14 replies to this topic

[jim4nd]

With ISON in the area starting this fall, I would like to get outfitted for good viewing. I recall reading about some 11x80 comet killers. But that just might be marketing hype. So, what should I be looking for in a pair of binoculars to view comets?

[GlennLeDrew]

The great majority of comets are on the small size, of order the larger/largest deep-sky objects. For these, about the largest bino you can afford serves best. For the much less common 'biggies', which might have tails tens of degrees long, a very small bino is useful; even the unaided eye.

In general, a bino for comet observation might best have an exit pupil of 4-5mm. A big 7mm exit pupil is useful only if you have quite dark skies, and if your own pupils don't open this large, you're really lugging extra bulk which is doing no work. A 3mm exit pupil is considered a bit on the small side by some, as the view is noticeably darkened.

Just as for deep-sky observing, a good, all round bino might be a 10X50. It offers a good balance of hand holdability, decent penetration and detail, wide field (I recommend the wide field types having a 6.5 degree field--or larger) and cost.

[Maverick199]

I have the Nikon 10 x 50 CF which is great for viewing clusters and other brighter galaxies. I can easily see M 31 and a few clusters from my light polluted zone.

[kenrenard]

Just as for deep-sky observing, a good, all round bino might be a 10X50. It offers a good balance of hand holdability, decent penetration and detail, wide field (I recommend the wide field types having a 6.5 degree field--or larger) and cost.

Glenn,
I have a set of Nikon Action 10 X 50 which are 6.5 degree field. I do find them to work very well for day and night use. They were not very expensive under $100.00. Is 6.5 degree about the max field of view for 10 X 50's for mass produced binoculars?

I did some not see anything doing some quick searching much wider without dropping to 7 X 35 which seem to only get to 7-8 degrees.

Ken

[Jon Isaacs]

Glenn,
I have a set of Nikon Action 10 X 50 which are 6.5 degree field. I do find them to work very well for day and night use. They were not very expensive under $100.00. Is 6.5 degree about the max field of view for 10 X 50's for mass produced binoculars?

I did some not see anything doing some quick searching much wider without dropping to 7 X 35 which seem to only get to 7-8 degrees.

Ken

Ken:

In general, 6.5 degrees is about as wide as 10x gets, that's 65 degree AFoV eyepiece. Binoculars with such wide AFoVs are generally not very sharp near the edges so going wider is not much help.

Of course you can always build your own like Glenn does, his right angle 11x50s have a 8.1 degree TRoV and use a pair of Ethos's for eyepieces...

I have a pair of 10x50 Nikon Actions, I like em but they do tend to fog on me. I am more of a mono-vision guy, I have an 80mm F/5 achromat with a 2 inch focuser that provides a 6 degree TFoV.

Jon

[kenrenard]

Thanks Jon,
I have the Nikons and a pair of Celestron 15 X 70 which are just too heavy to hold steady. The Nikon's work pretty well for me they do fog from time to time but I was able to find M33 with them a few weeks ago so they are helpful for looking at things I'm not sure of. Good to know wider would just mean blurry edges which I don't want. I was thinking mainly for birds going wider. I still would like to save up and someday get the Canon 10 X 30 IS.

I doubt I could build my own binoculars. Maybe someday! just fixing a drawer yesterday my 2 year old walked off with several tools in a matter of seconds!

I have an AT72 which I think I can get close to 6 degrees. It has the 2 inch focuser and I do enjoy using that scope quite a bit. I have a dwarf star mount on a camera tripod and its light as a feather.

Thanks again for the usual good advice. Still waiting for a clear night in PA its been cloudy for weeks!


Ken

[jgraham]

If you want to go big with binnoculars you might consider a pair of binoviewers. As long as you have a sturdy focuser and enough back-focus they make a nice option.

Just a thought.

[Achernar]

I would be looking for binoculars with objective lenses at least 50mm in diameter. If you can afford them, 70 or 80mm glasses would be far better, most comets are small and faint. If you are going with large binoculars, a sturdy tripod or some other way to support them will be necessary. There is a reasonable chance that PANSTARRS and ISON will get bright enough for Earthlings to get a good look at them, but there are no guaruntees. I would therefore take the binoculars along with a small telescope, the binoculars will at least help you locate it.

Taras

[jim4nd]

Thank you for your words of wisdom, guys. I am in my early 50's but still seem to manage 6mm exit pupil. I have a Meade ETX 105MM. A binoviewer (maybe WO?) is on the wish list. I currently have a Parks 15x80 mounted on a Bogen 3011 and 3126. I think I will augment this with some 10x50 binos. Right now I am leaning toward a Bushnell 10x50 Legacy. (B&H has them for $75.) Probably be a month or so before I can pull the trigger on the binos.

[dpwoos]

Don't assume that you will be able to hand hold 10x50 binos comfortably - not everyone can.

[jerwin]

The canon image stabilizing binos are pricy, but pretty awesome if you're not using a tripod.

Jim

[BluewaterObserva]

I love my 11x80's....

For the larger apparent sized comets, they probably are best. I did the binoviewer thing for a while, but there is something magical about the quick hand held looks the 11x80's and even the tripod mounted 25x100's afford on such comets indeed.

[wky46]

I'm one of those who cannot hand hold 10x50's. For me, it's just too frustrating an endeavor to even try. I have to put them on at least a camera tripod, but unfortunately a tripod is not practical for positions at or near zenith. As some here on the the Binocular forum knows, I just ordered a Manfrotto Magic Arm that holds the binoculars hands free, and clamps onto a chair. Hopefully they can accomodate my heavier 20x80's as well. I'll be ready for any comet that comes my way now! .....Phil

[Spaced]

You've received excellent advice here, to which I'll add two brief comments.

Before deciding on a specific purchase be sure to look at some of the articles on "sticky" threads in the binocular forum. There are some terrific apples-to-apples comparisons there which might be of much help.

Also, don't underestimate the adverse effects on your view of shaky hands. If you can't hold them really, really still they lose much of their utility and detract much from your enjoyment. While 10 X 50s are generally considered the max a guy can hold steady, I personally find that I can't hold 10X binocs steady, hence you see the 8X binocs in my signature. I recently acquired a pair of 12X, imaged stabilized glasses and I now realize that I can't even hold the 8X as still as I thought I was doing!

[Jon Isaacs]

Just as for deep-sky observing, a good, all round bino might be a 10X50. It offers a good balance of hand holdability, decent penetration and detail, wide field (I recommend the wide field types having a 6.5 degree field--or larger)

I find 10x 42's and 10 x 50s to be a reasonable choice as an all around binocular. Binoculars are very personal, fit is important and comfort is important. They're like shoes, what works for one person may not work for someone else. Findomg the right binocular is a trial and error process.

- Holding them reasonably steady is important,
some binoculars are easier to hold steady than others. And some require different techniques to hold them steady, experimentation, trial and error. Finding the right place to hold them, often out near the objectives, position of the arms, placement of the hands, all these things make a difference.

- Roof Prism versus Porro prism binoculars. I find roof prism binoculars are easier to hold steady than Porro prisms. Roof prisms are straight through and the better ones are water proof and oring sealed. Typically they have about 18mm -20mm of eye relief and are popular amount birders because they can focus within maybe 5 or 6 feet. In general, you get more for your money with Porro prism binoculars and often a wider field of view.

- Comets and binoculars: Initially, comets are quite faint in the so a telescope is usually a better choice. If the comet brightens and the tail lengthens, then a pair of binoculars is very nice but I choose my binoculars for all around use and not specifically for comets.

I believe a good set of hand holdable binoculars is something that every amateur should have. Even if you are not using them for observing the night sky, they are very helpful in learning the sky and for use in pointing a telescope.

Jon