9 replies to this topic

[Doggie]

Hi,

As part of my real work, as oppossed to my day job, I purchased an MN56. I have always wanted one and so felt my soul would not rest from it's worldly burden until I had purchased one.

It should arrive in about two weeks. Having a realistic appraisal of my tendancy to purchase and try out scopes I bought it used. It is about two years old, in good shape, and has the new style crayford focuser, the lighter clamshell, and the vented collector ring. I am really looking forward to it.

Given the trauma of shipping even with good packing I am anticipating the possibility of needing to collimate it. Collimating makes me nervous. It is just below the "D" word (Dentist)on my anxiety list. I had a Portaball at one point and did use a laser collimator on it but the mirror was marked making it fairly easy.

Basically I am looking for tips or pointers on collimating this scope. I did do some searching but found very little information except that folks seem to feel that it holds collimation well.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Best,

Paul

[Doug Culbertson]

Collimating a Maknewt is done exactly the same way you would collimate a regular Newtonian. The primary mirrors on the Intes-Micro MNs are all center marked, so collimation is pretty simple. There are three collimation screws under the screw on cover over the secondary mirror, and you will find a total of six screws for collimating the primary mirror. Three of those screws (the larger ones) are for collimation, and the three smaller screws are for locking the mirror once collimation is achieved. Keep in mind that if you tighten the smaller screws too much, that you will throw your collimation off a tad, so easy on tightening those.

If you don't already have any collimation tools, I would suggest that at the minimum you purchase the Orion sight tube/Cheshire. If you want to go all out, get the CatsEye collimation tools. I find I seldom use my laser since I got the CatsEye tools, but I used to use the Orion all in one tool and achieved accurate collimation.

BTW, congrats on the MN56! I think you will like it quite a bit. Did you decide what mount to use with it?

[Bob A (SD)]

Paul,

Paul Hyndman wrote a great article here that addresses this issue: Intes-Micro Mak-Newt Collimation Procedures

Great scope too !! I use a Helix hologram laser and a Cheshire eyepiece from dbaAstronomy.

Best!

[Psa19one]

Great 'scope. I had a MN66 at one time and wish now I would never have sold it! The nice thing about Mak-Newts is that they tend to hold collimation pretty well.

Give us a report when you get it!

[Doug Culbertson]

Great 'scope. I had a MN66 at one time and wish now I would never have sold it!

Same here. I don't know what gets into me sometimes...

[rodrake]

I've got a newer MN56 purchased April '04. The primary has three pairs of screws as mentioned above but my secondary only has two adjustment screws under the cover. Loosening/tightening the pair adjusts the secondary tilt. Rotation is adjusted by loosening the retaining ring just below the cap and turning the secondary holder. Once collimated, I find that I rarely need to adjust it.

[Doug Culbertson]

I've got a newer MN56 purchased April '04. The primary has three pairs of screws as mentioned above but my secondary only has two adjustment screws under the cover. Loosening/tightening the pair adjusts the secondary tilt. Rotation is adjusted by loosening the retaining ring just below the cap and turning the secondary holder. Once collimated, I find that I rarely need to adjust it.

You're right, there were only two screws under the cap of my secondary cap too! Sorry for the senior moment... :o

[Matt Looby]

Hi Paul,

I have catseye passive collimator for primary. Collimation is a snap.
I dont recommend that you loosen the retaining ring.

You can accomplish centering the secondary by adjusting the focuser assembly.

Get the Catseye collimator and check out the website.
I highly recommend an Intes-Micro or Intes chesire site tube because they fit snuggly in the focuser. Stay away from Orion brand tubes because there is too much play.

The Mak-Newts are real easy to collimate and stay collimated .
Anyway, if you run into a snag, PM me and we'll talk.
I owned the MN56.
There are some drawings in my gallery (a lot) using this scope!

Take it easy,

Matt Looby

[Doggie]

Hi All,

Thanks for the tips. Sounds like I can move collimation to below "the dentist" on my dread list . I will do a bit more reading and then get a tool for alignment.

My new (used) Giro head came today. I have been using the little Giro Mini and decided that the bigger Giro2 Deluxe would be good with the MN56. Wow! I am pretty sure my postman will never speak to me again. That head is WAY bigger than the Mini. I thought that Giro had one that was just a little bigger but this is a yard cannon holster. The instructions say it can take two 50 pounders on each side. Picture a beer maiden at the Hofbrauhaus holding 6 beer steins in each hand. It should do the job for my 11 pound ~30 inch tube.

Thanks again.

Paul

[Chutzpah]

I use a Cheshire then fine tune with a barlowed laser on my MN56 because the black donut centre ring throws a very nice shadow and you can easily see the paper cover on the bottom of the barlow lens as it's a low profile focuser. Once you get it collimated it's pretty good at staying that way, as others have pointed out.

Hope you love the scope - I know I love mine!