when compared to the long image capture time (typically 1 to 2 seconds), at least this is what I've read on the subject. Also, I've had no issues guiding through the HC when imaging at modest focal lengths (200-1100 mm).

Steve

--------------------


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John Wunderlin
Vendor - Spike-a Focusing Mask
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Reged: 10/01/04
Posts: 884
Loc: Mineral Point, Wi
Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: cdndob]
      #3455391 - 11/18/09 04:08 PM

If you haven't purchased a camera for guiding yet, you may want to consider the Orion Starshoot Autoguider. It has a camera and autoguiding interface built in- no need for GPUSB. I have on and I think it's a nice setup. Very light and self-contained. They also have an automated guider unit, but I actually prefer choosing the stars myself to having the camera make the decision.

--------------------
John Wunderlin
Vendor - Spike-a Bahtinov Focusing Mask
Empire Ranch Observatory
Iowa County Astronomers


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Mert
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: John Wunderlin]
      #3455461 - 11/18/09 04:44 PM

Just a question, since I see you're using an EQ6.
Are you using EQMOD by any chance?
That way you could add VS-PEC to substantially get
rid off most of the PE-error.
The remains will have to be guided out but over all
the performance is pretty good!

--------------------
------------------
Mert
42º49"N 1º38"W
3" Polarex refractor
6" F12 SW Maksutov,CS2-S
EQ6 + EQMOD
SPC900NC/DFK21AU04.AS
My web-page don't laugh, I should make it better!


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Kchula-Rrit
member


Reged: 10/17/07
Posts: 39
Loc: East San Fran Bay Area, Calif.
Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Mert]
      #3455807 - 11/18/09 07:53 PM

Quote:


Just a question, since I see you're using an EQ6.
Are you using EQMOD by any chance?
That way you could add VS-PEC to substantially get
rid off most of the PE-error.
The remains will have to be guided out but over all
the performance is pretty good!


Yes, I am using EQ-MOD but I haven't tried any periodic-error correction. My partner has been advising me to do a periodic-error training but, after watching how it's done on our Meade, I've chickened-out. I'll have to check it out (VS-PEC).

We have a dew-heater coming in the mail, along with the attendant clouds and rain, so it will be a few days.

K-R.

--------------------
Stellarvue Nighthawk Tenth Anniv. (NH7?) - 3-inch Refractor
Stellarvue 2-inch Refractor
1973 Sears Discoverer 3-inch Refractor - "Nemo"
Orion EQ-G Atlas with EQ-MOD - "Charles"
Orion Star-Shoot DSI v1
Meade LPI & DSI


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Kchula-Rrit
member


Reged: 10/17/07
Posts: 39
Loc: East San Fran Bay Area, Calif.
Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Galaxyhunter]
      #3455825 - 11/18/09 08:05 PM

Quote:

You will need a second camera (& guide scope). But yes. this is autoguiding & it will keep your image from shifting as long as you are polar aligned.



That answers my other question. When I check the "Guide" section of the camera-settings menu, then select "settings", or some such, a menu-item said "Camera Settings". When I selected it, it showed the same offset and gain as my "main" camera, an Orion StarShoot DSI version 1. I was hoping it would let me use the Orion, instead of a separate camera. Another post said that the guider exposures are a lot faster than the "main" exposures so it sounds like I'll need a separate camera.

I have a Meade DSI, a Meade LPI, a Meade Electronic Eyepiece with video-capture board. For the guide-scope I was thinking of using my 2-inch refractor.

K-R.

--------------------
Stellarvue Nighthawk Tenth Anniv. (NH7?) - 3-inch Refractor
Stellarvue 2-inch Refractor
1973 Sears Discoverer 3-inch Refractor - "Nemo"
Orion EQ-G Atlas with EQ-MOD - "Charles"
Orion Star-Shoot DSI v1
Meade LPI & DSI


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Jared
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: cdndob]
      #3455884 - 11/18/09 08:52 PM

Quote:

I think most have shown now that guiding through the HC vs the guide port has little or no effect on guiding accuracy. If any small delay is added (milliseconds) it can easily be discounted when compared to the long image capture time (typically 1 to 2 seconds), at least this is what I've read on the subject. Also, I've had no issues guiding through the HC when imaging at modest focal lengths (200-1100 mm).

Steve




Good to know. My (apparently outdated) information was that the delays could be long enough to affect guiding accuracy--in excess of 500ms. Craig Stark even referred to this issue in a presentation he gave on autoguiding at AIC earlier this month. Perhaps he was referring to issues with earlier systems not current models.

--------------------
- Jared Willson
  • A few refractors
  • A couple of GEM's
  • One camera
  • Two eyeballs
  • Some heavily light polluted skies



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Jared
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Kchula-Rrit]
      #3455899 - 11/18/09 09:03 PM

Quote:

Quote:

You will need a second camera (& guide scope). But yes. this is autoguiding & it will keep your image from shifting as long as you are polar aligned.



That answers my other question. When I check the "Guide" section of the camera-settings menu, then select "settings", or some such, a menu-item said "Camera Settings". When I selected it, it showed the same offset and gain as my "main" camera, an Orion StarShoot DSI version 1. I was hoping it would let me use the Orion, instead of a separate camera. Another post said that the guider exposures are a lot faster than the "main" exposures so it sounds like I'll need a separate camera.

I have a Meade DSI, a Meade LPI, a Meade Electronic Eyepiece with video-capture board. For the guide-scope I was thinking of using my 2-inch refractor.

K-R.




As far as I know, the only system that will allow you to use the same chip for both imaging and guiding is the Starlight XPress series. Some of the Starlight cameras will image with even columns while guiding with odd columns. I think you then alternate subexposures so you aren't losing resolution. The advantage to this system is one camera and no guide scope. The disadvantage is double the imaging time to achieve a given exposure.

Most of the SBIG cameras also do not require a separate autoguider because they are really two cameras in one--an imaging chip and a guide chip built into the same camera body. That works quite well as long as you aren't doing narrow band imaging.

Other than that, I believe you always need a second camera (though it can be a small, inexpensive camera--perhaps even your LPI would work!)

A 2 inch refractor should work fine as a guide scope. As long as you are over about 200mm in focal length you should be okay. Guiding software can calculate the star centroid with astonishing precision, so the old rule of thumb that you needed more focal length in your guide scope than in your main scope doesn't apply in the world of autoguiders.

--------------------
- Jared Willson
  • A few refractors
  • A couple of GEM's
  • One camera
  • Two eyeballs
  • Some heavily light polluted skies



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cdndob
professor emeritus


Reged: 07/28/06
Posts: 710
Loc: The Great White North
Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Jared]
      #3456989 - 11/19/09 01:27 PM

Quote:

Quote:

I think most have shown now that guiding through the HC vs the guide port has little or no effect on guiding accuracy. If any small delay is added (milliseconds) it can easily be discounted when compared to the long image capture time (typically 1 to 2 seconds), at least this is what I've read on the subject. Also, I've had no issues guiding through the HC when imaging at modest focal lengths (200-1100 mm).

Steve




Good to know. My (apparently outdated) information was that the delays could be long enough to affect guiding accuracy--in excess of 500ms. Craig Stark even referred to this issue in a presentation he gave on autoguiding at AIC earlier this month. Perhaps he was referring to issues with earlier systems not current models.




When I was starting off autoguiding I remember reading articles from people on both sides, and I think you're right that it might be related to older systems. I think some of the new PDF articles I found (EQMOD people I guessing?) tested both systems and found no real difference. It would be interesting to hear what Craig Stark has to say as I'm sure he's got the latest knowledge and testing information.

Initially I was going to build an ST4 interface but given the new info and that I have a newer mount I tried the HC interface first. So far I haven't had any issues other than ones I caused myself.

Steve

--------------------


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Jared
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: cdndob]
      #3457759 - 11/19/09 08:32 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

I think most have shown now that guiding through the HC vs the guide port has little or no effect on guiding accuracy. If any small delay is added (milliseconds) it can easily be discounted when compared to the long image capture time (typically 1 to 2 seconds), at least this is what I've read on the subject. Also, I've had no issues guiding through the HC when imaging at modest focal lengths (200-1100 mm).

Steve




Good to know. My (apparently outdated) information was that the delays could be long enough to affect guiding accuracy--in excess of 500ms. Craig Stark even referred to this issue in a presentation he gave on autoguiding at AIC earlier this month. Perhaps he was referring to issues with earlier systems not current models.




When I was starting off autoguiding I remember reading articles from people on both sides, and I think you're right that it might be related to older systems. I think some of the new PDF articles I found (EQMOD people I guessing?) tested both systems and found no real difference. It would be interesting to hear what Craig Stark has to say as I'm sure he's got the latest knowledge and testing information.

Initially I was going to build an ST4 interface but given the new info and that I have a newer mount I tried the HC interface first. So far I haven't had any issues other than ones I caused myself.

Steve




Craig's talk was fairly interesting--aimed more at beginning and intermediate imagers than advanced imagers, though, which was a bit surprising given the particular audience at AIC. Still, he clearly knows his stuff and is a good speaker as well. I did learn a bit about what makes for a good guiding setup. The major points he emphasized were:
  • Keep your guide scope and guide camera as light as possible in order to minimize the chance of differential flexure
  • You don't need a high quality guide scope to get good results. Any inexpensive refractor with a focal length of 200mm+ will do fine.
  • The lower noise in a high quality guide camera can offer some small improvements in guiding accuracy, but don't stress about it
  • Don't work at getting focus too good in your guide camera. In fact, slight mis-focus can be beneficial (especially if you are undersampling) since it spreads the light from the guide star across multiple pixels
He also provided some of the history of autoguiding (which is where I picked up my information on the timing issues referenced above). I'm sure there were other salient points as well, but that's what I picked up from the lecture.

--------------------
- Jared Willson
  • A few refractors
  • A couple of GEM's
  • One camera
  • Two eyeballs
  • Some heavily light polluted skies



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Kchula-Rrit
member


Reged: 10/17/07
Posts: 39
Loc: East San Fran Bay Area, Calif.
Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? [Re: Kchula-Rrit]
      #3459931 - 11/21/09 12:46 AM

Well, you have me convinced. Today I sent-off a money order to Shoestring for a GP-USB. Thanks for all the advice.

K-R.

--------------------
Stellarvue Nighthawk Tenth Anniv. (NH7?) - 3-inch Refractor
Stellarvue 2-inch Refractor
1973 Sears Discoverer 3-inch Refractor - "Nemo"
Orion EQ-G Atlas with EQ-MOD - "Charles"
Orion Star-Shoot DSI v1
Meade LPI & DSI


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Patrick
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Kchula-Rrit]
      #3460081 - 11/21/09 06:27 AM

Quote:

A few days ago I noticed the stars starting to move off of the top of the screen during 150-second exposures. There were no trails or oblong stars, but they would change position by a few pixels between subsequent exposures. I had done a drift-alignment, so I figured this "should not happen."




What you're describing sounds less like periodic error and a lot more like field rotation due to polar misalignment. Even though you said you did a drift alignment, I suspect it was not accurate enough. You didn't say what telescope and focal length you are imaging with but I suspect you're using a shorter focal length imaging scope and a camera with decent sized pixels. What's most likely happening is that during your 150 second exposure, you're close enough in your alignment and tracking that stars are not crossing from one pixel to the next to give you noticeable star trails, but the polar misalignment is introducing a slight amount of field rotation which you're seeing as star field movement from frame to frame.

To correct for that you will need to do a more accurate polar alignment which means that you'll need to use a higher power eyepiece and drift align for a little longer period of time. But in reality, if you're not seeing star trails, how important is the field rotation? Stacking the images in your pre-processing software using two star alignment (translate and rotate) will correct for field rotation.

Patrick

--------------------

Celestron CPC 1100 XLT
10" f/6 Truss Tube Newtonian
Celestron C6S-GT SCT
AT66ED Refractor
Canon XSi; Meade DSI;SPC900-NC
Vixen GP2 Photo Guider Mount


My Astronomy Pages
The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of his hands.


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Kchula-Rrit
member


Reged: 10/17/07
Posts: 39
Loc: East San Fran Bay Area, Calif.
Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Patrick]
      #3461658 - 11/22/09 03:31 AM

Quote:

Quote:

A few days ago I noticed the stars starting to move off of the top of the screen during 150-second exposures. There were no trails or oblong stars, but they would change position by a few pixels between subsequent exposures. I had done a drift-alignment, so I figured this "should not happen."




What you're describing sounds less like periodic error and a lot more like field rotation due to polar misalignment. Even though you said you did a drift alignment, I suspect it was not accurate enough. You didn't say what telescope and focal length you are imaging with but I suspect you're using a shorter focal length imaging scope and a camera with decent sized pixels.




I forgot to mention that the telescope is a Stellarvue 80mm Nighthawk aplanat and the camera is an Orion Star-Shoot Deep-Sky v1.

Quote:

To correct for that you will need to do a more accurate polar alignment which means that you'll need to use a higher power eyepiece and drift align for a little longer period of time.



I don't recall seeing the image rotate, just crawled "upward" in the frame as I looked at the files in order of time-stamps. I'll have to take another look at them.

Quote:

But in reality, if you're not seeing star trails, how important is the field rotation? Stacking the images in your pre-processing software using two star alignment (translate and rotate) will correct for field rotation.

Patrick



It bothered me because, during a Really Long Exposure run the object (in this case the Horsehead Nebula) would "crawl" off of the frame. Since I run my telescope remotely I probably would not notice until it was too late. As it was, I only noticed because a nearby "obnoxiously bright" star was no longer in my frame after a while, when I checked the telescope's computer.

As always, any advice or "observations" (pun intended) are appreciated.
K-R.

--------------------
Stellarvue Nighthawk Tenth Anniv. (NH7?) - 3-inch Refractor
Stellarvue 2-inch Refractor
1973 Sears Discoverer 3-inch Refractor - "Nemo"
Orion EQ-G Atlas with EQ-MOD - "Charles"
Orion Star-Shoot DSI v1
Meade LPI & DSI


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Mert
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Kchula-Rrit]
      #3461783 - 11/22/09 07:52 AM

Something more came up into my mind thinking on
using EQMOD.
Is your mount a new one, what firmware version does
the controller board run? ( Not the hand-controller
but the stepper controller ).
You can check that in the message window of EQMOD.
I remember that with a certain version you need to
put the drift-correction on value 3 in order to
keep things centered.
Check the database section in the Y!Eqmod group.
Hope that helps you out!

--------------------
------------------
Mert
42º49"N 1º38"W
3" Polarex refractor
6" F12 SW Maksutov,CS2-S
EQ6 + EQMOD
SPC900NC/DFK21AU04.AS
My web-page don't laugh, I should make it better!


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Patrick
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Re: After drift-aligning, would a guider help? new [Re: Kchula-Rrit]
      #3461840 - 11/22/09 09:02 AM

Quote:

I don't recall seeing the image rotate, just crawled "upward" in the frame as I looked at the files in order of time-stamps. I'll have to take another look at them.




The field rotation is not what you might expect to see in an Alt/Az mount like an SCT that's actually tracking an object and turning it in the view. It's just a very gradual sweep which looks just like what you're describing. That's because you are tracking in RA and the camera is rotating along with the sky. BUT, if you're not accurately polar aligned, the stars will slowly drift out of the view.

When I did drift aligning before Celestron came out with their new All-Star Polar Alignment, I noticed most of the time that I had star field movement. Since using the ASPA, my star fields are pretty stationary.

Quote:

I forgot to mention that the telescope is a Stellarvue 80mm Nighthawk aplanat and the camera is an Orion Star-Shoot Deep-Sky v1.





Short focal length, fairly large pixels... As mentioned, the tracking is good enough not to get star trails because of the focal length and pixel size, but there is a very small element of field rotation that shows up as star field movement.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!

Patrick

--------------------

Celestron CPC 1100 XLT
10" f/6 Truss Tube Newtonian
Celestron C6S-GT SCT
AT66ED Refractor
Canon XSi; Meade DSI;SPC900-NC
Vixen GP2 Photo Guider Mount


My Astronomy Pages
The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of his hands.


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