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A Mystery Scope!

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#351 Datapanic

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 10:05 PM

That's all for tonite! Hopefully, my early training of taking apart those old A/C powered gear driven electric alarm clocks as well as old slot cars will come in hand when it comes time to get this working again!

#352 Datapanic

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 08:01 PM

Here's the finished motorized focuser pic. I posted it on CN 2.0, but it doesn't seem to be here. Still need to make a control box for it...

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#353 Dr. Woo

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Posted 29 March 2014 - 10:36 AM

The mount is almost done! New leveling bolts and knobs are being made by Bob Burns. I also picked up the rest of the lights and switches to finish up the electrical work today as well.

Wow just wow. That looks incredible. Amazing workmanship!

#354 Datapanic

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 09:33 PM

Where's the light switch!!!

#355 Datapanic

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 09:45 PM

When restoring a one-of-a-kind scope like this one, all it takes is one broken piece to cause a serious setback in bringing it back to life. In this case, it was the reinforcement ring for the secondary spider vane. As you recall, this piece cracked and broke in pieces. I commissioned Bob Burns, who also made a focus back to accept a 2" Crawmach focuser, to make a new ring.

The machining involved just to make this one ring was quite involved and I can't imagine how much work Maynard Clark went into making this telescope. It is a precision machine - so much so that Bob's meticulous work was what was needed to match Maynard Clark's. Everything about this scope is exact, and machinists think in the 1000's of an inch...

Here's a picture Bob took of the ring in its final stage of being drilled for the 1/4" holes for the secondary spider vane and the 6-32 threaded holes that mount the ring to the tube. The work was done on his 1951 Cincinnati #2 universal horizontal mill.

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#356 Datapanic

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 09:49 PM

Another view.

The material started off as a 10" or so piece of aluminum. Bob used the center material of the ring cutout as pie jaws for the lathe, and then as hold down clamps on the mill.

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#357 Datapanic

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 10:04 PM

It was a exciting day today to receive the finished product and here it is! The ring fits like a glove over the Parks fiberglass tube and all the holes line up perfectly. Although it has a very nice finish already, I'm going to polish it up a little bit later tonight.

You might notice that this ring is a little bit thicker than the original, by about an eighth of an inch. This was intentional to give the ring more strength and prevent it from breaking like the original did.

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#358 rcwolpert

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 10:10 PM

Wow...that's beautiful!

#359 Datapanic

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 10:18 PM

The tube was gently wet sanded with 1500 grit and then hand polished with rubbing compound and finished off with a premium car wax. The inside was painted with Krylon Ultra-Flat Black paint. The tube is very smooth to the touch. It does have some spider cracks that are barely visible, but it is a very old tube and that's what happens to them.

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#360 Datapanic

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 10:48 PM

After polishing the Spider Vane Reinforcement Ring, it is fitted on the tube and toothpicks are used to hold it in place. 6-32 V-head machine screws attach it to the tube from the inside. This way of doing it trues the roundness of the fiberglass tube (which all of them are a wee bit out of round) to the true roundness of the aluminum ring.

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#361 Datapanic

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 11:27 PM

Next, the spider is installed. One concern I had about this part was that the length of the vanes would be just right. The ends of the vanes have small brass blocks with the studs on the other side. They were meant to go flush up to the inside of the tube and then the jam nuts held them in place. Contrary to Cave and other scope manufactures' designs, there is no in/out adjustment to center the spider to the tube - with this design, it is centered if the vanes are all the same length and tightened up flush against the tube, which is also flush up against the reinforcement ring.

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#362 Datapanic

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 11:39 PM

Next, I installed the focuser base, I should have installed that before installing the Spider Vane, but it wasn't that hard to work around it and attach it with 6 machine screws. Show here is the 2" Celestron/Meade focus backplate that will accept those types of focusers.

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#363 Datapanic

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 12:13 AM

And finally, for the eyepiece end, the aluminum end ring is installed! Tomorrow - I'll install the secondary mirror and its holder, attach the inner rotating rings and then attach the OTA to the outer rotating rings and finally, attach the mirror end aluminum end ring which is also the mount for the mirror and cell. At that point, the OTA will be ready to attach to the mount and first light!

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#364 youngamateur42

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 12:21 AM

Dan this has been a wonderful thread, glad to see it all coming together now!

#365 John Higbee

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 05:24 AM

Great to see this all coming to completion, Dan...this has been a master class in telescope restoration!

Congratulations!

John

#366 photiost

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 05:46 AM

Great thread, what an amazing project !!

:bow:

#367 droid

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 06:49 AM

Dan; wow is all I can say....I forced myself to read every page, instead of jumping to the end, man oh man.....waiting for a final all up photo with anticipation.
Liked on you fb page

#368 Datapanic

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 12:58 PM

It's almost done! Last night, I finished up most of the OTA. Next up was to install the Rotating Ring system. The Inner Rotating Rings that mount to the tube were marked for which one was the upper and lower, but I hadn't marked where to align the rings around the tube. The 6 6-32 holes to secure the rings are not evenly spaced like everything else, so I had to test fit each position and hold it with toothpicks until the one position was found where everything lined up. It was a lengthy process!

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#369 Datapanic

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 01:04 PM

After both inner rings were installed, the teflon slide blocks and felt spacers were carefully laid in place with the tube standing vertical. The plan is to slide the outer rotating ring assembly down and into position and then tighten the adjusters to secure it to the OTA.

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#370 Bomber Bob

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 01:06 PM

Thanks for this thread, Dan! I've learned a lot following along in the process. Keyword: PATIENCE

Of special interest to me: Taking a production / commercial mount and improving it.

#371 Datapanic

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 01:11 PM

And presto! I had thoughts that this step would take all night as I try and side the outer ring assembly down and accidentally bump it causing the spacers and teflon blocks to fall off. I even considered using paper and tape to hold them in place. But, with my wife's help, we got it right the first time. While she held the outer ring assembly in place, I tightened the adjusters to secure it. Finally, I adjusted the tension and space between the outer and inner rings so that they were just right.

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#372 Datapanic

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 01:16 PM

Basically, we've been installing the OTA parts from one end to the other, and now we're all the way to the mirror end! So, the rear end ring goes on. Remember that this ring is also what connects the mirror and cell to the OTA.

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#373 Datapanic

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 01:32 PM

Thanks for this thread, Dan! I've learned a lot following along in the process. Keyword: PATIENCE

Of special interest to me: Taking a production / commercial mount and improving it.


Lot's of patience! It's hard to believe that it's been 4 1/2 years going.

The only commercial part of the scope is the Cave Legs and Pier Column - everything else, except for the Parks Tube and objective for the polar finder, Maynard Clark made himself.

The mirror box might have been commercially made too...

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  • 6653745-Mirror Box 2.JPG


#374 Datapanic

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 01:37 PM

The mirror is taken out of the box and mounted to the OTA.

I really like this design. It takes about a minute to remove or install the mirror and the box is mostly airtight to protect it while not in use.

I'm also thinking how easy it would be to design and make a 3-fan plate that goes behind the mirror if it needs it.

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#375 Datapanic

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 01:41 PM

Lot's of classic stuff here!

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