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USB corded shutter control for Nikon

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#101 GigiG

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Posted 04 May 2018 - 01:59 AM

Hi Carlos,

 

If I connect the cable to the PC while the Camera is Connected it will fire a couple of shots, but I am pretty sure that is the RTS signal doing it's thing when the drivers kick in.

 

 

Same thing happens to me (see my post #98 above). Have you tried my suggested sequence?

 

Gigi

 


Edited by GigiG, 04 May 2018 - 02:01 AM.


#102 cbayschm

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Posted 04 May 2018 - 03:56 AM

Hi Gigi,

 

 

Hi Carlos,

 

 

Same thing happens to me (see my post #98 above). Have you tried my suggested sequence?

 

Gigi

 

 

Yeah, I tried your sequence and it works. :D

 

I will keep using it your way so I don't have to delete bad pictures :)

 

Thanks for the heads up!

 

Carlos



#103 Luggi

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Posted 21 June 2018 - 12:24 AM

Thank you guys for your advice.

 

It is working pretty well :)

 

20180619_191922_HDR.jpg



#104 moxican

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 01:54 PM

I am also doing this. I could get my hands on 1N34 diodes. Safe to assume that grey = black end?

 

6.jpg



#105 moxican

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 02:49 PM

Only 1/8w resistor is good. I could get 1/2w and 1/4w. It is difficult to get 1/8w



#106 drneilmb

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 03:22 PM

I am also doing this. I could get my hands on 1N34 diodes. Safe to assume that grey = black end?

Yes. The "banded" end is the marked one, no matter what color the band is. :)



#107 moxican

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 04:18 PM

Yes. The "banded" end is the marked one, no matter what color the band is. smile.gif

Thanks. Do you happen to know if only 1/8w resistor is working. It is a bit difficult to get



#108 cbayschm

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 08:17 PM

Thanks. Do you happen to know if only 1/8w resistor is working. It is a bit difficult to get

You can use other wattage resistors, anything over 1/8W is OK, that will only change the heat dissipation capacity of the resistor, not it's value. Just to be safe use something bigger, like 1/4W which should be more easy to find.


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#109 moxican

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 10:20 PM

I just did this and it is not working. The moment I plug it in the laptop in opens the shutter and stays that way. Regardless of what software I use there is no live view or any shutter control although com5 is selected, that is the designated com port. The shutter stays open until I unplug the cable. I installed the necessary drivers as recommended, the system recognizes the dongle.

What did I screw up?



#110 ccs_hello

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 11:13 PM

I'd suggest taking few digital pictures and either PM me or post here.

 

Also, LiveView (image/streaming transfer) and camera control is done thru USB cable, not this Shutter control cable.



#111 moxican

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 08:48 AM

I decided to leave the push button option for long exposure as I have a really light set up that does not require a laptop. I triple checked everything and all the connections make sense. The only thing that I see is that I soldered the 4.7K ohm resistor the other way around. I do not know if it matters. 

Interestingly though, now even the remote works funny. It should be (it was), first (white) + second (yellow) = focus + third (red) = exposure. Now it takes exposure on first + second without touching third. I have tried to go after this and resolder the resistor and germanium diode to no avail. I do not have an autofocus lens, so that I couldn't test. This id really frustrating me.

 

Here is how it looked when I opened it up

 

1.jpg

 

And here is the finished product

 

2.jpg

 

3.jpg

 

4.jpg

 

Here is the wiring diagram of the usb dongle from the sellers website.

 

Wiring d.jpg



#112 ccs_hello

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 06:56 PM

PNP transistor 2n5087 pinout (from left to right) is E-B-C

 

Our original design transistor 2SA1015 pinout order E-C-B is not in that order:

 

You have to swap the center wire withe the right-hand wire.


Edited by ccs_hello, 03 August 2018 - 07:00 PM.


#113 moxican

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 07:33 PM

Yes that was the issue. It is solved now thanks to you. You are a life saver. Help is much appreciated waytogo.gif



#114 moxican

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 07:38 PM

That means placing the 4.7k ohm resistor at the center as well right?



#115 ccs_hello

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 09:15 PM

4.7k ohm resistor at the center



#116 ryandkg

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Posted 20 October 2018 - 09:46 PM

Instead of sacrificing a remote, would it be possible to use one of these (https://www.ebay.com...=item285dc804b9) ?

 

From what I can see, the remote is just used as a donor for the right type of connector.  If so, then a phono jack on whatever is used to house the USB controller could link them.

 

Hope this doesn't seem too naive.



#117 skywolf856

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Posted 20 October 2018 - 11:34 PM

I was lucky enough to purchase one for my Nikon D7000, made by Steve Rosenow back when he was building them.



#118 ccs_hello

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Posted 21 October 2018 - 06:41 AM

@ ryandkg

 

Yes that shutter cord (without the pushbutton control) works.

One button of taking the remote shutter switch approach (though few dollars more) is you can still use the remote when not connecting to a PC.



#119 ccs_hello

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Posted 21 October 2018 - 06:42 AM

I was lucky enough to purchase one for my Nikon D7000, made by Steve Rosenow back when he was building them.

Stay away.  AFAIK he failed to deliver in the last round but kept the money.



#120 moxican

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Posted 21 October 2018 - 09:36 AM

Instead of sacrificing a remote, would it be possible to use one of these (https://www.ebay.com...=item285dc804b9) ?

 

From what I can see, the remote is just used as a donor for the right type of connector.  If so, then a phono jack on whatever is used to house the USB controller could link them.

 

Hope this doesn't seem too naive.

Yes, that would work great. I did not know that those cables exist. The main reason why I've chosen to go with the remote to be able to fire shutter without a PC. It made things all the more difficult as small cables I've used brake in the cold quite often. Thanks for the link though



#121 ryandkg

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Posted 25 October 2018 - 12:00 PM

Yes, that would work great. I did not know that those cables exist. The main reason why I've chosen to go with the remote to be able to fire shutter without a PC. It made things all the more difficult as small cables I've used brake in the cold quite often. Thanks for the link though

If you would like to try one out, PM me.  I just ordered a set of 4 and hopefully I will only need one.  I'm just down the road from you in Hamilton.



#122 ryandkg

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Posted 27 December 2018 - 04:28 PM

If you would like to try one out, PM me.  I just ordered a set of 4 and hopefully I will only need one.  I'm just down the road from you in Hamilton.

Well, the slow boat finally arrived.  Turns out the product description on Ebay was incorrect (shocking, I know).  The cables were actually MC-DC2, not 1.  So, I got a refund but now I'm back to square one.



#123 ryandkg

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Posted 30 December 2018 - 02:34 PM

Having committed myself (in my head) to not modifying an existing remote, I found another version of that shutter cable at a Canadian supplier (Henry's).

Products72434-1000x1000--1348947518.jpg

 

I breadboarded the connection and have tested it with DSLR Shutter.  Works as advertised.

 

I'll post a photo of the finished product shortly.

 

Thanks to you,  ccs_hello.



#124 ryandkg

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Posted 31 December 2018 - 06:59 PM

When I looked at building this adapter I was thinking of putting a very small box on the end of the USB cable to hold the 2.5mm stereo jack.  Now that it is built I think I will just use some shrink wrap to enclose and tidy up the gap between the jack and the end of the jacket on the USB.  This will keep it as low profile as possible.

 

I tried to keep everything close and tight as I soldered the components together.  Here are some snaps of the build progress...

 

IMG_0421_B.jpg

Keep the diodes close but use heatshrink to insulate input side

 

IMG_0422_B.jpg

Attach the common diode output to E, and the resistor to B (resistor is inside the tube of heatshrink

 

IMG_0423_B.jpg

Run GND to C on the transistor

 

IMG_0425_B.jpg

Connect to USB cable and do final test with camera.


Edited by ryandkg, 31 December 2018 - 07:00 PM.


#125 Astrodgi

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 10:47 AM

Hi,

 

It seems not to work with Nikon D3.

I am using a FTDI232 dongle with RTS and all the other components of the list.

NikonBackYard recognize the sérial câble, at the begin of the exposure the shutter opens but do not close at the end. And of course no image is transfered to Backyard.

The assembly seems to be correct.

Any idea About this ?

JMFTDI232.jpg




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