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My brand new 8x42 Orion Ultraviews

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#26 brocknroller


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Posted 05 January 2004 - 11:18 PM


Let me know if Betelgeuse goes supernova so I can build a shelter before the shock wave hits. :tonofbricks:


#27 edcannon


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Posted 06 January 2004 - 02:11 AM

Thanks to Tom, here are four more to add to the list of 8x, porro, FOV>6.5, long eye relief, under $200 (except one with very large FOV):

Bushnell H2O 8x42, FOV=8.2, ER=17, fc?, BK-7?, 27oz, $80
Bushnell Legend (porro) 8x42, FOV=8.2, ER=19, fmc?, BaK-4?, 24oz, $120
Eagle Optics Triumph 8x42, FOV=8.2, ER=19, fmc, ?, 23oz, $90
Eagle Optics Raptor 8x42, FOV=8.8, ER=17, fmc, BaK-4, 27oz, $260

Don't know which prism glass is in Eagle Optics Triumph. It seems like Bushnell's are the most difficult to get complete information. On a number of sites the Bushnell Legend *porros* are said to have phase coating, which can't be correct.

If you're willing to do roof prisms, the number of choices expands, and of course it grows even larger if you let the price go up to $300, or $500 ... or $1500.

Brock, there's also Eta Carinae to worry about! Mira?

Ed Cannon - ecannon@mail.utexas.edu - Austin, Texas, USA

#28 Guest_**DONOTDELETE**_*

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Posted 06 January 2004 - 02:48 AM

The list just gets bigger and bigger... So many choices :shrug:

:question: Given that all the 8x40ish binos have similar specs, etc and are all under or around the $200 mark, if I gave you all $200 to buy just one pair from the list, what would it be?

#29 KennyJ


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Posted 06 January 2004 - 07:03 PM

Frilby ,

Perhaps one of the reasons few people are likely to provide a direct answer to your latest question is tied in with the best advice of all -- and the one which regarding your situation especially , I REALLY empathise with , which is:


It would indeed be futile ,for example ,for ANYONE to buy a binocular with fluorite lenses, multi -layered Leica or Zeiss quality coatings ,Zeiss Classic -like TFOV, Fujinon quality baffling and sharpness , Nikon Superior E brightness ,Swarovski quality contrast and ergonomics,Canon or Pentax field flatness with Image Stabilisation ,nitrogen purging and waterproofing down to 120,000 leagues under the sea , with lifetime guarantee -- all for $100 Australian dollars --- if eye -relief was 4mm , the purchaser could not see without glasses ,and it remained foggy every day and night for evermore.

Extreme hypothetics yes -- but at the end of the day -- if you REALLY want a REALLY good pair of binoculars then my advice is to scrimp , save , beg or borrow and pick ANY from the list I provided in one of my other messages tonight.

And add to that list the Fujinon 7 x 50 FMT SX.

Midnight Regards -- Kenny

#30 edcannon


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Posted 11 January 2004 - 05:49 PM

Finally last night got a pretty good chance to try out the new
8x42 Ultraviews on the stars. (BTW, I always observe with
eyeglasses on.) I could fit Betelgeuse and Bellatrix together
at opposite edges of the same FOV. In spite of there being
some scattered cirrus, I could see M42 nebulosity. There's no
problem with focusing stars and planets. This afternoon I
tried again to check on the merging of the left and right
circles. (EdZ wrote very helpfully about this in message
#36308.) By my apartment is a bridge over a creek. The
bridge has vertical railings spaced about every 8 inches
(200mm). As best I can tell using those railings (at a
distance of maybe 10 yards/meters), it looks like what I see
in the left circle is a field slightly to the left of what I
see in the right circle (or vice versa). I have no problem
focusing on anything; it's just that the two circles seem
not to overlap 100%, as best I can tell so far. I tried to
figure out a way to test that on the stars last night but
wasn't able to figure out how to do it. So I need to go
somewhere that will allow a very distant terrestrial view.

Two other things -- First, now I know what is meant about
"edge performance". On the stars, I could see how as I looked
towards the edge, the stars would begin to blur. It seemed to
begin maybe about 60% out from the center towards the edge. I
had never noticed that with my 10x50s, so I'll be checking
that out on them also.

The second other thing is blackout. It seems that it's easier
to get blackout in the daytime. Of course my pupils are less
dilated. Maybe the best time to adjust interpupillary distance
is in the daytime?

So, so far I'm pretty happy with these binoculars, although I'm
a little in doubt as to the left-right merging issue. I like
the wide field of view.

Ed Cannon - ecannon@mail.utexas.edu - Austin, Texas, USA

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