GaryHeath
super member
Reged: 08/13/09
Posts: 118
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Ed, are you asking me why 'I' would pay the asking $1700? If so .... I guess because an intuitive sense based on what the 80 Meibos are priced at on eBay, and a gut feel ..... that so far in life hasn't lead me 'too' far astray, I'd go ahead and take a chance in this case, and feel I'd be doing well if as advertised.
As far as a mount, I have a small machine shop in my garage and can turn projects up to 40" between centers, and 20" dia. in the gap of a gear-head gap-bed tool shop lathe, as well a small gear head mill with a 36" power table, to 'hobby about' with. So I would just make up an adapter to mount the existing mount to one of my Meade tripods, and use it for terrestrial stuff .... sort of like I did to mount my 25X150s on the UA Sirius mount with a Losmandy extension to a Meade giant field tripod, that I posted the pic's of in another thread here.
I live in the central Sierras, about 20 miles outside of Yosemite. Our home has a great-room with a 30 foot ceiling and a wall of glass that goes from a couple of feet above floor level, up to just over two stories, and a large rear deck, that both overlook a deep valley where there is abundant of wildlife, including these huge bull pines where in the spring .... golden eagles nest at slightly above and below our eye level from the deck.
So in my case .... these guys would become a very welcome conversation piece to our great-room, and move out to the deck when the weather permits. I have a dual reclining couch out there and two UA P-mounts at each end, that are both equipped with G.O. 20X80 CF triplets. My wife and I like to spend a lot of time out there relaxing and using the 80's to observe the wildlife, but a set of 150's would be nice too. 
As you know ... like you, I really don't need them for astronomy.
-------------------- For equipment see: My Gallery
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DJB
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 02/23/05
Posts: 1589
Loc: Lisle NY
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Hi all,
Edz's advice is so clearly correct. If this process must be done, it MUST be done by a professional organization, one who can actually perform the total recoating restortation process.
Unfortunately, these folks are getting harder and even harder to find; But they do exist. JMO.
Best regards, Dave.
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edwincjones
Postmaster
   
Reged: 04/10/04
Posts: 5664
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Gary,
My question was addressed to Ortensio, is the cost of the binos more than what he would pay for newer, lessor binos, and is it worth it to him to have the classics vs a modern binocular.
I agree with your useage, it would be show piece, restored, and quality of optical coatings would not be an issue for me.
edj
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n w arkansas
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EdZ
Professor EdZ
   
Reged: 02/15/02
Posts: 14725
Loc: Cumberland, R I , USA42N71.4W
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Quote:
Hi all,
Edz's advice is so clearly correct. If this process must be done, it MUST be done by a professional organization, one who can actually perform the total recoating restortation process.
Unfortunately, these folks are getting harder and even harder to find; But they do exist. JMO.
Best regards, Dave.
Dave, I think you misunderstood.
I said it can't be done.
edz
-------------------- Teach a kid something today. The feeling you'll get is one of life's greatest rewards.
member#21
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Gordon Rayner
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 03/24/07
Posts: 965
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"You cannot strip AR coatings". That is unfortunate. From what you and an experienced optician who reworked some scratched 25 x 150 eyelenses (.."most of the trouble is getting the EBC coatings removed"(by fine grinding?)) said, that seems to be true for EBC multilayers.
I recall being told that evaporated single layer MgF2 can be removed by simple chemicals. That information was from a professional coating shop. I do not recall which acid, or acid mix, but have notes. Perhaps that was for" cold" coatings ? I have no experience as a coater, and no experience doing, or having done, coating removal . I do have a number of 25 x 150 eyelenses which need to be fine ground ( ?) to remove scratches which are very shallow, but which penetrated the coating.
There seem to be many trade secrets among opticians and coaters. Maybe some Googling? There are grinding materials which were not available, or not used, before the growth of the semiconductor industry. I have a small benchtop Strasbaugh grinding/polishing machine, with the same motions as the clothes washing machine sized equipment in their product line. I have not used it. The only optic I made, as an adolescent, was a 6 inch paraboloid , following the Thompson book and Texereau's book.
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pcad
Carpal Tunnel
   
Reged: 01/17/05
Posts: 1767
Loc: Connecticut
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But if you grind it off, don't you have to refigure and polish it? Sounds like almost as much work as starting over. I guess if the original lenses are made from an obsolete glass type it might be worth it, maybe.
-------------------- Peter
Telescopes 25 - 318 mm
Binoculars 15 - 88 mm
Microscope 50x - 1000x
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DJB
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 02/23/05
Posts: 1589
Loc: Lisle NY
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Hi Edz,
Thank you for correcting me. I thought that some special labs were still doing this work.
I also recall reading (I thought) that some individuals were trying to accomplish this as well. Perhaps this is where the confusion on my part comes in. Well, at least I now know.
Best regards, Dave.
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DJB
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 02/23/05
Posts: 1589
Loc: Lisle NY
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Hi Edz,
Yes, I do understand that the original, outer surface of the lens must need be taken off.
Actally, we did this sort of thing with a third party vendor in Itaca, New York. However, this was lab work, and it saved a $100,000+ VERY LARGE mirror from yet another process. It was a very pleasant recovery for us in our lab.
Binoculars, however, are a different sort of beast.
Best regards, Dave.
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orbitaljump
sage
Reged: 01/29/06
Posts: 424
Loc: Charleston, SC
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Wow! If the optics are good to go, that is an excellent price!
Thanks for sharing the pics!
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My God, it's full of stars!
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Gordon Rayner
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 03/24/07
Posts: 965
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I edited out two or three typographical errors in my long post, above, after Kenny found one. Re-reading, I found more, but it is too late to edit. Remaining are "converplates"(sic) and "coverplastes"(sic), and possibly others. So, do not post when it is likely that you will want to go to bed before adequate proofreading.
In one website, I have seen repeated references to a "columnator"(sic). I know who used to pronounce it that way. Also, in the same site a "polaris"(sic),( and they do not mean the pole star), is promoted as the way to go for compass adjustment.
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orbitaljump
sage
Reged: 01/29/06
Posts: 424
Loc: Charleston, SC
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You busted me!
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My God, it's full of stars!
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Gordon Rayner
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 03/24/07
Posts: 965
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?? I have no clue of your meaning.
There are many contributors and readers whose native speaking and education are not in the English language. Since English already has chaotic spelling, those of us who have extensive experience with written English should be careful to use correct orthography,to avoid confusion.
Unfortunately, there are many native English speakers , such as the unnamed person(s) cited above, who use incorrect, confusing spellings. The "polaris" example might easily be interpreted to mean that they use the north star to make up a compass deviation table. I suppose that super-duper literacy was not a requirement to become a WW II Navy OM and then advance to the Chief rating.
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orbitaljump
sage
Reged: 01/29/06
Posts: 424
Loc: Charleston, SC
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Just funnin' ya, Gordon! Have a single malt scotch on me.
-------------------- .
My God, it's full of stars!
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Gordon Rayner
scholastic sledgehammer
Reged: 03/24/07
Posts: 965
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Sorry, I do not touch the hard stuff.
The neighbor ATM forum seems to have a higher signal/noise ratio.
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GlennLeDrew
Pooh-Bah
   
Reged: 06/18/08
Posts: 1267
Loc: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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I'd be surprised if it were at all necessary to *grind* off any coating. I should think that polishing would do the job. At least, when I aspherized my 50mm f/3.3 bino objectives the AR coating polished away in about 10 minutes.
And as to not being able to duplicate the proper figure and performance of a lens after coating removal, that's wrong, even *if* grinding were indeed necessary. So little glass would be removed (no more than about 0.03mm for 5 micron abrasive) that for all intents and purposes the thickness could be considered as unchanged.
Once the radius of curvature is known (and this is easily measured with a good spherometer), it's simple to arrive at the same figure. For convex surfaces, the usual approach to arriving at a good figure is to make a matched concave test plate. For concave surfaces, an interferometer would be used, and if the radius of curvature is relatively large even the Ronchi/Foucault test could serve.
The preceding applies for spherical and flat surfaces. Aspheric surfaces are a different matter, but most binos don't employ suchanyway. If an aspheric element is present, there would rarely if ever be more than one in each half of the instrument, and then most likely in the eyepiece. This surface might best be left alone, unless the coating was in bad shape.
And it goes without saying that cemented doublets and the like are problematic in that it may not be possible to re-coat them unless first separated.
-------------------- Home-made 11X50 right angle bino, 8.1 deg. FOV
Modified 26X100 bino, 3.5 deg. FOV
Home-made Mk II RA bino, using interchangeable objectives and eyepieces
My Gallery
Mediocre minds discuss people. Good minds discuss events. Great minds discuss ideas.
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Patrik Iver
sage
Reged: 07/29/03
Posts: 259
Loc: Kaarina, Finland
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Quote:
Also, in the same site a "polaris"(sic),( and they do not mean the pole star), is promoted as the way to go for compass adjustment.
I suspect that most people here have no clue as to what you mean with the “polaris”-reference. My guess would be “pelorus”.
And to the original poster: My apologies for further contributing to the deviations from the original and intended course of this thread…
-------------------- Best regards,
Patrik Iver
60°N, 22°E
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davidmcgo
professor emeritus
Reged: 10/09/04
Posts: 563
Loc: San Diego, CA
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With 150mm clear aperture and already coated why worry about it? These older Fujinons if in good mechanical condition would really perform extremely well compared to anything else available for near the price and probably last lifetimes in the amateur astronomer's typical use.
If these were in the US I'd have bought them already while everyone else here was arguing about whether the coatings could be improved!
Dave
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GaryHeath
super member
Reged: 08/13/09
Posts: 118
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You and me both Dave!
-------------------- For equipment see: My Gallery
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