Any Collimation Tips for MN56?
Posted 07 October 2005 - 11:11 AM
As part of my real work, as oppossed to my day job, I purchased an MN56. I have always wanted one and so felt my soul would not rest from it's worldly burden until I had purchased one.
It should arrive in about two weeks. Having a realistic appraisal of my tendancy to purchase and try out scopes I bought it used. It is about two years old, in good shape, and has the new style crayford focuser, the lighter clamshell, and the vented collector ring. I am really looking forward to it.
Given the trauma of shipping even with good packing I am anticipating the possibility of needing to collimate it. Collimating makes me nervous. It is just below the "D" word (Dentist)on my anxiety list. I had a Portaball at one point and did use a laser collimator on it but the mirror was marked making it fairly easy.
Basically I am looking for tips or pointers on collimating this scope. I did do some searching but found very little information except that folks seem to feel that it holds collimation well.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Posted 07 October 2005 - 11:52 AM
If you don't already have any collimation tools, I would suggest that at the minimum you purchase the Orion sight tube/Cheshire. If you want to go all out, get the CatsEye collimation tools. I find I seldom use my laser since I got the CatsEye tools, but I used to use the Orion all in one tool and achieved accurate collimation.
BTW, congrats on the MN56! I think you will like it quite a bit. Did you decide what mount to use with it?
Posted 07 October 2005 - 12:51 PM
Give us a report when you get it!
Posted 07 October 2005 - 01:26 PM
Great 'scope. I had a MN66 at one time and wish now I would never have sold it!
Same here. I don't know what gets into me sometimes...
Posted 07 October 2005 - 03:49 PM
Posted 07 October 2005 - 05:03 PM
I've got a newer MN56 purchased April '04. The primary has three pairs of screws as mentioned above but my secondary only has two adjustment screws under the cover. Loosening/tightening the pair adjusts the secondary tilt. Rotation is adjusted by loosening the retaining ring just below the cap and turning the secondary holder. Once collimated, I find that I rarely need to adjust it.
You're right, there were only two screws under the cap of my secondary cap too! Sorry for the senior moment... :o
Posted 07 October 2005 - 09:54 PM
I have catseye passive collimator for primary. Collimation is a snap.
I dont recommend that you loosen the retaining ring.
You can accomplish centering the secondary by adjusting the focuser assembly.
Get the Catseye collimator and check out the website.
I highly recommend an Intes-Micro or Intes chesire site tube because they fit snuggly in the focuser. Stay away from Orion brand tubes because there is too much play.
The Mak-Newts are real easy to collimate and stay collimated .
Anyway, if you run into a snag, PM me and we'll talk.
I owned the MN56.
There are some drawings in my gallery (a lot) using this scope!
Take it easy,
Posted 07 October 2005 - 10:14 PM
Thanks for the tips. Sounds like I can move collimation to below "the dentist" on my dread list . I will do a bit more reading and then get a tool for alignment.
My new (used) Giro head came today. I have been using the little Giro Mini and decided that the bigger Giro2 Deluxe would be good with the MN56. Wow! I am pretty sure my postman will never speak to me again. That head is WAY bigger than the Mini. I thought that Giro had one that was just a little bigger but this is a yard cannon holster. The instructions say it can take two 50 pounders on each side. Picture a beer maiden at the Hofbrauhaus holding 6 beer steins in each hand. It should do the job for my 11 pound ~30 inch tube.
Posted 10 October 2005 - 03:18 PM
Hope you love the scope - I know I love mine!