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#7576 jdaliix

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Posted 26 September 2019 - 09:59 PM

I had two really good sessions of viewing the last couple nights. The scope is a Celestron 11 Edge on a CGX mount, camera ASI294 Pro Color using the latest version of SharpCap, and a Mallincam Universe x.5 reducer for f/5. Gain was 370, manual color settings, binning 2, a dark applied, temperature at -23C. All images were stacked live, 25 second exposures or less, and all 4 and 8 minutes or so of total exposure time. All were saved as viewed and cropped for tracking borders and gamma adjusted to match what I had live on my 40" 3D plasma TV. I mention this because the images' background brightness on my laptop doesn't quite match the best settings for viewing on the plasma TV. I viewed twice this many objects, but these were the cream of the crop.

 

B 143 - This was my first successful dark nebula other than the Horsehead Nebula

 

B143-12k.jpg

 

IC 1396 - part of the Elephant Trunk

IC1396-12k.jpg

 

Cocoon Nebula

CocoonNeb-12k.jpg

 

NGC 247

NGC247-12k.jpg

 

IC 59

IC59-12k.jpg

 

 

SH 2-88

SH2-88-12k.jpg

 

 

 

Continued...


Edited by jdaliix, 26 September 2019 - 10:15 PM.

 

#7577 jdaliix

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Posted 26 September 2019 - 10:10 PM

Continued from previous post.

 

IC 1318

IC1318-12k.jpg

 

NGC 6946

NGC6946-12k.jpg

 

Partial Pelican Nebula

Pelican-12k.jpg


 

#7578 FrankG

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Posted 28 September 2019 - 02:01 PM

Still learning my way around Sharpcap - anyone know why Helix is so green in the screen grab below? It was pointed out to me that there is usually more blue and red than green. Took these this week at the ECVAR video astronomy star party near Galax (is there a better name for a star party town?!), Va. with an ASI294 on my 15" dob. Had to dial the blue down when starting out that night. I'd think that was the reason except you can see the pink and blue just fine in the shot of M20. Was using RAW16, did that have anything to do with it? Any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Frank

Attached Thumbnails

  • Besthelixstats.JPG
  • BestM20stats.JPG

Edited by FrankG, 28 September 2019 - 02:22 PM.

 

#7579 jdaliix

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Posted 28 September 2019 - 02:18 PM

Still learning my way around Sharpcap - anyone know why Helix is so green in the screen grab below? It was poinyted out to me that there is usually more blue and red than green. Took these this week at the ECVAR video astronomy star party near Galax (is there a better name for a star party town?!), Va. with an ASI294 on my 15" dob. Had to dial the blue down when starting out that night. I'd think that was the reason except you can see the pink and blue just fine in the shot of M20. Was using RAW16, did that have anything to do with it? Any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Frank

Hi, Frank. In my fairly extensive experience with SharpCap, you have way too little blue on the histogram. I know why you were were doing that. It's because you had blue set too high in the Camera Settings >> White Balance. So, if you bring down the blue in the White Balance settings and get your curves/peaks to be more aligned (e.g., on top of each other) in the live stack histogram, you won't have to adjust the blue as far down in the histogram color settings. Your shot of the Trifid is also too green. The other nebula is blue. If you get the white balance correct and your live stack histogram curves/peaks are on top of each other, then try resetting the histogram color channels and taking red and green down a little. I think you'd be happier with the quality of the black.

 

Also, although this note doesn't apply in this case, if you're dealing with any kind of sky glow from any source, moon, street lamps, a nearby town, a thin film of cloud, etc., chances are the glow will translate to being more green. It does on my Celestron 11, ASI294 and SharpCap.

 

Does all that make sense?


Edited by jdaliix, 28 September 2019 - 02:23 PM.

 

#7580 FrankG

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Posted 28 September 2019 - 02:20 PM

Hi, Frank. In my fairly extensive experience with SharpCap, you have way too little blue on the histogram. I know why were were doing that. It's because you had blue set too high in the Camera Settings >> White Balance. So, if you bring down the blue in the camera white balance settings and get your curves/peaks to be more aligned (e.g., on top of each other) you won't have to adjust the blue as far down in the histogram color settings to offset the white balance output. Your shot of the Trifid is also too green. If you get the white balance correct and your curves/peaks are on top of each other, then resetting the histogram color channels and taking red and green down a little, you'd be happier with the quality of the black. If you're dealing with any kind of sky glow from any source, moon, street lamps, a nearby town, a thin film of cloud, etc., chances are the glow will translate to being more green. It does on my Celestron 11, ASI294 and SharpCap.

Thanks!


 

#7581 saguaro

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Posted 29 September 2019 - 11:09 AM

Also, you can check the "Logarithmic Horizontal Axis" option in the live stack histogram, which will have the effect of spreading out your histogram on the horizontal axis which allows you to make adjustments to the histogram (move the black, mid, and white levels) much easier.


 

#7582 wargrafix

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Posted 30 September 2019 - 02:38 PM

I really need to get a cooled camera. Dark applied can give amazing results. and then on a random stack give terrible results. Getting really tired of that.

like badly.

Until then....

 

Celestron 9.25@f6.3 + ASI224MC

Darks applied. 16seconds subs

 

Tip of the veil nebula

Stack_46frames_736s_WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_110437.jpg

 

Stephen's quintet

 

Stack_61frames_976s_WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_637402.jpg

 

NGC1535

Stack 408frames 816s WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_731784.jpg

 

M33 core

Stack 265frames 4240s WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_802767.jpg

 

Portion if the Crescent nebula

Stack 140frames 2240s WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_250864.jpg

 

M78 core

Stack 62frames 992s WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_68900.jpg

 

At first it looked really nice, and I had taken fresh darks so it was looking really good....then there was a blue noise that never really went away. ove even reducing the stretch did not help. Stretching it made it less worse, but this is really bad

 

Horsehead nebula

Stack 652frames 10432s WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_549276.jpg

 

After you have been blinded, here is a little eagle to soothe your eyes.

 

Pillars of creation

Stack 133frames 2128s WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_802335.jpg


 

#7583 Barkingsteve

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Posted 02 October 2019 - 07:02 PM

A couple from tonight's session.

Captured in sharpcap pro, 294mc pro at -5 with idas p2 filter

130 pds on evolution mount, master dark and flat applied

saved as viewed ( with display stretch ) resized, cropped and saved as jpeg.

 

M27  29 x 15 second frames @ 150 gain

 

m27Stack_29frames_435s_WithDisplayStretch.jpg

 

Caldwell 14  29 x 15 second frames @ 150 gain

 

Stack_29frames_435s_WithDisplayStretch.jpg


 

#7584 GoFish

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Posted 03 October 2019 - 08:31 AM

Here’s an old friend. I always have mixed feelings when Orion is rising in the early morning, because it means winter is right around the corner. 

 

OTA:  StellarVue SV102 ED Access with SV 0.8 reducer/flattener

Camera:  ASI294MC Pro @ -5C

Filter:  Astronomik T2 IR blocking

Mount and control:  Atlas EQ-G, EQMOD, Cartes du Ciel, AstroTortilla

Capture:  SharpCap Pro 3.2, stack saved with adjustments (downsampled and converted to JPG in PS, no processing)

 

This, of course, is M42, the Orion Nebula. First night out using the SV102ED for EAA. Gain = 300, 12 frames @ 30s =  3 6 minutes total, no darks, no flats. [EDIT - fixed the total time]

 

m42-Stack_12frames_360s-resampled.jpg


Edited by GoFish, 03 October 2019 - 02:48 PM.

 

#7585 wargrafix

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Posted 08 October 2019 - 10:08 PM

You are quite right. Some of these nebula are clar reminder of the change in season.

 

Here is Hubble variable nebula 2019 edition

Shot with the Celestron 9.25 @f6.3 auto guided

Sharpcap pro

 

Short 5 mins.

 

Stack 19frames 304s WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_53451.jpg

 

Longest version

 

Stack 340frames 5440s WithDisplayStretch

 

med_gallery_218407_321_1022052.jpg


 

#7586 Stargazer3236

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Posted 09 October 2019 - 11:43 PM

NGC 6781, taken on Sept 27/28 from near Boston, MA. Bortle 6-7 skies, super clear night, minimal dew, NO mosquito's.

 

Nexstar 8SE OTA, ZEQ25 mount, ZWO ASI294MC camera, L-eNhance 2" filter, SharpCap Pro 3.2.

 

Auto Display Stretch, Sigma Clipping, Darks, Unsharp Masking, Bilateral noise reduction, Horizontal Logarithmic Axis, 15 sec subs x 20 (5 minutes), 405 Gain, Bin 2x2.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Stack_24frames_600s_WithDisplayStretch_6781.jpg

Edited by Stargazer3236, 09 October 2019 - 11:44 PM.

 

#7587 sudeepban

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Posted 15 October 2019 - 06:44 AM

M2 globular cluster, on 10/14 from an hour north of NYC. Second outing with my imaging setup. I think the focus could have been better (focus motor might need to be the next purchase) and the nearly full moon probably didn't help.

Nexstar 8SE (stock mount), ASI294MC Pro, Celestron f/6.3 reducer, SharpCap 3.2.

10 sec subs x 10 (100 seconds), 400 Gain.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Stack_10frames_100s_WithDisplayStretch_resized.jpg

Edited by sudeepban, 15 October 2019 - 07:04 AM.

 

#7588 alphatripleplus

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Posted 21 October 2019 - 12:06 AM

I just moved to Georgia from New Jersey and now have a pretty clear view towards the south. I took the opportunity earlier this evening to have my first EAA session in GA, and used my ancient set-up - Lodestar X2 mono, with a 7mm H-alpha filter and an Orion ST80 achromat reduced to f/4.0 (using a Meade f/6.3 reducer). Captures were taken with Starlight Live v3.3. Here are a couple of captures of M17 with total exposures of a minute or less; no darks taken this evening:

 

M17; 1 x 30s

 

M17.Ha_1x30s_ND_2019.10.20_21.26.35.jpg

 

(The central region of M17 is so bright in H-alpha that it is overexposed in this single 30 sec view)

 

 

M17; 6 x 10s

 

M17.Ha_6x10s_ND_RS_2019.10.20_21.33.47.jpg

 

Cutting the subs to 10sec, shows some detail in the brightest parts of the nebula.

 

I also included some other views in an old thread  here, on what can be seen in 60sec or less total exposures in H-alpha.


 

#7589 cmooney91

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Posted 21 October 2019 - 12:30 PM

This past weekend I had my first light with my new-to-me Bresser 208mm F3.9 Imaging Newtonian.  I tried to use a  cheap 0.5x focal reducer but it was pretty ugly at 0.6X (F2.3), so I shot at the native 812mm focal length. My mono IMX290 resulted in 0.74"/px and my IMX224 results in 0.95"/px.  I hope to try the reducer again with less spacing, or get a 0.7x reducer.

 

This scope is technically too big for my Super Polaris GEM, but it's all I have so I made a unadvised 25lb counter weight from a gym weight, and gave it a shot. The mount is definitely strained and has higher friction, but the motion is reasonably smooth. I was relieved to see that the tacking was good enough for the short 8s I use for live stacking with SharpCap.

 

I was very surprised that the OnStep controller was able to land almost all of the objects within the small 20'x16' FOV.

 

 

These have been cropped and compressed to reduce file size.

 

M27 3500Gain 8s x79 =316s

gallery_280529_12021_29705.jpg

 

NGC7331 Gain3100 8s x 38 =304s

gallery_280529_12021_125110.jpg

 

NGC6888 Crescent Neb Gain3500 8s x 81 =648s 

gallery_280529_12021_64510.jpg

 

NGC 6946 Firworks Gx  Gain3500 8s x 125 = 1000s

gallery_280529_12021_12084.jpg

 

I'm really happy with the results, and I can't wait to hunt down some tiny ARP galaxies and planetary nebula with this set up.

 

I just wish the ASI294 and ASA/T-S 0.73X reducers weren't so expensive... one can dream.


 

#7590 alphatripleplus

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Posted 24 October 2019 - 08:00 AM

Here are a couple more views of the bright summer emission nebulae in H-alpha using the same set-up from a couple of nights ago - Orion ST80 achromat, Lodestar X2 mono, Orion 7nm H-alpha filter, Starlight Live vs 3.3, no darks taken - but I captured without a reducer at f/5.1 for this achromat (with a H-alpha filter):

 

First, the Lagoon Nebula, M8, single 15s capture:

 

M8.Ha_1x15s_ND_f5.1_RS_2019.10.23_20.18.55.jpg

 

(Shows some detail in the central region that is even more blown out in longer subs)

 

For comparison, a slighly longer capture - still only 1 minute total exposure:

 

M8; 2 x 30s

 

M8.Ha_2x30s_ND_f5.1_RS_2019.10.23_20.25.06.jpg

 

Next, and last, the Trifid Nebula, M20

 

M20; 2 x 30s

 

M20.Ha_2x30s_ND_f5.1_RS_2019.10.23_20.38.25.jpg

 

 

I included other views of these two targets in an older thread on what can be seen in H-alpha in 60 seconds total exposure .


 

#7591 saguaro

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Posted 24 October 2019 - 11:14 AM

I recently got an Optolong L-Enhance filter. I'm really liking this filter! It's easy to get a good color balance for SharpCap live stacking, as long as I use a master dark that has the same color balance as used for the light subs (I'll be doing this from now on with all my filters).

 

14Edge with Hyperstar (F/2), 1600GTO mount, ZWO 1600MC-C camera, and SharpCap live stacking with master flat and master dark. Saved as viewed, converted to JPG for posting.

 

California Nebula, 21x30sec

California-Neb-LEnhance-21x.jpg

 

Screenshot

California Nebula LEnhance ss+1.jpg


 

#7592 saguaro

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Posted 24 October 2019 - 11:16 AM

One more; same equipment as above with L-Enhance filter.

 

Western Veil, 38x30sec

 

Western-Veil-38x30sec.jpg


 

#7593 GoFish

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Posted 24 October 2019 - 11:44 AM

One more; same equipment as above with L-Enhance filter.

 

Western Veil, 38x30sec

 

attachicon.gif Western-Veil-38x30sec.jpg

Wow. 


 

#7594 FrankG

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Posted 25 October 2019 - 06:58 AM

See post #7578 (above). Last month Helix had too much green and not enough red and blue - turned out the blue slider was all the way right. I put it back in middle this month and while I got a lot more red, still a lot of green where should be blue. Can you spot what I'm doing wrong? Not the only image had a green tint to it that night, thought not all of them did. Any advice greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks, Frank

 

cloudy.JPG


 

#7595 GoFish

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Posted 25 October 2019 - 08:38 AM

I’m still finalizing(?) my thoughts on color balance using SharpCap. There are 2 leading contenders in the competition currently:

  1. Set the white balance sliders at 50/50, and the offset at 10. This seems to match the defaults that pop up in other software when using the ZWO ASCOM driver. Then use the color sliders in the live stack window to get a pleasing balance. Many times I will use the SharpCap automatic background color balance button (below the color sliders in the live stack window) as my starting point, then tweak to taste. Or ...
  2. Set the white balance sliders to give a neutral background (peaks of R, G, B lines in display histogram line up) for a representative image, then leave them alone for the session (or maybe across sessions). Then make small tweaks in the live stack window. 

The advantage of option 1 is you can make a library of darks. Maybe even a library you can share across imaging applications (jury still out on this). 

 

The advantage of 2 is that live images look good even if not stacking. Less tweaking is needed in the live stack window. 

 

In your screen capture I see that you haven’t made any tweaks in the live stack color sliders?  Try adjusting these to get the 3 peaks of the histogram approximately lined up in the display histogram (small one at the lower right that is not visible in your screen capture), then tweak as needed. The sliders in the live stack window are REALLY sensitive and it can be hard to make small adjustments. I hope Robin will address this in future updates. 


 

#7596 roelb

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Posted 25 October 2019 - 04:54 PM

I’m still finalizing(?) my thoughts on color balance using SharpCap. There are 2 leading contenders in the competition currently:

  1. Set the white balance sliders at 50/50, and the offset at 10. This seems to match the defaults that pop up in other software when using the ZWO ASCOM driver. Then use the color sliders in the live stack window to get a pleasing balance. Many times I will use the SharpCap automatic background color balance button (below the color sliders in the live stack window) as my starting point, then tweak to taste. Or ...
  2. Set the white balance sliders to give a neutral background (peaks of R, G, B lines in display histogram line up) for a representative image, then leave them alone for the session (or maybe across sessions). Then make small tweaks in the live stack window. 

The advantage of option 1 is you can make a library of darks. Maybe even a library you can share across imaging applications (jury still out on this). 

 

The advantage of 2 is that live images look good even if not stacking. Less tweaking is needed in the live stack window. 

 

In your screen capture I see that you haven’t made any tweaks in the live stack color sliders?  Try adjusting these to get the 3 peaks of the histogram approximately lined up in the display histogram (small one at the lower right that is not visible in your screen capture), then tweak as needed. The sliders in the live stack window are REALLY sensitive and it can be hard to make small adjustments. I hope Robin will address this in future updates. 

+ on 1

concerning the live stack window sliders, just click above or below the set value and small increments will be applied


 

#7597 alphatripleplus

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Posted 02 November 2019 - 11:44 AM

I was out last night playing with my C6  on a few DSOs at my new location.  Before the dew beat my dew heater, I grabbed a couple of captures of M33. Equipment was: C6 operating at f/4.0, with twin stacked Meade f/6.3 reducers, no filters, no darks, and my old Lodestar X2 mono using Starlight Live 3.3 for captures.

 

I was surprised to easily see several H-II regions in M33 - even in a single 30 sec exposure:

 

M33; 1 x 30s

 

M33_1x30s_ND_f4.0_RS_2019.11.1_22.58.55.jpg

 

The largest H-II region is the supergiant complex NGC604 towards the NE at about 10 o'clock. However other H-II regions are visible in this single 30s exposure including, NGC588, NGC592 and NGC595 on the western side at about 3 o'clock as well as IC entries etc.

 

For a smoother and deeper view, I stacked a few captures for a total exposure of 180s:

 

M33; 6 x 30s

 

M33_6x30s_ND_f4.0_RS_2019.11.1_23.07.14.jpg


 

#7598 sudeepban

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Posted 05 November 2019 - 07:50 AM

Here's a shot from Nov 3, from an hour north of NYC with my 8SE, ZWO 294 MC Pro, Celestron f/6.3 reducer, and SharpCap 3.2. Image is brightened a tad, cropped and resized.

 

Fireworks Galaxy (NGC 6946); 53 x 8 seconds, 450 gain

Stack_53frames_424s_WithDisplayStretch_resized.jpg


 

#7599 Forward Scatter

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Posted 06 November 2019 - 09:54 AM

Outstanding!

 

Here's a shot from Nov 3, from an hour north of NYC with my 8SE, ZWO 294 MC Pro, Celestron f/6.3 reducer, and SharpCap 3.2. Image is brightened a tad, cropped and resized.

 

Fireworks Galaxy (NGC 6946); 53 x 8 seconds, 450 gain

attachicon.gif Stack_53frames_424s_WithDisplayStretch_resized.jpg

Outstanding!


 

#7600 alphatripleplus

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Posted 06 November 2019 - 10:50 AM

Just for the fun of it, I tried to do as close to an apples-to-apples comparison in terms of what I can "see" doing EAA with my C6 from my old Bortle 8-ish location in NJ (from a couple of years ago) versus the new Bortle 4 location in GA (from a few days ago). Scope and set-up were the same,  with identical exposures on the same  target (NGC6946) and no filters (however there was a 50% moon low in the southern sky in the NJ pic). C6  was operating at f/4.0 (twin stacked Meade f/6.3 reducers), no dark frames, Lodestar X2 mono using Starlight Live 3.3 software:

 

NGC6946 (from Georgia - Bortle 4) ; 6 x 30s

 

NGC6946_6x30s_ND_f4.0_RS_2019.11.1_22.38.07.jpg

 

 

NGC6946 (from New Jersey - Bortle 8) ; 6 x 30s

 

 

NGC6946_6x30s_ND_f4.0_RS_2017.9.27_20.53.25.jpg

 

 

Other than the huge reduction in LP down here, it looks like I have a new dust bunny to take care of.


 


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