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8SE Imaging (again)

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#76 Arthur Dent

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Posted 14 March 2010 - 04:59 PM

Once again, my thanks Alex.

Pdf now safely saved on 3 PCs (just in case!!) Now all I need to do is to pluck up the courage to try this out (oh and install that Canon EOS software on my pc)!

You are truly a

Posted Image

Art

#77 tjay

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Posted 14 March 2010 - 07:22 PM

I have compiled my notes in a PDF: M42 with 8SE and DSLR. I hope it will be of use to someone.


Alex, this is definitely of use! Thanks for putting it together.

#78 Alex Post

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Posted 14 March 2010 - 07:41 PM

Now all I need to do is to pluck up the courage to try this out (oh and install that Canon EOS software on my pc)

Art, skip courage part :) You know how to do 95% of the stuff. In fact you do it every night with your scope. All you need is to install that one app and let computer snap a couple hundred pictures for you. I (and other people here and in DSLR part of forum) will help you process them in no time. What **** me off is my weather. If someone with 8SE had clear skies, that would be big help.

#79 tvader

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Posted 14 March 2010 - 08:02 PM

In the last 11 weeks I've had maybe 2-3 nights that were clear. all the rest were cloudy :(

#80 GizmoDave

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 08:17 AM

Excellent article Alex!
Thank you for sharing your technique and tools it will get used next time the scope and camera are out.

I hope you get some commission on the astro tools software as I know your article is selling a few copies.

#81 Arthur Dent

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 11:19 AM

...In fact you do it every night with your scope.

err...

...not quite. I haven't been out with my scope since September as our weather here in the UK has been CARP (anag).

Still, it seems to be getting a tad warmer and my aged bones don't like the cold all that much.

Just need those pesky clouds of Peter's to clear and I'll be set to give it a go.

Art

#82 Peter9

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 12:09 PM

[/quote]

Just need those pesky clouds of Peter's to clear and I'll be set to give it a go.

Art [/quote]

Behave yourself. :poke:

Peter.

#83 Alex Post

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 06:54 PM

I hope you get some commission on the astro tools software as I know your article is selling a few copies.

OK, if you know someone at Adobe or Noel is your neighbor, let them know :) In my opinion Photoshop is overpriced, but I am not in marketing. The only reason I got to use it was through an Academic version. It's much easier to upgrade than pay $600-1000 out of pocket in one go.

Noel's tools are great. Very reasonably priced and give joy to amateurs like me consistently.

#84 Chris Boar

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 09:14 PM

Checkout DSLR Remote on iPhone apps. A really cool app that's let's
you control your camera wirelessly via a laptop. Only $20 and it also
timed multiple exposures, and shows the camera's liveview on your iPhone. This is a great app especially for us Nikon users who don't get
free remote control sw.

Also if you are careful (buy from a powerseller) you can get cheap
legit copies of Photoshop. I got a legit copy of Cs2 for $280 and the seller helped transfer the Adobe licence to me. Also gives you a cheaper
upgrade route to CS4.

#85 Singularity

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Posted 15 March 2010 - 10:38 PM

Thanks a million for this topic.

I vote to sticky this thread too!!

#86 a_savvin

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 09:30 PM

Hi Alex,

I got my Celestron f/6.3 FLR. Do you know how is the best way to connect my Canon Rebel T1 to f/6.3. My connection looks not the same as yours that you show on photos. Do you have vignetting issues?
Is it normal? I am using connection - scope - >focal reducer -> visual back - >1.25 t-adapter->tring -> Canon


Thank you

#87 mclewis1

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 12:21 PM

Andrey,

You would be much better off using a T-Adapter link and a Canon T-ring behind your reducer. That would give you a nice solid connection with the required 105mm spacing for the reducer (the T Adapter is about 50mm and the front surface of the T-Ring to the sensor in your Canon is about 55mm). Using a T-Adapter will reduce the amount of vignetting you are seeing, but it won't totally eliminate it. Flats would then easily remove that last amount of vignetting.

Another option is to use a short SCT - male T thread adapter link and a stack of T thread spacers link. With this setup you could reduce the spacing a bit (down to about 85mm which would be a reduction of about .75x and not the original .63x) to improve the quality of the stellar images at the edge of the fov.

#88 a_savvin

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 02:16 PM

Hi Mark

thank you I think this is what I am looking for.

#89 a_savvin

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 09:37 AM

Hi Alex,

I downloaded trial version of CS4 and Liberator.

I trying to go through documentation you have created and I have a question on step

" Each color was stored SEPARATELY in a gray 16-bit monochrome file when the OK button was
pressed. The gray scale image was loaded as Unnamed file in the Photoshop’s main window. Then,
the time image was saved and closed. The name of the each gray file was chosen to indicate what
color was saved in that particular file. Plane 1 had _R, plane 2 had _G, and plane 3 had _B were
appended to the file name for future use."

When I click OK I just can see one gray window with my image. How I can save images under different layers n CS4

Thank you

#90 Alex Post

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 04:23 PM

You save each grey scale in a separate file. Once you have three files, execute automation script "Load Stack" It should be in the document.

#91 Paul D

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 04:59 PM

Just saw this thread... :shocked:
I guess all you need is time eh... And a bit of know how..

Well done!!!

#92 a_savvin

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 05:47 PM

Hi Alex,

Thank you. So, basically I would need to load original FITS file and process 3 time for each channel. And save file for each run in separate TIFF file.

#93 Alex Post

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 05:50 PM

You don't need all that much time either. Once you get Live View DSLR, and one of the adapters listed above, you can have very interesting images after one night. Just do not get discouraged when your images look like that. This is normal. That's what my images out of camera look like. Just a bit of processing is required.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 3689927-raw.jpg


#94 Alex Post

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 05:50 PM

Hi Alex,

Thank you. So, basically I would need to load original FITS file and process 3 time for each channel. And save file for each run in separate TIFF file.

You got it!

#95 a_savvin

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 09:10 PM

Thank you!

#96 GizmoDave

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 11:25 PM

Hi Alex,
Would the colour_composite.atn from the NASA/ESA site do the same as processing the fits 3X for the RGB layers?
If it is just automating the 3 layers for RGB is there any advantage to processing those steps manually?

#97 Alex Post

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 02:29 PM

Hi Alex,
Would the colour_composite.atn from the NASA/ESA site do the same as processing the fits 3X for the RGB layers?
If it is just automating the 3 layers for RGB is there any advantage to processing those steps manually?

I might have missed that script. There are no advantages of doing it manually. Thanks for pointing this out. I'll try that.

#98 tvader

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 09:02 AM

Alex - Just curious, What's your next target?
I'm looking forward to see what else you can do with the 8se!

#99 Alex Post

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 09:52 AM

Alex - Just curious, What's your next target?
I'm looking forward to see what else you can do with the 8se!

My next target is Horsehead, if weather allows before it gets too low in the evening. After that - I have not decided.

We had a couple of clear nights this week. Unfortunately transparency was in white category almost all time. One night it cleared to a shade of blue but I was incapacitated with a cold. I did try a sample in poor transparency. My 30 image sample produced no visible evidence of Horsehead.

#100 Alex Post

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 03:51 PM

On second thought, Beginner's imaging is requesting "Intermediate DSO"- NGC4565 for March submissions.

According to wiki NGC 4565 this object has apparent magnitude of 10.42. This is actually quite bright for 8SE. I can clearly see 14 and below magnitude in 10 second shots. This means I should be able to place it in the field of view rather comfortably in test shots. Attached is an example of a 10.7 star in the M42 image. It "should" work, but the time will tell.

The length of 15 arc minutes also matches quite well with my existing setup, which is set at around 60 arc minutes. Theoretically, it should occupy one quarter of the total picture length. It will also stay up all night so that I can go well past Horsehead's useful altitude.

I am looking at an opportunity on Sunday night according to the Clear Sky Chart. Anyone else wants to try it?

I found this image made with CPC925 with same FLR and camera CPC925 NGC 4565.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 3694087-magnitude_reference.jpg



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