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Just a simple question: I have read a lot about the modifications to DSLR's for astrophotography use. Can somebody show me two pictures of the same celestial body photographed with the same equipment and the same number of images, etc., etc., but one from a modified and the other from an unmodified DSLR? I'd really like to see what the difference is.

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So, for DSLRs at least it's the Ha that is the issue, not so much for anything else?

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Not an issue per se, it is more about what needs be ‘blocked’ and what needs to be 'passed'. Consider these three wavelengths:

•Ultraviolet (UV) 10 nanometers (nm) to 400 nm [wide bandwidth]
•Infrared (IR) 0.74 micrometers (µm) to 300 µm [wide bandwidth]
•Hydrogen-alpha (H-alpha) 656.28 nm [narrow bandwidth]

Idea is to “block” first two (UV/IR) [to prevent star bloat] and to “pass” H-alpha [to capture the brightest wavelength of visible light in stellar astronomy].

H-alpha is a specific red visible spectral line created by hydrogen with a wavelength of 656.28 nm, which occurs when a hydrogen electron falls from its third to second lowest energy level. Modified LPF-2 (UV/IR blocking filter) allows the astronomically important H-alpha to pass through the narrow bandwidth at the H-alpha frequency (656nm).



Typical stock camera configuration:
1. Stock LPF-1 (IR/UV Block) does NOT block H-alpha
2. Stock LPF-2 (WB & IR/UV Block) “blocks/restricts” H-alpha

Typical modified camera configuration:
1. Stock LPF-1 (IR/UV Block) does NOT block H-alpha
2. Modified LPF-2 (WB & IR/UV Block) “passes” H-alpha



Note: Updates/corrections welcome!

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All of my pictures are taken with a stock DSLR. It takes a little more work processing and some longer exposures but it's not impossible. I still use my camera for daytime use a lot so I haven't taken the plunge yet. I know it can be used with custom white balance etc.

Not saying don't get it done as it definitely is an improvement but its not a compete show-stopper if you have to wait.

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Are those incredible pictures on the homepage of your website taken with a stock DSLR.



The time has come to replace my aging kodak z612. I am looking at dslr cameras for the same reason.



thanks

jake

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If those images on your gallery are with an unmodded T1i, then I really don't see an urgency in making the modifications to the camera any time soon at all. Incredible images! Well done, sir!

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I'll second that.

Simply amazing Stan.

jake

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Hi all,
I'm not much of an authority, but for what it's worth I've been using an unmodified D800 with an FSQ106ED

Here's my astrobin site - all the deep sky stuff is with the D800 and FSQ.
http://www.astrobin.com/users/alocky/
hope it helps your thinking.
cheers,
Andrew.

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WOW!!!
If that is with an UNmodified D800, then I cannot WAIT to see what my MODIFIED D800 can do!!

Those are brilliant images....just amazing..
great work!


Seriously guys, yes. Stock DSLRs ARE capable of BRILLIANT images, but modification makes them EVEN better.
No one ever said you HAVE to modify your camera(s)...but, the logical step up from stock is to modify your camera and get the most from your DSLR..
that's it..
For MOST people, that is the usual progression....but some never bother with modification...and that is perfectly fine!
You can still do a LOT with a stock camera.
But the point is that you can do EVEN MORE, and do it MUCH EASIER, with a modified camera

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Hi all,
I'm not much of an authority, but for what it's worth I've been using an unmodified D800 with an FSQ106ED and recently started using a CLS-CCD filter as per the links earlier in this thread. I've noticed that the one thing these filters do is make it very difficult to get any star colour - in particular the lovely yellows and golds I used to get are just whites now.
Here's my astrobin site - all the deep sky stuff is with the D800 and FSQ.
http://www.astrobin.com/users/alocky/
hope it helps your thinking.
cheers,
Andrew.

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