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#7151 selfo

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Posted 10 November 2018 - 09:40 PM

Having some more widefield fun with a 80mm 0.63 FR APO riding piggyback on a LX200 GPS Alt Az.  This time I have stacked a IRUV cut filter onto a Omega DGM NPB Nebula filter.   While getting a good color balance can be tricky it does an amazing job with improving the contrast and reducing the star bloat in my LP skies.
All pics done with a ASI 385 uncooled with a Master dark using Sharpcap 3.2

 

 

Western Veil 65frames 650s

 

gallery_251523_9516_486252.png

 

 

 

 

Eastern Veil 80mm  Stack 49frames 490s

 

gallery_251523_9516_1923808.png

 

 

 

 

Pacman 97frames 970s

 

gallery_251523_9516_1259605.png

 

 

 

    
North American 71 frames 710 seconds

 

gallery_251523_9516_75010.png

 

 

 

 

Crescent Nebula 77frames 770s

 

gallery_251523_9516_224100.png


Edited by selfo, 10 November 2018 - 11:41 PM.

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#7152 Brian_S

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Posted 11 November 2018 - 08:53 AM

I am confused...I would enjoy getting into video from visual...and I am somewhat new to video..

 

Is there anybody out there in Video world who can compare the Atik Infinity video camera to the Mallincam DS10c camera...

 

I am a newbie and would like to purchase a camera which offers simplicity..

 

Thank you,

 

Willis Sutherland

CAV

Willis,

 

The 10C is a high resolution camera (10 megapixel) using the Sony IMX 294 back-illuminated imaging chip. This is a big chip measuring 21.63mm horizontally. Back-illumination makes the camera very fast and sensitive, to it has video-camera like performance, coupled with the ability to take high-quality images at longer exposures. The camera uses a single USB connection (USB3, though is is backward compatible with USB2) and the control software is very easy to use. Another advantage is that is has absolutely no amp glow. I have the standard version of this camera, but there is a cooled version available which pretty much eliminates the need to use dark frames for long integration images at high gain. It can produce higher-resolution images than the Atik and, given my experience with very high sensitivity cameras like the Mallincam Xterminator II, is probably significantly more sensitive for video applications.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Brian



#7153 nic35

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Posted 11 November 2018 - 09:43 AM

Willis

You might want to start a new topic with your question, so more folks will know what you are interested in.

If you are an Atik software fan - which many people love for its simplicity - then you might consider the Atik Horizon. It's more like the Mallincam.

The 10c uses a sensor that is used in many cameras. ZWO, Risingcam, Mallincam, QHY and now Orion. a topic is currently open that discusses some aspects of the 10c and its competitors. See https://www.cloudyni...10ctec-is-here/

There are pluses and minuses associated with most variants.

John

#7154 Craig Goble

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Posted 11 November 2018 - 01:15 PM

Willis-

I don't have any experience with the Mallincam but I have owned an Atik Infinity Color for almost a year. Having previous owned an SBIG traditional AP camera, I have to say that the Infinity when paired with it's very easy to use software is just plain fun by comparision!The Infinity allows you to take and stack short exposures with good results on most deep sky objects with little or no post-processing. However, it is not a cooled camera so noise/hot pixels can quickly become an issue when imaging in the warmer months of the year. It is also not designed for planetary imaging.

Hope that helps and enjoy your camera research!

Craig

#7155 Stargazer3236

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Posted 11 November 2018 - 02:45 PM

I was debating whether to go out last night or not. It was very cold, light wind, excellent transparency and lousy seeing. I opted to head out, albeit around 9pm, instead of at 6pm.

 

Setup as follows: Nexstar C8 on a ZEQ25 mount, ASI294MC camera w/ UHC filter + UV/IR filter, Laptop with SharpCap 3.1 Pro using histogram stretch, sigma clipping, color adjustment; screen capture followed by JPEG conversion and image cropping. Pzoom refers to Percentage zoom used. Saving program in screen capture does not like the special characters like %.

 

Mouse over each pic to see capture details. All objects can be found in Sky Safari 6 Plus or any Sky Safari app (I run mine on Amazon Fire HD10).

Attached Thumbnails

  • ngc2440 1x1bin 50 pzoom 360gain 34x15s.jpg
  • ugc 3697 455gain 1x1bin 41x15s 50 pzoom.jpg
  • ngc2346 350gain 1x1bin 30x15s 50 pzoom.jpg
  • ngc2261 hubbles var neb 1x1bin350 gain 31x15s 50 p zoom.jpg
  • ngc2261 hubbles var neb 1x1bin350 gain 28x15s 75 p zoom.jpg
  • ngc1514  455 gain 1x1bin 29x15s 40 pzoom.jpg
  • ngc 2264 1x1bin 360gain 30x15s 20 pzoom full frame.jpg
  • m1-7 380gain 1x1bin 40x15s 75 pzoom.jpg
  • ic2165 328gain 1x1bin 30x15s 100 pzoom.jpg
  • hdw5 450gain 1x1bin 44x15s 40 pzoom.jpg
  • haro3-29 r455gain 2x2bin 40x125s 75 pzoom full frame.jpg
  • haro3-75 543 gain 1x1bi 40xc15s 75 pzoom.jpg

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#7156 Herschel400

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 12:09 PM

I was debating whether to go out last night or not. It was very cold, light wind, excellent transparency and lousy seeing. I opted to head out, albeit around 9pm, instead of at 6pm.

 

Setup as follows: Nexstar C8 on a ZEQ25 mount, ASI294MC camera w/ UHC filter + UV/IR filter, Laptop with SharpCap 3.1 Pro using histogram stretch, sigma clipping, color adjustment; screen capture followed by JPEG conversion and image cropping. Pzoom refers to Percentage zoom used. Saving program in screen capture does not like the special characters like %.

 

Mouse over each pic to see capture details. All objects can be found in Sky Safari 6 Plus or any Sky Safari app (I run mine on Amazon Fire HD10).

David...nice work!

 

question on gain...what were the conditions/reasons that required the higher gain settings on NGC 1514...455, UGC 3697..455, Haro 3-75 ...543, and hdw5..450....all of which had 15s exposures

 

thanks

 

Herschel 400



#7157 Stargazer3236

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 01:16 PM

I changed gain settings when trying to reveal inner detail on planetary nebula. Sometimes higher gain gets the halo details, but over exposes the center region. And lower gain gets me finer, intricate detail in the center on the planetary nebula but sometimes sacrifices Halo detail. Also, sometimes when I focus using the bahtinov mask, I ramp up the gain to max, so I can see the star pattern through the mask and forget to lower the gain before I start imaging.



#7158 Herschel400

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 03:51 PM

thanks David...wasn't sure if it pertained to  detail of a certain part of the image or if it had to do with surface brightness of the object

 

all the best

 

Herschel



#7159 cmooney91

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 09:37 PM

Over the weekend I finally got my Vixen Super Polaris OnStep conversion working. The sole purpose for this project was to do EAA with my lightbridge mini 114. Until now I did not have a tracking mount so I was limited to wide field EAA with short f.l. CCTV lenses on a fixed tripod (still very fun).  Now with the telescope I can can explore a little deeper and study individual objects.

 

The resulting fov of the 114mm x 450mm f.l. scope paired with the RT224s 1/3 sensor is pretty utilitarian (~0.6°x0.4°), a little small for the big stuff and a little big for the small stuff, but all around good. For my fist foray into telescope EAA it went very well, little to no frustration.

 

Here is Andromeda M31 5000Gain 4s 25frames 200s

gallery_280529_10253_6008.jpg

Words can't describe how thrilled I was to see the gritty dust lanes in such detail in a matter of seconds. I can't wait for the future galaxies to come!

 

 

After taking a good long stupefied look at Andromeda I pried myself away to visit the Orion nebula. I had some configuration issues with my first test of OnStep that night, and I had to find the nebula manually. I had the camera set to max gain and 1s exposure for star hopping/framing when the big beautiful  full color nebula appeared on screen, I was not expecting that kind performance from the scope+camera combo. The framing shots themselves were beautiful, but I started playing with the live stack.

 

I had a lot of fun with this one; I was changing the exposure between 2, 4, & 8s  during the stack to approximate an HDR effect.

I think it helped.

 

M42 5000Gain multi length 124s total

gallery_280529_10253_86001.jpg

I still can't believe this isn't a google search result...

 

While I was in the area I tried for the horsehead nebula. I had to star hop slew to get it in frame, but I love star hopping so it was fun.

 

HorseHead 5000Gain 8s 45frames 360s

gallery_280529_10253_65408.jpg

 

With the wide field cctv lenses I was able to detect the "dark tombstone" at a tiny image scale, but now with the little telescope I can definitely make out the  detailed shape. Incredibly cool!!!

 

 

I can't wait for another clear night.


Edited by cmooney91, 14 November 2018 - 07:03 AM.

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#7160 alphatripleplus

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 10:55 PM

Nice pics, Corey. It's good to see another person happily using a Super Polaris mount for EAA.smile.gif


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#7161 Herschel400

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 12:17 PM

I am confused...I would enjoy getting into video from visual...and I am somewhat new to video..

 

Is there anybody out there in Video world who can compare the Atik Infinity video camera to the Mallincam DS10c camera...

 

I am a newbie and would like to purchase a camera which offers simplicity..

 

Thank you,

 

Willis Sutherland

CAV

hello confused

 

Too start in EAA, I suggest either the ZWO ASI 224 color or the ZWO ASI 290 mini mono....good reliable vendor, these are reasonably  priced at the low end, with very capable sensors and plenty of help available on Cloudy Nights  if you have questions

 

to start with i suggest SharpCap SW..even version 2.9... which is now free will get you going

 

Herschel 400



#7162 GoFish

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 03:05 PM

hello confused

 

Too start in EAA, I suggest either the ZWO ASI 224 color or the ZWO ASI 290 mini mono....good reliable vendor, these are reasonably  priced at the low end, with very capable sensors and plenty of help available on Cloudy Nights  if you have questions

 

to start with i suggest SharpCap SW..even version 2.9... which is now free will get you going

 

Herschel 400

Agree with this suggestion (but I like to see color so I’d favor the 224).

 

Based on my experience with the 224, a scope with effective focal length around 700-800 mm is nice for galaxies, globulars, planetary nebula, and some small open clusters. Don’t go more than 1000 mm or your FOV gets too small and your stars bloated. Shorter focal lengths will work fine, too, but I love observing galaxies and PNs and for those you need some focal length!

 

I did not get satisfactory results using a 0.5 reducer, though others apparently have. 

 

A focal ratio of f/5 or lower is also nice. 


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#7163 Stargazer3236

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Posted Yesterday, 12:10 AM

You can avoid bloated stars, by placing an IR/UV block filter in front of your camera. This gets rid of bloaty stars in your EAA pics.

 

Using an F/6.3 reducer corrector is fine for wider field EAA imaging. You can get a bit lower F ratio by putting a spacer between your camera and the reducer/corrector. You can even get down to F/5 and with the reducer corrector, you will get corrected images with virtually no coma at the edges of your field of view.



#7164 Stargazer3236

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Posted Yesterday, 12:12 AM

I have also tried double stacking Meade F/6.3 reducers back to back, but it creates a very narrow field in the center of the field of view and produces noticeable coma at the edges of the field, but it gives me an F  ratio of about F/3.7.




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