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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
Reged: 02/15/02
Posts: 12566
Loc: Cumberland, R I , USA42N71.4W
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This is a READ ONLY THREAD CONTAINING LINKS TO INFORMATION for novice and expert alike embedded in binocular forum threads that are diamonds in the deep. Here you will find links to threads that all relate in some way to a primary topic. Consider this like the card catalogue in the Library that will direct you to the proper bookshelf. Comments or discussion of the subject topic should be posted back in the original threads.
ATTENTION: This post is BEST VIEWED IN THREADED MODE (the word FLAT must appear on the upper right flat/threaded button) so you can see the titles of each "Index Card" subject. Once you find your topic enter that post and you will find links to posts related to that subject. There are now over 350 links grouped into about 40 topic index cards. You will waste a lot of time and effort scrolling if you don't first set to threaded mode.
Thanks and Enjoy,
Moderator, edz
Questioning one’s own understanding is probably the hardest question of all.
Edited by EdZ (01/30/07 07:41 PM)
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
Reged: 02/15/02
Posts: 12566
Loc: Cumberland, R I , USA42N71.4W
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What is Twilight Factor?
When looking at specs for binoculars, I see a line item called "Twilight Factor" and it has a number like 16, 18.3, 20.5, etc...
What is this number telling me?
Multiply the magnification by the objective size in millimetres (for example a 12 x 50 = 600)
Then calculate the SQUARE ROOT of this number ( in this case it would be 24.5 )
The HIGHER the Twighlight Factor , in theory at least the BETTER the binocular will perform in POOR or FADING light.
So whilst exit -pupil (arrived at by dividing objective size by magnification --in this example about 4.2) provides increased BRIGHTNESS as it increases, there comes a stage in lighting conditions where increased MAGNIFICATION helps you see things better in darker situations.
Both of these factors, twilight factor and relative brightness are very important --but do not tell the whole story.
ACTUAL brightness and TWILIGHT PERFORMANCE are also affected very much by QUALITY of glass and coatings and optical designs incorporated ( e.g prism types )
So a top quality $1000 10x40 for example may very likely in reality outperform a $100 12x50 in terms of TWILIGHT PERFORMANCE , even though the math would lead you to believe otherwise .
TWILIGHT PERFORMANCE is in my opinion a very important and often under-rated and overlooked factor with binoculars.
Hope this helps - regards -Kenny.
The original thread is at
What is Twilight Factor?
What Is Visibility Index?
Various noted individuals over the years have adopted scales that attempt to represent relative performance of binoculars, based on some ratio of magnification and aperture. Roy Bishop created the Visibility index that is Mag x Aperture. Alan Adler created the Astro Index that is Mag x Sqrt Aperture. EdZ created an index call the Binocular Performance Index (BPI) see CN Reports - Binoculars - How to Understand Binocular Performance (Feb. 2003) that adapted a scale based on the Adler Index (mag x sqrt ap), but then applied factors based on quality (coatings, contrast, polish, light cutoff, etc.). While I have always been a stong supporter of magnifiaction having greatest influence, that can sometimes be very misleading. In my opinion, it is of far greater importance to consider the intended targets and then determine on which (mag or aper) you should place greater emphasis.
However, the brief explanation of how the indices are determined is this:
(For purposes of this discussion, I am assuming all instruments of equal quality. If so, my BPI would give the same comparative result as Adler Index.
Roy Bishop Visiblity Index
20x60 = 1200
15x80 = 1200
Alan Adler Astro Index
20xsqrt60 = 155
15xsqrt80 = 135
this thread discusses the difference between Roy Bishop's Visibility Index and Alan Adler's Binocular Index.
Is aperture king? Does aperture rule?
further discussion on the topic of Indexing
What does the 'Visibility Index' tell you?
this has explanations of when these indices apply and when they do not.
Quote:
this Sky and Tel binocular article ...makes a brief mention of Mr. Bishops article I mentioned. The Observer's Handbook article is much more indepth but contained in the first link is the general idea of his "visibility factor". The second link is his enlarged visibility factor chart from the Sky and Tel article:
http://www2.wwnorton.com/college/astronomy/astro21/sandt/powerbinocs.html
http://www2.wwnorton.com/college/astronomy/astro21/sandt/images/pabin2.gif
Stan
Also see this explanation of Binocular Performance Indexing - BPI
this thread explains it in brief. Following in the footsteps of Bishop and Adler, I developed
Binocular Performance Index, BPI, which is Adler index adjusted for quality.
Alan Adler's article referencing his index can be found here
http://www.weatherman.com/binadler.htm
What the BPI attempts to do is rank binoculars dependant on their performance characteristics. A normal binocular gets no adjustment. The binoculars that exhibit the best attributes, contrast, transmission, lack of aberration, get adjusted up. Binoculars that exhibit some aberrations or are not well corrected for contrast and transmission, get adjusted down.
Premium coatings and full exit pupil light distribution contribute to greater total light transmission. Well corrected lenses, high polished finish, premium baffels and premium coatings and premium eyepieces contribute to lower scatter and high contrast and better resolution. Transmission, Contrast and Resolution (these are related in various ways) are considered attributes that will have an overall additive or deductive contribution to performance. I have arbitrarily assumed to use a factor for two of these that would either contribute or deduct 10% from the overall index. I used Adler Index (mag x sqrt aperture) as the base.
I would rank the BPI of two different binoculars as such:
Nikon SE 12x50
premium coatings, premium baffles, low scatter, high contrast
lack of aberrations, high resolution, high transmission
Bishop = 12 x 50 = 600
Adler = 12 x sqrt 50 = 85
EdZ BPI = 85 +10% for contrast +10% for transmission = 103
Barska 15x70 - Celestron 15x70 - 2002(1st) version Oberwerk 15x70
less than normal coatings, more scatter, lower contrast,
higher than normal aberrations, lower resolution, lower transmission
Bishop = 15 x 70 = 1050
Adler = 15 x sqrt 70 = 125
EdZ BPI = 125 -(minus)10% for contrast -10% for transmission = 100
this article explains it in detail
This study includes explanations of the influence of magnification vs aperture as relates to point sources, (stars in clusters)
How To Understanding Binocular Performance Indexing - a CN Lab Report by EdZ
The testing and methodology that led to develoment of the BPI
Edited by EdZ (02/13/07 05:38 PM)
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
Reged: 02/15/02
Posts: 12566
Loc: Cumberland, R I , USA42N71.4W
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The True field of view of the binocular is equal to the Apparent field of view of the eyepiece divided by the magnification. Tfov = Afov / mag
If the Tfov is given as feet at 1000 yds., then Tfov in degrees is (Tfov in feet at 1000yds) / (1000yds x 3 feet per yd) = radians. Then radians x 57.3° per radian = Tfov in degrees.
If the Tfov is given as degrees then the Tfov in feet at 1000 is (Tangent Fov degrees) x 3000 = Fov in feet at 1000 yds.
Binocular Tfov Conversion Tables
given the measure usually printed on your binoc, i.e. 51M at 1000M, look up your field of view here.
But not all binoculars will actually measure what is specified or what is printed on the binocular. In fact many do not. So if you want to know the actual real field of view, measure it in the field by observing a star field.
A useful list for Binocular Observer's is this one with many star fields measured so you can determine the actual True Field of View of your binoculars
How To Measure TFOV Of Binoculars
Nice collection of constellation charts with separations printed on the charts is here
Stellar Separations for Determining Field of View
Chart of Sagitarius
Chart of Leo
Chart of Lyra
Southern Stellar Separations for Determining Field
Chart of Ara
Chart of Musca
Chart of Crux
Chart of Triangulum Australe
Bino FOV Circle templates for a wide selection of charts
Wide-angle binoculars can have narrow Afov eyepieces and Narrow angle binoculars can have wide Afov eyepieces. Except at the narrowest and widest extremes of True field of view, there is no standard rule you can follow.
Some binoculars do not actually measure in the field what is stated for Tfov. Usually the higher cost premium binoculars do measure as stated.
Half of all binoculars I measured have Afov eyepieces between 60° and 65°. They cross a range from narrow to wide True field of view. There are some but few wider eyepieces in use.
What may seem like a narrow 4° field of view at one power would be wide for a 15x or 16x binocular. A 3.5° field of view would be wide for a 20x binocular. On the other hand, a True field of view less than 3.0° seems narrow for ANY binocular.
Some wide Afov eyepieces have excellent performance. Fujinon 16x70 and Oberwerk 15x70 use 64° Afov eyepieces and are sharp to 80%+ Tfov. In comparison, Orion Giant 16x80 uses a much narrower 53° Afov eyepiece and its sharpness characteristics are poor in the outer 40% Tfov.
Some 8x binoculars with a 6.5° field of view may be considered the low end of a wide True field of view for that power binocular. This Tfov is produced with a 52-53° Afov eyepiece, not considered a wide Afov eyepiece. They are sharp to 80% of the True field of view.
Most of the 22x and 25x binoculars on the market are advertised as 3.0° Tfov, but are measuring less than stated. If any 22x or 25x binoculars measure over 3.0° Tfov, they are using eyepieces with Afov approx. 66° to 75°.
You will find that your eyes are not capable of seeing the edges of the filed in eyepieces with an apparent field of view greater than 65° to 70°. Some binoculars advertise 'eyepieces with 80° apparent filed of view.' Well the eye simply cannot use all that at once. The eye has limitations and generally for most people that falls in a range between 60° and 70°.
edz
Apparent Field of View vs. True Field of View
Original thread Confusion with Field of view Differences
Find more info at
Original Thread Apparent FOV vs True FOV
A lengthy explanation of True field of view and Apparent field of view resides in this thread. A selection of the main points pasted here:
Q
I've done a search on FOV and still don't really understand the differences between real TFOV and apparent AFOV.
As a more specific example, Pentax have two roof prism binoculars with specs as follows:
Pentax DCF SP 8x42 (TFOV 6.3 degrees, AFOV 50.4 degrees)
Pentax DCF SP 10x42 (TFOV 6.0 degrees, AFOV 60 degrees)
How does the 10x42 which has a narrower True FOV end up with an Apparent FOV greater than the 8x42? Does this mean a wider visual view through the binoculars (i.e. more sky)?
A
The narrower TFOV means it will see less sky. The apparent AFOV relates to the width of the image generated by the eyepieces. Dividing that by the magnification of the complete instrument yields the true TFOV in terms of actual degrees of arc of sky that will be displayed.
A
In your example the Pentax 8 x 42 has (TFOV)R.F.O.V. of 6.3 degrees
This is more usually described as TRUE field of view(TFOV)
What does 6.3 degrees actually mean ?
One degree can also be expressed as 52.4 feet / 1000 yards
Or as 17.4 metres / 1000 metres
What this means is that if you looked through a binocular with a ( very narrow )one degree TFOV , then at a distance of exactly 1000 yards from where you were standing you would only be able to see a stretch of land or object that was 52.4 feet wide . Anything wider than that would be out of the area which you can see through the binocular.
Or , to convert to metric measures , if you looked through the same binocular , then at a distance of 1000 metres from where you were standing , you would only be able to see a stretch of land or object that measured 17.4 metres wide.
So with a 6.3 degree TFOV , to get the equivalent figure in feet per 1000 yards or in metres per kilometre , you would multiply the figures quoted above by 6.3.
So at 1000 yards you would be able to see a stretch expanding 6.3 x 52.4 which = around 330 feet at 100 yards
In metric , 6.3 x 17.4 = around 109m per 1000m.
The Apparant Field of View simply means the TFOV as described above MULTIPLIED by the MAGNIFICATION.
So a 10 x 50 with a 5 degree TFOV provides a 50 degree AFOV
In this case , knowing the requirement is for a 5 degree TFOV with a 10 x power factor , the lens designer selects what is universally accepted as a 50 degree eyepiece of focal length sufficient to provide 10x magnification within that binocular system.
Thus is why telescope eyepieces are always described by their APPARENT field of view rather than by their TRUE field of view.
For example a plossl e.p usually offers around 50 - 52 degrees AFOV whereas a Televue Nagler can offer as wide as 82 degrees AFOV .
The True fields of views offered by such e.ps in a telescope depends on the focal length of the telescope which in turns affects magnification.
The greater the magnification the narrower the TFOV and the lesser the magnification the wider the TFOV.
A TFOV that would be considered annoyingly narrow for say a 10x binocular( for example 4 degrees TFOV )only really appears so because the AFOV would be only 40 degrees ,arrived at by multiplying 10 x 4 .
However if you had say a 16x binocular with a TFOV of "only" 4 degrees -- the AFOV would be 64 degrees(16 x 4), and as such would appear to be perfectly acceptable because the extra magnification is making up for the narrow field.
What is an "acceptable" AFOV depends very much on individual choice and experience. One can and often does "get used to" a particular AFOV.
Kenny
Edited by EdZ (05/18/08 08:15 AM)
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
Reged: 02/15/02
Posts: 12566
Loc: Cumberland, R I , USA42N71.4W
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Also read
Affect of Eye Pupil on Binocular Aperture
Exit Pupil is the beam of light exiting out thru the eyepieces. The diameter of that beam can be found by dividing objective diameter size by magnification. Larger Exit Pupil provides increased BRIGHTNESS. But there are some very important points for consideration.
exit pupil 7mm vs 5mm
If you have a 7mm eye pupil then you get all the light from say a 7x50. But if your eye pupil does not get that large, and many don't, then the effective aparture that you are getting out of the binocular is reduced. So, a person with a 6mm eye pupil, when using a 7x50, it actually only getting 7x42. A person with a 5mm eye pupil is getting effectively a 7x35.
7mm exit puplis will provide a much brighter image than a 5mm exit pupil, BUT ONLY IF you have very very dark skies. Then you would have good contrast. But if you have any amount of light pollution, let's say you have mag 5 skies or worse yet mag 4 skies, then that large 7mm exit pupil may work against you. The brighter sky background will be brighter in the binocular with a 7mm exit pupil and it will tend to wash out the contrast for all objects. In this case a 5mm exit pupil might be better.
I would seldom recommend a 7x50 binocular to anyone as it is a specialty binocular far more affected by limitations of exit pupil and sky conditions and in most instances will not perform as it was intended.
I would never recommend a 7mm exit pupil 7x50 as a first astronomy binocular.
edz
Several threads have embedded discussions on exit pupil. Following are discussions and links to the original threads.
One question that a beginner often asks about is exit pupils. There is so much talk about exit pupils that it can be thoroughly mind-boggling. This primer will set you on the right path. When you begin to yearn for more information visit the Best Of link dedicated to exit pupil.
Binocular Primer - An explanation of Exit Pupil, Eye relief and Field of View
Another member asked "I think these (7x50 celestron ultima) are great binoculars...BUT... I find they amplify sky glow or produce it? ... Is this because of the rather large exit pupil(7.1mm)? I don't see this glow in my 15x70's and I'm guessing that it's because of the 4.4mm exit pupil or the higher magnification."
Exit Pupil Affects the Performace of Your Binocular - Make the Right Choice
This discussion took place here several years ago.
Q
Is the difference between a 5mm and 7mm exit pupil really that significant (I've been looking at the Pentax 7x50 PCF WP's)? The 7x50's give a much wider FOV (324ft/1000yds vs. 261ft/1000yds), which I would think is more important for bino star gazing...Am I missing something fundamental here?
A
Generations of binocular designers who have forgotten more about optics than I will ever know can surely not all be wrong or stupid to have designed so many 7 x 50 , 8 x 56 , 9 x 63 , 10 x 70 and 11 x 80 binoculars over so many years.
"Accepted theory" seems to indicate that, generally speaking, people over around 50 years of age have maximum pupil dilation of only around 5mm in darkness. I bravely pronounce that this assumption is somewhat flawed if not complete poppycock. A noted regular contributor to this wonderful site, let alone forum , who is over the age of 50 , has recently had his dilated pupils measured at 7mm --and that not in COMPLETELY dark -adapted circumstances .
There may well be very good arguments that a binocular with an exit pupil as large as 7mm is performing nowhere near it's maximum potential , but that is not to say that the same binocular will not provide a much more "bright, easy and comfortable" image than would the same (aperture) with higher power eyepieces.
Because terms such as "brightness" "ease of view" and "comfort" have no measurable units, they are unlikely to stand-up well in any technical tug of war against the advantages of higher power (and thus smaller exit pupils) that CAN be measured in the very significant and universally accepted and very real properties of contrast and resolution.
So it is the old argument of "swings and roundabouts" , another example of the fact that no matter how good any particular binocular is for any specific intended purpose, there is always a compromise.
When you gain in power you lose in brightness and field of view, when you gain wider fields of view you tend to lose "flatness" -- a desired quality for stargazing.
Another "con" of a large exit pupil is that it amplifies any human eye astigmatism , making it virtually impossible for anyone with such afflictions and NOT wearing glasses or lenses to correct it, to attain "crisp ,sharp, clear" images , which again are terms not to be found in an optics expert's vocabulary but which are more "artistic" terms ... intended to convey just about EVERYTHING desirable about a magnified image.
I happen to prefer very wide fields of view with hand-holdable low power and "easy to see with " 6mm exit pupils, which is why I wouldn't swap my Zeiss 7 x 42 for any binocular in that size or price range.
All this said , I would estimate that 90% of the time a 5mm exit pupil is ENOUGH IF NOT TOO MUCH for binocular astronomy pleasure and performance.
Regards -Kenny.
Tom,
First, if you do not have eye pupils that dilate beyond 5mm, then 7mm exit pupil does you no good. [With the Exception that Larger exit pupils do make it much easier for your eyes to acquire and hold the image]. But if you do have eye pupils that dilate beyond 5mm, then there are applications where the 7mm exit pupil will show greater performance. That is primarily on broad diffuse extended objects. But only if you can get to dark enough skies.
What do you give up to get 7mm exit pupils? Image size. But if the image is broad and diffuse, do you need a larger image scale? Maybe not.
The binocular that would be best for broad diffuse extended objects is not the same binocular that would be best for most other objects. For most everything else, a higher magnification (that produces a smaller exit pupil) provides a larger image and a bit deeper limiting magnitude that allows seeing more. More stars in wide-open clusters, more resolved stars in dense clusters, a little bit more definition in doubles.
All that is probably why many of us own more than one binocular. Kenny even has his terrestrial favorites, I my backpacking favorites.
It's not all in the exit pupil either. A higher contrast, sharper image from a smaller exit pupil can exceed an image from a larger exit pupil if not from an equally high quality binocular.
My 16x70s exceed my 15x70s and my 10x70s.
My 12x50s exceed my 10x50s.
But in either case not in field of view. However, fov can lose some of its relative importance if the image is considerably better.
edz
More Info can be found at:
Original Discussion Embedded in Thread "Nikon 10 X 50 Cf Action Vi Binoculars"
EXIT PUPILS
Q
Are large aperture, low mag binoculars pointless?
It seems that large aperture, low mag. binoculars are wasteful. What is the reason for their creation if the extra aperture serves virtually no purpose?
(Would I be better off using my brother's 15x45 binos... or at least be just as well served by a pair of 11x50's because the other 20mm of aperture are wasted?)... Please explain this to me...
A
Binoculars that provide very large exit pupils are designed with maximum brightness in mind. That is, they will deliver the maximum bright image of faint diffuse objects. This is a benefit when viewing faint diffuse nebula or large comet tails or the extended arms of galaxies like M31, M33 and M101, things of that nature.
For almost all objects other than faint diffuse objects, magnification provides greater benefit. Magnification allows you to see deeper in magnitude, putting more stars in the field. This is a benefit in open clusters and star fields like the M24 star cloud or even scanning the Milky Way.
Magnification also provides larger image scale that allows you to see objects that otherwise would have been too small for the eyes to perceive.
Remember, a larger objective gathers more light, allowing you to see faint extended objects. A larger exit pupil delivers a brighter image to the eye, again helpful for faint extended objects. Magnification is what allows you to see most small detail.
Whether large aperture low power binoculars are the right choice in binoculars depends very much on what you intend to use them for.
edz
More Info can be found at:
Embeded in the Original Thread "Are large aperture, low mag binoculars pointless"
A good point is made here;
There would appear to be a popular misconception , even amongst experienced binocular users , that an exit pupil from a binocular that is greater than the dilation of the human eye -pupil , is completely "wasted".
There are two very good reasons why a binocular benefits from having exit -pupils greater than diameter of the eye pupil.
1.Avoids the necessity for setting the IPD perfectly, and then the need to perfectly center your eyes to the exit pupils.
2. Permits your eyes to swivel in their sockets, without losing the image, as the iris of your eye slides off to one side as you look toward the edge of the field of the binoculars.
However
For a 10x70 binocular with a 7mm exit pupil, if your maximum dilated eye pupil is 6mm, then light gathering thru the binocular will be determined as if deleivered by a 10x6mm eye pupil = 60mm effective aperture.... Resolution will be determined as if delivered by 70mm x (6mmeye pupil/7mm exit pupil) = 60mm lens, same as light gathering. In general, if your eye pupil does not dilate as wide as the exit pupil of the binocular, your eye effectively reduces the aperture of the binocular.
More info can be found at
Original discussion in thread "Relation: aperture-mag when view extended objects"
Edited by EdZ (06/17/07 07:16 AM)
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
Reged: 02/15/02
Posts: 12566
Loc: Cumberland, R I , USA42N71.4W
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Before you decide to go ahead and purchase a ZOOM binocular, please read this bit of advice:
Noted Repair Shop Caution on Zoom Binoculars
Then you can read these various posts by some owners
Zoom binoculars (at a reasonable power/aperture ratio) would be a wonderful thing to use if some manufacturer could overcome the basic design flaws of zooms: narrow FOV, dim images, and collimation problems.
My Nikon 8-16X40 XL Zoom is the best zoom I've seen, very sharp optics almost to the edge of the 5.2* FOV (wide for a zoom). However, when comparing it back to back with other good quality binoculars at 8X, 10X, and 15X, the XL Zoom is somewhat dimmer. This may be in part due to the smaller exit pupil (e.g., 2.6mm at 15X vs. 4.6mm for a 15X70), but probably mainly due to inherent light loss of the zoom lens since they are also dimmer, though less so, at 8X and 10X.
Despite this flaw, having the ability to "dial up" the right magnification for the object you want to view is a very nice feature. I'm not sure if aspherical lens technology, better coatings, etc. could overcome the inherent design flaws of zoom bins, but if they could be designed as good or even nearly as good as fixed power bins, they would surely be the most popular bins on the market.
Until then, the Nikon XL Zoom is probably the best compromise possible. The new dual power Leica Duovids look very promising, but are very pricey and heavy for handheld use. If anyone has used one of them (8+12X42) or 10+15X50), please post a review. Thanks.
Brock
See the entire discussion at
100x zoom bino's
I have a Nikon 8-16X40 XL Zoom, and it's great for astronomy, particularly from a light polluted site where smaller exit pupils are needed to increase contrast. It's also good for birding/wildlife observation (close focus 15'). Unlike many zooms it has a fairly wide true FOV (5.2*), which translates to a 83* AFOV at 16X. Of course, the exit pupil at 16X is 2.5, so the views are a little dim at the extreme. The best views are between 10 - 14X. The XL Zooms have very sharp multicoated optics, a bit sharper than my nikon 10X35E2, but with a flatter field, and sharp almost to the very edge.
The XL Zoom weighs 30 oz., less than a 10X50 Ultraview
The XL Zooms are discontinued, but a few companies (hotbuys, for example) still sell them for just under $600.
See the entire discussion at
Anybody using zoom binos?
Check out the previous thread on zooms "Anybody using zoom binos?" started by Tom Trusock. I posted comments about my Nikon 8-16X40 XL Zooms.
I've seen other zooms, and didn't like them, always cheap, dim, small FOV, and not sharp. The XLs are the exception to the rule, however, they DO suffer from miscolimation at close focus.
The alternative type of multiple power bin is the Duovid (8 + 12X42) and (10+15X50). They have two powers instead of a whole range. I haven't heard any rave reviews about them yet, but they're fairly new and VERY expensive so not many people probably have them. However, from reading about them, I think they represent a better alternative to zooms.
See the entire discussion at
Barska 12-60 X 70mm Zoom Binos
See also this thread
Zoom Binoculars for less than $150
Note these comments by various posters. The thread link follows.
note that zoom binoculars usually have a lower FOV then fixed magnifactions. They are however very helpful if these will be your main viewing tool.
Generally, zoom binoculars, although they provide a neat feature, are considered inferior to fixed mag binocs. One thing is for sure, if they go out of allignment, they are nearly impossible to get back in, even by the guys in the shops.
I've not tried the 10 -30 x 60s but although the specs may sound quite reasonable there are always severe limitations with field of view with all zooms I've tried.
See the entire discussion at this thread
Yeah, size matters... but what ELSE does?
Barska 12-36X70 zooms (mini-equipment report)
-------------------- Teach a kid something today. The feeling you'll get is one of life's greatest rewards.
member#21
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
Reged: 02/15/02
Posts: 12566
Loc: Cumberland, R I , USA42N71.4W
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PHASE COATING
Phase coating is special coating and is added to the prisms ONLY in roof prism binoculars to PREVENT destructive interference, actually referred to as constructive interference. Since roof prisms may have on surface that is below th angle of total interanl reflection they have one surface covered with a reflective mirror like material. Somewhere along the light path in the prism, the light has the potential to get out-of-phase. Phase coatings are applied to correct this problem. This is intended to act differently than anti-reflection coatings and is intended to improve the performance of the roof prisms. Standard porro prism binoculars do not use phase coating.
Links to articles on Phase Coating
See this thread discussion where Holger Mmerlitz explains phase correction and provides links for further study
Resolution and Phase Correction
All the remaining discussion here will refer to Antireflection (AR) coatings.
ANTIREFLECTION COATING
Coatings are added to porro prisms and lenses to improve the light transmission of the glass. Also they add destructive interference to cancel out the light reflected off the surfaces. This helps eliminate reflectance and ghost images, a desirable result in lenses and roof prisms, improving contrast.
An uncoated lens surface can reflect 4% of the light hitting it. Magnesium Flouride (MgF) single coating can reduce that reflected light to 1.5%. Properly applied multicoatings can reduce that reflectance to 0.5% or 0.25% per lens surface. Improperly applied multicoatings may do no better than, or not even as good as, good single coatings.
A binocular may have as many as 14 lens surfaces. With the exception of extremely high level of performace of some superior coatings, even a properly muticoated binocular can transmit at best only about 93% to 96% of incoming light. The same binocular with all 14 surfaces only single coated with MgF may transmit only 79% of the light.
Coatings are a very important product in the transmission of light. In this age of products, no one should purchase binoculars that have uncoated surfaces.
Color provides no clear indication of the quality of coatings. There are a variety of chemicals used to develop multi-coatings. Pentax SMC coatings appear purple or rose. Orion Ultraview coatings appear blue/green/purple, depending on what angle you look at them. Some Nikon coatings have a yellowish tinge to them. Single layer MgF coatings appear blue and if applied properly can be better than improperly (too thick) applied multi-coatings. Coatings that are applied too thick can appear bright green.
See this discussion for an explanation of the colors you see reflected from the coatings.
Prisms and Coatings - Differences
Generally, plain blue coatings is an indication of a single coated MgF surface. While MgF coatings are not bad, and in some instances may be better than multicoated (poorly applied) surfaces (ie. compared to the very green coatings mentioned below), single coated surfaces do reflect more light, reduce transmission and may cause internal reflections. I see more internal reflections (ghost images) in my single coated MgF binoculars than any other type of multi-coated binocular.
Coatings that have a multi-hue, blue-green, green-purple, blue-purple, purple-rose, purple-amber, can all be indications of properly applied coating. In this case, a comparison of reflections off the coatings may give some indication of reflected light and hence transmitted light. Generally, these are what I see on better binoculars.
Green coatings, especially very green coatings, may be an indication of a misapplication of the coatings during the process. Phil Harrington has been giving this advice for well over a decade. In order for coatings to work properly, they must be a precise thickness. The precision of the thickness of the coatings is measured in nanometers. Coatings that are applied too thick often end up appearing bright green in color. While the coating surface itself may appear to reflect very little light, the coatings are not performing as antireflection coatings were intended to perform. They may in fact be canceling out portions or certain wavelengths of light, allowing less light to get thru.
It is not uncommon at all to compare binoculars and find a pair with bright green coatings that simply cannot see as much light as another pair, which for all intent and purposes should produce the same result, but by virtue of better coatings can see several tenths of a magnitude deeper. Just to get a better understanding of the importance of the small fractions of magnitudes, a gain of 0.75 magnitude is approximately a 100% increase in total light.
Web Article on Coating Colors
A better indicator than color of the quality of antireflection coatings may be any reflections you can see when looking into them. It is difficult to see any reflections at all in Fujinon coatings. Look into the objectives of an Oberwerk BT100 binocular telescope and you will barely see the outline of your head. You will not see any detail in the reflected image of your face. Look into a binocular with lesser quality coatings and you may be able to see your full reflection in color with detail in your face. Any light you can see reflected coming back off the lens is not passing thru the lens. Premium AR coatings should minimize this reflected light.
You can also shine a flashlight into the objective lens of your binocular and you will see 6 or 8 reflections of the flashlight. Although this will not indicate the quality of the coatings, expect at least to see all colored reflections. White reflections may indicate uncoated glass surfaces. (Note - a cemented doublet objective may produce a white reflection as the two surfaces that are cemented together act as continuous glass and need not be coated). In this age of astronomy, no one should be observing with uncoated lenses.
Here's a simple test to compare Coatings from one model to another
Look for reflections in the coatings
Importance and value of coatings
Nikon 12x50SE coatings vs. Fujinon 10x70 FMT-SX
Coatings compared on a dozen different binoculars
Coatings differences on different models of Pentax binoculars
Q
I would make sure (binocular)are fully multicoated (oberwerk calls them broadband coatings: what ... is that!?).
A
As regards "Broadband Coatings" I asked the same question to Kevin at BigBinoculars.com recently and here was his reply :
Astromart Forums: Astro Binoculars
Re: Broadband coatings
Posted by Kevin Busarow on 4/8/2003 3:43:23 PM
Same question came up in the Binocular Astronomy Yahoo group a while back, and here's what I wrote-
======================================================
Broadband is a multilayer coating (5-7 layers) that has minimal reflectivity (.2% to .5%) across a very wide (broad) range (band) of the spectrum (450nm to 750nm). It's simply the best anti-reflection multi-coating the Chinese manufacturers can do with the equipment they have.
Common MgF2 coatings average 1.3% to 1.5% reflectivity across the same range. While the difference in efficiency with better multi-coatings is small, because binoculars have many air-to-glass surfaces, broadband on every surface (fully broadband multi-coated) can significantly improve overall light transmission. There is also a degree of improvement in contrast, as less light is scattered at each surface. You won't find this level of multicoating on the least expensive Chinese binoculars simply because of the time it takes to do the multiple layers. Some Oberwerk models have this level of multicoating now,
and all models will have it as new stock is received.
Kevin Busarow
Read the Manufacturers Explanation of levels of Coatings
see the embedded discussion at this thread
Anybody using zoom binos
While smaller exit pupils will certainly increase contrast, and as an added bonus compensate for eye aberrations, coatings are very important too. Although the 8X32 SE has a larger exit pupil than the 10X35 E2 (4mm vs. 3.5mm), the "superior" coatings help admit more light and hence help provide better contrast. Similarly, the contrast in my 15X70 '03 Oberwerk is better than my 20X80 Burgess though the exit pupil is larger (4.6mm vs. 4mm), because the Obies have better coatings.
See this discussion at the following thread
Performance of 8.5x44 vs 9x63 vs 10x50?
Q
I bought the Oberwerk 15x70 this year. Is their any obvious visual differences between the 2002 and 2003 models? I would like to know for certain if mine are the 2003 model.
A
The most obvious outwardly noticeable difference is in the coatings. The '02 model has only blue coatings on the eyepieces. The '03 model has the same coatings on the eyepieces as it does on the objectives and it gives off a green/purple color.
A
There is a significant difference in the coatings between the Oberwerk 2002 and 2003 models. While I had noted the 02 model has the most reflections off the lenses of various binoculars I was testing at the time, the new 03 model has significantly less reflections off the objective lenses. At the eye lens, the 02 models appears to be single MgF coated and the 03 model seems to have the same multicoating as the objective.
The overall view thru the new 03 model seems to be noticably brighter than the older 02 model. Viewing around the area of the Cygnus Milky Way, there was more and brighter faint star background visible in the new 03 model.
See the entire thread at
Oberwerk 15x70 2002 vs 2003
I check the coatings in my binoculars on the Moon by looking for reflections inside. If there are reflections, then the coatings arn't so great.
See this post for why you may not be able to tell very much about the coatings by Observing internal reflections of the moon
Edited by EdZ (02/16/07 07:02 AM)
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
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Aperture / Magnification relationship in binocs
Most recently, this discussion took place touching on all aspects of the above mentioned topic. This thread may be best read in it's entirety.
Comment about Exit Pupil Size
Numerous other threads have discussion related to the same topics.
Are large aperture, low mag binoculars pointless?
See the following comments from some of our forum participants:
It seems that large aperture, low mag. binoculars are wasteful. What is the reason for their creation if the extra aperture serves virtually no purpose?
(Would I be better off using my brother's 15x45 binos... or at least be just as well served by a pair of 11x50's because the other 20mm of aperture are wasted?)... Please explain this to me...
I’ve have come to the conclusion that with binoculars, like everything else in life, it all boils down to compromise. From my …experience I’d have to say that large aperture/low mag binocs are most definitely NOT pointless, they just fill another niche. ... it depends on what your going to use them for.
whilst neither low mag nor large aperture binoculars are remotely "pointless" both categories DEFINITELY have their place in the pleasures of astronomy, unless you are viewing from an exceptionally desirable, non light polluted site, then the combination of LARGE (70mm +) AND LOW power (<12x) would seem to make little sense to me.
when you increase the magnification the image gets a little dimmer so if you are looking at some of the larger nebulae in dark skies the 11x is probably more appropriate.
See the complete comments at this location
Are large aperture, low mag binoculars pointless?!
Masking a Binocular Aperture
Does aperture rule in bino land?
masking is one way to see the effects of aperture vs magnification. This post has a discussion related to some of those effects.
Also refer to the article
How to Understand Binocular Performance
Binoculars that provide very large exit pupils (large aperture-low mag) are designed with maximum brightness in mind. That is, they will deliver the maximum bright image of faint diffuse objects. This is a benefit when viewing faint diffuse nebula or large comet tails or the extended arms of galaxies like M31, M33 and M101, things of that nature.
For almost all objects other than faint diffuse objects, magnification provides greater benefit. It allows you to see deeper in magnitude, putting more stars in the field. This is a benefit in open clusters and star fields like the M24 star cloud or even scanning the Milky Way.
Magnification also provides larger image scale that allows you to see objects that otherwise would have been to small for the eyes to perceive.
Most people will argue that the size of the objective lens is what determines the resolution, and yes this is true. But how much of that resolution the eye can see is dependant on how large the resolved image is magnified. Just about every binocular objective size provides more than enough resolution for the eyes. Without sufficient magnification, the eye will not see what has been resolved.
Take an example of an observer with acuity that allows seeing objects as separated when they are magnified to an apparent size of 150 arcseconds. When viewing an object like M36 using 15x binocs, stars that are as close to each other as 10 arcsec will be seen as separate objects. The same observer using 11x binocs will not be able to see stars only 10 arcsec apart as separate objects, they will appear as one. Hence, 11x will not resolve as many stars in M36.
Remember, a larger objective gathers more light, allowing you to see faint extended objects. A larger exit pupil delivers a brighter image to the eye, again helpful for faint extended objects. Magnification is what allows you to see most small detail.
Also, increases in magnification show more stars. If you used 10x, 12x and 15x binoculars on the same star field, you would see 25-50% more stars with the 12x and another 25-50% more again with the 15x. If you tried to get the same star magnitude gains by increasing aperture and keeping power constant, the size increases over 50mm would quickly make the aperture diameter prohibitive.
Whether large aperture low power binoculars are the right choice in binoculars depends very much on what you intend to use them for.
Relation: aperture-mag when view extended objects
In my 15x70mm Binoculars I know that I can see more stars than a smaller pair, but what about things other than stars?
Suppose I'm looking at M42 with my 15x70's. I assume that magnification doesn't matter too much as it's already pretty big, aperture big enough to match the magnification is more important. I will rate the 'brightness' of M42 through this pair of binoculars as 1.
Now suppose I use a pair of 7x50's. I had thought that these couldn't compare to the 15x70mm's, but now I'm not so sure. If I was to look at M42, it would look smaller, but also stand out more, right? I'm only getting half as much light as I was with the 70mm lenses, but I'm also only magnifying it to have an area about 1/4 the area of the 15x70's. So I would give these a brightness rating of 2. Which is twice as good as the 15x70's.
I know that the bigger image scale does make up for the dimmer view somewhat, but how much does this matter?
There's a lot of factors that determine whether an object will stand out more in a lower power larger aperture binocular.
The larger aperture has greater light gathering ability.
Image scale has a lot to do with whether you can see detail in an object or not.
Extended objects, especially faint diffuse objects benefit from greater aperture.
In binoculars, even globular clusters and dense open clusters can be considered extended objects. These will benefit much more from larger image scale provided by magnification.
I've seen the North America nebula with my 15x70s. I've never seen it with my 10x50s. Assume viewing a 1 arcminute square. If you consider the amount of light gathered spread over the area of the magnified image, then the 15x70s vs 10x50s gather 1.96x the light (70x70=4900 vs 50x50=2500, so 4900/2500=1.96) and they spread it over an area 2.25x as large (15x15=225 vs 10x10=100, so 225sqarcmin/100sqarcmin=2.25x). If 1.96x the light is spread over 2.25x the area, you would think the 15x70s would make it more difficult to see, but that is not the case. Larger image scale can sometimes make it easier to see faint light.
edz
Read the full response at this post
Relation: aperture-mag when view extended objects?
EXIT PUPILS
I wanted to test the difference between two perfectly matched binoculars, but with one variable, exit pupil. I tested 16x70 Fujinons and it's twin, the Fujinon 10x70. Not identical twins, but sure from the same family. These two binoculars share exactly the same everything except the eyepieces. So, only power, and hence exit pupil, are different (and fov, but not important here).
Think of the sky as the backdrop in a portrait. Your subject must stand out from the backdrop to be seen. Consider it to be a grey scale. You all understand the affect of dark sky background. Higher magnification in a telescope reduces the extended light of the background until it approaches a completely dark sky, to the point you can no longer see the field stop. Lower magnification with a larger exit pupil delivers more light, not only from your subject, but also from the background. This can be beneficial or detrimental, depends on the condition. Generally, this makes it much more difficult to see the subject, unless you are viewing under very dark skies.
In moderate 4.5-5.5 skies, 10x70s show a background about three or 4 shades brighter on the grey scale than what is delivered by 16x70s. With a 7mm exit pupil, there is so much light coming into the eyes from the extended sky background, it makes it more difficult to see anything and everything. The 16x70s provide such a contrasty view against the darker backdrop, the contrast gain from the higher magnification of the 16x70s was far reaching and unmistakable. These are exactly the same binocular, so the only improvement in grey scale background most definitely comes only from the increase in magnification, and hence a smaller exit pupil.
But on one night, I did get both binocs out under mag6+ skies. Since the sky was already so dark, the backdrop in the 10x70s did not appear so much brighter than the 16x70s. Much more could be seen with the 10x70s in a darker sky than in the bright sky. Faint nebula stood out now that they were being used in their productive element. On this night the difference between the two was not nearly as great. The 16x70s still see more, but on the faintest nebula, the 10x70s did very well.
My point is not to say one is better than the other. For me, in most conditions, the 16x70s will perform better. But those 10x70s, under the darkest skies I can get to, would be just the tool to observe extended objects and deliver that "finishing" light to my eyes. They have their place. But used in the wrong circumstances, they are no match for the right tool.
Every tool has it's purpose.
edz
Exit Pupil, Large or Small
sure...more magnification means more diffusion of the extended object's light, but I'm asking about the explicit relationship between exit pupil and brightness, not magnification and brightness per se. yes, these are related, but they're not the same thing (keep in mind that two different scopes/binos can give you a different exit pupil for the same magnification...or the same exit pupil with different magnifications).
If we were looking at a white diffuse surface with equal instruments except for exit pupil diameters, the one with the larger exit pupils would have a brighter image. One of the big issues with large exit pupils is that under light-polluted skies they transmit the light pollution as well as the celestial objects. The claim is that smaller exit pupils yield more contrast by reducing the impact of the light pollution
In order to determine the brightness of a view through a binocular you not only need to know the exit pupil size, but also the AFoV. A binocular with a larger exit pupil doesn't *always* give more light to the observer.
Well, not according to the official definitions I've read.
AFOV has nothing to do with image brightness. You are confusing the image formed in your eye with the exit pupil. The exit pupil is simply the image of the effective aperture of the system.
How much light a system transmits is related to its effective focal ratio. If you change the magnification of a system, you also change the effective focal ratio. This has nothing to do with spreading light - sky glow has the same luminance value whether you measure a tiny area or a whole slab.
Lets see how this works. We will use telescopes because we can change the eyepice. The OTA has a printed focal ratio. The brightness of the aerial image formed is dictated by the focal ratio of the scope. An eyepiece will be used to make an image we can see - in astrophotography this is known as afocal projection but using a camera rather than an eye.
The effective focal ratio of the system = OTA focal ratio X eyepice projection magnification.
The eyepiece projection magnification = the eye's focal length / eyepiece focal length.
As you can see, the magnification increases as the eyepiece focal length deceases. And with the first equation, the systems focal ratio increases with the magnification. Using shorter focal length eyepieces increases the effective focal ratio of the system and makes darker images. As the focal ratio increases, the exit pupil deceases.
Light output is not controlled by field of view. If I use an eyepiece in my scope that produces a 3mm exit pupil, it doesn't matter if that eyepiece has a 50° Afov or a 68° Afov, the light output is exactly the same. I just get the same light output over a wider area.
So in effect the view is being dimmed by having a wider AFoV? If you were to somehow block off the edge in the 68 degree AFoV so that all I see is 50 degrees I would assume light output is decreased so that it is less than the orginal 50 degree view?
Again, Light output is not controlled by Field of View.
What is "image brightness"? Can anyone give a clear definition?
several links to sites
One definition of "Image Brightness"
The apparent luminance of the image as seen through an optical system. This brightness is determined by the brightness of the object, the transmittance and the diameter of the exit pupil of the system.
Take a specific magnification, say
10. Then in relation to that, the larger objectives (gathering
more light) yield larger exit pupils:
10x30 = 3
10x50 = 5
10x70 = 7
So the brightness is directly expressed by the exit pupil: the
ratio of light-gathering to magnification.
In terms of the brightness, the largest exit pupils can only be
fully used by dark-adapted younger folks on moonless nights
under dark skies, because the sky background is very dark in
that situation. But under moonlight and light pollution, then
having a lower ratio of gathered light in relation to
magnification yields more contrast, which makes fainter stars
easier to see, since the background is darker.
Brightness in Exit Pupil
Why some exit pupils appear brighter than others of equal size.
Ray Diagrams
All the rays from the cone passing thru the objective to the focal point will pass thru the eyepiece. No rays will be lost. The cone of rays from the objective focal point to the eyepiece exit pupil has a different angle cone for every eyepiece. The shape of the cone of rays gets narrower or wider depending on the eyepiece focal length. That's what focal length is all about. Focal length of a lens creates a cone of light with an angle from the apex at the focal length to the base at the lens. A ray diagram showing a cone of light from the focal length of the objective, once the rays pass the focal point, will show rays at the angle of the eyepiece focal length. Of course F obj / F ep = Mag.
Focal length of a lens
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
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Here's a link to resolution tests that may help put to sleep the many posts on the internet that display data (not listed as test results, just posted as unqualified data) that states to the effect that a 10x binocular can achieve 6 arcseconds resolution or even an 8x binocular that can resolve 4 arcseconds.
Binocular Resolution Testing w/USAF Charts
The amateur astronomer should know the Rayleigh Limit of a lens determines it's resolving limit, however, the resolving limit can only be achieved at magnifications on the order of 25x per inch of aperture. Sure a 50mm lens has a rayleigh Limit of 138/50 = 2.76 arcseconds, but you have no hope of ever seeing that in a binocular.
Also for astonomical use in dark skies (scotoptic light) the human eye is capable of only achieving 2x to 3x less resolution than in daylight (photoptic light). A retailer that is reporting a resolution of 60 arcseconds for the human eye and 3 arcseconds for a 50mm binocular or 6 arcseconds for any 10x binocular is giving grossly misleading information.
Also the amateur should be aware that the USAF Line Pairs Chart is testing resolution in daylight on high contrast line pairs. The results would be much better than anything that could possibly be achieved in astronomical use due to the ability to see certain kinds of resolution (line pars versus point sources) differently. No binocular can reach the same results on point source resolution under dark skies.
Other Resolution Questions
Below is a series of questions and answers that have been culled from various posts here. There are a number of valuable links that will allow you to godd read some important discussion concerning resolution.
Q There's a strong chance that I will be purchasing Oberwerks' 22 x 100 giant binoculars or something very similar. I just want to know if the 22x to 25x magnification found on most giant binocs is enough to resolve globular clusters? and I mean resolve not grainy...
A I would be surprised if 22X binos could resolve globular clusters. I can't resolve stars in even M13 before about 100x with my 8in reflector.
My 150mm refractor needs 200x to resolve M13 to 60 stars. With my 20x80s I cannot resolve any globulars, although I look at a lot and still enjoy the view.
Q These (25x100mm) bino’s have a good solid build. ...M22 had a mottled look, and it was very easy to see that it was a globular cluster even though there was no way of resolving it at 25x.
A For anything less than optimum magnification, resolution delivered is dramatically reduced. ... Your 8x42 BEST binocular may be capable of 10 to 12 arcsec, and a 16x70 Fujinon is capable of about 7 to 8 arcsec, by the best observers. For astronomy, you cannot achieve those results.
A ...as magnification increases we get to resolve easier. For example, an individual with 150 arcsec acuity can use 10x binoculars to resolve a 15 arcsec double star. However, the same person with 150 arcsec acuity would not be able to see a 1" arcsec double resolved if magnified only to 150x. It would take more like 200x or 250x or more. As objects get closer to the Rayleigh limit, resolution becomes far more difficult and a much higher magnification is need.
Resolution of binoculars
Q Being as I struggle to come to terms with measurements such as "arcseconds", I wondered how close to these miniscular measurements comes a top "E" first guitar string ,measuring precisely 0.3 millimetres, being "clearly resolved" through 10 x 50 binoculars from a distance of 100 metres in very unfavourable lighting ?
A 0.6 arcseconds. That would be near the equivalent of seeing the Cassini Division with those binoculars. That falls within the realm defined for extended objects of line shape.
What happens when the thin line you've selected reflects light? Two very important conditions conspire to allow you to see this thin reflective wire.
First, It becomes similar to a long line of point sources. The light from a point source can be seen even if it has imperceptible width.
Second, A lens is not capable of showing any object smaller than it's limit of resolution. What it will do is make anything smaller than the Airy disk appear as the same size as the Airy disk. Your lens has actually fattened up the image of the line...
Resolution and contrast are related. The lower the contrast of the target, the lower the resolution of the optical system. Brighter stars are easier to resolve. Shiney wires are the same. Most resolution tests are done with high-contrast targets not only because they are easier, but also they give better numbers.
Resolving a thin wire
Visual Acuity is a limiting factor in the eye’s ability to achieve resolution and magnification is employed to make an image large enough for the eye to perceive. If your visual acuity is 200 arcseconds, you need 12x mag to see a 17” double or 20x mag to see a 10” double.
Acuity can be measured as the apparent separation results for a range of varying doubles recorded with one or more pieces of equipment. The results will fall into a fairly narrow range. This would be the observer's acuity range.
Measuring visual acuity is not the same as measuring the resolving ability of your instrument. Resolving is the closest components that can be detected. Acuity is the apparent separation results for a range of varying width doubles measured with various equipment, or even measured with one piece of equipment on various targets. It is surprising how the apparent separation results for a variety of doubles will fall into a fairly narrow range. This would be the observer's acuity range.
Humans are not capable of 1 arcmin resultion in astronomical viewing applications. This value represents the absolutely very best vision, (think O'Meara here), observing a black line on a white ground (think the power line example), in the very best optimum lighting conditions (think black line against blue sky on a bright sunny day with no glare).
...any number of publications report tests that show that a better than average human is capable at best of 2 arcmin acuity, ...and normally 3 arcmin or less of resolution when viewing point sources under subdued light conditions (astronomy).
Testing for Visual Acuity
Q Are large aperture binoculars providing greater resolution?
A Most people will argue that the size of the objective lens is what determines the resolution, and yes this is true. But how much of that resolution the eye can see is dependant on how large the resolved image is magnified. Just about every binocular objective size provides more than enough resolution for the eyes. However, without sufficient magnification, the eye will not see what has been resolved.
...even a 50mm (2") objective is capable of resolving two stars 3" apart. But it would be resolved only if you magnified it large enough for the eye to see it. There is not a common fixed power binocular on the market today that will allow you to see the split in a 3" double, even the 25x150s. But if those lowly 50mm binoculars had 60x or 70x magnification you would be able to see that 3" double as split.
This thread discusses some of the reasons for large aperture binocs
Are large aperture, low mag binoculars pointless
Here you will find explanations for some of the terms used to define resolution
Rayleigh Limit / Dawes Limit
-------------------- Teach a kid something today. The feeling you'll get is one of life's greatest rewards.
member#21
Edited by EdZ (08/23/05 12:46 PM)
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
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Do the critical specs/features to look for when buying large binoculars change when the dominant usage will be distant terrestrial viewing, or do the same factors apply as for astronomical observing?
Large binoculars for distant terrestrial objects
...you mentioned looking across considerable expanses of land & water. In the daytime, frequently there is considerable heating or cooling of the air (what the meteorologists call heating-degree or cooling-degree minutes). This in turn causes thermal activity, which causes the kind of shimmering "funhouse effect" to the image that you see in the movies when a scene is filmed in the desert...the higher the magnification, the more pronounced it is. I currently have 4 hi-end binos and a premium scope and do a lot of birding by local lakes. I find that very seldom can I use the really hi-power eyepieces on the scope and often even the stronger binos don't work as well as the lower powered ones when there is several degrees difference between the air temp and that of the water surface, or between air temp at ground level and just up a few meters. Air has to very stable to have good seeing conditions if you're talking about looking at something much over 2-3 miles away and seeing it to best advantage. I can only use the highest power eyepiece on my scope (48x) very seldom and get the kind of image it's capable of producing...usually the lowest pwr ep (24x) will give a cleaner, more usable view with just as much detail, just a smaller image. This is one of the problems of terrestrial viewing vs cosmological....when stargazing you're looking thru much less dense air which isnt as susceptible to thermal currents
additional posts will be added
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member#21
Edited by EdZ (02/05/04 06:35 AM)
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
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In most binoculars, the image deteriorates the further out from the center of the field of view. Some binoculars have special lenses that help alleviate this problem, and some are just better than others. In general the wider the field of view, the more distortions present at the outer edges of the field of view.
There are many threads where a brief comment is made about edge sharpness, but this one thread covers it in detail. Here is a good discussion related to edge performance.
Edge Performance
Also, you must recognize that edge performance, as noted in a concise statement made by Kenny in the thread above, "["Edge performance" is in itself a rather inadequate title to cover what I consider to be an attempt to categorise what could encompass a whole range of possibly quite different and unrelated properties of an optical system.]", can be caused by a number of issues. To understand better the causes, you should also read the Best Of thread titled
Binocular ABERRATIONS AND DEFICIENCIES
Another thread related to the same topic, once again initiated by Kenny J
True ( SHARP ) field of view
See also this table of measured Binocular Field Sharpness for approx 30 binoculars
So often we hear brief reports about new binoculars to the effect, "this binocular is pinpoint sharp from edge to edge", or "I can only see distortion in the outer 5%-10% of the fov". How are we to believe subjective statements that are not supported by accurate measurments? Frankly, I have tested over 35 different binoculars and have found no fixed power binoculars that are sharp edge to edge and I have found only 2 or 3 that do not exhibit undesirable un-sharpness beyond 80-85% out. With well corrected eyepieces in variable power Binocular Telescopes, you can achieve edge to edge sharpness. This table shows results for a standardized means of measuring that sharpness across all brands of binoculars. It eliminates the subjectiveness.
edz
Edited by EdZ (08/24/06 04:06 PM)
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
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The original discussion that took place concerning the glass type used for prisms is buried within a thread where you would never find it. Here is a link to that discussion. Not all posts in the thread relate, so you may have to skip around a bit.
Where to buy now retitled to Bak 7 vs Bak 4
And don't miss this post way at the bottom of the thread
Bak 7 vs Bak 4 when to use
Another thread with some additional comments
Bak6?
This more recent thread (9/05) discusses some of the properties of BaK4 and BK7 glass and why they are (or are not) used for prisms in binoculars.
Prisms and Coatings - Differences
Roof Prisms vs. Porro Prisms
What are the advantages or disadvantages of one over the other, or are the differences just perceived differences? Do the different types of prisms have any affect on Depth of Filed or Stereoscopic vision? This thread begins to discuss the issues. Dut also refer to the Best Of thread on
Depth of Field and 3D or not,3D! for more related to the same topic.
-------------------- Teach a kid something today. The feeling you'll get is one of life's greatest rewards.
member#21
Edited by EdZ (10/26/07 08:16 PM)
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
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