AugeredIn
member
Reged: 02/24/08
Posts: 63
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When I switch to 28sec or 56sec integration the screen goes blank. Works fine in 7 or 14 second integration.
What I am doing wrong? It worked a couple of times but mostly does not.
Phil
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TEC 140
CGE
ST-10XME, CFW8A, Shuler LRGB & HaSO
Canon 20d
Pensacola, Florida
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ZielkeNightsky
sage
Reged: 10/01/06
Posts: 236
Loc: Denmark
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Hi Phil
I got some help about this problem from Rock. Hope it helps.
The camera has to be at full 128X before you engage the hyper mode. If not, it will not SYNC with Hyper section.
Also, if a bright light enters the camera, it will lose count to protect the electronics. Just unplug, start Hyper Section
Also make sure the SHUTTER is set at OFF.
Make sure the AGC is set to manual and set to middle section of the slider bar adjustment
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Lars
10", 8", 4" Newton
80mm Scopos
4" Achro
Edited by ZielkeNightsky (04/17/08 12:27 PM)
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Jack Huerkamp
Vendor - Waning Moon
Reged: 10/13/05
Posts: 519
Loc: Louisiana
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If the AGC is set too high for sky brightness conditions (light pollution or full moon) the camera will protect itself by flashing an image and then going dark. Try lowering the AGC in these situations.
Jack
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Orion ED80
Coulter CT-100
Celestron 6" f/8 Refractor
8" Newtonian/Cassegrain on Byers 812 Mount
Classic C-8
Celestron 11" CPC 100 with HyperStar
Tricked-out 17.5" AstroSystems TeleKit
Life Member and ALCOR - PAS New Orleans
 Waning Moon II Observatory
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AugeredIn
member
Reged: 02/24/08
Posts: 63
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Thanks guys. I believe the problem is that I just have too much light pollution nearby.
If I point it east where there are no local light sources it seems to work. Any other direction is over a localized light source.
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TEC 140
CGE
ST-10XME, CFW8A, Shuler LRGB & HaSO
Canon 20d
Pensacola, Florida
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Jack Huerkamp
Vendor - Waning Moon
Reged: 10/13/05
Posts: 519
Loc: Louisiana
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Where in Pensacola do you observe? I was at John VeDepo's observatory about a mile north of the West Florida Regional Medical Center and we could only observe straight up due to the light pollution. Yeah - the live oak tress in his yard also limited low viewing, but the light pollution was pretty bad. Are you a member of EAAA (Escambia Amateur Astronomy Association)? I hear they have access to a dark sky site near Munson.
Jack
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Orion ED80
Coulter CT-100
Celestron 6" f/8 Refractor
8" Newtonian/Cassegrain on Byers 812 Mount
Classic C-8
Celestron 11" CPC 100 with HyperStar
Tricked-out 17.5" AstroSystems TeleKit
Life Member and ALCOR - PAS New Orleans
Waning Moon II Observatory
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rolandlinda3
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 01/24/06
Posts: 1630
Loc: Crozet VA 22932
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Since you are using a MC, when the screen goes blank it usually means there is too much light in the FOV or the camera to handle. Reflected light of clouds on a bright night with a bright object (in relative terms) can often produce this. A sure way to know this is what happens is to go to the next lower integration time. If everything comes up roses, then that is what is happening. Make a mental note about typical conditions when this happens because it is a handy thing to have a sense of. Shorter integration times with a bit higher AGC is good to keep interference from scope movement/sky changes, etc to a minimum. Of course, then one is always "against the wall" where you can overwhelm the camera by pushing the AGC a bit too much. The MallinCAM's safety features are nice in this regard because you may approach or pass a limit inadvertantly but still recover. Roland
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AugeredIn
member
Reged: 02/24/08
Posts: 63
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Quote:
Where in Pensacola do you observe? I was at John VeDepo's observatory about a mile north of the West Florida Regional Medical Center and we could only observe straight up due to the light pollution. Yeah - the live oak tress in his yard also limited low viewing, but the light pollution was pretty bad. Are you a member of EAAA (Escambia Amateur Astronomy Association)? I hear they have access to a dark sky site near Munson.
Jack
Hi Jack,
I am over near the airport. Yeah the LP is pretty bad. I did get a half decent Whirpool back to the NE over the dark airport.
I am a member of EAAA. I understand you are over here often. Look forward to meeting you.
Phil
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TEC 140
CGE
ST-10XME, CFW8A, Shuler LRGB & HaSO
Canon 20d
Pensacola, Florida
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Douglas
Vendor - Night Vision Astronomy
Reged: 05/21/07
Posts: 293
Loc: Pound Ridge, NY
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I have found that this happens when you make and AGC adjustment and then switch from 2.1 mode to anything more (7,14, 28 or 56 seconds)wihtout waiting for the image to rebuild. I found that it is best to switch to 2.1 second mode before making any AGC changes as a result and allow time for the image to rebuild. Rock suggested this also. If I wait about 30 seconds after the AGC adjustment, the image rebuilds itself and then I can go into hyper mode without the flicker and then black out. When I did experience it, I switched from hyper mode back to 2.1 second mode and then right back to a hyper mode setting and it was fine. Didn't seem to have anything to do with light pollution. Maybe that is another condition I have yet to experience but it sounds like what I experienced with AGC setting changes. Rock mentions it in the user manual but it still freaked me out when it happened, thought the camera was mal-functioning, but it was ok.
- Doug
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Night Vision Astronomy
BIPH - Binocular Photon Machine
IDA Member
Obsession 12.5" Argo Navis/ServoCat #1528
Tak FSQ-106 EDX2 & EM-200 Temma II
Canon 450 Xsi No Modification
QSI 532ws CCD with AstroDon Filters
Home Built Gen III Image Intensifier
Denk II Binos D14s & D21s
MallinCam Hyper Plus Color
Bunch of Naglers & 13mm Ethos
Stellarvue 80mm F/7 NHNG #36
PST SolarMax 40 Double Stack
Canon 15 x 50 IS Binoculars
AstroTrac
Edited by Douglas (04/21/08 12:58 PM)
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ZielkeNightsky
sage
Reged: 10/01/06
Posts: 236
Loc: Denmark
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I had the same problem many nights and its very frustrating.
Even with Rocks advice I had great difficulty getting the camera back in action. In my case its not LP any more.
I always have the the switch in 2.1 seconds, when I make adjustments, and still I run into this problem.
Saturday night I stopped observing because I couldn't get it over 7 secs. Sunday night I started out with the same settings and no problems for a couple of hours.
Reading Dougs post, I think the problem comes when I change settings in 2.1 second mode, or as I did last night, just showed the settings to others watching the broadcast.
Last night I couldn't get it to work with anything over 2.1 seconds. I took the power of for a minute, let it run in 2.1 sec. mode for a while and then 4, 7 secs. bang frame drop again.
When I got it back into action after 20 minutest the view was great. Sadly I have no idea what did the trick.
So if anyone can come up with a way to identify what is going wrong and even better, a way to "reset" the camera I would be very happy.
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Lars
10", 8", 4" Newton
80mm Scopos
4" Achro
Edited by ZielkeNightsky (04/21/08 02:21 PM)
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ZielkeNightsky
sage
Reged: 10/01/06
Posts: 236
Loc: Denmark
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Here's the advice I got from Rock:
That's easy. The camera has to be at full128X before you engage the Hyper mode. If not, it will not SYNC with Hyper section
Also, if a bright light enters the camera, it will lose count to protect the electronics. Just unplug, start Hyper Section
ALso make sure the SHUTTER is set at OFF.
Make sure the AGC is set to manual and set to middle section of the slider bar adjustment
Try in the middle to start and make sure the camera is set at 128X. next, make sure the shutter is at OFF position in the ALC/ELC
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Lars
10", 8", 4" Newton
80mm Scopos
4" Achro
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ZielkeNightsky
sage
Reged: 10/01/06
Posts: 236
Loc: Denmark
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Hi
I've got some new advice from Rock. So if I have the problems again I'll try it out. And keep you posted.
Its really nice to get fast response. The service is out standing.
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Lars
10", 8", 4" Newton
80mm Scopos
4" Achro
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ZielkeNightsky
sage
Reged: 10/01/06
Posts: 236
Loc: Denmark
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Problem solved I think. It seems it was volttage drop from the battery.
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Lars
10", 8", 4" Newton
80mm Scopos
4" Achro
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Douglas
Vendor - Night Vision Astronomy
Reged: 05/21/07
Posts: 293
Loc: Pound Ridge, NY
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That's good news that you are getting to the source of the problem. Definitely keep an eye on AGC setting changes, when I make adjustments to AGC I have to wait for the image to rebuild after saving the setting before going into hyper mode or I get a flicker and dropped frame.
- Doug
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Night Vision Astronomy
BIPH - Binocular Photon Machine
IDA Member
Obsession 12.5" Argo Navis/ServoCat #1528
Tak FSQ-106 EDX2 & EM-200 Temma II
Canon 450 Xsi No Modification
QSI 532ws CCD with AstroDon Filters
Home Built Gen III Image Intensifier
Denk II Binos D14s & D21s
MallinCam Hyper Plus Color
Bunch of Naglers & 13mm Ethos
Stellarvue 80mm F/7 NHNG #36
PST SolarMax 40 Double Stack
Canon 15 x 50 IS Binoculars
AstroTrac
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Rob Lambert
member
Reged: 02/20/06
Posts: 46
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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Guys,
Sorry if this question has been asked before, but I didn't see it after doing a search.
I was intrigued by Mark's (mclewis1) setup with the Ikan monitor on top of the Mallincam (see http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/2470794/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1 ). After seeing his split cable that powers both the Mallincam and the 2.5" monitor, I would like to do the same thing. My concern is the source of the power. From reading Mark's explanation, I'm not sure if he used the Mallincam's 12V 500mA power supply for both. He expressed concern about having enough power for both, but I'm not sure what his power source is. According to what I remember from physics class, I would need at least a 1.0A 12V source to power both with a split cable.
I am currently powering all of my equipment: Mallincam, DVD player (for small monitor), CRT, and laptop from a UPS battery and inverter, I would like to get rid of some of the wall-warts (power supplies) and simplify my power connections. If possible, it would be nice to get rid of the inverter for some of the connections. Not only would this simiply the cables and power cords, but it would be more efficient since I'm currently converting DC power to AC and then back to DC. Something seems inherently wrong with that.
Here are my questions:
1. Since the Mallicam and the Ikan monitor both use 12V 500mA power supplies, what would be wrong with powering both of them directly from the 12V UPS battery? Rock suggests using only regulated power supplies, but I believe that is a concern only if you are converting from AC to DC. Since I would already be using DC power directly from a 12V battery, I'm not sure you could be more regulated than that. With an in-line fuse for safety, would a direct connection to the UPS battery be ok?
2. If the above is valid, what is the best way to protect both the Mallincam and Monitor from accidental reversal of polarity (connecting the cables to the wrong poles) in the dark?
Thanks for your help.
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Rob
Las Vegas Astronomical Society
Orion XT10i w/ COL
10" Meade LX200GPS w/ Peterson EyeOpener II, Televue Diagonal, 647 Flip Mirror, Celestron 6.3 FR on Scopebuggy
Mallincam Color Hyper Plus w/ MFR3
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JAT Observatory
Space Freak
Reged: 02/20/05
Posts: 5663
Loc: Eastern PA
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Powering the camera and monitor from a battery will be fine. Batteries are very clean power sources.
To protect the equipment I suggest installing a permanent cable with a keyed connector onto the battery terminals. I use RC car connectors for 12v things I want to disconnect. They are cheap and you can't connect them wrong without really trying (even in the dark).
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-Marcus
The problem with free speech is even the stupid have a voice.
http://jatobservatory.org
12" LX200R on a Paramount ME
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Rusty
Postmaster
Reged: 08/06/03
Posts: 16419
Loc: Brooker, FL
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Quote:
To protect the equipment I suggest installing a permanent cable with a keyed connector onto the battery terminals. I use RC car connectors for 12v things I want to disconnect. They are cheap and you can't connect them wrong without really trying (even in the dark).
I use Molex connectors, available at Radio Shack and online suppliers. These can be a bit more economical when you've a lot of connectors to make, as the tools cost a little extra.
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N11GPS Fastar
TOA-130S
MK66 Std
Vintage C5
Megrez II 80mm ED Triplet APO
SolarMax 40
NJP Temma II
Sirius EQ-G
ST8XE/CFW-8(LRGBHa)/AO-7/DF-2/STV Dlx/ST237a/350D (Unmodded)/Mallincam Color Hyper Plus/DSI III Color/DSI II Pro
Two not-spoiled Golden Retrievers - Maggie and Casey
Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke
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Rob Lambert
member
Reged: 02/20/06
Posts: 46
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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Marcus,
Thanks for the confirmation and the suggestion for using keyed connectors. I'm still thinking an in-line mA fuse might still be a good idea. What say you?
Thanks again.
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Rob
Las Vegas Astronomical Society
Orion XT10i w/ COL
10" Meade LX200GPS w/ Peterson EyeOpener II, Televue Diagonal, 647 Flip Mirror, Celestron 6.3 FR on Scopebuggy
Mallincam Color Hyper Plus w/ MFR3
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mclewis1
Thread Killer
Reged: 02/25/06
Posts: 2456
Loc: Colorado
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Rob,
Good questions.
You are correct ... I generally don't use the power supplies that came with either the MC or the Ikan LCD. For my scopes and accessories I have two Pyramid 12v 5amp units with cigarette style connectors running to some 1 into 3 power distribution units (that also use cigarette style connectors). My various mounts, cameras, dew controllers and such then plug into the distribution units. The Pyramids are nice stable, regulated and protected power supplies.
Since most cigarette plugs have an in line fuse in them everything is fused. I've also wired up some custom cigarette to 2.1mm plug cables to bring the power to the MC and Ikan LCD units. Everything is wired center positive so all the cabling is interchangeable.
While I don't particularly like cigarette style plugs (I find them a bit too big) they are almost universal and usually come with a built in inline fuse. One of the other benefits of using these connectors with the distribution units is that I can simply unhook the 12v AC supplies and substitute a couple of 12V batteries for field work ... with no changes to any of the other wiring. The only other thing I do differently in the field is to bring a third battery for the laptop. I have a DC to DC converter for the laptop ... I don't use any 12v to 110v inverters.
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Mark
C11, C6, APM/TMB115, and AT80ED
Tandem mount CGE and CG-5A, WO EZ-Touch, and AT Voyager
25x100s, 8x56s, T-Mount Light, and Mark 1 eyeballs
Modded 350D, DSI-P, SPC900, and Mallincam
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mclewis1
Thread Killer
Reged: 02/25/06
Posts: 2456
Loc: Colorado
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Oh and I forgot to mention that I also have a 7" LCD for field work with the MC that is also 12v powered. It came from a portable gaming setup so it also has a cigarette style plug. I have been leaving the Speco monitor and DVD/HD recorder at home unless I'm going somewhere with access to AC power.
I do also have a couple of 100w inverters that I may break down and try in the spring if I really need the better quality display and recording capabilities. The downside is lugging around enough 12v batteries to power a small submarine.
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Mark
C11, C6, APM/TMB115, and AT80ED
Tandem mount CGE and CG-5A, WO EZ-Touch, and AT Voyager
25x100s, 8x56s, T-Mount Light, and Mark 1 eyeballs
Modded 350D, DSI-P, SPC900, and Mallincam
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Rob Lambert
member
Reged: 02/20/06
Posts: 46
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
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Mark - Thanks for clarifying what you did with the Mallincam and Ikan power sources. Now, regarding the ball-joint mount for the Ikan monitor. The little mount kit you referenced doesn't seem to have a riser with two male ends. What mod did you make to the short riser so it would screw into the Mallincam and into the ball-joint?
Thanks again.
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Rob
Las Vegas Astronomical Society
Orion XT10i w/ COL
10" Meade LX200GPS w/ Peterson EyeOpener II, Televue Diagonal, 647 Flip Mirror, Celestron 6.3 FR on Scopebuggy
Mallincam Color Hyper Plus w/ MFR3
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