Samsung SDC-435 = 8.5 seconds integration @ $153
Posted 09 April 2010 - 12:40 AM
That being said- two things come to mind:
1. Make sure the lens setting on the camera is set to manual
2. think about your focus- are you using a diagonal or an extension behind your focuser? If not one or the other you probably don't have enough back focus. If you are using the diagonal and it is still not working sometimes they don't have enough IN focus- this can be a bit tricky, finding the proper focus point.
Hang in there, you are so close
Posted 09 April 2010 - 12:54 AM
with your refractor, just trying to get to focus make sure:
Exposure> Shutter> Manual> 1/60
Gain low, brightness in the middle
SDR > ON > level 1
SSNR doesn't really matter at this point but go ahead and turn it on and put it in the middle
White balance doesn't matter at this point
Start with a bright target- with a new scope or camera I usually start with the street lights a mile or so away, or try the moon, or arcturus.
Focus slowly. Try different spacing with the diagonal or extension.
Focus slowly. Rinse lather repeat.
Posted 09 April 2010 - 03:17 AM
Hey thanks for the great show last night. It was fantastic to see this camera in action. I was really impressed.
Posted 09 April 2010 - 06:52 AM
Thanks To Scout72 for helping me learn the camera setting, and for posting the screen grabs of a few of the object I broadcasted.
If anyone would like to see the images from the SamSung SDC-435, they are posted in the images section. Meade 10 s/n at f/2,mfr3 and 10mm spacers, DVE in darken....
I think this will make a great entry level camera.
Posted 09 April 2010 - 09:33 AM
Posted 09 April 2010 - 09:46 AM
Very intriguing results for the price.
Posted 09 April 2010 - 10:17 AM
Greg did remove the IR cut filter on this camera but is not using a fan or any cooling, but where he was broadcasting from was pretty cold last night, in the low 40's I think.
The screen grabs are not as good as what we were seeing on screen, particularly in M51.
Anyway, some other folks have received this camera so maybe we will see some more broadcasts with this soon and I hope others will still keep working on trying different settings and function combinations. I hope to be broadcasting again soon too- I have been having a problem with my capture device- the only one I have that works with NSN, and I just haven't had time to go pick up a new one but hopefully by next week.
Posted 09 April 2010 - 11:18 AM
Posted 09 April 2010 - 12:53 PM
Very impressive photos for such an inexpensive camera!
Posted 09 April 2010 - 01:33 PM
To start with sorry to those that were waiting for me to broadcast, I got the camera at 5:00PM and removed the I/R Cut Filter First thing... and I found that I didn't have enough RCA cable to reach my computer so I was running around town at 8:00 pm trying to fine cables. Got up and broadcasting late around 10:00pm PST or so.
Right away I was having trouble getting the camera to do 8.5 seconds.... DO NOT PUT THE CAMERA IN SENSE UP MODE.....
It cost me a couple of hours...
Scout72 came on and help me with settings and right away we got the camera going at Full Gain and 8.5 seconds and M51 came alive... Nice clean detail in the spiral arms, color and clear bridge!!!!
Noise was not a problem at all with no fan. no cooling of any kind other than it was a cold night.
Scope was a Meade 10" F/4 S/N , MFR-3 With 10mm of Spacers putting me around F/2, DVE in Darken, and total cheap cable length 75 feet with no amplifier on the cable.
The camera did a Whole lot better than I thought it would....
I had a great time with it and will broadcast with it again for those that are interested in this camera...
It's no MallinCam, but I would buy it over a StellaCam II anyday... I hope its OK to say that... It's just MHO...
I think this camera is going to be a good camera for those who want to try Video Asrtonomy to see if they like it, and if so, to jump up to what I feel is the leading camera in the field of video Astro... The MallinCam !!!!
Obects viewed with great success where M51, M13 and a Small gallaxy next to M13, M104, M16, M57 and I just could make out the S Shaped galaxy near M57, M27... Everything showed nice color, what one would expect from a color video camera, except M104 but it doesn't show color anyway....
I think the Key to getting the most out of this camera is getting the focal reduction as low as you can... Like any camera it likes a Fast F/Ratio.... I was near F/2, if I had used the scope at F/4 native Focal Length I would not have had the same success.
I know people may not want to hear that, but if you are at F/5, trust me at only 8.5 seconds you NEED to be as fast as posiable.... Buy a focal reducer...
I have spent a lot of time building and buying scopes just for the MallinCam and always f/2 works best for me except on small bright objects.
Posted 09 April 2010 - 02:49 PM
Please recap the settings that were used.
Thanks - Jamie
Posted 10 April 2010 - 11:50 AM
There are a lot of settings and like all astro camera's you will have to adjust for your scope.
The main setting that got me going was to shut OFF the sense up because the sense up setting puts the camera in AUTO mode and the camera then auto adjusts the sense.... NOT GOOD.... cost me a couple of hours....
Lens = Manual
Exposure = Brightness at 50% , Shutter at X512, Gain at High
In Exposure there is a sub menu under shutter that allows you to adjust shutter to X512....
W/B = Manual I set red gain to 400 and I set blue gain to 500
SSDR = Off..... but this one needs to checked out... It adjusts for contrast between light and dark area's of an object....We may use this to bring out fine details in some objects???
Backlight/BLC = off
SSNR3 = ON To reduce back ground noise .... Worked GREAT on a cold night.... HOPE it works as good on a WARM night...
Day/Nightset = color
In Special I set monitor to LCD, and tried out the Digital ZOOM.
And that is where I stayed the rest of the night except on M13 where I went back into shutter speed and dropped it to x10.
There are a lot of settings that I need to look at....Like
adjusting brightness to find what works best
Red and Blue Gain needs to be played with.
The Zoom works great.
I think there is a Freeze setting???
Hope this helps you get going.
Posted 11 April 2010 - 06:41 AM
Posted 11 April 2010 - 10:58 PM
I live right in the middle of a city of 70,000
20 miles north of me is a city of 322,000
20 miles south of me is a city of 220,000
15 miles west of me a city of 85,000
I was set up in my back yard with a street light in front of my house about 100 feet away from my scope and one behind my house also about 100 feet from my house. I have two neighbors that leave small porch lights on in they're back yards which face my back yard.
I use a dew shield to block stray light, and the object where high when the images were captured.... because of my light pollution I try to pick objects above 45*-50*
I'm not sure what mag. my skies are, but there is no way I can see the Milky Way.
The only time I use an eyepiece at home anymore is to view Saturn, Jupiter, and the Moon.... and I don't even do that very often.....
Posted 12 April 2010 - 09:20 AM
Posted 12 April 2010 - 12:05 PM
The scope was a Meade 10" F/4 S/N OTA on a Celestron CGE mount.
I don't use a lens that screws onto the camera, just a thread on focal reducer then use the camera in the telescope. The focal reducer and spacer makes my 10" f/4 into a 10" F/2.
A focal reducer will change your scopes from F/5 to something like F/3 or so, depending on the reducer and the amount of spacers between the camera and the reducer.
At F/3 you will have a larger FOV and the scope will gather light much quicker so that the camera will produce brighter Images.
I used a Dazzle video to digital converter to get the anilog signal from the camera to my computer.
Posted 12 April 2010 - 01:06 PM
Posted 14 April 2010 - 01:06 PM
Posted 14 April 2010 - 01:35 PM
Posted 14 April 2010 - 05:57 PM
Do you see much differance in video quality between the EasyCap and the Dazzle?
Which one did you use to capture the images from my broadcast the other night?
Posted 14 April 2010 - 09:41 PM
No, I really didn't see much difference in the video quality, the difference is in the build quality. The metal USB casing on the Easycap came loose after two weeks and I had to glue it back on, and it just feels pretty flimsy. Also note the operating system limitations.
I didn't use any device to do screen grabs from your session on NSN the other night- I just hit "Control>Print Screen" on my computer and that grabs a picture of what's on the screen which I then paste into the Paint application and then crop and save and maybe resize if they are too big still- that's it.
Posted 17 April 2010 - 04:26 AM
Thanks Scout72 - I've the option of dual voltage 12VDC/24VAC or 230VAC [European mains] at the same price. Have you any comments?
I use mine with my laptop primarily- but depends on your operating system- for XP 32 bit- I used the cheapo "EasyCap USB" device that costs around $10-15, it is not the best made product, but treat it gently and it works well. I upgraded to Wun7 64 bit on my laptop and upgraded to a Dazzle device at $50- better made but also bulkier.
It's unlikely that I'd use the SDC-435 remote from mains and thought the mains unit [presumably within the cam casing] would minimise addition cables to trip over in the dark but just thought - is the mains unit another source of heat into the cam housing
Posted 19 April 2010 - 09:15 PM