Yet another Orion 80ED find a home....
Posted 23 October 2003 - 07:10 PM
Quick daytime impression - optics look good, quality of construction is fair. The dew shield has two *tiny* paint chips on the edge, and (get this) the crayford sometimes *squeaks* when you focus, but does work smoothly. It also appears to hold my heavy eyepeices with a 2" diagonal when pointed at zenith.
It's large for an 80mm scope, as others have reported, it's the same size as the 100mm OTA, so if you are thinking of getting one and need rings...
The dew shield slides off, and it all fits nicely into a stellarvue C5 case - the dew shield fits into one of the "large" holes like it was made for it.
Optically? Well, I can't say a lot because I haven't had it under the stars yet.
There *appears* to be slightly *less* false color than in either my SDF or TV102 (on second thought change "slightly less false color" to "similar amounts of false color"). But there are lots of things things that matter more than false color. It appeared to hold daytime magnification well (up to 150x+), and I'm interested in seeing the star test. Ain't gonna happen anytime soon - rain, rain and more rain in the forecast.
Initial thoughts - optics wise - nice scope for the money. Very nice scope. Fit and finish is decent, but it sure ain't premium. We will see how the optics hold up under the stars.
Posted 23 October 2003 - 07:13 PM
Posted 23 October 2003 - 07:55 PM
I know several people on the forum are looking for a good second scope. Less false color than a TV-102? For less than $500? Amazing!
Posted 23 October 2003 - 08:23 PM
Posted 23 October 2003 - 08:40 PM
I typically test on a street sign down the road, a white picket fence, and a couple of other similar targets.
BUT - You are really are right tho - I do need to get it under the stars to really really tell how the lens looks. Even then, it's a lot more easy to pick out the violet than the green (at least for me) and I have no idea what the specs are on the lenses (IE where the correction is supposed to be best.)
IMO - There are a lot of things just as important or moreso than simple CA - again IMO, that's fairly overrated - probably because it's pretty obvious.
Would I still *rather* have a TV76 / TV85 / TMB80 / FS78? You betcha. No question. But then again, I'd love to have a a new travel trailer for the family too. It all depends on where you want to spend your money. Let's see what the answer to that one is later, eh?
Personally, I was *very* tempted by a used pronto for about the same amount of overall money (after you figure diagonal and accessories). It's smaller, comes with a great case (not to be underestimated in a travel scope) and is built like a tank. Plus as per the optics, yah, there's lots of color, but you can be reasonably assured that everything is pretty good.
Posted 23 October 2003 - 09:08 PM
Posted 24 October 2003 - 07:39 AM
Posted 24 October 2003 - 07:44 AM
Posted 25 October 2003 - 02:58 AM
Just came in from the cold. Viewed the ol' favorites m31 and m42 with the 80ED.
The contrast is realy nice. With light pollution, m31 showed variable density and an indistinct, but there, dust lane (more of a dust shadow). Both 110 and 32 visible.
M42 was detailed and had a faint green cast. splittings easy. m43 very faint with direct vision.
Aesthetically, really nice. Spent a couple hours looking at the two.
Posted 25 October 2003 - 07:19 PM
Posted 26 October 2003 - 08:00 AM
There is a fix for that, if it bothers you. Very very simple, and takes about 5-10 minutes.
Turn the scope over, and on the bottom of the focuser, you will see the tension adjustment knob. Remove it. Then unscrew the 4 screws holding this plate to the focuser assembly. This plate will then drop out. On the inside of the plate, there is a small mounting block with a piece of teflon attached. You can push this out by inserting something through the hole the tension adjustment knob was in. Now you have the bare plate with the mounting block holder on it. Look at the edges of the mounting block holder. I found that the bevel on my focuser rod/axel (where it gets larger) was rubbing against the metal here. Look for missing paint. You can take a dremel, small file or even a piece of sandpaper and bevel this edge out a bit so it mates with the rod/axel bevel better. It does not take much.
I have to go back and very lightly take a little more off the left side, but the squeak/scrape is almost completely gone, and I may not bother.
If you continue to have rasping / scraping / squeaking, I found I had another point of contact: the focuser rod was touching a piece of scrap / crud in the aluminum holes it projects out through. I wound up sanding this down a bit as well.
Thanks to Bill May who pointed this out to me in the Orion_ED yahoo group.
Posted 26 October 2003 - 03:45 PM
Posted 26 October 2003 - 05:59 PM
Posted 26 October 2003 - 07:24 PM
Posted 26 October 2003 - 09:06 PM
Posted 26 October 2003 - 09:10 PM
Posted 26 October 2003 - 10:57 PM
I haven't gotten around to turning the sighttube I made into a cheshire, but the accidental discovery that a flashlight shining down the tube made it possible to see the reflection of the provided peephole cap and center the opening in the ring on the primary. A friday startest looked good, but the optics dewed up before I could see much else.
My only concern is that the reflection of the secondary is slightly rotated from a strait front/back orientation. I know it's supposed to be off center, but is the rotation a problem?
Posted 26 October 2003 - 10:59 PM
Posted 26 October 2003 - 11:12 PM
Posted 27 October 2003 - 10:36 PM
Posted 27 October 2003 - 11:03 PM
Posted 28 October 2003 - 07:57 AM
Posted 28 October 2003 - 08:46 PM
Not to get off subject but I have a Bogen 3039 3 axis head on a 3058 tripod and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the the head. I would like to make an alt/az
setup for the tripod like yours. What's the scoop on the telepod and how does it attach to the tripod?
Posted 29 October 2003 - 12:26 AM
I have a Bogen 3039 3 axis head on a 3058 tripod and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the the head. Gary
Crank the center-column up, you will see three lock-screws underneath column flange. Back these out a few turns each with narrow flat-tip. Tighten head pan axis adjustment knob, then grasp and unscrew head from column to reveal 3/8-16 male attachment point.