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Restoring and Repainting Classic Telescopes

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#76 woodsman

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 05:39 PM

Hi Lew:
That is one terrific picture. Is it ok to download it to my computer and perhaps send it out to people I know? I have a few friends that like to see those large scopes. BTW, have you ever had a chance to view through it?? Rich

#77 Lew Chilton

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 09:33 PM

Rich, thanks for asking, I appreciate it. Sure, go ahead and share it.

Yeah, I did have a chance to look thru the 10-inch Zeiss at Jupiter, but we were seeing-limited on that particular night. Caveman's 50mm Nippon Kogaku wasn't nearly as sensitive to the seeing, so it was an outstanding performer and gave views of Jupiter that were very memorable.

Caveman had a chance to use the 10-inch Zeiss over a couple of nights, so could probably provide a better evaluation of it than me.

#78 woodsman

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 10:05 PM

Lew,
I'll download that photo. Its truly impressive. Wow, too bad about the seeing with the 10 inch. A chance like that doesn't come along too often. So, how would you rate the Nippon Kogaku compared to your Swift 839? I would imagine that you'd have to be side by side. I know that Clint's certainly sold on them. They do seem to be well designed, but then so are the Swifts IMO.

#79 Lew Chilton

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 02:36 PM

Rich,

Sounds like a shootout between the Swift and the Nippon Kogaku is in order. I've only looked thru Clint's 50mm Nippon Kogaku once at Jupiter (see the thread "Amazing Full Moon Star Party"). He has the 50mm and a 65mm. My Swift is 60mm. The test should be conducted at the same time and place with the same star diagonal and eyepieces.

From what I heard of the Nippon Kogaku's performance (mostly from Clint! :lol:), I'd say that the Nippon Kogaku will edge out the Swift, although I hope I'm wrong.

I suggest we have the shootout next summer at Mt. Pinos, during one of those free-for-all star parties.

#80 Vesper818

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 02:49 PM

Now that would be and interesting Shootout!
Lew, I think one time you mentioned that you had had the paint matched to
touch up your 839. Do you have a brand, or color number? Was it brush
on, or spray?
Many thanks!
Carol

#81 Lew Chilton

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:02 PM

Hi Carol,

It's brush-on. I took a part of the Swift to the local Ace Hardware store and they color matched it on a computer. Really cool to watch! The smallest quantity they will mix is a quart. I haven't used it yet, but I'm sure it will be a very close match, if not identical.

-Lew

#82 woodsman

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Posted 22 February 2009 - 09:32 AM

Hi Lew,
I'd like to be there for the shootout. I'd definitely put my Swift 831 up against his Nippon (might not be fair, the 831 is 77mm), 'cause it does beat out any other refractor I own in that smaller range. I'm going to have to check it against my 90mm Sears Royal Astro, that could be a close fight. After viewing through my Swift one afternoon and having my own shootout with 3 other fairly good refractors, I'm pretty convinced that the Swift is in a category by itself. Perhaps I'll find out tonight, its supposed to be clear and unseasonably warm nights the next few days, so my C14 might just have some smaller company out in the dark, dark skies of eastern Colorado...

#83 astronomy-shoppe.com

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 01:01 PM

Beautiful job on all of the restorations Barry.. Home depot and Walmart have a computer to match paint. I haven't try'd them yet,
the last Unitron we did was " Ford White" base and then mixed from there.. I agree that it is very difficult to match the original paint..

Tony C

#84 KHH

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 04:15 PM

Hello! I am new to this forum. I have been given a telescope by an old friend quite a few years back. I pretty much took it for junk until I recently saw it was a Sears Discoverer Model #34550. I know that Sears stuff is sometimes valuable. It has a few dings that I would like to get repaired. So my questions are; 1) Is it worth anything 2)Does any one repair these any more?

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 02:06 PM

I've got question for anyone who has used Krylon enamel. If applied correctly, according to temperature, relative humidity conditions, and if timing between coats of enamel is done more or less according to directions printed on the spray can (all top coating done within 1 hour), what should be the expected type of finish with this product?

Yesterday I primed my dewshield with Krylon primer, three coats of gray primer with about ~25 or so minutes between each. After the last primer coat had dried for about 40 minutes, I began top coating. I actually ended up applying four coats of gloss white enamel to cover sufficiently. Each top coat had only about 2, maybe 3 minutes between them. I was shaking the spray can often. I ended up with no running or sagging.

My question is this: What should I expect with Krylon enamel regarding the type of finish? When I look at the dewshield from a short distance it looks shiney. However, when I get quite close, with my glasses on, the finish, in the light, appears like many tiny, even bumps. The top coat is very evenly applied, just not nearly as smooth as professional. Now, is this because of my fault, did I take too much time between top coats? Is this just the way Krylon product is? I didn't get a "wrinkle", nothing like that, just not a real smooth finish.

Thanks,
Bruce

#86 Vesper818

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 02:24 PM

Hi Bruce
I've had good luck touching between coats with a very fine wet/dry sand paper, then wiping down with a tack cloth. Let dry for a few minutes, then apply the next coat. Finish with a couple coats clear coat.
For smaller parts and tubes, an hour baking in the oven, at about 175-200, hanging on wires from the top grate works really well. I preheat the oven past 200, turn back down and set the parts in. Switch the "Timed bake" to turn the oven off in an hour. That way it rarely goes back on, and it can be let to cool on its own. Don't forget to turn on the fan to vent the house .The finish is hard, smooth and immediately usable.
I have the advantage of kitchen diva, so I clean the oven after use and don't have to ask anyone's permision.
Sorry if this sounds like a recipe... I just listed one for porkchops on another forum...

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 02:59 PM

Carol,

Were you using enamel for this? If so, then you must have had to let each enamel coat dry for quite some time before sanding?

Did you actually "wet" sand? 400 grit, or finer?

I have the dewshield out in the sun today (already dry to touch). In my discouraging mood, I had a spell of "oh, go ahead, what do you have to lose", and sponged water over the dewshield. I figured that perhaps the finish would even out better - (water intensifies sun??!!). Now, as I looked at the wet surface, I noticed that the finish looked more like smooth professional surface (~like the inside surface of a conch shell). So, is THIS the way enamelled tubes looks so smooth? By using a clear coat (~like water) over top coat color? Is it that enamel, by itself without a clear coat, doesn't have an absolutely glassy surface finish?

I painted just yesterday. According to the directions on the spary can, if additional coats aren't done within 1 hour, then you have to wait 5 days. So,,,I can apply a clear coat directly over this enamel, no prep required, in 5 days?

As for oven baking, it won't work for me. Scope in question is a long focus 4 inch.

Thanks,
Bruce

#88 tim53

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 03:01 PM

Bruce:

It sounds like your coats are going on a bit "dry". Ideally, you'll lay the stuff on just short of running or sagging, but that's obviously not a fun place to be when it actually does run.

I used Rustoleum's comparable chemistry paint on my son's electric guitar body this past weekend, and I found it very difficult not to "orange peel" the finish. It was hot and sunny on Saturday, so when we top-coated it with clear on Sunday we did it in the morning and in the shade of the house. The finish came out great, even smoothing out much of the orange peel of the color coat underneath.

-Tim.

#89 Vesper818

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 03:09 PM

Hi Bruce
If you didn't put on the clear coat, its probably best to wait the 5 days. I use enamel and wait almost an hour between coats, then very lightly buff with 400 grit or finer just to smooth it out, then wipe with tack cloth. 3 coats is usually fine . 2 coat of clear coat have not seemed to require sanding between. I just sand, wipe, spray, hang up and set the timer to go to something else for an hour.
If you can't bake it, its been advised to let the scope parts cure for a month or so before assembly and mounting. I have a little 50mm with mooshed paint under the mount brackets to attest to that.

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 03:37 PM

Tim,

So the answer to my situation probably isn't my painting technique. Rather, I should finish it with a clear coat? Normally, even the best applied enamel isn't as smooth as when using a clear coat?

Bruce

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 03:40 PM

Carol,

So,,in ~5 days or so I should fine sand the existing white enamel surface, run a tak rag over it, make sure it's dry, then apply two coats of clear? My main question here is, I need to sand the existing enamel surface before applying the clear?


Thanks again,
Bruce

#92 tim53

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 04:05 PM

Tim,

So the answer to my situation probably isn't my painting technique. Rather, I should finish it with a clear coat? Normally, even the best applied enamel isn't as smooth as when using a clear coat?

Bruce


I don't think so. In my case I think I would have gotten smooth results whether I sprayed color or clear on Sunday morning (in the shade, cooler morning). This might actually be the first time I used a clear coat for anything that wasn't lacquer.

-Tim.

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 08:53 PM

Tim,

Actually, I painted on a fairly cool day in the garage.

I've been using all Krylon products, so I looked up clear coats that they sell. I think I've got the right one. It's spray acrylic crystal clear gloss. I should use a gloss for the clear coat?

Bruce

#94 Vesper818

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 09:09 PM

Sounds like it will turn out very nice, Bruce. The clear coat does sort of fill in and even things out.
Please post pics when you have it done!

#95 tim53

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 11:57 PM

Hi Bruce:

One of the coats I tried on my son's guitar I shot in the garage. It was really hard to see how I was doing because of the light from outside. Working in the shade of the house was much easier for me.

I think Carol's right, too. The clear seems to flow out better than the colors do.

-Tim.

#96 rwiederrich

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 10:03 AM

The chemistry of the paint can be an issue if application instructions are not followed.

You can re-over coat most paints after the initial coat is dry to the touch...within 10min.

If you apply light *dust* coats of gloss enamel..you will not achieve the *gloss* you're looking for. As mentioned earlier..it is nearly at the point of runs that you get the nice shine...if the paint's chemical shine is what you're after. I rotate my tubes to prevent any runs, drips, errors... :smirk:

If you wait to reapply paint..you should wait a week or two before reapplying...because the solvents used to propel the paint can act as a desolving solvent on the existing application...and result in ripples or *crinckles*.

Clear coat is designed to *fill* micro ripples and *stipples*. I recommend light sanding with a green *Scotts* pad between coats. What this does is not remove paint material but knock down micro bubble edges and small raised areas. It also acts to prepare the surface for a mechanical bond to the new coat.

I use auto clear coats...because of their hardness and shear shine. Of course I apply several light coats and I do not sand between the second to the last coat of the clear coat.

Crinkles appear when the paint is not sufficiantly bonded to the subsequent layer and the new applications transport solvents act to loosen the pre-cured layer.


I have let my 12" 14ft tube stand/rest painted for two weeks(the weather has played a role). When it cleares..I will take it out of the shop..mount it on its paint roller system...lightly sand it with green Scotts pads and then apply the final clear coats.

That's how I do it and I have lots of experience painting automobiles.

There are plenty of techniques to doing it...choose the one that works best for you and good luck.

Rob

#97 upfyrman

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 09:56 PM

I'm new to this forum and have read a lot of what is great information. I still own my Meade 826 8" Newtonian that I purchased in 1979. It has been retired for some time now and I may restore it someday. A lot of good ideas here, thanks.

#98 Starlighter

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 10:55 PM

Jim,

Nice avatar. Funny how a fair number of people who are amateur astronomers are also model railroaders. Here is part of my collection, and Espee (Southern Pacific) is a major player in my collection.

Barry Simon


Funny how that is. My Lionel S-1 Duplex:

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#99 Bob Myler

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 08:37 PM

How many wheels on that sucker?

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 12:47 PM

It's been almost three weeks since I painted (with enamel) scope tube and dewshield. I've been thinking of possibly light wet sanding and clearcoating two coats of acrylic clear gloss. I haven't clear coated yet because the weather has been dark and wet for a long time now.

I am planning on not reasembling scope until one month has passed (soon approaching). If I were to clear coat now, would I have to wait another month, from the time of applying clear, to reassemble scope? Or, Because enamel itself has cured fully, and because clear is acrylic, should I be able to use scope after, say a week or so?

Thanks,
Bruce


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