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USB corded shutter control for Nikon

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#76 ccs_hello

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 05:43 PM

===================================

How to figure out the camera shutter wiring

===================================

See diagram:

kszxjCN1.png

Wire two diodes, only tie black ring side together,

 

Now use labels to mark (A) terminal, (B) terminal <-- (A) and (B) can be swapped interchangeably

and also mark ( C) terminal where two black rings joined together.

 

On the camera shutter control cable side, recording down the colors (e.g., it has the Red-Black-Grey color-coded wires)

 

 

Use a regular Nikon auto-focus lens (in AF setting), turn camera ON, set control to "M", 1-second exp time is good.

 

Use a pen and pencil to create and write down various permutations. 

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>   Procedure 1  <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Try Grey (as the "Common") wire first,  connect that wire to terminal ( C).

- now try Red wire to connect to terminal (A), do you hear the lens attempting to focus on some object?

     ###    If yes, Red is the "FOCUS" wire, and Black is the "Snap" wire

                    (to verify, tie Red to (A), then tie Black to (B) the camera should take a shot

     ###    if no (disconnect Red wire, still leave Grey wire connected to terminal ( C)

- now try Black wire to connect to terminal (A), do you hear the lens attempting to focus on some object?

     ###    If yes, Black is the "FOCUS" wire, and Red is the "Snap" wire

                    (to verify, tie Black to (B), then tie Red to (A) the camera should take a shot

     ###    if no, Grey wire is not the "Common" wire

 

 

{Repeat the above steps in procedure 1, except this time, assume Red is the "Common" wire, then figure out Black wire and Grey wire's function)

     If this procedure fails, this leads to the last chance:

 

{Repeat the above steps in procedure 1, except this time, assume Black is the "Common" wire, then figure out Red wire and Grey wire's function)
     If this procedure fails, something is terribly wrong.

 

 

Clear Skies!

 

ccs_hello


Edited by ccs_hello, 18 July 2017 - 05:50 PM.


#77 ccs_hello

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 05:53 PM

re: works only once, then USB-serial port disconnects itself

 

Some kind of abnormal condition.

Care to show or point out what type of USB-serial dongle you've purchased?



#78 Quinnn

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 06:52 PM

re: works only once, then USB-serial port disconnects itself

 

Some kind of abnormal condition.

Care to show or point out what type of USB-serial dongle you've purchased?

the serial port doesnt disconnect, after the first shot, BYN throws an error. but it is still connected.

 

I got the dongle that you linked, the same exact one



#79 Quinnn

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 06:29 PM

Solder the RED wire to the remaining lead which is 2SA1015's Collector.

Did you mean emitter here? my  data sheet says that it should be emitter:

 

U5HNJYI.png



#80 ccs_hello

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Posted 20 July 2017 - 07:14 AM

Yes, you are right.

Red wire goes to 2SA1015's emitter.



#81 ccs_hello

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Posted 20 July 2017 - 07:24 AM

Add two internal pictures on the 6pin PL2303HXD USB-serial dongle:

 

RTS wire is yellow-colored

DSC02599.JPG

Gnd wire is black-colored

DSC02601.JPG

 

The chip is 2303HXD  <-- D is shown in the circled text


Edited by ccs_hello, 20 July 2017 - 07:28 AM.


#82 khobar

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Posted 26 August 2017 - 09:54 PM

I've read this thread and am fascinated. Thank you for the info!

 

I have a D5100 and just ordered parts from Ebay, but I have one question. Does the chipset on the USB board matter? For example, I bought this: http://www.ebay.com/...872.m2749.l2649

Will that work?



#83 ccs_hello

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Posted 27 August 2017 - 07:25 AM

That board won't work.

You'll need a board with RTS signal exposed.

 

Also, there are several "do not recommend to use" USB-serial ICs versions.  They are related to FTDI and Prolific corp doing some tricks to make end-users' life miserable (long story.)



#84 khobar

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Posted 27 August 2017 - 11:12 AM

Thanks!

 

It said 6-pin but I see now it has only 5 and from the picture is missing the RTS. However, reading the description it says,

"- Standard USB type A male and TTL 6 pin connector. 6 pins for 3.3V, RST, TXD, RXD, GND, 5V  

- All handshaking and modem interface signals"

 

I've contacted the seller for clarification., but I guess I really don't know what I'm getting until I open the box. 

 

Was that USB-serial ICs underlined in your reply a link? I'd like to read that. If so, can you repost it? Thx!


Edited by khobar, 27 August 2017 - 11:22 AM.


#85 ccs_hello

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Posted 27 August 2017 - 08:18 PM

RTS is one of the serial RS232 full control signal suite.

 

The fleabay item description obviously is wrong.

It might have meant for "RST" <-- RESET signal, typically used in Arduino reset signal for Arduino .ino  program download.

 

re: these two IC mfg's business practice...

 

It was a ugly/dark history of semiconductor mfrs' very misguided business practice.

It was briefly mentioned in Software subforum here in CN.

I'd rather leave it behind and forget the nightmare.  Readers here should be spared as well.


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#86 ccs_hello

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 10:13 PM

Just to add:

 

APT also supports this RTS-serial COM port based shutter triggering method.


Edited by ccs_hello, 09 October 2017 - 10:13 PM.


#87 Quinnn

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Posted 27 October 2017 - 02:45 PM

My cable has been flaky since I made it, and now it is not working at all.

 

When plugging it in, windows recognizes the com port, but when shooting through byn or any other tool, the camera never actually fires, and the software either hangs or gives an error.

 

I am sure this is a hardware issue as I have tried 3 different computers.

 

Any idea what might be causing it? It's hard for me to see the components since I hot glued them in place inside my enclosure.



#88 ccs_hello

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Posted 27 October 2017 - 07:52 PM

Which USB-serial dongle module you were using?

This one https://www.cloudyni...l/#entry5931201

or later dongle?

 

In Computer, Control Panel, Device Manager,

what's under Ports (COM & LPT)

or if there is unknown device?


Edited by ccs_hello, 27 October 2017 - 09:21 PM.


#89 Quinnn

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 02:18 PM

I have rebuilt this cable on a breadboard, and now I have /yet another/ issue. I'm almost wondering if it's worth just buying the shoestring astronomy cable :(

 

 

When doing bulb exposure on BYN with the rebuilt cable, the shutter opens, but never closes. the exposure never finishes and BYN eventually times out. The only way to close the shutter on the D5100 is to shut it off, or disconnect the serial cable.

 

Could my usb-serial cable be  bad? it's the same exact one that was linked earlier in this post.



#90 ccs_hello

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 07:07 PM

Quinnn

 

Sorry to see you're struggling.  I don't think at this point it's worthwhile to do online virtual debugging.

Unfortunately the era that people can find the local electronic repair shop in town (like Heathkit's backroom) in town is long gone.

 

Clear Skies!

 

ccs_hello



#91 Quinnn

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 08:41 PM

I understand. I will post this here in case anyone else happens to see a flaw in the way I laid this board out. I'm at a loss, it should be in every way identical to the others posted here.

 

7JkFaqJ.png



#92 ccs_hello

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 09:32 PM

That is great you have the circuit clearly laid out.

Can we try the following steps:   see picture

 

0) Delete the interconnect in between D, E, and F

1) Delete right-hand side (connecting to USB-serial dongle)  G and H (Black and Yellow wires)

 

2) assume A is focus, B is snap, and C is Common; attach an Auto-Focus lens to Nikon D5100 and set it to AF, "A" mode and trying to shoot some object

3) Use an extra wire to tie D and C together, you should hear lens hunting trying to focus

    Don't remove that wire yet

4) Still maintain step 3, use one more extra temporary wire to tie E and C together, the camera should take a shot 

7JkFaqJ_diag.jpg

 

If it is okay at this point, remove temporary wires (used for testing) in steps 3 and 4, move on to part II post #93


Edited by ccs_hello, 07 November 2017 - 09:44 PM.

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#93 ccs_hello

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Posted 07 November 2017 - 09:41 PM

<<  revised 11/8  >>

 

If post #92 test steps are working okay, continue...

 

5) Tie D, E, and F back together (just like your original picture's "Green wire"), return to the original circuit on that part of circuit

6) Use an extra (temporary) wire to tie F and C together, you should hear lens hunting and almost immediately taking a shot

 

So far so good...   Now step 6 is finished, no need on that temporary wire   (just return to normal board)

 

7) Use an extra (temporary) wire to tie H and C together, you should hear lens hunting and almost immediately taking a shot

                                                                       <-- edit

 

This means the transistor control circuit is also fine; this entire board is fine.


Edited by ccs_hello, 08 November 2017 - 08:58 PM.


#94 Quinnn

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 06:51 PM

 

3) Use an extra wire to tie D and C together, you should hear lens hunting trying to focus

    Don't remove that wire yet

Got my hands on an AF lens, and this is what I discover.

 

Wen doing step 3, nothing happens. connecting C to D or E does not do anything. However, connecting C to  B makes the camera hunt for AF.

 

Could this mean that A) my diodes are bad, and/or B) A needs to be swapped with B?

 

Edit: I have swapped A and B, and still experience the same issue, no reaction when connecting to the diodes.

 

I checked the diodes with a multimeter and they appear okay.

 

s2Km9zt.png

 

If I connect the purple wire, nothing happens. if I connect the blue wire, it hunts for focus. if I connect the green wire when the blue wire is connected, it takes a shot as expected.

 

Am I right to assume that the issue lies within the D diode?


Edited by Quinnn, 10 November 2017 - 07:40 PM.


#95 ccs_hello

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 07:38 PM

If C tied to B, and lens starts to hunt (and hope it locked-on to an object, you should hear a Beep.

Immediately after...

Then add A also to the already tied B+C, now you will have A, B, C all three tied together, the camera should take a shot.

 

If not, there is something wrong on the camera connector side (plug or socket.)

What camera model is it?



#96 Quinnn

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 08:01 PM

If C tied to B, and lens starts to hunt (and hope it locked-on to an object, you should hear a Beep.

Immediately after...

Then add A also to the already tied B+C, now you will have A, B, C all three tied together, the camera should take a shot.

 

If not, there is something wrong on the camera connector side (plug or socket.)

What camera model is it?

Yes, this works correctly, so there is nothing wrong with the camera or cable.

 

The camera is a D5100.



#97 ccs_hello

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Posted 13 November 2017 - 08:47 AM

Reverse the diode direction.

If you see my earlier post, it should be obvious.



#98 GigiG

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Posted 26 February 2018 - 08:48 AM

Hi, here is my version. It works like a charm. Only a little strange behaviour when connecting my D80. The camera takes 2/3 shots at first connection without any request. However, I found that (trial and error testing) this behaviour doesn't happen with the following connection sequence (needs further testing but it seems to avoid the problem):

  • plug the USB dongle in the USB's PC port
  • open DSLR_Shutter application and select COM port
  • plug MC-DC1 Nikon connector to D80
  • power on D80

Thanks ccs_hello!

Regards

Gigi



#99 deSitter

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Posted 13 March 2018 - 02:16 AM

Is this an ongoing issue? What are the commercial alternatives? Does someone have a cable setup that definitely works with a D5100?

 

TIA

 

-drl



#100 cbayschm

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Posted 03 May 2018 - 09:13 PM

Hi guys, 

 

First of all I want to thank ccs_hello for sharing this! I bought the components a couple days ago and made the cable yesterday. It is working like a charm!

 

I did have some issues with Astrophotography Tool hanging when I first tried it, but I had not configured the port correctly.

 

I am using a FTDI FT232RL USB to TTL/RS232 6pin cable and didn't have any issues with the latest drivers. 

 

If I connect the cable to the PC while the Camera is Connected it will fire a couple of shots, but I am pretty sure that is the RTS signal doing it's thing when the drivers kick in.

 

I am using Windows 10, latest FTDI drivers from their web page, and latest Astrophotography Tool v3.53

 

If anybody has questions let me know.

 

Best Regards,

 

Carlos


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