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USB corded shutter control for Nikon

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198 replies to this topic

#26 SUNJiaLin

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 08:08 PM

Hello CCS !
Your DIY is really interesting me, but I'm absolutely not electronician and maybe my questions will be stupid.
I also looked at your other thread with IR remotes and it rose me 2 questions :
1/ You are using 2 different transistors : corded = 2SA1015 and remote = 2N3906. Is it possible to use the same transistor for both project ? (like that I would like to be more flexible and use the 2 kind : MC-DC2 or ML-L3)
2/ If I weld the germanium diodes inside the MC-DC2, is it possible to use it in normal way like if Nikon delivered it, or is it definitively dedicated to PC cord shutter controler ?
Didier
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#27 ccs_hello

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 12:04 AM

Didier

Your questions are perfectly fine.

In developing solutions, multiple iterations were made. I now suggest 2SA1015 due to lower cost, low Vce(sat), as well as I have many to send out for free.

2. Yes, Nikon remote cable remains fully functional.

Clear Skies!

ccs_hello

#28 SUNJiaLin

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 03:39 AM

Thanks a lot for your prompt answer and good support.
For the transistors, it is a bit difficult for me, I'm living in China and it more easy to buy directly in China. Import or Export are sometime difficult...
Thanks again,
Didier

#29 ccs_hello

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 05:21 AM

?? I sourced 2SA1015 from China (alibaba) :)

#30 SUNJiaLin

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 07:42 PM

Hi Steve,
I saw on BYN forum that you have done a set:
- Could give me the spec and/or the price ?
Thanks in advance,
Didier

#31 SUNJiaLin

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 07:58 PM

You're right, but for China resident it is no so easy, by example on eBay most of the MC-DC2 are made in China (Shenzhen) and when your delivery address is in China mainland, you get : "No delivery in China" , I think that those companies got only a commercial licence for exportation and not a commercial licence for local market.
It is a reason why most of the exportation companies are office based in HK and factories are in China. So from everywhere in the world it seems stupid, but it is China.
By the way, do you have made the cable you speack at the begining of your IR remote thread : "It can be easily adapted for EQ6/Atlas Synscan computer remote control cable (EQDIR cable) to the mount." ??
If I success for my Nikon, I am tempted to try for the mount.
Didier

#32 ccs_hello

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 08:48 PM

Didier,

Can you order thru aliexpress? Also, try TaoBao.

EQDIR internally uses the main chip FTDI232rl. I think it also added the LVTTL buffer (3.3v to 5v). One in and one out for RxD/TxD.

Clear Skies!

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#33 SUNJiaLin

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 08:55 PM

You are very kind. I have some chinese colleagues who are doing it through taobao, I'm French and my chinese is not good enought.
Where are you living ? You answered me within minutes !

#34 ccs_hello

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 09:00 PM

USA

#35 SUNJiaLin

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 11:38 PM

You mean that USB dongle can be used directly to drive an ASCOM mount, just to add the right connector at the mount's side of the cable ?
Didier

#36 SUNJiaLin

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 12:02 AM

hjffgk

#37 ccs_hello

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 05:53 AM

No. EQDIR is to drive Synscan equipped mount, not ASCOM capable mount.

#38 SUNJiaLin

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 09:29 PM

Ok clear.
Another question:
By using PC control and specially Live View, the battery is not long enough for the night.
- Do you know some DIY to make external power to Nikon D90 ?
Currently, I have the choice between genuine Nikon EH-5b costing 170$ and clones at 20$. Even if I love Nikon, 170$ for 9V DC is quite to much and clones connectors seems not so reliables...
Thanks in advance,
Didier

#39 kalasinman

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 06:20 AM

http://www.ebay.com/...&_trksid=p39... Connect one end to a car battery or splice to a cigarette lighter type cord. Other end to nikon D-90 plug. I have a d5100, so not sure what cord fits a d-90.

#40 SUNJiaLin

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 07:59 PM

Hi Kalasinman,
The eBay link is off, anyway I found an other link.
Do you meet any problem with the maximum current 2A ?
If you look at the AC Adaptor EH-5 it is specified 9V 4.5A.
Did you try it without your battery in the camera ?
Anyway thanks for the link, I will continue to digg...

#41 Bruciesheroes

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 03:58 PM

Thanks for this tutorial. I built one and it works like a charme. 

 

greetings


Edited by Bruciesheroes, 28 January 2015 - 11:15 AM.


#42 Cicsprog

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Posted 31 January 2015 - 05:39 PM

Here's another alternative cable for triggering nikon cameras with BULB greater than 30 seconds:

http://www.otelescop...king/#entry4577


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#43 Geo.

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Posted 31 January 2015 - 05:48 PM

Really wish someone else will pick up this project. It is open.
All I can say is I might consider giving out 2 Germanium diodes, 1 PNP transistor, and 4k7 resistor for free.

Clear Skies!

ccs_hello

You got'ta stop buying those 100 transistor packs for $3  :lol: 
 



#44 PeteM

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 05:24 PM

Does anyone know if this DIY project will work with SGP?



#45 ccs_hello

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 06:54 PM

Pete,

 

Ask SGP if it supports

 "RTS" signal in COM port 

based shutter control.

 

Clear Skies!

 

ccs_hello



#46 theChef613

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Posted 21 October 2015 - 01:50 PM

Hello! thank you for posting this design! I am currently trying to make this but its not working for me I am using a Nikon D80 and got an MCDC1 cable and set up just like how you set it up please help! thank you!



#47 ccs_hello

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Posted 21 October 2015 - 07:19 PM

Hi, several steps to check

 

<< correction on step 2>>

 

1. Plug-in MC-DC1 cable to the Nikon D80 end, then turn on D80

2. (Assuming this special shutter release cable is fully assembled...)  Do NOT plug-in the USB-TTL serial dongle to the PC, just short these two leads: "transistor Emitter" (red lead in post 3)  and "Gnd" (black lead)

   Do you see D80 is taking a shot?  If yes, continue to next step.  If not, it is on the MC-DC1 cable side, including the two diodes.

 

3. Now plug-in the USB-TTL serial dongle, go to "Control Panel", click "Device Manager"

    Expand the "Port" section, do you see the new serial port being identified?  If not it's the device driver problem.

    If yes, write down the COM port number, say COM7.

 

 4. Now run Backyard Nikon (or other program), select the remote shutter device to be "RTS" remote trigger (or whatever it is called nowadays) with the correct COM port number noted in step 3.

 

P.S. show what you've purchased would help.

 

Clear Skies!

 

ccs_hello


Edited by ccs_hello, 22 October 2015 - 07:00 AM.


#48 theChef613

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 02:47 AM

thank you for your reply!! ill have check it out this week and get back to you, im using dslr shutter not backyard nikon is that going to be a problem?



#49 ccs_hello

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 09:55 AM

"DSLRShutter" should be fine. Please choose RTS-controlled shutter.  Pick the corresponding COM port as well.



#50 theChef613

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 01:51 PM

hello again, i havens had a chance to test it out again i should later today meanwhile here are the links for the items i bought:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181543685138

http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o06_s00

http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o08_s00

http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o09_s00

i got the 4.7kohm 1/8 watt resister from radio shack




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