First film AP in 10 Years
Posted 01 July 2009 - 08:08 PM
I lurk here quite a bit but don't often have much to post as I work mostly with another kind of camera which I won't mention here. But for general photography I actually still shoot film quite a bit, maybe more than ever before since learning to develop my own slides and negatives. It was only a matter of time before I would revisit film AP which I have not practiced since the late 90s.
At a recent trip to a dark site I brought along a roll of E200 and shot some simple, unguided wide fields. The camera is a Canon A2, and the lens a 35mm F1.2L working at F2. My exposures were around 5 minutes. I push-processed the slides 2 stops in a Jobo CPE2. To be honest, I did not expect much, but I was pleased with the results. I definitely hope I can get out to a dark site with a roll of film a little more often.
Thanks for looking.
35mm Milky Way
~5 min, unguided, E200
Canon 35mm F1.2L @ F/2
+2 push processed
See it larger HERE.
Posted 01 July 2009 - 08:32 PM
Thanks for posting.
Posted 01 July 2009 - 09:36 PM
Posted 01 July 2009 - 11:23 PM
Nice shot. There's a lot of detail in that photo for such a short exposure. Too bad about the planes nav lights. I hate when that happens. The next time your out there, perhaps you could pay off, in advance, the air traffic controllers to direct traffic away from your vicinity.
I wouldn't worry too much about your unmentionable camera. Though most of us die-hards feel that you'll have to pry our film cameras from our cold dead hands, we also realize that at some point each of us will have to make the switch.
How do you like that Jobo CPE2? I've been looking at those for a few years and with the price of film processing getting so high in these parts, I might finally bite the bullet. How long does it take to get the temperatures stabilized?
shark-bait, there is really no set in stone recommendation for pushing the processing of film. Generally speaking the more you push process the film the greater the grain will be. If you want shorter exposures and the amount of grain doesn't bother you you can push E200 to an EI of 800. If your imaging very faint fuzzies then you might also want to push it that far. I've been pushing it one to an EI of 320 to give me a in increase of speed and to minimize the amount of increase in grain. Pushing twice gives you an EI of 640 and 3x push will give you a 800 EI. It's a matter of personal choice. Perhaps someone here has negatives shot at each of these speeds and could show you how much the grain increases with each increase in speed.
Posted 02 July 2009 - 05:14 AM
The downside is that the cherry red nebulae of normally processed E200 turn pink and highlighted areas can get blown out. Contrast is very high at 2 stops. I've never tried 3 stops.
Posted 02 July 2009 - 06:48 AM
Fantastic photo M111. How do you attach your Canon to the LXD-75 mount? Nightfly had suggested that I give piggy backing a try but haven't found an adapter for that mount yet.
Sorry for the off-topic post. I just ordered an accessory bracket for my LXD-75 SN-6 yesterday from Raul at Desert Sky Astro Products that will let me mount my camera to the cradle. He may have to custom build it for the SN-10 like he did for mine, but visit his website and see the one for the SN-8 and if it will suit your purpose.
Posted 02 July 2009 - 08:15 AM
Posted 02 July 2009 - 08:28 AM
Thanks for the link for the accessory bracket. I like your blog too. I'm proud to say I'm your first follower.
Posted 02 July 2009 - 09:32 AM
How do you like that Jobo CPE2?
Hi Bob, a few years ago I was under the mistaken impression that color processing at home was too complicated to even consider. While the CPE2 is Jobo's bottom of the line unit I find it does a great job and is easy to use. I run mine next to the kitchen sink so I fill it with water close to my working temperature. The chemistry itself will reach temp in about 20 minutes.
Hi shark Bait, I have a few extra dovetails I got from ScopeStuff and I usually bolt the camera right to it. This time though I borrowed a long dove tail that has two ball heads mounted on each end. I was running a DSLR simultaneously.
How do you attach your Canon to the LXD-75 mount?
is it always recommended to push E200 2 stops?
My decision to push 2 stops was based on what I thought were short exposures. I wanted to make up a little gain. I was a bit afraid though that the grain might be a little much, especially with 35mm film, but was very surprised how smooth they came out. There is some grain but far less than I expected. E200 is a wonderful, versatile AP film.
You'll have about half a dozen guys here wanting you to process their E-6!
You mean there are a half-dozen people who actually shoot film AP???
Posted 02 July 2009 - 11:38 AM
Posted 02 July 2009 - 12:00 PM
The weather during my trip was terrible(as those of you in New England are all too familiar with) and I had planned on shooting some MF as well. I have an RZ67 with a 140/4.5 lens but the extra time required was not available. One thing on my shopping list is a Mamiya-Sekor 110/2.8 which is probably the most suitable AP lens available for that camera.
I've got another from this session that I'll post later, one that really made me appreciate the power of E200.
Posted 02 July 2009 - 12:04 PM
I'm with Nightfly on the film processing. If it's simple enough, and cost is reasonable to get the basic equipment - then I'm all for it. It removes the fear I have - and others about film lost in the mail - or in my case the photo store *BLEEP* it up with crud and tractor marks because they don't maintain the E6 machine.
When you have a number of frames with exposures in the 100 minute range - it soon becomes a different story. I would imaging that there is no real difference in processing E200 in 35 or 120 format other than the equipment side?
It might be worth starting a new thread on this subject, and let those that know discuss the subject. There are enough "listeners" to make it worth while. I would suspect we would save some money over developing at the lab costs - and that is a consideration. Having total control over the quality and end result - I like it. What say you Jim?
The other side is - everyone sends their film to you for processing? Lots to discuss if you are willing?
Posted 02 July 2009 - 12:34 PM
If someone would like to start a separate thread about home processing I would be happy to contribute what I can.
Posted 02 July 2009 - 10:19 PM
Posted 03 July 2009 - 06:56 AM
Sharpless 2-27 is very faint and seldom talked about. I have been photographing it for years with E200.
E200 is very very sensitive to Hydrogen Alpha. I know it does better than unmodded dslr's.
As for Super G 800, that was a good film at the time. The green cast had to be carefully controlled with exposure and light pollution. It was very sensitive and had good reciprocity. I got good shots of Comet Hale-Bopp with that film.
Again, so glad to see your posts. Wonderful work. Good luck with your MF. That I got to see!
Posted 03 July 2009 - 09:20 AM
Indeed, Sh2-27 is hiding in plain site. When I googled Sharpless 2-27 guess who's site came up first? I think you are the current world expert on this imaging this object.
Yes, the SuperG 800 was the top fast film of the time and most of my green shots were due to the operator erroneously operating under suburban LP. But I did manage some decent shots of HB with that film as well. I posted one in my first post to this group...
I'm in full agreement of the impact of film wide fields. They print really well too. Can't wait to do more.
Posted 03 July 2009 - 01:50 PM
Posted 03 July 2009 - 05:35 PM
I'm looking into finding a better holder for medium format as mine has snapped and been glued back together numerous times. Some day I may bite the bullet and get one of the holders from betterscanning.com.
Posted 05 July 2009 - 10:37 PM
Here's a shot of Sagittarius with my Pentax 67, 90 lens at f5.6. I could only go 68 minutes as the mount was all the way over and camera about to hit the tripod, so I had to cut it short. I was hoping for 90 minutes. Jim - Nightfly has pointed out the red - magenta - pointing to under exposure. Detail was coming - but so was the field rotation. Lots going wrong - and I'm learning - painfully. It was auto guided - thankfully. I had to cover the lens 3 times for airplanes - about 20 times for car lights - glare. Friday night and the boys were leaving town late.
I left the crud on the film intentionally to show you guys what my local lab does to my film. This is why I'm looking at developing my own. Every single frame from 6 rolls of film has something on it from them. Thankfully, I haven't produced anything worthwhile - yet.
Posted 05 July 2009 - 10:44 PM
Star trails on a tripod. Pentax 67 - 90 lens at 2.8 - 45 minutes E200. Can't believe how bright this lens got the trees. I mean it was so dark I could not see the gravel path at my feet without the red light on.
Posted 06 July 2009 - 09:26 AM
I haven't used Silverfast but you probably can apply some color correction to these when you scan, or afterward with a photo editor and restore them quite a bit.