And here's your optimized baffle tube design, with dimensions.
I assumed a 2" diameter image. If you want it bigger, let me know, it's easy to do now with the new optimizing code. Increasing the field diameter will increase the pupil obstruction somewhat as the secondary baffle has to grow longer and larger.
The rear of the primary baffle is 0.75" from the primary vertex to allow convection to flow through.
Just as a check, 3.39 + 12.67 + 14.69 + 0.75 = 31.5", the mirror separation.
The conical taper on the primary baffle is bounded by the 14.69" cone length, the 4.56" front diameter and 7.07" back diameter. The cone must be this length, and front diameter must be the value specified. The rear diameter should not exceed the value given. You can choose to taper the whole tube as plotted, or taper back halfway and go cylindrical from there to the rear end, or any other shape you like, as long as you stay inside the outer cone shown.
With the conical shape and your ultra-black paint, I don't think internal baffles are necessary. If stray light is visible, interior baffles can always be installed.
Mike
-------------------- 56 mirrors, lenses, 16" f/6 Newt, 6" f/10 refractor, TOA-130S, Tinsley 5" f/15 Mak, 6" f/4 RFT, Coronado PST. Still to build: 24" f/10 Modified Dall-Kirkham, 10" f/26 Mak, 8" f/12 apo, spectrohelioscope, Herrig, Schupmann, and a new design you'll like.
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