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USB corded shutter control for Nikon

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#201 belliott4488



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Posted 22 October 2021 - 08:41 AM

What a great thread! Many thanks to ccs_hello, who is now officially on my list of Cloudy Nights Heroes. bow.gif  I am happy to report that I have read the entire thread - every post over six years and eight pages. 


I came across this thread because I want to take the next step with my trusty ol' Nikon D5000 and move from an intervalometer to Backyard Nikon. I'd like to try my hand at constructing the cable that is the topic of this thread, but I want to confirm one thing before I dive in:


Can the serial/USB dongle be connected to a USB hub, or must it be connected directly to a USB port on my laptop?


I'd like to connect the shutter control and USB data ports on my imaging camera (the Nikon) as well as the data port on my guide camera all to a USB hub, and then to run that to the laptop with a single USB cable.

Well, it seems that this thread is official comatose - no responses at all. When I found that many of the parts I'd need to buy are available only in bulk - so that I'd have to spend $10 to get 500 two cent resistors when I need one, for example - the total cost started approaching that of the DSUSB cable from Shoestring Astronomy. So ... I just bit the bullet and bought theirs. Oh, well.

#202 redeyed


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Posted 02 December 2021 - 06:54 AM

Hello there! 

Just bought cheap Canon 1000d, going to remove IR filter, and found out that bulk shuter isn't supported from USB.


Found this article: http://www.beskeen.c...lr_serial.shtml

It contais all information to build USB shutter (via USB-COM adapter)


Maybe it will help

#203 LAH



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Posted 09 June 2022 - 12:20 PM

I built one for my trusty old D300s and got it working on the bench recently. Haven't tried in action but hope would work reliably. I am reporting my experience in case someone might benefit since I could not find answers here for my specific situation and there seems to be no activity anymore on this thread.


I started off by building the original version (with diodes), however could not get it to work correctly. The problem was the shutter opens but will not close after the specified time. I rebuilt this version with fresh components and once more with different transistors to no avail. The result was the same.


I then moved on to try the diode free version (which uses two transistors, two resistors and no diodes) proposed by the OP and neatly sketched by moxican on post #168 . Which made it easier for me to understand how the design worked. This version looks much neater when built and was easier to manage for me. Apparently it also has the benefit of working in colder temperatures as reported by moxican. Once built, I initially got the same result as before but while fiddling with it soon realized disconnecting the dongle gnd lead solved the problem. With only the rts cable attached and the rest of the leads capped and stowed worked flawlessly for me.


I don't know if there is a risk damaging anyhting when leaving the dongle ground disconnected but this is the only way it worked for me. I also did not try the initial design with a disconnected gnd so don't know if it would have worked that way.


And finally ccs_hello you seem to be offline for a long time already but thank you for your solution and sharing it here with us. This was very helpful and a fun little project for me to build.

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