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Pop-Up Canopy Observatory


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Pop-Up Canopy  Observatory

By: Charles R Genovese Jr  MD     10/2/2017

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Having been born with a “Tinker Gene” it occurred to me some time ago that rather than just cover the adjunct scope equipment with a pop up canopy to prevent the inevitable dew we have here in the South that an inexpensive canopy could be easily modified to make a portable observatory. I built this one last year and I have been very pleased with the result at night and additionally I found it was hugely helpful providing shade for Solar observing and I thought I would share it.

I started with a common 10 foot canopy from Academy Sports that cost less than $100. The brand is not important but the ribs for the top must originate from the corners.  First remove the canopy material and then remove the center spider by removing the screws at the hinge in the middle of the rib which leaves 4 struts that extend from each corner half way to the peak.

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Obtain the following 1” PVC fittings- 2 right angles, 2 in line connectors, 2 T’s and about 8 feet of straight pipe.  I just eyeballed about where the struts would go into the 2 right angles and 2 straight connectors and cut slots with a 4” grinder.

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Next  I cut the connecting straight pieces,  and used a heat gun to soften the two side pieces and bent them to the eyeballed angle.  Finally I cut a slot in the T pieces at the ends. When put together it looks like this :

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and when installed on the frame it looks like this.

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One more view from above:

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Next reinstall the canopy and use a marker to indicate the cuts. Be sure and leave a flap in the center of the cut that can wrap around the PVC frame which is secured with velcro.

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The part to be removed…

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Use 2” Velcro from Loews on the flap and PVC to anchor the canvass.  I sealed the cut edges of the fabric by heating it with a heat gun. This reinforces the corners (cut them a little round rather than a sharp corner- they are less prone to tearing) and keeps the cut edges from unraveling.  Practice on the cut out center piece to get the correct amount of sealing without melting it.

Finally the whole thing needs to rotate. It is easy enough to lift a couple of legs at a time and alternate between each side but I put 2 1/2 “wheels on each corner.  I drilled out the hole in each foot slightly to allow the flange of a ¼-20 T nut to stick through and drilled a similar hole in the mounting plate of each wheel. One washer takes up the slack and a thumb screw completes it.  To rotate the structure of course each wheel is angled about 45 degrees, but if you wanted to move the canopy to another location they could all be turned in one direction, and also when opening or closing the canopy by yourself it is helpful to turn the wheels radially. 

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The last step is to have a cover for the observatory opening. There are several ways this could be done but a present I have a 10x10’ tarp that is loosely held in place with several pieces of light rope tied at the back two corners opposite the slit, with enough slack on the slit side that it can be pulled back enough to uncover the opening. There are two pieces of rope tied to the leading edge of the tarp that covers the slit-one runs to the back and when pulled will uncover the slit and another that runs in the other direction to pull it closed. 

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Pre-cut side walls are also available from Academy and they have Velcro straps that attach to the structure in seconds. I also drilled additional holes for the spring loaded clips in the legs that allow the height to be adjusted lower as desired. Because the walls are relatively high relative to the roof this design works better for scopes on higher piers.

To take it down simply remove the tension fit PVC parts (the canvas and the tarp cover can stay in place) and fold it up- takes about one minute!

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The total cost was only about $150 and only simple inexpensive hand tools were used.

One other alternate use for these canopies is to just remove the roof entirely (better for viewing the whole sky) and just hang the side curtains on the structure for a light shade – both to block neighborhood lights and to use at star parties in order to block the lights from my computer to others. I  had an old extra canopy lying around and made one of those to use at the Deep South Star Gaze (which is in a couple of weeks from this writing).

If there are any questions please PM me.

Charles R Genovese, Jr MD

   


  • BobBates, Chopin, JMP and 21 others like this


18 Comments

These are all excellent suggestions! I particularly like the thought of using such a frame for supporting a light screen (and wind barrier).

 

Thinking along the lines of expanding on such an idea, a large dome tent and fly could undergo a similar metamorphosis. With the floor removed such a structure could be easily repositioned from time to time from within, and even anchored with stakes attached to bungee cords from within. 

 

Good article! You've inspired some good creative thoughts. 

Wonderful DIY project! I have been bouncing around ideas for something like this for years. If I do this, I might go with larger diameter wheels to accomodate rougher terrain.

Thanks for this great article.   I saw your earlier post which referenced this project and was glad to see the writeup.  Good ideas here and I will see what use I can make of them!

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NorthOfBostonMan
Nov 25 2017 10:40 PM

I have got to admit, that is pretty innovative thinking!

 

I bought a tent recently, with a similar idea to make a modification, but never had the guts to pull the trigger. You have inspired me to go ahead and give it a shot!

 

Thanks, and regards.

-Marc

    • BinoGuy likes this

Inspired by this article I realized that pop up canopies come with the top cover detached. I am going to purchase one with a set of side walls. They seem to only take 15 minutes to assemble and provide excellent wind protection up to about 30 miles an hour.

    • Jeffdrew likes this

Just need to add some sides to it. The tent observatories seem to miss the concept of having the telescope below the opening not just to wind and light block the tripod. I am thinking of making something out of PVC and blackout curtains.

    • Jeffdrew and Starboy1959 like this
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charles genovese
Dec 13 2017 08:04 AM

As noted in the article the side curtains are also available at Academy Sports or wherever all ready to attach with Velcro loops at the top and sides. Rather than build a PVC frame consider getting a canopy and just remove the top and use the side curtains. It opens and closes in seconds.. At the Deep South Star Gaze I use this with curtains on three sides to block light from my computer and the forth side is up against my van with the doors open and the side curtain on that side is lifted up over the top of the van and taped in place with blue painting tape to make a covered area. 

Thanks for sharing this excellent idea.  I have the tent that I need but still missing some pieces on how to make it right and this idea is probably the best way moving forward.

Very good idea !  waytogo.gif

In addition to learning from other backyard astronomers, ideas like this is why I enjoy this forum...

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Destrehan Dave
Feb 08 2018 01:46 PM
So can you dispense with the dew heater when you use your porta-dome?

Thanks!

Destrehan Dave
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charles genovese
Feb 09 2018 12:00 AM

Good question neighbor :-)

Hi Dave

First all my metal tube scopes are covered with aluminized bubble wrap (SC's and Newts)- this eliminates tube currents from tube cooling below ambient so there  is less dewing up from the bottom side (I haven't compared scopes side by side so it is anecdotal ). I never use dew heaters - just keep a hairdryer handy when it does happen. The C11 and C14 dew shields are also covered with the bubble wrap to decrease side cooling (in experiments with my C14 years ago I never found the dew heater helped much- the corrector is just too big and the center too far from the heat- but it seems to be amazingly less when wrapped- try it- even with your refractor- especially if you have a metal dew cap. With my Lunt 152ED I have never had the lens dew up with the dew shield wrapped- at least not 'till about 3 AM ).  BTW all my Schmitt- Casses are ventilated with holes in the tubes and or rear cell (except my C5). and they come to thermal EQ as fast as the newts (and refractors for that matter). The corrector in the SC's see the same amount of sky they would without the low ceiling of this tent. So I don't think in that respect it makes much difference. (BTW my C14 in my old 16 foot wooden dome never dewed up). However you may have noticed when out in the open the mounts and everything else get covered with dew down here in our humid South, but under the tent that does not happen. When I used my infra red thermometer one night and the ambient temp was about 35 F when pointed at the sky it was too low to measure (below 0) and when I shined it on my car roof it was about 25. The underside of the tent roof was 35 as was everything in the "shade" of the tent (really negative shade since the sky was the colder black body). Does that answer your question? A big roll of aluminized bubble wrap cost just a few bucks at Lowes.

Charles

Awesome idea about the bubble wrap gonna have to try that. I was just searching for dew heaters yesterday and now I read this.You might have saved me a few hundred bucks thank you sir
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charles genovese
Feb 10 2018 01:39 PM

For your Richie I would recommend a Kendrick dew shield- then wrap that and the scope in bubble wrap- just use blue painters tape to hold it on  to try it - perfect amount of adhesion and never leaves any residue. Let me know how it works - It may never dew up. 

Charles

    • Wwilmoth69 likes this
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charles genovese
Feb 11 2018 07:29 PM

and as for the tube currents in your Mak (works as well for SC's and Newts) here is an article that confirms all that

https://www.cloudyni...jacket-for-mak/

Great read guy's TY for the insight can't wait to make one for the Texas SP.

 

Mike

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charles genovese
Mar 05 2018 08:16 AM

They were selling for $69 at Academy :-)

OK, you get my nomination for tinkerer of the year! Thanks for sharing.



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