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Equipment Discussions >> Cats & Casses

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offthegridinperu
member


Reged: 07/01/12

Loc: Cusco, Sacred Valley, Peru
Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru
      #5297572 - 07/01/12 09:47 AM Attachment (25 downloads)

Hi, I am new here and am glad I found you! This site is a godsend and I intend to purchase a scope from the classifieds. My name is Julie and you can learn more about me at my website, www.offthegridinperu.com.

I am observing from Peru, just outside of Cusco. I am devoid of much equipment until I visit the USA for a "supply run" this September, so I am ready to buy!

I am looking for advice on a telescope set up for:

-Observing, at times with groups of adults and children. I'll be running free observing nights for the community, an orphanage and tourists. I use a Mac and haven't been able to learn if Live View on a computer is even possible or am I limited taking turns and laser pointers? Mac compatibility... does it exist with any scope manufacturer?

-Astrophotography and solo observing are my main uses. I have a Canon 60D, I'm not ready for an imager until I master my DSL. I've researched this and know what I will need, but it is essential that I have the most user friendly and/or versatile to upgrade, set up for photography.

-Non-photo accessories.. I will buy a full range of eyepieces, a barlow and dew heater. Is it safe to leave a scope outside with a cover? I can plug right in to electricity, Peru is 220V. I can buy a battery down here to cut down on weight. I am not sure if I need any nebula or color filters since I have zero light pollution. Help!

-At 3,000 meters in the complete darkness of the Andes, there are so many stars, that it is difficult to identify constellations with the naked eye! My conditions are "stellar"! Still I am considering an 8"- 11" OTA. Because I haul to Peru on airplanes, I need something I will grow into. And if I can't view the intricacies of the Carina nebula, I may just fall over and die. I don't want to start too small.

- I'll have to ship my set up to TX and then fly with it. Airlines usually accept 5 bags up to 100 pounds and 90" total dimension at $150- $225 each. Shipping costs are going to kill me, but.... I need a scope. You understand that, I am sure. Weight and size obviously matter for travel, but once in Peru, under 80 pounds would be nice.

There's a lot of deals on used packages with accessories, though choices are limited. I guess people don't get rid of good scopes. I considered buying new. I'd like to keep it around $3,000 (considering @ $500 of that toward shipping) with knowing I can swap OTA's or upgrade, seems reasonable. I am going crazy trying to narrow down the scope itself, from there I could piece meal a mount, etc.. or should I take advantage of the good pricing but limited selection of resale packages? I am partial to Meade or Celestron, but open to suggestion. I learned a GEM is better than a wedge for photography, so all the used Meade LX200's available for resale.. seem less desirable now.

I've researched for months, but it seems the more I learn, the more confused I become. This is normal, right? My advantage is I have nothing but time to dedicate to the sky. So I am looking for some advice from people who speak from experience. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks for taking your time to read and respond,

Julie



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jmiele
Patron Saint?
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Reged: 12/04/10

Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: offthegridinperu]
      #5297638 - 07/01/12 10:35 AM

Julie,
Welcome to Cloudy Nights! That's a wonderful shot of the heart of our galaxy!

You will get plenty of input here. To you comment about folks getting rid of good scopes. I have found that the opposite is your. Folks in this hobby are very honorable. They would more than likely not sell an instrument they wouldn't keep for fear of damaging their reputation. The used market is a great place to get just about anything. From the hard to find money is no object, to the high value solution.

Best, Joe


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Super08
sage


Reged: 05/18/12

Loc: Great White North
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: jmiele]
      #5297831 - 07/01/12 12:41 PM

Julie
The main things to watch for with your location will be in reference to being south of the equator. Be sure what ever you buy can be set up for reverse rotation for tracking. If you wish to use 220 volt instead of a battery their are many makes of power supplies available from places like Radio Shack or simpler yet just get a travel converter from 220 to 120 that is rated for electronics. Good luck in what ever scope you choose. They will all give amazing views with the dark skies and elevation you will be observing from. BTW your blog is a very eye opening read.
Doug


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offthegridinperu
member


Reged: 07/01/12

Loc: Cusco, Sacred Valley, Peru
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: Super08]
      #5297912 - 07/01/12 01:24 PM

Thanks for the welcome and the encouraging words, guys! Hopefully I will be able to connect with someone here for the best scope for my needs.

Doug, ....reverse rotation. As much sense as that makes, you're the first person to mention it! There's not much in the way of southern hemisphere observing, so part of my goal is to provide a voice, in English, from South America! Thx!


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jrbarnett
Eyepiece Hooligan
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Reged: 02/28/06

Loc: Petaluma, CA
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: offthegridinperu]
      #5297925 - 07/01/12 01:34 PM

Hi Julie.

In many ways I find your predicament enviable. You're a clean slate, with loads of enthusiasm.

Is there any particular reason you have zeroed in on an SCT and are certain that you need 8" to 11" in aperture? I ask because many seasoned astronomy authors observe with 4" and 5" refractors and have little difficulty exploring the intricacies of pretty much anything from dark sky, high elevation sites.

So let's talk about your site. How high is it? How dark is it and how steady, on average, are the skies? All of these factors will affect what you can see and how well you can see and image it. Large SCYs have massively long focal lengths, and inherently tiny true fields of view. Large aperture scopes are more affected by bad seeing than smaller aperture scopes, too.

More about your site - is it muggy, wet and humid or bone dry, or somewhere in between? This will affect how much attention you'll need to pay to dew suppression (which, in turn, will affect how large of a power source you'll need) and whether storing the scope out of doors covered would be prudent. Moisture is an enemy of telescopes.

I am not trying to discourage you, but rather trying to make sure that you've thought about the key site-scope correlations in opting for a big, dew prone, tweaking-required (ultimately HEAVY) SCT over something a little more svelte and rugged.

A week ago my clubmates and I returned from a week-long trip to a high elevation dark sky site. The site had no water, no power and was at 8500 feet. It was dark, and for all but one night of our stay, provided very steady skies. Astronomy author and friend, Neil English, will have a write-up covering the trip in a UK astronomy magazine shortly, and my own wordier write-up is in process and as some point will be submitted to CN for publication as an article. But that's not relevant. What's relevant is that we had many scopes in the field and had ample opportunity to compare them head to head on several classes of targets. I alone brought a 90mm Mak-Cass, 60mm vintage achromat, 6" SCT, 8" SCT, 11" SCT (fork mounted), 102mm ED doublet and a 140mm triplet. I provided scopes and mounts for a couple of our guests to use, and also did a fair amount of OTA swapping on my mount. I'm not an imager, though, so my comments about these scopes off the grid, are limited to visual observation.

What was most apparent was that, under very dark skies the difference on many classes of targets visually between 8", 11" and 15" scopes on one hand, and 4" to 6" scopes on the other, weren't as great as the delta in light grasp would lead you to believe. Sure the bigger OTAs did a better job on galaxies, but on planets, double stars and the 400 or so brighter DSOs, the little scopes did almost as well or in cases (*cough* Saturn; splitting Antares, etc. *cough*) better. They had the advantage of being much easier to store securely, transport and in the case of the refractors in particular, the much lesser requirement for periodic maintenance to achieve top performance.

If you're looking at around $3000 "all in" inclusive of eyepieces, dew control to the extent needed, adapters for attaching your camera to the scope, OTA and mount, etc., etc., and are Hell-bent on an SCT, I'd look at Celestron scopes over Meade for weight savings alone. I'd probably opt for a moderately sized fork mounted Celestron over an EQ mounted one; CPC-800 being about as big as I'd want to break into sub-components and lug by airplane. I'd start imaging au naturel and add a wedge later as I got up to speed, though I think SCTs are mediocre deep sky imaging scopes due to the long focal lengths per inch of aperture puny fields of view but with skillful post-processing are great planetary imaging platforms.

As an alternative to an SCT, however, I'd recommend considering a 4" to 5" refractor on a decent mid-capacity EQ mount (Atlas, CGEM, etc.). While it's true that inch-per-inch, a refractor will cost a lot more than the SCT, and at your budget you'll end up with a smaller scope if you go the refractor path, refractors have the advantage of lower maintenance demands, easier dew suppression (some nights even dew strips can't totally eliminate dew around the secondary of my 11-incher), easier secure, moisture-free storage (it's no big deal to remove a 120mm refractor OTA and put it in a hard case, but disassembling the fork assembly from an SCT tripod and storing it between uses would be a chore).

As for eyepieces and filters, I'd say less is more. Though I have something in the neighborhood of 300 eyepieces, I rarely use more than 3 or 4 during a session. I'd suggest a high, medium and low power eyepiece, skip the Barlow and definitely get some form of narrowband filter; either an O-III or UHC. Eyepiece choice largely depends on site conditions and the scope you choose, so until you decide on a specific scope, it's premature to recommend specific eyepieces. Given that you plan on doing outreach with the scope, however, I'd suggest choosing eyepieces with ample eye relief and easy eye placement.

Macs are great for astronomy, as are the various Apple iOS devices (iPad, iPod Touch and iPhone). A company called Southern Stars makes an application called Sky Safari that is the greatest thing since sliced bread, IMO. It is a great session planning tool, wonderful planetarium program, can direct/control your GOTO mount wired or wirelessly with the right accessories (Sky Wire or Sky Fi).

I dunno about live sky using a Mac, but there is a forum here on CN for video astronomy and I suspect that is where you should ask such questions.

Long and rambling, but a start at answering a few of your questions and posing a few more.

Regards,

Jim


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Falcon-
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Reged: 09/11/09

Loc: Gambier Island, BC, Canada
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: offthegridinperu]
      #5298164 - 07/01/12 04:22 PM

Quote:

I am looking for advice on a telescope set up for:

-Observing, at times with groups of adults and children. I'll be running free observing nights for the community, an orphanage and tourists. I use a Mac and haven't been able to learn if Live View on a computer is even possible or am I limited taking turns and laser pointers? Mac compatibility... does it exist with any scope manufacturer?




There are three ways to get live-view from your 60D to display on your mac.
1) A program called Nebulosity that does capture-control, pre-processing, stacking, and post-processing for astrophotography. Will display live-view from the camera
2) Canon's EOS Utility - free and will do remote shooting and display live-view (but will not shoot exposures long then 30s)
3) use VMWare Fusion or Parallels or Boot Camp to run windows on your mac so that you can run programs like BackyardEOS or APT.

I use a mac myself use a mix of option 1 and 3. I also have a very cheap little windows netbook that can run the capture-control and auto-guide software so I do not need to use my big macbook just for capture.

That all said though, if you are expecting to use live-view to show a crowd of people what the telescope sees unfortunately that will not work In order to produce the video (live) view the camera is essentially producing 1/30th or 1/15th second exposures and that is just far too short to display dim deep sky objects. Live-view is still EXTREMELY handy for getting accurate focus, for the go-to align of the mount, and in some cases for framing your target - but with the exception of things like the moon and PERHAPS jupiter/saturn it will not be useful for outreach. If your audience has a bit of patience you can instead shoot "short" exposures (30s, 60s, 120s) and wow them with single-frames of the brighter DSOs.



Quote:

-Astrophotography and solo observing are my main uses. I have a Canon 60D.... ....have the most user friendly and/or versatile to upgrade, set up for photography.... ....At 3,000 meters in the complete darkness of the Andes.... ....I learned a GEM is better than a wedge




Mount:
Ok, so, first off, you need to consider your mount first and THEN the scopes to go on it. For astrophotography the mount is enormously important, especially if you want that "most user friendly and/or versatile to upgrade" thing working for you! While the starting level of mounts useable for AP, the Celestron CG-5/Skywatcher EQ5, are cheaper they have serious limitations and given your stated goals I think it makes much more sens to jump up to the next level. At that level you have three choices right now. All three are about the same price point, all three are proven mounts for astrophotography, all three have advantages and disadvantages.

- Orion Atlas EQ-G / Skywatcher EQ6 (proven workhorse, easily controlled from a windows laptop instead of it's hand controller if you want to)
- Celestron CGEM (superior software in the hand controller, had some early teething issues when it first came out)
- iOptron iEQ45 (lighter then the EQ6 or CGEM, good reviews so far, relatively new so not likely to find used as easily)

I think you would do find with any of those three. If you purchase any one of them new that will be 1/2 your entire budget right there though!

Scope:
There is something you should consider when it comes to choosing a scope. Your 60D has quite small pixels, as a result once you get into long focal lengths you will actually find that it will be atmospheric shimmer (seeing) that will limit to your images, NOT how large your scope is. "Average" seeing is said to be between 2 and 4 arc-seconds of shimmer. With your camera if you had a telescope with a focal length of 1000mm you would have a spacial resolution of 0.887 arc-seconds per pixel! You can find out what your spacial resolution and the Field Of View size for any telescope or camera lens on this handy web page here.

So, with that in mind *if* you intended to do astrophotography ONLY and not visual and outreach I would actually recommend a small refractor or small imaging newtonian. This is because for most nights shot focal lengths are the correct match for seeing conditions, lighter weights are easier to autoguide for long exposures, and shorter focal lengths are more forgiving of small guiding/tracking/alignment errors. My usual advice is to start with those wide-field imagers and get a long focal length scope later.

Since however you *do* want to do outreach and given budget limitations I might reverse that usual advice... and appropriately the first scope I have in mind is an 8" SCT (be it a Celestron C8 or a Meade 8"). An 8" SCT with an f/6.3 reducer/corrector will give you a scope with 1280mm focal length for Deep Sky Imaging, 8" of light-gathering for visual and 2032mm of focal length for lunar/planetary imaging without the reducer/corrector. I would consider 1280mm a difficult place to start doing AP and will require some patience as you work out your polar alignment and guiding learning curve but a 8" SCT is a good all-round scope. Thankfully you also have your 70-200 L lens to act as a Very Wide Astrograph Refractor as well.

Accessories (astrophotography):

The absolute minimum is of course something to connect you your camera to the scope! You will need a T-Ring and either a prime focus adaptor or a corrector that will work like one.

I also already mentioned the f/6.3 Reducer/Corrector for a SCT - almost every scope needs something like that, most refractors need a field flattener as do Ritchey-Chrétien scopes, newts need a coma corrector, etc. Plan on something between $100 and $200 for a "xxx corrector" for (nearly) any scope you get.

When it comes to astrophotography at longer focal lengths something you are likely to want in fairly short order is an Autoguide solution. Cheapest and lightest version of that is a 50mm finderscope converted to a guide scope and the basic Orion SSAG or QHY5 guide camera. The Orion Mini Guider package is exactly that.

Other then that dew control would be the next on the list - I do not know how humid or dry your area is but you already mentioned on planning to get a dew-heater... so... guess you have that covered!

Given your lack of light pollution I would not recommend any filters. In the long term you may want to modify your camera to allow greater sensitivity to Hydrogen Alpha light and at that point you may want some narrowband filters such as an H-alpha filter or an O-III filter, but for now... nothing.

Accessories (visual):

Here you will have to rely on advice from others, my focus is more on AP so I do not have a whole lot to add for the non-photo side recommendations.


A Couple Options:

So with all that blather done with... here are a couple of setups you might consider. Prices are approximate *new* rather then used values w/o tax or shipping. You may or may not be able to get things cheaper by buying mount or scope used instead of in a new package.

Option 1: (long term flexibility, short term difficulty)
- Mount/scope package: CGEM and C8 SCT $2199 f/6.3 Reducer/Corrector $135
- t-ring: $15
- Prime Focus Adaptor $25
- Orion Mini Guider Package $350
Total: $2724 - leaving you ~$300 for visual accessories, dew control, etc.

Option 2: (good wide-field imager, good bang-for-buck visual, poor long focal length imager)
- Mount/visual scope package: Celestron CG5-ASGT and C8 $1529
- Imaging Scope: AT65EDQ $599 or if not in stock AT72ED and AT2FF $529 combined
- t-ring: $15
- 2" prime focus adpator ~$30 (not needed with AT72ED/AT2FF combo)
- Orion Mini Guider Package $350
Total: $2523 - leaving you ~$500 for visual accessories. You could also get the f/6.3 reducer/corrector for this setup but be aware the CG-5 may have issues driving the C8 for astrophotography (fine for visual). Some people have had success with a C8 on CG-5 for AP, but more people (me included) have trouble with CG-5 and long focal length.

Option 3: (Image & visual now, autoguide later)
- Mount/scope #1 package: CGEM and C8 SCT $2199 f/6.3 Reducer/Corrector $135
- Scope #2: AT6IN imaging newt $299
- Coma Corrector $135
- t-ring: $15
- Prime Focus Adaptor $25
Total: $2808 leaving $200 for visual accessories. If you get seriously into AP expect to have to purchase an autoguide setup later and probably get your camera moded or get a pre-moded camera

Option 4: (Budget? what budget! We won a small lottery!)
- Mount: CGEM or Atlas/EQ6 or iEQ45 ~$1500
- Scope 1: C9.25 $1400 and f/6.3 reducer/corrector $135 (for visual any time and for long-focal length imaging *when seeing is excellent*)
- Scope 2: 8" Imaging Newt $449 and Coma Corrector $135 (for imaging on most nights)
- Scope 3: AT65EDQ or AT72ED & AT2FF http://www.astronomics.com/main/product.asp/catalog_name/Astronomics/category_name/N1W216AU49AX9M2PF6XX6UH0H6/product_id/ATCC or Canon 300L or 400L lens $huge (for imaging on nights with poor seeing or for imaging very large targets
- Scope 4: your pre-existing Canon 70-200 and 24-70 $0 (for imaging extremely large targets, collections of targets, and for nights with truly terrible seeing
- Other stuff: Autoguide setup, dew straps, t-ring, etc, etc, etc
Total: do you really want to know?

As I write this out I am thinking more and more that Option 3 is the way to go. Lack of auto guiding will limit your exposure lengths but you can do visual right away and have medium (the newt) and wide (your 70-200 lens) imaging capabilities right away as well. Plus the f/4 focal ratio of the newt means you can get away with shorter exposures then you could with a refractor or SCT. Once the AP bug bites REALLY hard you will still need to spend more $$, but less so then option 2 and with less initial frustration then option 1.

Anyway... hope all this is more helpful then confusing! Nothing like info-overload to muddy the waters 'eh? Let me know if you have questions about any of this. You should head over the the DSLR Imaging section of the forums as well.

Good luck & have fun!

- Sean


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Falcon-
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Reged: 09/11/09

Loc: Gambier Island, BC, Canada
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: Falcon-]
      #5298200 - 07/01/12 04:48 PM

BTW - since I can not just seem to shut up... here is some more info!

You should seriously think about camera lenses as well. I find I get just as much or more use out of my camera lens collection then I do out of my scopes for imaging. Also keep in mind that older manual lenses can be excellent value for AP - after all autofocus and image stabilization are of no use in AP anyway! My entire collection of AP-worthy lenses cost me less then a Canon 300mm f/4 L lens would have....

The following is a list of my own equipment as a sorta reffrence to compair against the options I set out in my last post. This has been built up slowly over the course of 3 years with 75% of it being purchased used. I started with ONLY a mount (a CG5) and a borrowed camera lens (no scope, no autoguide) and slowly added equipment and AP experience from there. So here it is, along with what each thing is used for:

- Mount: Celestron CI-700 w/ DSC (can carry as much load as the Atlas/CGEM/iEQ45, but is older)
- Visual Scope: 1977 Celestron Orange Tube C8 (JUST picked this up a month ago)
- Long Focal Length Imaging Scope: Astrotech AT6RC (1370mm focal length, f/9)
- Medium focal length Imaging Scope: Intes Micro M606 Mak-Cas (912mm, f/6 - my prime imaging scope)
- Short focal length Imaging "Scope": old russian Tair-3 m42 mount manual lens (300mm f/4.5 - perhaps my most useful "scope")
- Other camera lenses I use: Super Takumar 200 f/4 m42 mount, Pentacon 135 f/2.8 m42 mount, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II, 28mm f/2.8 m42 mount lens
- Autoguide: 50mm finder-guide and SSAG (similar to the Orion Mini Guider linked above)
- Cameras: Modified Canon 350D (Rebel XT) & stock Canon 1000D (Rebel XS)


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offthegridinperu
member


Reged: 07/01/12

Loc: Cusco, Sacred Valley, Peru
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: jrbarnett]
      #5298365 - 07/01/12 06:42 PM Attachment (16 downloads)

Hi Jim! Nice to meet you! You clearly are the eyepiece king!! Wow, what help you are, and you've given me a whole new road to consider!

My site...I truly am lucky! We are very dry 9 months of the year, so perhaps a dew heater is non-essential? I just assumed the heat of the scope operating in cold req'd a dew guard. We can get to 40 degrees in the winter (now!). We are at 10,000 feet and very few families can afford electricity, so, it's pitch black. On average, I have *perfect* viewing conditions nearly every night, which is 12 hours long, 365 days a year.

To give you an idea of my typical conditions...
Canon 60D, 24mm, f/3.5 at ISO6400 for 20 seconds
Here's the Southern Cross laying on it's side, with Beta Centauri above and Carina (in all her splendor!) below. This is with my 24-70mm f/2.8 lens at 20 seconds with an ISO of 6400. With my eyes, the clouds and brightness differential in Carina were obvious. I'd estimate naked eye observation would eliminate 30%-40% of the stars captured with the lens. I am no fool, only my constant gratitude allows me to exist in this magnificent location!

Storage is not a problem, I only need move it a few meters into the house, but you've revealed exactly what I need to know... that since we are so dry up here, I can leave it outside for nightly use, at risk of long term damage due to the slightest bit of mositure. I can't imagine reason to disassemble except when we deep clean the main house twice a year, but it's nice to know I can easily haul a refractor over to the orphanage when desired.

The CPC-800 is a scope I looked at, thanks for the confirmation that I am at least on the right path. Sounds like I need a refractor for photography and a SCT for observing. I admit, I want to observe galaxies as much as anything else....there's so much to explore, isn't there? That's what I mean when I say I don't want to go "too small". You're saying that my conditions will allow me to get the maximum performance out of whatever scope ends up in my hands, correct?

I'm not hell bent on anything, except observing...and heeding the advice of experienced users, like yourself! Thank you for sharing yours!

And the leads on Mac friendly software, thanks for that too, I thought I was just ahead of my time from what I've read online!

Thank you so much for your advice, it is worth more than you know.
I hope to stay in touch,
Julie

Edited by offthegridinperu (07/01/12 08:53 PM)


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davebuechler
sage
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Reged: 08/21/11

Loc: Red River Gorge Kentucky
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: jrbarnett]
      #5298378 - 07/01/12 06:54 PM

Hi Julie and welcome to CN. There are a great bunch of folks here who will provide you with tons of good info.

Wow what a great opportunity you have and a unique situation. Uggg though, plenty of challenge, I thought I lived remote! Be sure to check local regulations as you MAY be subject to import duties. I don't know about Peru but you sure don't want to have it confiscated upon arrival if proper documentation has not been declared. It may be hard to sneak several large boxes of equipment past customs!

If your primary goal will be AP, first and foremost you should give utmost consideration to the mount. Simply to piece meal one together may lead to future frustrations. This is and will be the platform (both now and for the future)any telescope will be judged from. From this perspective IMO the Losmandy G-11 is hard to beat for the price and will handle fairly substantial payload. Used you could pick up an older model with 492 digital drive from $1500ish to a newer used model w GII go to up to $2500ish if your budget would allow. You may find more wanted ads for them than sale ads as they go quick on the used market. Yes, this eats into a substantial portion of your budget but will allow plenty of room to grow. Don't get me wrong, I have seen a lot of great photos taken from Atlas and CGEM mounts and it fits your budget better if you want more scope. But when compared to the Losmandy in fit, finish, reliability and customer support the Losmandy can't be beat in this price range...IMHO

Consider also that starting with a shorter focal length telescope (less than 1000mm) will be easier learning AP and will take advantage of wide field views. I would agree with Jim that a smaller refractor would show you a lot and suit your purpose well, however a good quality refractor isn't cheap. Alas, there are some very nice achro doublets in the 4" range that would fit the bill and keep you within your budget or if you could swing it (over budget) an APO, which may put you at or over your limit depending on the direction you take with a mount.

On the other hand if you just gotta go big a C-11 used for $1000 or less and you're still within budget with an older non go to mount. Keep in mind that with a Long F/L such as C-11 (or other Cassegrain style scopes) at 2800mm a guide scope is highly recommended if not downright necessary. I certainly wouldn't go any larger than a C-11(think heavy and bulky) and in fact the 9.25 seems to hit a sweet spot in affordability and mobility, would be plenty of aperture and save a few dollars. A C-8 would also be a good choice. As other have mentioned these may be more prone to dewing than a refractor and consideration must be given to dew heaters depending on your environment.

A deep cycle marine battery could supply power if remote or the necessary power adapter for AC. There are lots of do it yourself DC battery supply plans here on CN if you could assemble one there.

Cannon has a USB interface cable for the 7D and I would think also for the 60D in which you can "Live View" on your Mac using the EOS software if you simply want to view on your screen.

As far as eyepieces, all you really need is 3 EP's. A high power, mid and low power ep's. The low power wide field will probably cost you the most but a used 27TV Panoptic ($225)or ES 34 68* ($200 new) would provide nice mid-low to low power views. For mid power something in the 14-18mm range (ES 82* $100-$150 for example) and high power magnifications between 6.7 - 11mm (ES 82* $100.

Ok, that is a lot of stuff to take in. I guess it's always a trade off, unless you have unlimited funds....maybe even still there are trade offs.

Budget....AP gets expensive!

Good luck and let us know how things work out, we would love to see more photos from your location and hear all the great stories of outreach programs!!


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offthegridinperu
member


Reged: 07/01/12

Loc: Cusco, Sacred Valley, Peru
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: Falcon-]
      #5298460 - 07/01/12 08:05 PM Attachment (13 downloads)

Sean, nice to make your acquaintance! Thank you for the time it must have taken you to write this response! A+++ for thoroughness!

Thanks for the Mac advice, I am one of those "cult mac users" and was concerned since it seems everything astronomy runs behind the times (imho) on windows only software.

My guest observers can simply take their turn at the scope, so I appreciate the advice on eye relief pieces and a clear cut answer on impossibility of live view on a laptop. (there's our million dollar idea, btw...) I've done a lot of accessory research, but your advice is solid in preventing unnecessary purchases.

Mount wise, seems like the celestron is a solid choice. 1,000 thanks for knocking that off the list! A mount amenable to AP is critical! There's so much out there to choose from...in honesty, my brain just hurts, every day as I am trying to decide on my set up. You guys on this forum are my aspirin!

In terms of scope size, geeez, who knew an 8" would serve me better? I trust in your experience. Time and practice are the 2 things I have working in my favor, so I have nothing standing in my way in terms of the learning curve! Honestly, I don't have much else to do than master my equipment. (humbly blessed and aware of it!)

I like the idea of using a newt and cass combo. Tomorrow I will investigate your suggested options more closely, and the AP forums...where do the hours in the day go to? Research.

I can't thank you enough for the time and energy you put into providing some guidance! Really, you've gone above an beyond. I know your thread will serve others as well!

You didn't muddy the waters, in fact, you've provided exactly what I was asking for in a clear, direct manner. The AP bug is a horrible affliction to the bank account, but isn't a magical place to be for the soul? There is nothing like sharing a photo with others that demonstrates the magnitude of what we observe in the sky!

I look forward to learning more from you, Sean! You are a wealth of information! Rest assured I'll be back with more questions!

Here's a couple of meteors flying over the waterfall in back of the house. I am using Lightroom3 and plan on purchasing Photoshop so I can layer...yeah, one more expense... I have a lot of noise in my photos, I simply need PS to max my AP. In any case, I am limited to 30 second exposures and my photography is more for personal growth than the benefit of visitors, so they'll only get the end product. I realize I'll spend more $$ in the future as I master my equipment, but just to get started, your suggestions are invaluable!!!

You've sold me on the combo of scopes to satisfy my needs. Without your advice, I am afraid I would have been frustrated and disappointed with my purchase. I am SO glad I asked the experts before parting with my money!!

Anything else, please....say it!

Thank you!!

Saludes,
Julie

Edited by offthegridinperu (07/01/12 08:21 PM)


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offthegridinperu
member


Reged: 07/01/12

Loc: Cusco, Sacred Valley, Peru
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: Falcon-]
      #5298503 - 07/01/12 08:46 PM Attachment (12 downloads)

Sean, please keep talking to me!

This past March, I invested $5k in a Canon:
60D
24-70mm f/2.8L
70-200mm f/2.8L IS USMll
1.4 lll Extender, which I haven't removed from the 70-200
And a variety of aftermarket filters, AC cords and remote shutter, etc

Before the 'scope fever' set in, I was about to buy a Canon:
14mm f/2.8L Wide Angle
100mm f/2.8L IS Macro
Undetermined Fisheye

But, I'd rather sink money into a scope to feed my astronomy virus.

I haven't quite mastered the lenses I have, so until then I need more experience. For example, when photographing a half or fuller moon at dusk or rising over a cliff against a black sky, I sacrifice clarity for exposure. In other words, if I want the light sky or the contrast of cliff against sky, I lose all the detail of the moon, which becomes blown out. I use the net but am about to return to Peru with a book collection to help me use what I already have. You'll see me on the AP thread, believe me! Perhaps I'll copy this thread over there...

Example:
This photo I used my 24-70 lens. ISO 1000, f/2.8 at 15 seconds. This looked best to me in LR3. Any detail on the moon would have been possible with layering. It's a fine line between photography skill and photoshop, however, AP is complicated as #&*@! It's still a great photo no doubt, but there's this gnawing at me that I can do better.

No doubt, one day, I will have my lenses.
Julie


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offthegridinperu
member


Reged: 07/01/12

Loc: Cusco, Sacred Valley, Peru
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: davebuechler]
      #5298558 - 07/01/12 09:26 PM Attachment (16 downloads)

HI DAVE! Have I mentioned how much I LOVE the people on this forum!?

I can say from experience that if there's one thing about Peruvians it's that if they can take your money, they will. I can't blame them but, hay limitados, amigo! Customs folks really like me, I am lucky that way, however, I may have to pay something, you're right, so thanks for raising the obvious flag that I'd likely have overlooked!

Loomsday mounts....ok, will research that and see what occurs.

1000mm scope, check.
I need to visit the AP and refractor forum/classifieds, check.

Quote:

Alas, there are some very nice achro doublets in the 4" range that would fit the bill and keep you within your budget or if you could swing it (over budget) an APO, which may put you at or over your limit depending on the direction you take with a mount.




Derrrrp. I'll be googling this to understand it!!

The 9.25 is also on my consideration list.

Do I hear that if I use a refractor or a scope with 1000mm, the spotting scope isn't necessary? Cripes do I ever feel uniformed.

You are not giving me too much information! I am a sponge.

You can check out more of my photos at my website, www.offthegridinperu.com but here is one for you of the partial lunar eclipse in June. I need to spend more time blogging than looking at telescopes.


I'm astounded at the relevant information I am receiving! Thanks for your time and sage advice, Dave. You really heard me about long term AP concerns! I am excited to be a part of the community, even if it's from the other half of the globe!
julie

Edited by offthegridinperu (07/01/12 09:33 PM)


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Falcon-
Post Laureate
*****

Reged: 09/11/09

Loc: Gambier Island, BC, Canada
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: offthegridinperu]
      #5298663 - 07/01/12 10:40 PM

Couple (ha!) of comments on your replies to Dave and I:

- Once you get a tracking mount you may want to do a few experiments with your 70-200 L lens. *Most* lenses need to be a few stops down from full open to get the best performance for AP. For example the Canon 50mm f/1.8 II lens, a good lens, gives TERRIBLE performance for AP at f/1.8, bu at f/4.5 it is pin sharp across the entire image, likewise my Tair-3 300mm f/4.5 is best used at f/6.3 or f/8. So try out your 70-200 wide open, then stopped down slightly, then stopped down even more, you may find that the longer exposures are worth it for superior results. That lens has a good reputation though so you may be able to use it wide open if you are REALLY lucky. You may also find it works best without the tele-extender. (this advice applies to all camera lenses)

- The losmandy G11 mount is REALLY an excellent mount, as was said superior to the Atlas or CGEM. It is also expensive. If you do find any used a key to look for is "Gemini" or "Gemini II". Gemini is losmany's go-to system. Older mounts have the "492 Digital Drive" but do not let the digital fool you, it is not an automated system. A 492 equipped G11 is still a high quality mount, but it will be entirely up to your skill to find objects. From my own experience I would say that for AP you are going to experience a LOT less frustration if you get a mount with go-to capabilities. My CI-700 is a close cousin of the G11 and mine has a 492 drive with a "digital setting circles" system to help find objects and while I LOVE the mechanical quality and precision of the mount spending time slowly hunting for a target I know must be just out of frame is not the way to spend precious clear sky time. More experienced star-hoping method visual observers will scoff at me for this perhaps.

- The under-1000mm advice does not necessarily mean a refractor, that is why I recommended the AT6IN (800mm focal length newtonian). Refractors have the advantage of being compact and easy to set up (no periodic checks of collimation), but the newt has the advantage of a much faster focal ratio (can do a shorter exposure and still get the same result). That leads into the next point....

- It is not true that under 1000mm you do not need an auto-guide system, however it is true that the shorter the focal length the less sensitive the image will be to tracking problems. Something you will have to refine over time is getting a very accurate polar alignment. If you get a REALLY REALLY good polar alignment then there will be no drift in the declination direction in your image so the only blur/streaking that would happen would be if your mount's tracking was not the correct speed (not really a problem these days) or due to small variations in the mesh/machining of the drive gears in the RA axis. It does not *seem* like such things would matter, but oh boy do they matter! This is a lot of where a Atlas/CGEM/iEQ45 is superior to a CG-5 and equally where a G11 is superior to an Atlas/etc. Most of those tracking variations are small though so the longer your focal length the more obvious it will become. With a 70mm lens you may be able to expose for 20 mins and not notice anything, but at 200mm you may notice issues at 10 mins, then at 800mm you may be limited to only a couple minutes, and at 2032mm you will notice stars being off-round even on exposures under a minute. (I just made all those time figures up BTW, they have no actual relation to reality ). An auto-guide system's job is to watch those tiny variations and send correction movements to the mount - so you can see autoguiding does get progressively more necessary the longer the focal length. Guiding also can correct for the polar alignment being slightly off by sending corrections to the DEC axis as well as the RA axis. Since most people do start without auto-guiding this all is also why it is often recommended you start imaging at short focal lengths rather then start at long focal lengths and get frustrated fast. It is good advice. Start by learning to do a good-enough polar align and image wide with your camera lens alone, then move on to the medium focal length scope (small refractor of that imaging newt) and refine the alignment skills, THEN move on to long focal length (the SCT at f/6.3 or f/10). Insert auto-guiding into the mix at any point along that chain to help improve tracking all that much more. When not auto-guiding a fast focal ratio also helps, if you have an 800mm f/6 and an 800mm f/4 the f/4 will be able to use a shorter exposure and so there is less time for the image to be ruined by tracking error. Thus my recommendation of the AT6IN instead of a simpler to use refractor as the second scope earlier, both shorter then 1000mm and fast f/4.

- The C9.25 should be a good option too - I hear good things about those scopes (not had the chance to use one myself). I only left it out of my lists due to budget constraints (just as why I left out the G11)

- Software... you mention Photoshop and Lightroom. Astrophotography has some rather specialized software you can get for it that makes certain aspects of AP processing much easier then using Photoshop alone and much of it impossible with lightroom alone. I am not sure if you are familiar with the concept of Stacking the images yet or not, but that is the way to reduce noise and improve detail in astrophotography. It can be done manually in Photoshop, but I would not recommend doing it that way. On the mac there are two bits of software Nebulosity and PixInsight. I highly recommend you purchase Nebulosity. Nebulosity does these things for you:
- Control your camera during imaging, including doing long exposures and multiple exposures and short test exposures
- Provide ways to measure just how good your focus is (a VERY important thing to know you have critical focus before spending a night capturing data)
- Calibrate the images you have captured (remove unwanted non-random noise and correct vignetting and shadows of dust motes by using Dark Frames and Flat Frames)
- Stack your images to produce a integrated image with MUCH less random noise in it
- post-process the image to bring out all the faint details, enhance colour, etc, etc
The second bit of software, PixInsight does not do camera control, but is a more advanced calibration, stacking, and post-processing software package. It has a steep learning curve and I actually recommend you NOT get it until you have mastered what a combo of Nebulosity and Lightroom will get you (or Nebulosity and Photoshop). I personally used Nebulosity elusively for the first year and now use a combo of a little bit of Nebulosity and a lot of PixInsight. The post-processing aspect of AP is what takes the longest to learn, but it is also interesting to learn a new method and go back to something from a year ago and expose new details you never knew you had managed to capture.:)

- Video display for outreach: This can be done, just not with a DSLR. There are some very sensitive video cameras people use for displaying what a scope sees. There is a second on this in the forums if you want to ask more about it, but my suspicion is that you will be better served by just doing short exposures on your DSLR for quick (but not instant) feedback instead.


I have to say you are already getting some nice results - just getting a mount and plopping your existing camera down on it will give you expanded ability even if you never got a telescope. Do have fun with simple AP along with all this fancy complicated stuff!


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Starhawk
Post Laureate


Reged: 09/16/08

Loc: Tucson, Arizona
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: offthegridinperu]
      #5298681 - 07/01/12 10:52 PM

There are many possibilities.

If you're looking to do outreach, there are two basic ways:

(A) Visual- via eyepieces.

(B) Electronic, with something like a computer monitor.

Method A has some good sides, since people get to see things for themselves. The main down side is there is a lot of art in making out details and perceiving deep space objects. Regular observing builds skill quickly, but the best outreach objects are just the few brightest things in the sky. There are some other little things, like people have something wired into their DNA to grab eyepieces. You can't stop them. The other is they will get your grear dirty. It's work to clean up afterwards.

Method B has one really big thing going for it- the display is an inarguable image, and you can point things out on it to people while no one has to touch the scope, hogs the eyepiece, drives it off focus, moves the mount, or otherwise sets you back during observing.

Method B can be done with a DSLR taking exposures and displaying them as each one is taken, so it can be very easy to make work.

Now, the big thing is how do you get an system/ image worth looking at.

So, from my stable of 10 telescopes, I will describe a few and what they can/ can't do.

C11: This scope is a monster for portability. The optical tube assembly is 27 lbs, which drives the mount it needs. So, a mount like a CGEM will carry it- that's a 75 lb. mount. Packing this up to ship is not trivial. On the other hand, it is strangely cost effective like few other scopes in what it can do. Visually it has a long focal length, and really is a planetary telescope. The telescope can be used with a focal reducer to get the focal length shorter. But personally, I wouldn't be very interested in this scope for this use- I bought mine for doing f/2 imaging with a DSLR using what is called Hyperstar, which mounts the camera staring into where the secondary mirror goes. The image brightness difference is very much enabling for getting good images off of a DSLR, and you can shoot color on the night sky and have every image be ready to display on a monitor. This is the only deep space potography rig I would recommend for public outreach. The price for all of this gear is you would be able to image a half dozen objects per evening. The hyperstar element of this is something I'd be trying to figure out how to deploy to 3000 meters with dark skies south of the equator.

C8: This is probably the most common scope on earth at this point. It will do a bit on everything. Visually, like the C11, it's going to struggle with large fields of view. Smaller mounts can take this, and that's a good thing. The main limit here is it won't let a DSLR do hyperstar, though a physically smaller camera can. With that said, it's more portable at about 14 lbs, so moving it will be easier, and everything is smaller. The planetary images from a well collimated C8 are pretty good. You're probably looking at a visual outreach setup, here. I highly recommend the Celestron 2" eyepiece kit- it has everything needed, and the eyepieces have plenty of eye relief. I expect some dissent on that, but it works well.

AP130 EDFGT: Now, this isn't going to be trivial to get on a classified ad, so I am using it as a class of options- 5" diameter refractor somewhere from f/6 to f/7. This is the most reliable visible performance I can think of. The main limitation here will be it needs long exposures for photography on deep space objects. This isn't insurmountable, but you have to be aware of this. There are several candidate makes, and all of them have two major factors: (1) None are expecially cheap (2) They weigh as much as a C11.

With that said, this is likely the most satisfying visible image, and the 2" eyepiece kit means being able to get large fields of view, for once. This telescope type ffers the largest range of practical magnifications and high quality images. While astrophotography will require long exposures, the image sharpness should be very satisfactory. One of these could be a lifetime scope.

Possible candidates: TEC 140, TMB 130, Astro Tech 130, Takahashi TOA-130.

Celestron C5: While it may seem easy to make jokes about a 5" SCT after discussing 5" class APOs, this telescope has an unsual combination of performance for weight. The field goes from wide to narrow. But where the piper gets paid is this isn't a candidate for anything more than planetary photography. The fact it's light and cheap may make it a good outreach scope, though.

Smaller refractors to consider:

NP-101- Basically the gold standard for a 4" refractor- does an awful lot, but isn't super cheap, unless compared with the 5" APOs. The weaknesses for astrophotography with a DSLR are the same, and f/5.4 is a limit no matter what the diameter. This does the trick of a huge avaiable magnification range.

80mm class. These have a lot going for them, and even more if they are a sidekick to something a lot bigger. In that case, they can take on wide fields and the larger scope can do planetary images.

Now, for power supplies, you should be able to get 120-240v auto switching supplies for just about everything, so that should be no big deal.

-Rich


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offthegridinperu
member


Reged: 07/01/12

Loc: Cusco, Sacred Valley, Peru
Re: Advice on Scope for Observing/DSL Photog in Peru new [Re: Starhawk]
      #5303358 - 07/05/12 07:48 AM

All- Happy belated 4th of July, guys! Sorry I have not been around for a few days.

Sounds like for my budget, I need to start smaller than I had envisioned. I'm thinking a 6"-8" SCT on a GEM and a newt or ref, if I can find the right combo. The nice thing about that is when I can spend $6-$8k in a couple years, I will donate my smaller, starter set up to the orphanage or use it for visitors. Win-Win.

I'm glad I am not boxing a hauling a used 10". You guys really saved my *BLEEP* on that one! I need to walk before I run, lest I get myself frustrated right out of the gate. Thanks for your sage guidance!

This information is more than I expected and I say THANK YOU again for your time and energy. Forums eat up the hours and I respect your time. You are all very informative, kind and welcoming.

I'll be seeing you around on these forums and watching the classifieds! I am always playing with my canon and post my photos to my website. Now, I will start posting some here...in the appropriate forum!

You rule,
Julie


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