
Advantages/Disadvantages of LZOS (OK4) Vs. FPL-53
#1
Posted 15 May 2013 - 08:39 AM
What are the advantages/disadvantages between these glass types, if any?
#2
Posted 15 May 2013 - 08:54 AM
OK4 disadvantage - LZOS keeps it all to themselves and makes their own lenses.
FPL53 disadvantage - I could buy some and fashion a *BLEEP* lens from it and tell you it's made from killer FPL53 glass.
OK4 advantage - LZOS makes truly killer lenses with their glass.
I see you are a 115 owner so you know the color correction of OK4 LZOS SD triplets is irreproachable.
#3
Posted 15 May 2013 - 12:13 PM
FPL-53 advantage - Ohara sells it to anyone who wants to make lenses from it.
OK4 disadvantage - LZOS keeps it all to themselves and makes their own lenses.
FPL53 disadvantage - I could buy some and fashion a *BLEEP* lens from it and tell you it's made from killer FPL53 glass.
OK4 advantage - LZOS makes truly killer lenses with their glass.
I see you are a 115 owner so you know the color correction of OK4 LZOS SD triplets is irreproachable.
Yes, my 115mm LZOS refractor is unbeatable and I love it. "Not everything on the internet is true..." but I was still surprised to read that some people consider OK4 and FPL-53 glass to be very similar. I used to have an Orion EON 80mm and it too had very good views and color correction, using FPL-53. Also, the highly regarded TMB130ss uses FPL-53.
Is there a difference in manufacturing and figuring of the lens that accounts for quality control of LZOS vs. anybody's FPL-53, or is there a qualitative difference between the two glass types?
Would a person be insane to trade a 115mm LZOS for a 130mm FPL-53?
#4
Posted 15 May 2013 - 01:10 PM
Would a person be insane to trade a 115mm LZOS for a 130mm FPL-53?
Certainly not if it's from TEC, Takahashi or Astro-Physics! As stated above, FPL-53 is used by lots of folks, from low-end Chinese stuff to the very top of the line. It's what they do with the glass that counts.
#5
Posted 15 May 2013 - 02:23 PM
Is there a difference in manufacturing and figuring of the lens that accounts for quality control of LZOS vs. anybody's FPL-53, or is there a qualitative difference between the two glass types?
Yes, absolutely. LZOS is the real deal. They along with AP and TEC grind, polish, and test their own lenses. And, in my first hand experience are really superb.
Would a person be insane to trade a 115mm LZOS for a 130mm FPL-53?
Not necessarily. I would want test each telescope individually on my bench then side-by-side in the field. Then, keep the best one. I value optical quality over aperture. If the smaller scope was higher in quality I'd keep it. Others, I am sure believe aperture is king and for some objects it is. But I prefer quality of over size.
#6
Posted 15 May 2013 - 03:20 PM
Both are simply outstanding.
In this situation as long as the manufacturer supplies a lens with an excellent figure - you are good to go.
What you NEED is the 115 AND the 130!

#7
Posted 15 May 2013 - 09:31 PM
What you NEED is the 115 AND the 130!
No, what I NEED is the 115 and an APM175 LZOS...but it ain't gonna happen.

#8
Posted 16 May 2013 - 03:37 AM
I value optical quality over aperture. If the smaller scope was higher in quality I'd keep it. Others, I am sure believe aperture is king and for some objects it is. But I prefer quality of over size.
+1

For me also, it's quality over quantity. There are enough folks in my personal surroundings whose buckets bring a lot of photons more or less into average focus

Additionaly, since the best scope is the one that you use most, portability is my second most important quality focusing my interest on a certain instrument...
Chris
#9
Posted 16 May 2013 - 04:38 AM
I value optical quality over aperture. If the smaller scope was higher in quality I'd keep it. Others, I am sure believe aperture is king and for some objects it is. But I prefer quality of over size.
Well, depends...
In few days I'll order new astrograph. I was deciding between APM 130/780 LZOS and TS 150/1000 and I opted for TS (both with Riccardi 0.75x FF/FR).
I know that LZOS has better optical quality but I expect TS to be fairly close which, in my opinion, more than compensate with aperture. Mechanically both scopes should be very close because I'm ordering TS APO with Feathertouch 3.5" focuser. And TS is few hundreds euro cheaper...
#10
Posted 16 May 2013 - 07:56 AM
I'll be very interested to hear your impressions of the TS 150. Please do let us know when you receive it and have a chance to test it out.
#11
Posted 16 May 2013 - 08:43 AM
#12
Posted 16 May 2013 - 03:32 PM
Would a person be insane to trade a 115mm LZOS for a 130mm FPL-53?
If they were trading to get the FPL-53, yes. If they were trading to get the 130mm aperture, maybe not.
The partial dispersion numbers for OK-4 and FPL-53 are not all that different, and LZOS makes a superb objective. I wouldn't switch because of the materials--there should be some other reason to make the change. As others have said, you can make a terrible telescope with first rate glass, and you can make a first rate telescope with either OK4 or FPL-53 (or even FPL-51, though not quite as fast a scope for a given color correction).
#13
Posted 16 May 2013 - 03:54 PM
Glass quality is an order of magnitude more important than glass type when it comes to refractor performance. Similarly, the quality and selection of mating glasses is every bit as important as the type of ED glass used. You can make an FPL-51 triplet with a much better figure and much better color correction than an FPL-53 triplet of the same aperture. How? By making more sensible mating glass choices on the former than the latter, and by extending the focal length of the instrument. Buying any scope based on the type of ED glass used, alone, is a fool's game. Only gullible and the uniformed fall for that one. Believing that FPL-53 in any way ensures a better telescope is akin to believing that the requirement for higher octane fuel ensures a better automobile.
A telescope is a system. The ED element in a refractor is just one small component of that system. To really know what you're buying, you need to understand the key elements of the entire system. Knowing partial data for just one element tells you nothing.
More musings on the topic of recognizing when you're being "sold to" by a manufacturer promoting a feature that is more or less irrelevant and uninformative:
http://tinyurl.com/aepzr6r
Regards,
Jim