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USB corded shutter control for Nikon

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202 replies to this topic

#151 guyroch

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Posted 26 February 2019 - 09:56 PM

Need a fresh eye?  Let me take a stab at it.

 

Let's try to isolate this and see if this is cable related or camera related. 

 

Let's remove the cable from the equations for a short while.  Forget bulb, put the camera in the freezer and take a few non-bulb exposures with the regular USB cable only. 

 

Does it work or does it stops still?  Let it rip for a good 10 to 20 images.  Then report back.

 

Guylain



#152 Utopianninja

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 06:01 AM

I'm not sure if ccs_hello ment emmitter instead of collector but I did remove diodes and now "snap" & "focus" are weld together to emmitter. So nothing else changed and now it seems to work. I'll test it tonight and let you know if it truly works



#153 ccs_hello

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 07:56 AM

Sorry my bad.  I meant Emitter (not Collector.)

What's the part number on your diode?



#154 Utopianninja

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Posted 27 February 2019 - 09:40 AM

Diodes are 1N60. 



#155 Utopianninja

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Posted 28 February 2019 - 10:32 AM

It seems like it's working now! Yyeah! Thanks for helping!

#156 wesmcd6

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Posted 03 June 2019 - 11:02 AM

ccs_hello

Gonna build this.  Have you any transistors and diodes remaining?  BTW is the USB-Serial dongle PL2303HXD FTDI?  

 

Thanks,

Wes.



#157 luizrsilveira

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Posted 29 January 2020 - 01:21 PM

Hello folks! Nice! Gonna build this too.

 

Sorry to ressurect this topic.

 

Sadly, I wan'st able to find any 1n34 or 1n60. :( I'm on Brazil, and seens like these models rarely get here.

 

Is there another model of diodes I can use? I already tried some, but... I wasn't able to put the circuit to work until now.



#158 BGRE

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Posted 29 January 2020 - 04:09 PM

http://www.beskeen.c...lr_serial.shtml

 

I'd go with the second option using an optocoupler. Just the IC ($1 for 5pc) and a resistor - bulletproof scheme.

IN4001???

This guy is almost clueless.

1N4001's are 1A rectifiers intended for mains frequency applications.

They are slow switching, leaky and have relatively high capacitance.

A 1N914 or 1N4148 or similar signal diode would be more appropriate.

No need for germanium or Schottky diodes.

If small signal diodes are hard to get just use the emitter base junction of another 2N3904, these switch fast and have low leakage.

either leave the collector of the 2N3904 used as a diode floating or better connect it to its base.


Edited by BGRE, 29 January 2020 - 04:14 PM.


#159 luizrsilveira

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Posted 04 February 2020 - 08:51 AM

Hello again, folks! Just giving a feedback.

 

I made the device, but it wasn't working at all. I was really **** off, because I was sure I made everything right. I do have knoledge enough for a simple project like this.

 

Well, what I was not expecting at all is that the issue was on the "software" side. :p

 

I'm using APT with a Nikon D5000. To test this device I was trying the "Bulb" mode from APT. Whenever I click on Bulb (Set for 20s exposures) the camera opened the shutter for less than a second, close for less than a second, opened again and stay like that until I close APT (Not even disconnecting the camera from APT worked).

 

Not working timeline:

1 - Connect the camera via USB and Serial to PC;

2 - Open APT;

3 - Click on "Buld" (20 seconds exposures);

4 - Shutter open for less than a second;

5 - Shutter closes;

6 - Less than a second it opens again, and stay like that until I close APT or disconnect the USB or Serial dongle;

 

After some time struggling I found that if instead of start with the "bulb" mode from APT, I start via a light plan... it works like a charm.

 

Working timeline:

1 - Connect the camera via USB and Serial to PC;

2 - Open APT;

3 - Chose a light plan (Ex: 3 frames with 5 seconds each);

4 - Everything works like a charm. Even bulb mode;

 

I don't know why, but it is just like this. Maybe it is a hardware issue after all. Maybe the components I have aren't working as intended? Too much delay... I don't know.

 

If someone besides me is still using this gadget today, maybe it will help.



#160 moxican

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Posted 08 February 2020 - 04:46 PM

I also had issues when it is cold. I use the D5100 and while it works at room temperature, it does not in the cold. And it gets cold up here. 

I removed both diodes from the circuit, but now it does not work at all. I just cut the diodes out of the line, and connected both wires together to the same lead. 

Any other take on how to defeat the cold? Perhaps I did it wrong?



#161 ccs_hello

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Posted 09 February 2020 - 11:42 AM

My suggestion on the circuit itself is:

 

create two identical transistor control circuits (currently design only uses one, and uses two diodes as a combiner) using the control signal from same USB-Serial IC.  I.e., taking out two diodes and connect each control branch to its corresponding shutter control leads (snap and pre-focus)

 

About root cause analysis:

I will need to know all parts used and their acquisition sources.  Also what was the operating temperature on the DSLR itself and the control dingle as well.



#162 moxican

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Posted 09 February 2020 - 12:34 PM

I have 1N34 diodes 1/4W, 

PNP transistor 2n5087,

4.7k ohm resistor

It is winter up here now, so it is well below 0C at night. I'd say the remote control is operational up to about a few degrees centigrade. Anything below that and it stops working. Both the camera and a remote shutter release is the same temp I guess, they're in the same observatory.



#163 ccs_hello

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Posted 09 February 2020 - 05:21 PM

Are you getting the real point-contact Germanium diode or a so-called equivalent?  (That's why I asked for product source...)

point-contact.jpg

 



#164 moxican

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Posted 09 February 2020 - 07:21 PM

Are you getting the real point-contact Germanium diode or a so-called equivalent?  (That's why I asked for product source...)

attachicon.gifpoint-contact.jpg

This is the one I've got: https://secure.sayal....php?SKU=157182

I have no clue how to tell if it is a real deal or just an equivalent. 



#165 moxican

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Posted 10 February 2020 - 07:58 PM

No takes?



#166 moxican

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Posted 15 February 2020 - 01:12 PM

My suggestion on the circuit itself is:

 

create two identical transistor control circuits (currently design only uses one, and uses two diodes as a combiner) using the control signal from same USB-Serial IC.  I.e., taking out two diodes and connect each control branch to its corresponding shutter control leads (snap and pre-focus)

 

About root cause analysis:

I will need to know all parts used and their acquisition sources.  Also what was the operating temperature on the DSLR itself and the control dingle as well.

Could you make a quick and dirty wiring diagram about this solution please?



#167 ccs_hello

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Posted 16 February 2020 - 04:39 PM

Please try this:

 

Let's call (two 2SA1015 transistors) transistor A and transistor B .

Also, resistor A (4.7K ohm) and resistor B (4.7K ohm).

 

- USB-serial dongle's RTS lead connects to both Ra and Rb resistors' one side (yellow-violet-red color-code which is 4.7K ohm)

- Ra' resistor's other side connects to Transistor A' Base

- Rb' resistor's other side connects to Transistor B' Base

Both transistor A and Transistor B's Collectors connect to Ground. This pin is camera shutter control's "Common" (black wire.)

Transistor A's Emitter connects to shutter control's "pre-focus" wire.

Transistor B's Emitter connects to shutter control's "snap/record" wire.



#168 moxican

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Posted 21 February 2020 - 10:46 PM

Thanks for the details. It worked. I tested it in -17C and it worked flawlessly.

In case if someone needs to overcome the same issue, the attached schematics perhaps gives a better perspective.

My model of transistor lead out is EBC, instead of the mentioned ECB. Regardless it should work the same.

 

Shutter-Control-Schematic.jpg


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#169 ccs_hello

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Posted 22 February 2020 - 09:49 PM

Glad it works out well.  Thanks!



#170 titaniumADRIAN

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Posted 15 April 2020 - 06:56 PM

ok I need some help, I made this for my Nikon and it works great thank you, now I want to do the same thing but for my Panasonic for some reason I cant wrap my head around it to firgure out how to modify the circuit to work with this:

Panasonic-GH1-remote-shutter-control-sch

any help will be great!!!



#171 ccs_hello

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Posted 16 April 2020 - 08:05 AM

Need to know how Panny is controlled:

 

1. Can both shutter and focus be activated at the same time to take a shot (or better yet, just the "shutter" without the need of "focus")?

2. On the "Sleeve", is it sourcing 3.1V and then using the measured voltage drop (when button push) then voltage drops to a lower value as the indicator?

(or it's based on current draw method?)



#172 titaniumADRIAN

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Posted 16 April 2020 - 04:26 PM

#1 just the shutter can be used no need to focus

 

#2 Im sure the camera is supplying the 3.1volts and measuring the voltage drop

 

I was thinking of using a optocoupler pc817 instead of a transistor to keep the camera circuit isolated. 

Question is the RTS signal 5v when idle? and 0v when the shutter on?

im using the program DSLR shutter for testing



#173 ccs_hello

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Posted 16 April 2020 - 07:26 PM

In that case, using an opto-MOSFET Switch

on just the "shutter" control line should work (very little voltage drop on MOSFET.)

If you don't need galvanic isolation, use an analog switch CD4066 (type) might work as well.

 

RTS# when active ("shutter" on) is logic 1 which is 0V, and the normal logic 0 is 5V.

5V or 3.3V as logic 0 output is depend on the jumper setting of the USB-serial TTL/LVTTL dongle.


Edited by ccs_hello, 16 April 2020 - 07:31 PM.


#174 titaniumADRIAN

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Posted 16 April 2020 - 08:12 PM

ok thank you for your help

I just ordered the parts I need

this is what I came up with I'll report back if it works

gallery_67134_13006_10628.png



#175 ccs_hello

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Posted 16 April 2020 - 09:07 PM

Transistor has its own 0.7V voltage drop so either use a photo-MOSFET isolator or tune the resistor ladder.




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