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#676 Rac19

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Posted 11 January 2018 - 05:47 AM

Mark II of my cord-wrap free setup below. The NUC Mini PC replaces the Surface Pro 2, Raspberry Pi and Vensmile Mini PC. The NUC is accessed remotely using TeamViewer. The "50 Ah" battery is effectively 50 * 3.7/19 = 9.75 Ah at 19 Volts, still plenty for an image capturing session. I replaced the 2 m USB 2 and USB 3 cables, supplied with the cameras, with 1 m cables. This is a much tidier setup that the original. It all works well indoors, I am now waiting for a clear night to test it in the real world. Noah4x4 and I have been comparing notes on this setup and it was roelb who alerted me to the MaxOak K2 battery.

 

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Setup1.JPG
  • Setup2.JPG
  • Setup3.JPG

Edited by Rac19, 12 January 2018 - 04:30 AM.

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#677 alphatripleplus

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 05:05 PM

For anyone interested, some of the recent ongoing discussions here on wireless EAA set-ups can be found in a new thread here.



#678 Noah4x4

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 07:41 AM

My EAA set up has again moved on; and I am now addressing the question of supplying 'Power' to the Intel NUC Mini Computer, plus Atik Horizon Camera mounted on Hyperstar (not depicted below) and MKIT-20 WL wireless Microfocuser (not depicted). I am still awaiting delivery of the last three items, but this set up works perfectly with my 24 megapixel DSLR.  The Evolution mount does, of course have its own internal battery and I am currently controlling the scope by Skysafari/WiFi/Tablet (but I might switch to ASCOM solutions so I can autofocus etc.).

 

I have now created flexibility for two 'Power' options; whilst avoiding too much messy cabling and tedious set up.

 

1. At home I can use their regular 'brick' adaptors and mains power supplied from my RCD protected circuit to my garden. However,I need a means of keeping them 'waterproof'. OK, we don't tend to do astronomy in the rain, but these do require protection from moisture. Even an observatory has an open roof and dew can be an issue.

 

2. At a 'dark site' where there is no mains power I can use a MaxOak K2 50aH battery (or similar).

 

EDIT; slight change of plan here as there is a question of compatibity between MaxOak K2 and the NUC. See my post at https://www.cloudyni...etup/?p=8338781.  Will replace with a 19v output unit. But this doesnt change the principles.

 

The issues being addressed here are therefore that route (1) means a need to accommodate three plugs/bricks into power sockets whilst route (2) means affixing a seriously big battery to the mount. Either route will mean plenty of cables to tidy. I also wanted these 'bricks' (or battery) to be affixed to the scope off the ground (hence like the rest of my kit safely away from moisture). Whilst Velcro is the astronomer's friend, I wanted a faster, neater more robust solution......hence this;...

 

Using M4 nuts/bolts, I drilled holes and bolted a 330mm x 200mm x 120mm external waterproof socket box to a 400mm x 200mm x 3mm aluminium (hobbyist) plate that I had painted black.  To the reverse of that, I affixed two 38.1mm 'tool clips' (1.5 inch) e.g. the sort of things you might use in your garage to hang up a garden tool (see image inset). These neatly clip to my Evolution's tripod legs (see inset) and because the tripod legs are splayed, simple gravity will hold the entire power unit in place and it can be affixed or removed in seconds. I then added (again bolted) some simple coat hooks to wind the cables around when not in use.

 

Inside the four socket strip is affixed to the protective box by Velcro (just as it is designed to do). The 'bricks' for route (1) plug into that and are neatly concealed in the fully waterproof box. For ventilation I can open the door if I am concerned.  Then, if I want to go to a Dark Sky site and instead adopt power route (2), I just replace the entire socket box contents with the MaxOak K2 battery. But most of the time I am always "ready to go" with route 1 in my garden.

 

I reckon it will take me less than five minutes to move my fully assembled scope to my garden from my office (converted garage); simply clip on this 'power box'  to the tripod legs; unwind and plug in its four cables (to camera; NUC; focuser; mains) and be ready to commence a Starsense auto-align, and adoption of the waterproof box more safely keeps things dry. Making the box removable in seconds means I can easily transport my scope without it overbalancing etc (just clip it on or off). BTW, like RAC19, I am doing all the processing and heavy stuff on the NUC and transmitting to a laptop in my 'Office' using TeamViewer.

 

Telescopepowerbox.JPG


Edited by Noah4x4, 15 January 2018 - 04:38 AM.

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#679 Noah4x4

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 09:33 AM

In the previous post I explained my mains power EAA set up where all the power ‘bricks’ fit neatly into a portable water-proof socket box that clips to the tripod legs.

 

It has been nothing but clouds here for many weeks, so I have used the time to make progress with my ambition of also having a wireless, similarly cable tidy, yet compact, battery powered EAA system for use with a large sensor/many pixel camera. As before, this alternative links up wirelessly to a laptop in my (warm) office using TeamViewer.

 

Telescope6.JPG

 

Key to achieving this goal was the construction of a simple ‘open box’ cradle comprising two sheets of 3mm ‘hobby’ aluminium plate (painted black) and a VESA plate with all parts being assembled using M4 bolts and spacers/washers and Zacfton cable ties. The cost of the parts was under £10.

 

The Intel NUC is bolted to its regular VESA plate as normal and the 12v battery is affixed to the upper aluminium plate by Zacfton cable ties that are bolted to the plate.  Drilling holes in the aluminimum plates isn't difficult. These two (front) plates are then affixed to the back aluminium plate by suitably long bolts + spacers.  The 19v battery powering my NUC simply slots between the plates whilst resting on the hexagonal spacers (n.b. choose spacers to create the right sized gap depending on the size of your battery). Then the entire assembly is then affixed to Evolution mount by two Zacfton cables ties bolted to the back plate (I love these cable ties, so much better than sticky Velcro). If you have a single battery set up you obviously won’t need the upper plate. But I have ended up with two batteries of different voltage (long story!) so this was a bit more challenging.

 

The joy of this particular assembly is that it is very compact and everything rotates with the mount, so no risk of cord warp. Zacfton cable ties (other makes are available!) are basically strong cloth straps. This assembly is easy to build,  incredibly secure yet it is lightweight and doesn’t affect the balance of the scope if you need to carry it fully assembled to its location (as I do from my office/garage). I suppose this comment is relative to the owner’s strength, but compared to the Evolution with a 15lb wedge this is easy to carry.

 

From this simple cradle assembly run just TWO long cables that will also rotate with the mount, so no risk of cord wrap. The first is the USB cable from NUC to camera which might be front (Hyperstar) or rear mounted. The cable is just a simple loop. The second cable runs from the 12v battery to a four socket cigarette splitter. Note that the only other cable directly related to the cradle assembly is the very short one from battery to adjacent NUC. To keep with the tidy cable theme, I use a very short StarSense camera cable (an AVX part) to AUX1 and a cable splitter from AUX2 to extend my HC cable whilst accommodating my SkyPortal external WiFi accessory (my internal WiFi is awful), overall cable management is really neat because of the next step...

 

telescope7.JPG

 

Here, I have affixed the four socket cigarette lighter to the OTA using a long Zacfton cable tie. As it is positioned between the StarSense camera and RACI Finder it is over the OTA centre of gravity and hence has no impact on balance. The joy here is that whether your camera is forward positioned (Hyperstar) or rear mounted the power cable (not shown) from splitter to the device can simply run along the OTA, so it is very easy to keep tidy (yes, you guessed it) with Zacfton cable ties. Similarly any cable from splitter to powered Microfocuser, auto-guider or whatever else you want to add runs along the OTA and when not in use, you just disconnect (no need to remove if you keep your scope fully assembled). Even if you must break up your scope for storage after use it is simple a case of undoing three Zacfton straps to remove the two components (e.g. battery cradle and cigarette lighter splitter).

 

I think this arrangement is about as cable tidy as possible given it has only two long trailing cables (and even they rotate with the mount) and of course, from here it is then totally wireless to my laptop in my warm office via TeamViewer. I hope this approach to the challenge might help others. The cradle assembly took far longer to design than to build, but isn't too challenging once you realise that clamping both bits of metal together (e.g. front and back plates) and drilling through them simultaneously is the way to line up their holes accurately for the assembly of the Hexagonal (screw through) spacers. Similarly, when calculating the (spacer) gap required for the principle battery to go between plates make sure you allow for the screw heads that attach the straps that go around the mount (their fixings need to be no wider than the mount to ensure that the assembly doesnt wobble). The sharp eyed will notice I didn't, but four extra washers resolved the spacer problem.

 

EDIT

I have added another minor refinement that I think is worthwhile;

 

telescope8.JPG

 

Rather than have the battery rubbing against the bolt heads with a risk of it getting scratched I have added a number of small circular self adhesive rubber bits to the inside of the cradle to protect it. I don't know what they are called, but they are normally put on the inside of kitchen cupboard doors and drawers to stop them banging when overly aggressively shut. This image also provides a better idea of the assembly. Note how I had to add additional washers as I didn't allow enough clearance for the bolt heads!


Edited by Noah4x4, 17 January 2018 - 10:08 AM.

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#680 Rac19

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Posted 17 January 2018 - 04:08 PM

The first two images below show the TeamViewer screen of the NUC bolted to my 'scope. The first image is a wide angle view, in SharpCap, using the ASI120MC (acting as an electronic RACI).. The second image is a much narrower view through the 'scope using an ASI1600MC (for image capture) viewed with FireCapture. The third image is from a security camera that I use for "situational awareness" so that I can see what the 'scope is doing. Yes, that is a barbecue in the backgroundsmile.gif.

 

EDIT: The fourth image shows the relative FOV foot prints for the two cameras as estimated by SkySafari.

EDIT: See post #676 for details of the 'scope set-up.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Remote3.JPG
  • Remote5.JPG
  • Remote6.JPG
  • Camera_FOV2.JPG

Edited by Rac19, 17 January 2018 - 04:31 PM.

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#681 mark379

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Posted 18 January 2018 - 11:01 AM

Have you tried the SN8 for EAA as of yet? I just purchased one for use with the Atik Infinity and was wondering if you had any opinions yet?

 

So, here is "first photos" of my newly upgraded Rig. I only just completed initial balancing. Will have to do alignment and Polar, etc tonight, followed by hooking up the Camera, monitor, Telrad, etc...

It *just* balances with 36# of CW right now, I have another 11# CW on its way, which will likely be needed (closer in?) when I add EP, Camera, Telrad, Monitor, anti-dew stuffs, and assorted cabling.

The ADM plates are wondrous, btw! Love em!

It really looks kinda cool all pier mounted and all! Now I'm glad I didn't go with the SN10; the SN8 is a lotta load to hoist up there and get mounted! lol.gif

Enjoy these two views!

SN8, and TMB80SS, ADM Tandem Bar, ADM Dovetails ADM CGE SBS adapter, and ADM 125 Rings, all on my new CGE!

Now it looks like a "real" observatory! jump.gifroflmao.gif

Oh, and if ya look carefully, you can see a "forlorn" Vixen off on the side where she's been shunted until I can pack her safely away in her case for some lucky buyer out there!

Clear enough skies



#682 davidparks

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 10:46 PM

Updates on my ever evolving EAA rig.

 

Album:
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#683 kianjin

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 02:25 PM

This is my old, repurposed equipment case, it used to hold 5 eyepieces, before I caught the "video astronomy/EAA" bug; then it became a case for my Mallincam. Then it held ONE Extreme plus ALL those cables.

 

Now, it's my EAA case, with much smaller, USB cabled gear, I can fit as many cameras as eyepieces I used to have, with a bit of extra room.

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  • eyepiece-case.jpg

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#684 Noah4x4

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Posted 01 February 2018 - 06:39 AM

I have further refined my wireless/cordless EAA set up for an Evolution Mount;

 

Finalimage.jpg

 

1.  I replaced the aluminium sheets with two 3mm x 240mm (height) x 170mm (width) black Perspex sheets to reduce weight. I also wanted to improve insulation between the two batteries and other components.

 

These are far easier to drill and cut and just as strong. Can inexpensively be purchased pre-cut with rounded corners. No need to paint! These are simply bolted together using M4 bolts and 40mm Hexagonal spacers as illustrated. The rear sheet has four slots cut (use a Dremel tool) for the Zacfton cable ties to slide through that go around mount. A small piece of cut foam goes between the assembly and the mount (which helps rigidity and will protect mount casing) .

 

2.  I attached a short length of 40mm polypipe and a connector (which is wider) to the rear sheet using M4 bolts and 10mm hex spacers.

 

This is used to affix my HC cradle (a 9.25" Evo will need wider pipe). A width of 170mm for the Perspex allows room to affix this and microfocuser wireless transmitter. A joy is that the pipe can be used to conceal/manage the Serial to USB adapter/cable to the Intel NUC (n.b. I use Nexremote). It also frees up the Evolution's carry handle for its proper purpose without need to keep removing the HC (that I had previously affixed there).

 

3.  The NUC is then attached to its VESA plate bolted to the Perspex sheets.

 

The NUC is powered by a MaxOak K2 50000 mAH. Just needs a very short cable. I was very nervous about this at 20v for a 19v NUC, but it is working fine.

 

4.  The Tracer 12v battery is used to power camera and focuser motor unit (not shown).

 

This is held on the front plate by two Zacfton straps affixed via four slots cut in the front plate.

 

5. The complete assembly is affixed to the mount using three Zacfton cable ties (these are like velcro straps).

 

One of the straps passes through the back plate of the four way cigarette lighter connector. This was previously on the OTA, but there is room to be affixed here in a neater combination.

 

The entire assemply now rotates with the mount so no cord wrap (the Evolution has its own internal battery). Most cables are either short or concealed inside the pipe (2). The longer 12v power cable and USB3 cable from Camera/Hyperstar runs down the OTA to the power splitter and NUC. hence, nothing 'dangles'. The power cable to wireless motorised focuser runs along OTA (again nothing dangling).

 

I have now abandoned using TeamViewer (too much lag) in favour of Windows 10 Pro and its superb Remote Desktop (you only need install this on the NUC). I am still awaiting delivery of my focuser motor, Hyperstar and Atik Horizon camera (been waiting since the start of December!), but it all works fine with my 24 megapixel DSLR. If you are looking for a compact EAA rig with no trailing cables this is arguably as neat a solution as possible. I did try to find some Perspex boxes to screw to the plates, but couldn't find the sizes necessary and this open cradle design also aids ventilation.

 

Because the complete assembly affixes with just three Zacfton straps, it is easy to set up and break down. But I leave my scope fully assembled and this is still light enough to be carried a short distance (much lighter than lugging the Evolution 8" with a 15lb wedge!). Also by affixing all tightly to the upright mount over the centre of gravity it is easy to carry 'caber style' using two hands and the OTA resting on your shoulder. I hope this helps others as the typical spaghetti of cables is a menace. The single cable that can be seen dangling is that from splitter to Tracer battery that in operation would be connected. As nothing in the assembly is more that 300mm apart, only two long cable are required (e.g. power to camera and USB3) that are affixed to OTA by Zacfton cable ties (I love them! better than simple velcro).


Edited by Noah4x4, 01 February 2018 - 07:00 AM.

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#685 Noah4x4

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 06:59 AM

Now that my Hyperstar, Atik Horizon and MKIT-20WL wireless autofocuser have been delivered my "cordwrap free, wireless, whilst everything rotates with mount"; EAA set up is complete. See the previous post for details on the DIY 'cradle'.

 

IMG_0891.JPG

 

I did hope to add the autofocuser wireless receiver to the 'cradle', but it is larger than I envisaged. So I have neatly affixed it to to the top of the OTA between Starsense camera and RACI Finderscope using Zacfton cable ties. This image now shows the rig fully laden with all required cables. Running these down the OTA and concealing any excess cable inside a length of polypipe (to which the HC is affixed - see my previous post) makes a great contribution to general cable tidyness.

 

It also illustrates the benefit of the Intel NUC and my Perspex DIY 'cradle' (see previous post). If I was instead using a regular laptop there would be a requirement for a table and a myriad of tangling USB cables between laptop and rig. Also the two batteries are sufficiently lightweight to rotate with the mount yet with enough 'ooomph' for six hours.

 

Here, most of the equipment is wholly self contained and I can undo just three straps and the entire 'cradle' assembly can be removed. I don't actually need this break-down convienience as I leave my rig fully assembled (except camera/Hyperstar) and carry my rig the ten yards from my observatory/office (e.g. converted garage!)  to its location and despite being fully laden with gizmos this rig is much lighter than when I had a 15lb wedge.

 

It's all now working as it should. The most challenging thing now is remembering to switch on all the components before I retreat to my warm office where I can control everything on a laptop (using Windows 10 Pro Remote Desktop).  Now when will these clouds vanish to get some EAA activity going.......


Edited by Noah4x4, 08 February 2018 - 07:08 AM.

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#686 Roberti

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 03:05 AM

Now that my Hyperstar, Atik Horizon and MKIT-20WL wireless autofocuser have been delivered my "cordwrap free, wireless, whilst everything rotates with mount"; EAA set up is complete. See the previous post for details on the DIY 'cradle'.

 

attachicon.gif IMG_0891.JPG

 

I did hope to add the autofocuser wireless receiver to the 'cradle', but it is larger than I envisaged. So I have neatly affixed it to to the top of the OTA between Starsense camera and RACI Finderscope using Zacfton cable ties. This image now shows the rig fully laden with all required cables. Running these down the OTA and concealing any excess cable inside a length of polypipe (to which the HC is affixed - see my previous post) makes a great contribution to general cable tidyness.

 

It also illustrates the benefit of the Intel NUC and my Perspex DIY 'cradle' (see previous post). If I was instead using a regular laptop there would be a requirement for a table and a myriad of tangling USB cables between laptop and rig. Also the two batteries are sufficiently lightweight to rotate with the mount yet with enough 'ooomph' for six hours.

 

Here, most of the equipment is wholly self contained and I can undo just three straps and the entire 'cradle' assembly can be removed. I don't actually need this break-down convienience as I leave my rig fully assembled (except camera/Hyperstar) and carry my rig the ten yards from my observatory/office (e.g. converted garage!)  to its location and despite being fully laden with gizmos this rig is much lighter than when I had a 15lb wedge.

 

It's all now working as it should. The most challenging thing now is remembering to switch on all the components before I retreat to my warm office where I can control everything on a laptop (using Windows 10 Pro Remote Desktop).  Now when will these clouds vanish to get some EAA activity going.......

I'm looking forward to seeing some results from this setup!waytogo.gif



#687 Noah4x4

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 05:35 AM

 

I'm looking forward to seeing some results from this setup!waytogo.gif

 

Might be waiting a while. The weather is just ghastly and it has been for two months. Belting down with rain today.


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#688 LaCasaCorp

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 12:24 PM

Just finished to clean my new EAA setup (its actually an hybrid between AP and EAA):

 

MVIMG 20180216 120340

 

- Borg 90FL with F4 reducer

- ZWO ASI294PRO

- QHY mini quider scope with QHY5-III-290M

- ASCOM motorized focuser (mostly 3D printed, electronics and software based on what published on DIYFocuserPro2)

- 12V Li-ION battery (for mount and focuser)

- 12V Li-ION battery (for camera and miniPC, not in the picture)

- 12V DC-DC voltage stabilizer (the Skywatcher mount is very sensitive regarding power supply voltage)

- HP EliteDesk mini PC (core i5, 8GB ram, SSD, they are dirt chap on Ebay)

- Assorted 3D printed bracketry and supports

 

I'm quite satisfied, all the cabling is static with the exception of the focuser spiral cable and the three cables for the camera (those wrapped in the nylon braiding) to minimize the risk of accidents.

 

MVIMG 20180216 120437
 
MVIMG 20180216 120413
 
MVIMG 20180216 120349

 


Edited by LaCasaCorp, 16 February 2018 - 04:38 PM.

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#689 Sthlm

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Posted 20 February 2018 - 03:24 AM

Hi!

I saw that you also have post pictures with a c8 hyperstar. Which one do you prefer, the apo 90mm or c8 hyperstar?

Just finished to clean my new EAA setup (its actually an hybrid between AP and EAA):


- Borg 90FL with F4 reducer
- ZWO ASI294PRO
- QHY mini quider scope with QHY5-III-290M
- ASCOM motorized focuser (mostly 3D printed, electronics and software based on what published on DIYFocuserPro2)
- 12V Li-ION battery (for mount and focuser)
- 12V Li-ION battery (for camera and miniPC, not in the picture)
- 12V DC-DC voltage stabilizer (the Skywatcher mount is very sensitive regarding power supply voltage)
- HP EliteDesk mini PC (core i5, 8GB ram, SSD, they are dirt chap on Ebay)
- Assorted 3D printed bracketry and supports

I'm quite satisfied, all the cabling is static with the exception of the focuser spiral cable and the three cables for the camera (those wrapped in the nylon braiding) to minimize the risk of accidents.









#690 LaCasaCorp

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Posted 20 February 2018 - 09:20 AM

Hi!

I saw that you also have post pictures with a c8 hyperstar. Which one do you prefer, the apo 90mm or c8 hyperstar?
 

Just finished to clean my new EAA setup (its actually an hybrid between AP and EAA):


- Borg 90FL with F4 reducer
- ZWO ASI294PRO
- QHY mini quider scope with QHY5-III-290M
- ASCOM motorized focuser (mostly 3D printed, electronics and software based on what published on DIYFocuserPro2)

[snip]

 

They are fairly different setups that, unfortunately, i didn't had the possibility to test side to side under the same sky (to compare the image quality)... my 2 cents:

 

APO 90

  • Portability, no comparison with the C8 (especially if you take a scope like the Borg that can be disassembled)
  • Easier on the mount because of the weight and inertia. It's a very easy load on the skywatcher, as you can see from the counterbalnce position
  • Wider field (if you are into it)
  • Probably sharper images (i will try to do a side by side, with the same sensor, as soon as i can)
  • Still have to try planetary and see if the barlows are allowing decent results

 

C8 Hyperstar

  • Flexibility, you can image at F2, F6.3 and F10 for planetary (probably other ratios as well, with other reducers
  • F2 is great, you can see so much with minimum exposures
  • Smaller field of view than the APO
  • A large sensor like the ASI294 with the C8 hyperstar has significant vignetting, i didn't tried yet the automatic flat compensation in Sharpcap on it but i expect will work nicely. (taking flats with the C8 hyperstar is a way more difficult process than in a small APO... fortunately for EAA purposes you need it to take it only once)

 

For me, the cler winner is the APO, because portability is everything for me (the Borg setup can be easily loaded on a plane in a hard case, a duffel bag and the scope in my cabin luggage). But... did i say that F2 is great?


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#691 Sthlm

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 02:51 PM

 

Hi!

I saw that you also have post pictures with a c8 hyperstar. Which one do you prefer, the apo 90mm or c8 hyperstar?
 

Just finished to clean my new EAA setup (its actually an hybrid between AP and EAA):


- Borg 90FL with F4 reducer
- ZWO ASI294PRO
- QHY mini quider scope with QHY5-III-290M
- ASCOM motorized focuser (mostly 3D printed, electronics and software based on what published on DIYFocuserPro2)

[snip]

 

They are fairly different setups that, unfortunately, i didn't had the possibility to test side to side under the same sky (to compare the image quality)... my 2 cents:

 

APO 90

  • Portability, no comparison with the C8 (especially if you take a scope like the Borg that can be disassembled)
  • Easier on the mount because of the weight and inertia. It's a very easy load on the skywatcher, as you can see from the counterbalnce position
  • Wider field (if you are into it)
  • Probably sharper images (i will try to do a side by side, with the same sensor, as soon as i can)
  • Still have to try planetary and see if the barlows are allowing decent results

 

C8 Hyperstar

  • Flexibility, you can image at F2, F6.3 and F10 for planetary (probably other ratios as well, with other reducers
  • F2 is great, you can see so much with minimum exposures
  • Smaller field of view than the APO
  • A large sensor like the ASI294 with the C8 hyperstar has significant vignetting, i didn't tried yet the automatic flat compensation in Sharpcap on it but i expect will work nicely. (taking flats with the C8 hyperstar is a way more difficult process than in a small APO... fortunately for EAA purposes you need it to take it only once)

 

For me, the cler winner is the APO, because portability is everything for me (the Borg setup can be easily loaded on a plane in a hard case, a duffel bag and the scope in my cabin luggage). But... did i say that F2 is great?

 

Very interesting to hear your experience! How do you find focus, do you find it easy?

 

I am looking forward for the comparison  



#692 alphatripleplus

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 02:59 PM

Guys, the purpose of the "Post a picture of your Assisted Visual Setup" thread is to show a picture - with some explanation of the components  - of your set-up. In general, one follow-up question is fine, BUT if you have a series of questions that you want to ask or discuss, either start a new thread or ask via PM. I hope that is clear.


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#693 jgraham

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Posted 25 February 2018 - 04:38 PM

This is my recently reforked 10” f/6.3 wide field LX200GPS equipped with the Revolution Imager 2 video camera. The RI2 is mounted along with its 0.5x focal reducer on the end of the long nosepiece and initial estimates of the field of view suggests that the final system is all the way down to about f/2.3ish. I hope to get a more accurate measurement of the field of view as soon as I can take a peek at a reference target like the moon. This is still a bit of a work in progress, but so far it has worked surprisingly well as it is a bit easier to setup than my SN10/Atlas (f/2.6) that I was using before.

 

LX200GPS 10in f6_3 (2-25-2018)-1.jpg

 

If the overall performance is similar to my SN10 then I should be able to reach my photographic skyglow limit of about magnitude 18ish, meaning that everything that I can see from my backyard will be with reach. Pretty spiffy for a camera that can only take 5 second exposures.


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#694 Stargazer3236

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Posted 25 February 2018 - 04:53 PM

This is my recently reforked 10” f/6.3 wide field LX200GPS equipped with the Revolution Imager 2 video camera. The RI2 is mounted along with its 0.5x focal reducer on the end of the long nosepiece and initial estimates of the field of view suggests that the final system is all the way down to about f/2.3ish. I hope to get a more accurate measurement of the field of view as soon as I can take a peek at a reference target like the moon. This is still a bit of a work in progress, but so far it has worked surprisingly well as it is a bit easier to setup than my SN10/Atlas (f/2.6) that I was using before.

 

attachicon.gif LX200GPS 10in f6_3 (2-25-2018)-1.jpg

 

If the overall performance is similar to my SN10 then I should be able to reach my photographic skyglow limit of about magnitude 18ish, meaning that everything that I can see from my backyard will be with reach. Pretty spiffy for a camera that can only take 5 second exposures.

You show a lot of pics of your telescopes, especially Cat's. How many scopes do you own and what are they?



#695 jgraham

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Posted 25 February 2018 - 05:47 PM

Good question, and to be honest I don't know the answer, but I always seem to be one short of too many. :)

 

I spent my first 30 years as an amateur astronomer building my own scopes, averaging about 1 per year, from a little 4.25" f/8 in 1968 to my 16.5" f/6.5 in 1998. I have since been working the used market, and although I now own a lot of scopes, most of them have been assembled from bits n'pieces from here'n there. In this case the tripod, OTA, and mount all came from different sources on the CN classifieds. I tell my wife that this is how I'm saving up for my retirement. :)


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#696 Rac19

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 03:53 PM

This is an update on my current EAA computer screen setup, "Mission Control". It is an image of the RDP screen from an Intel NUC mounted on the scope.

 

Repeatable alignment of the "electronic RACI" is proving to be challenge. I seem to have to check the alignment at the start of every session.

 

I am now looking for an on-screen GoTo application. I have tried using Stellarium but can't get to to synch with 'scope. I am thinking of trying Cartes du Ciel.

Attached Thumbnails

  • MissionControl1.jpg

Edited by Rac19, 28 February 2018 - 05:22 AM.

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#697 tomas_mojzis

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 08:54 AM

My updated setup after year of EAAing smile.gif . During cloudy fall and winter I have made some upgrades.

 

2018 Update

 

 

Mount: SW EQ-8 (Updated from EQ-6)
Scope: SW Quattro 10in f4 modified (250/1000)
Scope Modifications: Stock focuser exchanged with Starlight FeatherTouch, Vixen dovetail upgraded to Losmandy level dovetail, Focuser area enforced, Stronger secondary spider (to be done)
Camera: Atik Infinity Mono
Corrector: ES HR Coma Corrector
Filterwheel: Atik Manual Filterwheel 5x1.25in
Filters: Hutech IDAS LPS-P2, Astronomik CLS, Astronomik CLS CCD, Astronomik UHC, Astronomik L-2 IR/CUT, Astronomik RGB Deepsky Set, Baader Moon&Skyglow IR/CUT, Astronomik CLEAR (ordered), Astronomik ProPlanet 642 IR Pass (ordered)
Focal Length with Coma Corrector: 1060mm
Resolution with Atik Infinity and Coma Corrector: 1.25"/px

Guiding solution: Orion Guidescope 50/162 wiht ZWO ASI120MM and PHD2 / used for exposures longer than 30s, but still used as electronic finderscope.

Polar Alignment Solution: QHY PoleMaster

 

Everything is controlled by laptop and accessed from remote desktop inside house through Powerline Ethernet.

 

This is semi-permanent setup in my backyard, I use TElegizmos 365 telescope cover and my dog and homeworking neighbour as a guard smile.gif Permanent setup is my project for this year.

 

Tomas


Edited by tomas_mojzis, 07 March 2018 - 03:10 PM.

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#698 gun4hire

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 12:08 AM

Sky Watcher 120 Pro and proprietary .85 focal reducer. ZWO 224. Celestron CGEM. 8 inch dew heater strap wrapped and held with astronomy quality gorilla tape smirk.gif.  I will be adding a 60mm guide scope and guide camera in a week or so. The scope was put out to cool down so no wires hooked up just staged and ready to go. I sit at a card table and use a laptop in the tent. A small electric heater keeps it warm.

 

Yes that is what SNOW looks like... I have nice horizon to horizon views with a skyglow about as 1/2 way up to Polaris to the north. S,E,W... nice and dark.

 

Nothing fancy...but it works for me. The clouds in the bottom photo came to screw up the night.mad.gif

 

 

gallery_10674_8958_50539.jpg

 

gallery_10674_8958_73114.jpg


Edited by gun4hire, 09 March 2018 - 12:15 AM.

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#699 Stargazer3236

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 08:34 AM

I like the pop up tent from Thunderbay. I researched online and found a few that I might purchase for next years winter. I would only use a two person, but would be great for imaging and EAA since I HATE the cold weather.



#700 gun4hire

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 12:58 PM

I have a 3ft x 3ft card table in it. That is a little clunky. I will find a smaller table for winter 2.0 lol.gif  There is no floor in it. I like that since you would tear up a traditional tent floor. You can spin it around or adjust it... AND if you want to use it for ice fishing...it would work. I would recommend an old piece of carpet or something to keep your feet off the frozen ground. My feet eventually got cold...but that can be fixed.

 

It is not made with cheap tent material. It is a thin cordura like fabric with a backing of tent material. I should you tube me trying to take it down!! comical. It looks MUCH easier watching others do it on the interweb....I must have issues.....

 

https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Edited by gun4hire, 12 March 2018 - 01:03 PM.



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