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Samsung SDC-435 IR Filter removal - six easy steps

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#1 scout72

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:02 AM

So, I went back and looked at my ruined SDC-425, and I realized that I was a complete idiot in my attempt at IR filter removal, I overlooked a simple step, and once I ruined it I just didn't look at it further, but, going back with a clear head I saw how simple it should have been and I finished the process and actually found where my short was that I thought was unrepairable, so good times all around. After I buttoned it back up I took the SDC-435 apart to see if it was the same IR filter attachment and it was- so I removed filter from the 435 as well, no problems- fired up camera and all is well. I will document the process over a few posts below:

Step 1,

Make sure you have some good jewelers screwdrivers! Then, remove the top two screws - screwdriver is pointing at the front one, also remove the front screw in the same position on the bottom of the camera (3 screws total removed)

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#2 scout72

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:04 AM



Step 2: pull off the top plate off the camera and disconnect the small cable connecting the Iris outlet- it is a push on connector, no latch- you just have to wiggle it back and forth a little:

(just a reminder- this is the only cable you are going to disconnect0



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#3 scout72

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:07 AM



Step 3- remove the two larger screws holding the front of the camera to the body(remember that this is where the larger screws go when you are putting it back together, all the other screws are the same size)




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#4 scout72

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:09 AM



Step 4: Remove the 4 screws in the corners holding the pc-board to the front of the camera- be careful with the cable and this is where you don't want to slip with your screwdriver and scrape across the board :-)

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#5 scout72

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:11 AM



Step 5:

Move the pc-board off the frame with the cable attached and then unscrew the two black screws in the center of the board- they are screwed into plastic and take some effort to unscrew. Be careful because the housing and filter are popping off the front when you unscrew these.

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#6 scout72

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:12 AM



Step 6: Put it back together minus the housing and filter!

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#7 Sky Captain

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:33 AM

Nice job Brian.

Looks like there's room for a cooling fan upgrade too... :whistle:

Wish mine was that easy, it's the glued on type that was featured earlier.

#8 ngchunter

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 09:29 AM

Wow, thanks for the tips! I'll have to give this a shot. How bad would it be to leave it completely sans IR filter of any sort? Am I just going to get a brighter but noisier image since the camera isn't cooled (yet)?

#9 scout72

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 03:25 PM

depends on what scope you will be using- no IR filter causes halos in achromatic refractive systems- so if you are using a fast refractor you will want an uv-ir filter in the way, this is still better than the stock IR filter because the specialized astro ones block IR but allow HA.

the scope will be more sensitive to light pollution too, but this isn't the kind of noise that cooling reduces.

#10 ngchunter

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Posted 30 March 2010 - 03:44 PM

I see, thanks for the clarification. I'm using a schmidt-cassegrain, so achromatic issues aren't much of a concern, but light pollution is a huge concern for me. I generally try to use a broadband nebula filter whenever it's appropriate. I suppose I'll have to shell out for an astro-specialized IR filter at some point. I'll also have to see if it's possible to scavange the IR filter off my dead DSI and fit it in the SDC case. I doubt it'll fit, but it's worth a shot.

#11 nytecam

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Posted 31 March 2010 - 01:06 PM

Excellent and detailed mod :bow: The removed IR block filter looked quite thick - will this alter infinity focus for a 'C' type lens on the cam :question: We await some astro-pics via the filterless cam which hopefully goes deeper ;)
ps: anyway, whilst the box is open, of tinkering with the circuitry to extend the sens-up for longer effective exposures :question:

#12 scout72

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Posted 31 March 2010 - 04:33 PM

The filter is about 3mm thick- so yes, fairly thick, and will affect infinity focus on CS lenses on the CS mount- I plan on using C-mount lens with a 7nm IR pass filter for wide field HA testing (I have a c-mount specific filter that goes between the lens and the camera body) it is not 3mm thick, but I hope that with various c mount spacers I have I can get it to focus at infinity.

It will have the same problem as any CCD imager with the IR cut filter removed and no other filter or clear glass put in the path, but I plan on mainly using this with my c11, so not really an issue, and I also have astro uv/ir to use if I do use my refractors.

To answer your question about tinkering to achieve even greater integration time- I thought about it and got as far as finding the clock driver chip schematic, realized I need an electrical engineering degree to even contemplate going further- I will leave it to others for that mod!

#13 ccs_hello

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Posted 31 March 2010 - 09:31 PM

RE: Long exposure mod
since it's a video camera (i.e., continuous video stream output), you need
- same method supressing X_sub signal, see 1004X-JG mod
- synchronize this camera's frame buffer capture timing to the video frame readout time. If not doing so, e.g., extending from 2 second L.E. to 16 second L.E. will end up with 2 second frozen video frame (with actual image) followed by a 14 second black frame.

Clear Skies!

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#14 scout72

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Posted 01 April 2010 - 12:00 PM

Thanks- VERY MUCH for your reply, I did some searching and a lot of reading last night, and I still have a long way to go :-) Still not sure I am going to be the one to fire up the soldering iron for a SamCam mod, but then again , I DO have that SDC-425 that I thought was ruined...

I would recommend anyone interested in the "how" of CCD imaging ,including CCTV, take a little time and read through CCS_Hello's posts on introduction to CCD:

http://www.cloudynig...28/Main/1393856

On another note, it is also pretty cool to read back through the posts of folks working on the 1004x mod for webcams when they first became popular. just google "1004x-jg mod" like I did.

Here was one interesting post from another source that I found pretty informative:

http://www.nitehawk....ron_notes1.html

which also hits on a good point, I think anything over 8 seconds is going to require TEC cooling as well, so, not that it adds a ton of complexity to the project, but I haven't even really gotten into testing the stock camera yet, and quite honestly I was very VERY impressed at the noise level uncooled at 8 seconds, albeit on a 64 degree night and only set up for an hour.

Well, here is a funny bit of trivia that dates myself- the last time I did use a soldering iron on a modding project was back in 1998 on a Sony ps-1 to do the mod on the board to allow you to play copied game discs. Ah the good ole days.

For this evening, here in the SF Bay Area the forecast is:

Mostly clear. Lows in the upper 30s to mid 40s. Northwest winds 10 to 20 mph.

So hopefully will be able to do some extended testing of the SDC-435 sans IR Cut filter.

Cheers

BC





:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

#15 ngchunter

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Posted 03 April 2010 - 04:17 PM

Just wanted to thank you scout for your excellent and detailed tutorial. I was able to safely remove my IR filter today and hope to do some testing next week with my filterless and modestly-cooled camera later next week.

#16 scout72

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 11:40 AM

Just a quick update with first impressions on filterless camera:

I forgot that I had lent out my c-mount filter, so no HA or widefield stuff yet. I did try a c-mount lens just for kicks and focus issues and halos there as expected, didn't mess with the spacers yet.

I tried to replicate the targets from my first test with this camera using the same settings. With the c-11 and no filters I was able to achieve pinpoint stars. Since the focus point is moved it changed the spacing with my meade x.33 focal reducer resulting in slightly more reduction.

I have not downloaded screen shots yet but I will this week, but for example, on m42, the image was much brighter and much pinker- and it as an overall brighter image, and not pleasing to look at until I did a manual white balance to take out most of the red. The image was still too bright overall, but moving back to 4 seconds integration and turning off dynamic range game me a similar yet overall better image than at 8 seconds with the filter on.

I think that the overall brightness is being caused by light pollution and I want to do further tests to see if I can up the contrast and keep more of a dark background with the use of LPR filter. I just didn't have time the other night and not too many clear nights here in NorCal recently!

I am thinking about putting in a clear glass filter in place of the IR cut filter, because I do want to be able to use this with some CS mount lenses I have and i think that is the only way that it will work- anyone know of a source for small optical glass windows for this purpose?

Thanks

BC

#17 ccs_hello

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 08:33 PM

BC,

Does the camera have the adjustment screw to move the image plane back-n-forth? That will allow no filter glass arrangement. In your environment, getting a LPR filter makes sense.

Clear Skies!

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#18 scout72

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Posted 06 April 2010 - 10:46 AM

The SDC-435 does have two screws on the cs mount housing that allow a few MM of adjustment on the focal plane but I have not found the perfect spacing yet- I think I need either a really thin spacer (which i don't have) with this all the way out, or a 4mm spacer (which I don't have) with it adjusted all the way in - but I have only played around with one lens so far, so I will try another lens and some more spacings before I give up.

#19 Lubidius

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 02:34 PM

Awesome tute scout. I don't know how I completely missed you posting this!! Great information.

#20 will w

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 09:18 PM

hi scout72, see ya moved the thread up a few pages. thats great!! there is lots of info in the video fourm. all you gota do is read and ask questions to. my SDC-435 should be here next week. i hope!! i might do IR mod on it. lubidius did you get your video cam yet?? i sent you a P M a while back. my computer has ben GOOFIE lately. think i got it fixed. clr skys will w

#21 Chris Schroeder

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 07:02 AM

I added this thread to the best of Q&A

#22 skyjim

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 03:15 PM

Hi scout, last year I bought one of the 425's but never had the time to hook it up, just got my ole laptop fixed and picked up the dazzle divice for VC so I'll be ready to go. Do you think I should remove the filter on it cause it looks easy enough, will it help???
thanks
jim

#23 scout72

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 05:32 PM

Removing the filter definitely helps- but just remember that you will have to work out a custom white balance if you are not going to use any filter, which is easy enough. Also best to use with your c9.25 instead of the refractors and also remember to get the focal ratio down as far as possible- I use a Meade f3.3 reducer with my c8 and c11 and I had to work on the spacing from reducer to sensor a bit but I am happy with this setup.

#24 will w

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 07:01 PM

hi,where would you put the vent holes in the camers and where would you be able to mount a very small fan for cooling?? has anyone done this with any of these cameras?? does anyone have any pictures this being done?? i would like to cool my camera when i start using it. thanks, clr skys will w

#25 Mittag56

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 11:27 AM

for a spacer , have you thought of using the optical glass from an old flatt bed scanner...it cuts fairly good with regular glass tools and is quite thin...i have used it in the past to change glass lens's on instruments so that a high speed cam on a production line could see with no distortion..just a thought


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