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Mary B
Vendor - Echo Astronomy and Electronics
Reged: 05/21/10
Loc: Minnesota
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Re: An "A" frame observatory?
[Re: Mike E.]
#5652831 - 01/30/13 05:30 PM
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Sort of an A frame roof
Could adapt that to an A frame. I used satellite dish linear actuators for power opening.
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solarGain
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 07/18/09
Loc: London & la Palma, Canary Is.
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Re: An "A" frame observatory?
[Re: Mary B]
#5653623 - 01/31/13 05:30 AM
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Weeks ago I came across an A-frame Observatory that may be what you had in mind. I have managed to find the copyrighted image only from the
book "Building a Roll-off Roof Observatory: A Complete Guide for Design and ..."
By John Hicks
ISBN-13: 978-0387766034
To search for the image key into google ( I use Safari) - Figure 1.32 Building a roll-off roof observatory- this will bring up the 2 images from the book. There maybe more information , I have no idea.
For a dob would be a problem but there is no reason not to fold/ hinge along the middle of each halve of the 2 frames to drop the height by the same. Best of both worlds then. Weathering will demand care along the hinged lengths!
I was researching for coelostats and a A-frame came up but this fully slid
away from the optics.
So if you could slide the A-frame structure completely by rotation so as to operate the scopes thru' the wide opening or such this would be a best solution. John
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Ettu
member
Reged: 09/18/12
Loc: 45N90W Wisconsin USA
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Re: An "A" frame observatory?
[Re: solarGain]
#5655966 - 02/01/13 09:51 AM
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Thanks Mike, Mary, John
I guess my type of "A" frame is somewhat unique...
Using linear actuators from old satellite dishes is a great idea! If I build walls higher and bigger, I'm probably going to need some mechanical assistance. I hadn't even thought much about that aspect! Eight foot walls are okay to handle, but 10 footers would be more than 50% larger. Based on my 8 footer experience, I can tell you that a breese would be a problem, and dangerous.
The idea of rolling away the "A" frame walls is an intruiging one. Because all the weight of the wall is on the hinges, that then would have to roll, it would be a tough mechanical, structrural issue. I'll probably stick with the hinged sides. Weather is not so much an issue if they hinge inward. That allows the steel siding to overlap. My choice of the hinge at 3' down is strategic. That makes the folded portion easier to handle, at a handlable height, and it's short enough that it won't hit anything inside.
Unfortunately I don't have face book accnt, so I couldn't see John Hicks plans :-( I'll have to see if I can see them some other way.
Thank you to all.
I am pretty much settling on building a 10' version. It'll incorporate everything I've learned (and am learning) so far. Unfortunately it may not be this summer. (I do have an observatory ...) My wife will be VERY unhappy if I build a new one before finishing the house and needed repairs on some outbuildings first.
Keith
http://www.willowberry.net/keithnk_m42/45N90W
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