Overhaulin' my CPC-1100
Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:22 AM
1) Re-Grease all OTA components. The stock grease continues to ooze from various parts of the scope. (Annoying)
2) Clean Corrector Plate
3) Install 2 variable speed 40mm DC Fans to help ventilate OTA.
4) Install custom mirror locking assembly.
5) Replace Aluminum OTA Tube with a Carbon Fiber one.
My main goal is to get a little bit more out of this C11 in terms of visual and photographic capability by eliminating some of the typical flaws with these Celestron scopes.
Images so far:
Posted 29 November 2011 - 09:51 AM
Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:38 PM
Posted 29 November 2011 - 12:47 PM
Posted 29 November 2011 - 01:37 PM
Excerpt from their website:
Ultra Flat Black Tube Interior
We spent a lot of time researching an ultra-flat black paint for our carbon tubes. We have formulated a superb combination of black primer and flat black topcoat that has excellent bonding to carbon and lower reflectivity than any paint we've ever tested. In testing, we've submerged the tubes in water of various temperature for 2 weeks at a time to make sure it holds up. It does! Our special paint treatment is standard on our Celestron replacement tubes and optional on all custom tubes.
Posted 09 December 2011 - 11:09 AM
Posted 10 December 2011 - 11:18 AM
Posted 16 December 2011 - 10:31 PM
(CF Dew Shield, Mirror Lock Assmebly, 40mm Silent Fans, Fan Speed Control)
Progress so far:
(Some holes drilled)
PS. I'll explain a lot more about the mirror locking components once I get to that stage of installation.
Posted 22 December 2011 - 02:05 AM
Posted 12 February 2012 - 12:31 PM
Would it be possible to install an internal-ish dew heating system for the corrector plate?
I'm sure it's possible, but I've tackled enough for this project. lol
Posted 12 February 2012 - 12:39 PM
The fans are installed with a variable speed rheostat & 12v RCA jack for power. (from the dew buster) I've tested everything and it works great. These fans do not move a pile of air though which I suspected and am fine with. I'd sooner move a small volume of air continuosly than none at all.
Cooling fans and mirror lock bulkheads installed:
Posted 14 February 2012 - 04:16 PM
Posted 14 February 2012 - 06:44 PM
Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:22 PM
Posted 18 March 2012 - 01:46 PM
I've got the mirror locks installed and the carbon tube installed. Just have to clean the corrector plate and re-install it.
Details and pictures of the mirror locks:
After brain storming with a few co-workers on how to lock the mirror on my C11, we came up with the following.. Basically the plan was to JB-Weld some 3/8" Stainless tubing to the back flange on the mirror assembly, then run the rod through bulkheads installed on the rear lens cell of the C11. While focusing (moving the mirror) the rods move back and forth through the bulkhead. Once you've achieved focus you tighten the outside nut on bulkhead and the internal nylon ferrule squeezes against the rod and holds it in place. (and obviously the mirror) The nice part about this is that it's a friction fit against the rod and it places absolutely no tension or strain on the mirror itself. Of course I haven't been able to test how well it works yet.. hopefully soon.
The following images show the rods close to fully extended. (Mirror retracted)
Shot with new carbon fiber tube:
Posted 01 April 2012 - 01:40 AM
I had a patch of clear sky tonight so I setup and attempted to verify a few things but I didn't make it far. Seeing was bad enough that fine collimation was out of the question and thin high cloud combined with the moon made everything pretty much pointless. I was able to look at some craters though so I'm pleased at the fact my scope still appears to work. lol
Posted 15 June 2012 - 07:44 AM
Posted 21 June 2012 - 05:11 PM
Posted 24 June 2012 - 09:56 PM
Awesome modification, I'd like to get a better idea of the breakdown and use of the locks. Any chance you could elaborate?
Thanks! The locking system is fairly simple yet might be hard to visualize. Basically there are 3 tabs on the back of the mirror mount assembly as seen here:
On one tab the focuser is mounted via. the threaded rod so you have the 2 other tabs in which to use to stabilize the mirror. I JB Welded the stainless steel rods to the back of the other two tabs and ran them out the rear cell of the telescope. They pass through 2 bulkhead fittings that were installed on the rear cell, these keep the rods moving straight and offer some support. When you tighten the nuts on the outside of the telescope that are threaded onto the bulkheads, they squeeze an internal plastic ferrel which 'grabs and holds' the stainless steel rod. Finger tight is all that is needed to hold the rods quite well. The theory is that with the rods tight and attached to the mirror it cannot move which will eliminate the mirror shift over long exposure photography. I still haven't tested it because where I'm at it dosen't get dark enough in May/June/July to bother with Astrophotography. Once I have some picture evidence of them working, I'll definately post it. Feel free to ask any other questions, or if any point requires further clarifying.
In the picture below it's easy to see the lower nut which is tightened and loosened for the mirror locking. The upper nut and plug are just there to give the rods a 'finished look' and offer no mechanical use.
Posted 24 June 2012 - 09:57 PM
This has been very interesting....many thanks for sharing...
Thanks, it's been my pleasure.
Posted 25 June 2012 - 05:09 AM
Posted 26 June 2012 - 12:46 PM
Posted 26 June 2012 - 07:08 PM
With those fan on the back aren't you concerned they will pull in dust? Because I imagine you need one of those fans as an intake and the other exhaust, yes?
Not really.. they might pull in a bit of dust but they have filters on them that are easily removed and cleaned. Many telescope designs have the mirror totally open to the elements so not too concerned. It's pretty easy to remove the corrector and blow out the dust if necessary anyway..