Samsung SDC-435 IR Filter removal - six easy steps
Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:02 AM
Make sure you have some good jewelers screwdrivers! Then, remove the top two screws - screwdriver is pointing at the front one, also remove the front screw in the same position on the bottom of the camera (3 screws total removed)
Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:04 AM
Step 2: pull off the top plate off the camera and disconnect the small cable connecting the Iris outlet- it is a push on connector, no latch- you just have to wiggle it back and forth a little:
(just a reminder- this is the only cable you are going to disconnect0
Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:07 AM
Step 3- remove the two larger screws holding the front of the camera to the body(remember that this is where the larger screws go when you are putting it back together, all the other screws are the same size)
Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:09 AM
Step 4: Remove the 4 screws in the corners holding the pc-board to the front of the camera- be careful with the cable and this is where you don't want to slip with your screwdriver and scrape across the board :-)
Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:11 AM
Move the pc-board off the frame with the cable attached and then unscrew the two black screws in the center of the board- they are screwed into plastic and take some effort to unscrew. Be careful because the housing and filter are popping off the front when you unscrew these.
Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:12 AM
Posted 30 March 2010 - 01:33 AM
Looks like there's room for a cooling fan upgrade too...
Wish mine was that easy, it's the glued on type that was featured earlier.
Posted 30 March 2010 - 09:29 AM
Posted 30 March 2010 - 03:25 PM
the scope will be more sensitive to light pollution too, but this isn't the kind of noise that cooling reduces.
Posted 30 March 2010 - 03:44 PM
Posted 31 March 2010 - 01:06 PM
ps: anyway, whilst the box is open, of tinkering with the circuitry to extend the sens-up for longer effective exposures
Posted 31 March 2010 - 04:33 PM
It will have the same problem as any CCD imager with the IR cut filter removed and no other filter or clear glass put in the path, but I plan on mainly using this with my c11, so not really an issue, and I also have astro uv/ir to use if I do use my refractors.
To answer your question about tinkering to achieve even greater integration time- I thought about it and got as far as finding the clock driver chip schematic, realized I need an electrical engineering degree to even contemplate going further- I will leave it to others for that mod!
Posted 31 March 2010 - 09:31 PM
since it's a video camera (i.e., continuous video stream output), you need
- same method supressing X_sub signal, see 1004X-JG mod
- synchronize this camera's frame buffer capture timing to the video frame readout time. If not doing so, e.g., extending from 2 second L.E. to 16 second L.E. will end up with 2 second frozen video frame (with actual image) followed by a 14 second black frame.
Posted 01 April 2010 - 12:00 PM
I would recommend anyone interested in the "how" of CCD imaging ,including CCTV, take a little time and read through CCS_Hello's posts on introduction to CCD:
On another note, it is also pretty cool to read back through the posts of folks working on the 1004x mod for webcams when they first became popular. just google "1004x-jg mod" like I did.
Here was one interesting post from another source that I found pretty informative:
which also hits on a good point, I think anything over 8 seconds is going to require TEC cooling as well, so, not that it adds a ton of complexity to the project, but I haven't even really gotten into testing the stock camera yet, and quite honestly I was very VERY impressed at the noise level uncooled at 8 seconds, albeit on a 64 degree night and only set up for an hour.
Well, here is a funny bit of trivia that dates myself- the last time I did use a soldering iron on a modding project was back in 1998 on a Sony ps-1 to do the mod on the board to allow you to play copied game discs. Ah the good ole days.
For this evening, here in the SF Bay Area the forecast is:
Mostly clear. Lows in the upper 30s to mid 40s. Northwest winds 10 to 20 mph.
So hopefully will be able to do some extended testing of the SDC-435 sans IR Cut filter.
Posted 03 April 2010 - 04:17 PM
Posted 05 April 2010 - 11:40 AM
I forgot that I had lent out my c-mount filter, so no HA or widefield stuff yet. I did try a c-mount lens just for kicks and focus issues and halos there as expected, didn't mess with the spacers yet.
I tried to replicate the targets from my first test with this camera using the same settings. With the c-11 and no filters I was able to achieve pinpoint stars. Since the focus point is moved it changed the spacing with my meade x.33 focal reducer resulting in slightly more reduction.
I have not downloaded screen shots yet but I will this week, but for example, on m42, the image was much brighter and much pinker- and it as an overall brighter image, and not pleasing to look at until I did a manual white balance to take out most of the red. The image was still too bright overall, but moving back to 4 seconds integration and turning off dynamic range game me a similar yet overall better image than at 8 seconds with the filter on.
I think that the overall brightness is being caused by light pollution and I want to do further tests to see if I can up the contrast and keep more of a dark background with the use of LPR filter. I just didn't have time the other night and not too many clear nights here in NorCal recently!
I am thinking about putting in a clear glass filter in place of the IR cut filter, because I do want to be able to use this with some CS mount lenses I have and i think that is the only way that it will work- anyone know of a source for small optical glass windows for this purpose?
Posted 05 April 2010 - 08:33 PM
Does the camera have the adjustment screw to move the image plane back-n-forth? That will allow no filter glass arrangement. In your environment, getting a LPR filter makes sense.
Posted 06 April 2010 - 10:46 AM
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Posted 04 July 2010 - 11:27 AM