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Restoring and Repainting Classic Telescopes

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#126 droid

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Posted 25 May 2010 - 12:49 PM

and................after

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#127 mustgobigger

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Posted 25 May 2010 - 03:25 PM

:waytogo: looking good.

#128 mikey cee

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Posted 25 May 2010 - 03:27 PM

Andy....The difference between night and day!! In my mind much much more "professional looking" too. :waytogo:Mike

#129 starrancher

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Posted 25 May 2010 - 04:38 PM

and................after


Oh Carl ! ......You've changed ! :shocked:

:lol:

#130 826C $

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 10:23 PM

I have a Meade 826 recently purchased at a garage sale. I've got some work to do but I think can eventuially create a very nice resto. I want to sand the tube down to the skin. And repair dings and repaint. Any tips for the tube material to use for repair? I think the tube is a fiberglass/fiberlite material. I'd really like to do this one right.

#131 optec

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 04:14 PM

Having only just come across this thread i am finding it most uesfull for my scope restoration.
Does any know what colour code the 1980's Vixen fluorites were, looking at my scope the colour appears to be off white almost cream

R

#132 jsiska

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 06:49 PM

Optec,

Here is what my late 1980's SP-C102F use to look like before I changed the focuser to a Moonlite focuser and the mount to a GP-DX mount. The Vixon stickers I got from Vixen North America before they went out of business. I placed them just underneath the orange Celestron stickers.

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#133 optec

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 03:10 AM

Hi jim, Mine is very similar, being a Super Polaris fl 102s
It's white or off white, not really sre what the colur is.
Very nice mount you have there as well.
My stickers are different also, not having the rounded lines; just the word VIXEN!
Ray

#134 jsiska

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 11:53 AM

Optic,

I just reread your post three posts back.

“Having only just come across this thread i am finding it most uesfull for my scope restoration. Does any know what colour code the 1980's Vixen fluorites were, looking at my scope the colour appears to be off white almost cream”

In the 1980’s Vixen made the fluorite telescopes for Celestron. Those Celestron telescopes were painted black as shown in my photo above. The Celestron fluorites (C102F) had a 900mm focal length and the focal ratio was rounded to f/8.8. I have a 1994 Astronomics catalog that has the C102F offered as a GP-C102F. By 1994 the Vixen SP mounts had apparently been replaced by the GP mounts; hence, the slight designation changes from my late 1980’s scope. In 1994 the focal length was still listed at 900mm. This 1994 catalog photo shows that the OTA color was still black.

I also have a Vixen Co., LTD catalog from 2003 that shows a Fluorite scope called a GP-FL102S. This telescope has a Focal length of 920mm for a focal ratio of f/9 and the OTA is painted white.

I own a 1960 Tasco 7TE which needed to have the finder scope repainted. I took the OTA and the finder to a powder coating shop. I figured that powder coating would help the finder scope get fewer scratches in the finish from the finder scope bracket adjustment screws. The powder coating shop had a multitude of color samples to select from. With the helpful eye of the powder coater’s wife in selecting several close colors, the shop was able to powder coat the finder scope with a color that perfectly matched the original color of the OTA.

#135 optec

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 02:03 PM

Hi Jim; thanks for the reply, Yes Vixen did indeed make for Celestron and i believe they were black, they also made the FL102s 920mm f9.0.
However they did make the FL102s in the eighties 900mm f8.8 which is of course is the scope i own, in White, i am supprised that your cataloge does not show it.

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#136 jsiska

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 02:28 PM

My Astronomics catalog is from 1994. Maybe they started making them in white sometime after that; or maybe, for the U.K., and in other markets they sold them in white under the Vixen not in the Celestron name. Never-the-less you sure surprised me.

#137 optec

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 02:34 PM

Yes Jim, it does seem to be a rare beast, not that it's worth any more or less than the celestron version but the Vixen f8.8 does seem less usual.
i have contacted Vixen to try and trace the serial # but to no avail, they are hopeless at suport for the earlier models.

Ray

#138 mikey cee

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 11:18 AM

For those newbies that are reading this thread this was my take on whether or not to restore. The object of my efforts was this improperly stored Tasco 20TE. It sat for approximately 15 years in an unused club observatory......the victim of aperture fever! http://www.cloudynig...ll/fpart/1/vc/1

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#139 sebcol

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 11:52 AM

Hello,
Thank you very much for posting all these great information.
I have a Astro-Physics telescope 6" F/8 made around 1987-1988 i inherited from a old friend.
The lens is in perfect condition however the telescope tube has many scratches and is missing some paint at some locations.
Some holes in the tube are patched with tape.
I plan to re-paint the tube and i am trying to figure out the following:
- what is the code paint i should use as well as what is the best paint for that job.
-How did you mask the lens and focuser openings to prevent the paint to reach the inside of the tube?
-Another issue i face is how to patch the holes in this aluminum tube. The holes are not very big, 5mm at the most.
Any response on these questions are more than welcome!
SeB

#140 astro140

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 12:10 PM

Is it a blue painted tube or white painted Astro-Physics telescope?
Steve
NM

#141 R Botero

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 01:56 PM

SeB

Try the AP yahoo group for answers on this if you have a blue OTA. If white, I recently had my 1991 152mm f/7.5 Starfire EDF painted with RAL9010 white which is an international standard colour code compatible with the whites given here:
http://tech.groups.y...g/message/33722

Hope that helps! :smirk:

#142 sebcol

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 03:47 PM

I got a answer from AP today regarding the paint code.
The tube is white and the paint code is Corvette white Mfg 40 or WA8554.
Still trying to figure out the best option for the paint brand is should use and how to patch these holes :)
Thank you.
SeB

#143 BarrySimon615

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 07:07 PM

Patching tube holes -

1) The smaller the hole, the better.

2) I would use JB Weld as my patching compound. It is a two part mix which is very strong and sands easily plus it holds paint very well.

3) If it is a straight hole with smooth sides I would run a tap thru it to cut grooves in the side of the holes to better lock in your patch.

4) Tape the bottom side (inside of the tube) of each hole. Lay in some JB Weld and smooth the surface using a single edge razor blade. Keep the patch level for at least 3 or 4 hours as the JB Weld sets up and hardens. Sand smooth after 24 hours. If your repair has a shallow depression, lay in a bit more new JB Weld and repeat this step.

5) Remove the tape from the inside and either leave alone or build up slightly with a little more JB Weld. After 24 hours you can sand lightly and you are done except for some flat black on the inside (I like Krylon Ultra Flat Black) plus touch up painting the area of the fix on the outside, or repaint the whole tube exterior.

Here is a photo which shows part of a tube cradle rebuild. The cradle had been modified by a previous owner with numerous new threaded holes in the bottom of the cradle. I filled and sanded those holes with JB Weld as per my directions above and also restored threaded holes in their original positions (standard separation for a Unitron mount). When painted you cannot tell that it had ever been repaired.

Barry Simon

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#144 sebcol

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 12:56 AM

Hi Barry,

Thanks for helping.
The repairs made on this tube cradle are impressive :)
Just to make sure the JB weld will hold when used with aluminum?

Thank you.

Seb.

#145 BarrySimon615

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 08:43 AM

Hi Barry,

Thanks for helping.
The repairs made on this tube cradle are impressive :)
Just to make sure the JB weld will hold when used with aluminum?

Thank you.

Seb.


Absolutely! A friend of mine, whose family had an AAMCO Transmission franchise in my area introduced me to JB Weld. I mentioned his work because he was the technical guy who rebuilt all of the transmissions. He told me that some of there customers were pretty cash straped and could not afford new major transmission parts. If it was a housing or a pan that was cracked it would be repaired using JB Weld. After 24 hours of curing, the transmission would be put back together and refilled with fluid and the customer would be sent on his way. My friend "Joe" told me that these repairs held up very well.

Here is another photo of a JB Weld repaired telescope tube. This is the stripped tube of my 3" f/18.4 Milo refractor. When received the tube was badly crushed in two places. I used a tail pipe expander to push out these major indentations and then used JB Weld to fill in the ripples and to repair other minor tube imperfections before priming and painting. The repairs have held up very well.

Barry Simon

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#146 BarrySimon615

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 08:50 AM

Here is the "Milo" again after painting and reconstruction with "grab ring" added using existing tapped holes. Can be restored to stock appearance in about 5 to 10 minutes.

Barry Simon

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#147 droid

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 01:07 PM

Barry, simply gorgeous, love the handle

#148 sebcol

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 02:07 PM

Hi Barry,
I patched two holes applying the method you described with the JB weld and it worked great!
Thank you!
Seb

#149 sgorton99

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Posted 02 November 2015 - 06:44 AM

Recently went through the powder coating decision on my Unitron 150 OTA, dew shield and finder. While I thoroughly agree and try to keep things original on this circa 1955 Unitron, the paint would literally fleck off with just a fingernail. Sometimes I thought if I looked at it wrong when set up the paint would fall off...

 

I have never had anything powder coated before, so just Googled local shops and sent an email to the 3 that came up with what I was wanting to do and asked for rough estimates. Two got back to me right away, but 1 was twice as high as the other. The cheaper one had nice examples and reviews on their website, and asked me to call him to discuss the details. After talking to him, he said to bring it by so he could check it out. So, took it in on Monday after spending 2 hours over the weekend stripping parts. If you are familiar with the 150, the interior hardware is not easy to get out!

 

Here is a before pic of the OTA. The bare metal areas can be made bigger with just your fingernail.

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#150 sgorton99

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Posted 02 November 2015 - 06:53 AM

He called me after a couple days and was working on stripping it and had some questions on threads and the interior. He ended up hand sanding the OTA after chemically stripping because he said he was worried about getting material in the OTA if he media blasted. He was worried it would never get totally out and cause problems with the optics down the road. 

 

The original screws were also done one by one. He only charged $1 for each screw, and had to do each one individually out of the OTA. He also was able to mostly save all but the last few inches on each end of the tubes for the OTA and the finder. The dew shield is totally bare inside now, so I am going to try flocking it instead of painting flat black.

 

Here is a pic of the finished OTA, which I picked up Thursday (only 4 days later). Also a pic of the scope all back together. I have rattle can painted smaller scopes, but highly recommend powder coating on your bigger projects you really care about. The outside pictures look really white, but that is more because of the sunshine and the camera. 

 

Steve

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Edited by sgorton99, 02 November 2015 - 06:55 AM.

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