Jump to content

  •  

CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. Donation is not required by any means, so please enjoy your stay.

Photo

Mystery of the melting binocular

  • Please log in to reply
135 replies to this topic

#26 schang

schang

    Surveyor 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 1,654
  • Joined: 24 Apr 2013
  • Loc: columbia, sc

Posted 21 June 2015 - 05:16 PM

Talcum can help, though it is only a temporary fix... The oils in your hands, whether coming from  your own body, or other sources, can be effective plasticizers, which overtime can work into subsurface of rubber and soften it. When that happens, it becomes sticky.  The more of them, the stickier that area becomes.



#27 MartinPond

MartinPond

    Fly Me to the Moon

  • *****
  • Posts: 5,632
  • Joined: 16 Sep 2014

Posted 21 June 2015 - 06:50 PM

The most common polymerizer used in China is Lead,but it's dangerous to rub lead powder

  and hold it in your hands.  I  was speculating ... maybe magnesium powder would help

  (a magnesium 'fire starter' for camping rubbed on #400 emery paper)

 

Might be messy,of course.



#28 schang

schang

    Surveyor 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 1,654
  • Joined: 24 Apr 2013
  • Loc: columbia, sc

Posted 21 June 2015 - 07:21 PM

The most common polymerizer used in China is Lead,but it's dangerous to rub lead powder

  and hold it in your hands.  I  was speculating ... maybe magnesium powder would help

  (a magnesium 'fire starter' for camping rubbed on #400 emery paper)

 

Might be messy,of course.

Yes, you are speculating...



#29 MartinPond

MartinPond

    Fly Me to the Moon

  • *****
  • Posts: 5,632
  • Joined: 16 Sep 2014

Posted 21 June 2015 - 10:13 PM

I should be able to move forward to experimentation soon, as it pertains to the magnesium.

 

As regards the lead:

http://www.cbsnews.c...-not-just-toys/

 

I asked  a chemist friend about the California warning labels...I thought it was just the

surface.  It's all the way through when lead is there.


Edited by MartinPond, 21 June 2015 - 10:51 PM.


#30 Sarkikos

Sarkikos

    ISS

  • *****
  • Posts: 31,374
  • Joined: 18 Dec 2007
  • Loc: Per sylvam ad astra

Posted 22 June 2015 - 06:06 AM

I have a pair of six-year-old 15x70 Celestrons that have started to "melt" around the areas that I grip.  I do use deet-based insect repellent.  I'm not sure this would have happened if I didn't use the deet.  Does anyone know for sure?

 

In any case, wiping the affected areas with Goop Off seems to have stopped the melting, or at least slowed it down.

 

I'm thinking about buying a pair of Canon IS binos.  Maybe I should clean my hands with a moist towelette after applying deet repellent.  No way I'm not going to spray myself with repellent before I go out in the warm months.

 

Mike



#31 schang

schang

    Surveyor 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 1,654
  • Joined: 24 Apr 2013
  • Loc: columbia, sc

Posted 22 June 2015 - 07:07 AM

I should be able to move forward to experimentation soon, as it pertains to the magnesium.

 

As regards the lead:

http://www.cbsnews.c...-not-just-toys/

 

I asked  a chemist friend about the California warning labels...I thought it was just the

surface.  It's all the way through when lead is there.

There are a lot of different types of plastics around the house, which contain various additives to achieve specific properties for desired performance.  The lead you linked in your quote is not in the metal form, but a chemical compound, likely a hydrocarbon/other elements compound with lead in the bond.  

 

Now, I do not know exactly what you are trying to achieve... Be careful with the magnesium ( and aluminum) fine powder/dust...please read the following link before you do anything 

 

http://nj.gov/health...nts/fs/1136.pdf



#32 Ravenous

Ravenous

    Surveyor 1

  • *****
  • Posts: 1,894
  • Joined: 14 Nov 2009
  • Loc: UK

Posted 22 June 2015 - 07:10 AM

Somewhere I saw kits of pre-cut soft leather, which someone was marketing for people who restore olde-style film cameras.  (Olympus Trip 35 and so on.)

 

It made me think maybe someone with this decayed grip problem could use an attractive replacement material... provided the grip shape is reasonably flat and doesn't have too many curves, a flat piece of material could be stuck on top with a bit of work.  I think there were instructions recommmending a common contact adhesive for the job.

 

Just a thought for those of you with expensive binoculars, which have succumbed to this problem...



#33 Sarkikos

Sarkikos

    ISS

  • *****
  • Posts: 31,374
  • Joined: 18 Dec 2007
  • Loc: Per sylvam ad astra

Posted 22 June 2015 - 10:26 AM

You could always cover the affected areas with Velcro.  Would you prefer the ribbed or furry side?

 

:grin:

Mike


Edited by Sarkikos, 22 June 2015 - 10:27 AM.

  • Ravenous likes this

#34 Binojunky

Binojunky

    Fly Me to the Moon

  • *****
  • Posts: 5,801
  • Joined: 25 Dec 2010

Posted 23 June 2015 - 10:37 AM

I have a pair of six-year-old 15x70 Celestrons that have started to "melt" around the areas that I grip.  I do use deet-based insect repellent.  I'm not sure this would have happened if I didn't use the deet.  Does anyone know for sure?

 

In any case, wiping the affected areas with Goop Off seems to have stopped the melting, or at least slowed it down.

 

I'm thinking about buying a pair of Canon IS binos.  Maybe I should clean my hands with a moist towelette after applying deet repellent.  No way I'm not going to spray myself with repellent before I go out in the warm months.

 

Mike

Yes wipe your hands, I once saw a owner of a brand new pair of Fujis try to put them down only to find them melted to his hands, the palm prints were permanent, other options are light cotton gloves like they use when handling artifacts or a clip on bug repellant like the one by Woods Off, TD.



#35 Sarkikos

Sarkikos

    ISS

  • *****
  • Posts: 31,374
  • Joined: 18 Dec 2007
  • Loc: Per sylvam ad astra

Posted 23 June 2015 - 10:46 AM

I have used the clip-on repellents, and also the kind you can set on your observing table.  But I always like to spray some repellent directly on myself as extra insurance.  I guess I need to buy a jumbo box of moist towelettes.

 

Mike


Edited by Sarkikos, 23 June 2015 - 10:46 AM.


#36 FLYFRICK

FLYFRICK

    Lift Off

  • -----
  • Posts: 4
  • Joined: 17 Sep 2016

Posted 18 September 2016 - 09:18 AM

After calling Cannon re my 10x30 IS binoculars starting to melt while stored in the case in air conditioned room, they told me to send them back for repair. I was sure they knew about this problem and would fix it. Next thing I get from them is a repair estimate for $362.40!!! That's about what they cost new when I bought them ten or so years ago. I asked for a trade in allowance - no reply. they have only been used occasionally at sporting events. No

 

Then I googled 10x30IS cannon melting and saw all kinds of articles...wish I would have done that before the agony of a visit to the post office to ship my precious cargo. I will call them tomorrow to tell them how not pleased I am with their expensive products and their total lack of customer service.

 

Caveat Emptor... :mad:

 

From this forum I have learned to try goof off, wd40, coconut oil and baking soda, Windex, Alcohol,etc. Can anyone give me a definitive piece of advice on the best approach to remove the soft sticky goo that will also last?

 

THANKS  Bill


  • done and koeb like this

#37 Bonco

Bonco

    Skylab

  • *****
  • Posts: 4,008
  • Joined: 17 Apr 2006
  • Loc: Florida

Posted 18 September 2016 - 03:30 PM

I don't think melting surfaces are unique to Canon products. I have a Celestron bino and a an Oberwerk where the painted and/or plastic parts turned terribly sticky. I have a BSA rifle red dot scope that did the same thing. Heavy rubbing with a cloth and WD 40 helps clear it up but don't think it cures the problem. None of my instruments have been exposed to the discussed contaminents. It seems to me there is a issue with the chemistry of products mostly from China. Probably other manufacturers too. If someone has a better way than WD40, let me know because it takes a lot of scrubbing.

Bill



#38 hallelujah

hallelujah

    Cosmos

  • *****
  • Posts: 7,928
  • Joined: 14 Jul 2006
  • Loc: North Star over Colorado

Posted 18 September 2016 - 03:47 PM

It seems to me there is a issue with the chemistry of products mostly from China.

 

Bill



#39 Mike G.

Mike G.

    Vanguard

  • *****
  • Posts: 2,016
  • Joined: 17 Jun 2013
  • Loc: Oberlin, Ohio

Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:07 AM

There are people who can remove the degraded coverings and replace them, making your ugly binos look like new again

http://www.suddarthoptical.com/

 

Much cheaper than the Canon price

my old 8x56 Celestron Ultimas had this treatment and I'm quite happy with the results. 



#40 Pjames

Pjames

    Lift Off

  • -----
  • Posts: 1
  • Joined: 14 Oct 2016

Posted 14 October 2016 - 02:38 PM

I'm coming in late to the discussion, but my Canon Image Stabilizer 10x30 IS case has indeed become very sticky and unusable, and I'm out of ideas on how to remove the stickiness. I've tried isopropyl alcohol, goo gone, nail polish remover, and more with zero success. The binocs were seldom used and kept in a room temperature drawer in our living room. Any advice? 



#41 MartinPond

MartinPond

    Fly Me to the Moon

  • *****
  • Posts: 5,632
  • Joined: 16 Sep 2014

Posted 14 October 2016 - 04:47 PM

I'm coming in late to the discussion, but my Canon Image Stabilizer 10x30 IS case has indeed become very sticky and unusable, and I'm out of ideas on how to remove the stickiness. I've tried isopropyl alcohol, goo gone, nail polish remover, and more with zero success. The binocs were seldom used and kept in a room temperature drawer in our living room. Any advice? 

 

The most common type (or the only type I actually have seen)   stickiness is this thin layer of semi-gummy

stuff put over hard plastic to make it feel like rubber. The best stuff I have used on it so far is

coconut oil (very common, in jars at the grocery store) mixed with baking soda to make a paste,

left on in a thin film for 2-5 minutes, and then scrape with fingernails or a plastic knife .   It's been magic.

It really undercuts the stuff's hold on the plastic beneath.

A mild pot-scrubber might do it well too, but you'd need more paste and you might force it through crevices.


Edited by MartinPond, 14 October 2016 - 04:49 PM.


#42 FLYFRICK

FLYFRICK

    Lift Off

  • -----
  • Posts: 4
  • Joined: 17 Sep 2016

Posted 14 October 2016 - 05:00 PM

GOT THE BINOCS BACK FROM CANNON AFTER NOT WANTING TO SPEND THEIR ORIGINAL COST ON REPAIRS. THEN I REMEMBERED A BUTTON IN A MERCEDES I OWNED THAT DEVELOPED THE SAME PROBLEM; STICKY AND GOOEY TO THE TOUCH. I PAINTED THAT BUTTON WITH CLEAR NAIL POLISH, WASN'T REAL PRETTY BUT IT SURE WASN'T STICKY ANYMORE.

 

DID THE SAME TO MY BINOCS. QUICK CHEAP FIX...NOT PRETTY BUT QUITE FUNCTIONAL.



#43 MartinPond

MartinPond

    Fly Me to the Moon

  • *****
  • Posts: 5,632
  • Joined: 16 Sep 2014

Posted 14 October 2016 - 05:09 PM

That's a new trick.

Good to add to the whole thread!



#44 Grimnir

Grimnir

    Apollo

  • *****
  • Posts: 1,121
  • Joined: 28 Apr 2010
  • Loc: London, England.

Posted 16 October 2016 - 03:40 AM

My Canon 10x30 IS suffers from this problem. I lent them to a neighbour in the summer and they came back in melt mode possibly because he had sun cream on his hands when he used them - unfortunately I forgot to tell him not to use lotion when using binos. I think the chemical reaction is still progressing - albeit very slowly - but I don't know how to arrest it. 

 

Optically, of course, they're unaffected but it's still very annoying.

 

Graham



#45 MartinPond

MartinPond

    Fly Me to the Moon

  • *****
  • Posts: 5,632
  • Joined: 16 Sep 2014

Posted 20 October 2016 - 09:31 PM

You just remove the scummy bumper-sticker-like layer.  It's fairly thin.

Usually the reaction is already through the surface cladding and hard plastic awaits beneath.



#46 Binojunky

Binojunky

    Fly Me to the Moon

  • *****
  • Posts: 5,801
  • Joined: 25 Dec 2010

Posted 21 October 2016 - 11:08 AM

I have a pair of six-year-old 15x70 Celestrons that have started to "melt" around the areas that I grip.  I do use deet-based insect repellent.  I'm not sure this would have happened if I didn't use the deet.  Does anyone know for sure?

 

In any case, wiping the affected areas with Goop Off seems to have stopped the melting, or at least slowed it down.

 

I'm thinking about buying a pair of Canon IS binos.  Maybe I should clean my hands with a moist towelette after applying deet repellent.  No way I'm not going to spray myself with repellent before I go out in the warm months.

 

Mike

Deet did the damage, if you didn,t use it then they would have been fine IMHO, TD.



#47 R1200C

R1200C

    Ranger 4

  • -----
  • Posts: 373
  • Joined: 08 Sep 2003
  • Loc: Eastern Ohio

Posted 27 December 2016 - 09:01 PM

Just pulled my Canon binos, (12x36 IS) out of the case and their totally melted, kept inside, have never taken them outdoors, have never in my life purchased bug spray or sun screen.  Just poor quality.


  • Bonco likes this

#48 Mauikj

Mauikj

    Vostok 1

  • -----
  • Posts: 164
  • Joined: 08 Jun 2008
  • Loc: Maui, Hawaii, USA

Posted 29 December 2016 - 05:47 PM

I have the Cannon 10x42 IS binos.  After about 1.5 years they started getting sticky.  I don't use bug spray or lotions of any kind.   They were only used a few times so it is very disappointing that these binos which cost over $1,000 deteriorated so quickly.  Talcum powder (after cleaning with alcohol) helped, but they still look terrible.  Although great to use I would not recommend them due to this issue and the pretty crummy lens caps and flimsy battery compartment cover.  Such a shame as the optics and stabilization are so good.



#49 R1200C

R1200C

    Ranger 4

  • -----
  • Posts: 373
  • Joined: 08 Sep 2003
  • Loc: Eastern Ohio

Posted 19 January 2017 - 08:21 PM

Quoting myself but good news.  Sent the melted Bino's back to Canon, they gave me an estimate of $370 to fix.  After an hour on the phone, (literally) they agreed to do it at no charge.

 

 

Just pulled my Canon binos, (12x36 IS) out of the case and their totally melted, kept inside, have never taken them outdoors, have never in my life purchased bug spray or sun screen.  Just poor quality.



#50 psjunkmail

psjunkmail

    Lift Off

  • -----
  • Posts: 3
  • Joined: 16 May 2017

Posted 16 May 2017 - 04:02 PM

The melting "rubber" is due to the fact it wasn't cured properly....not enough of something improtant.

 

I worked in the business machine industry as a service rep and we had feed rollers made out of polyurethane.   It wasn't all, but some would revert back to their original liquid state....just like the coating on these Canon binocs.   You could tell they were headed "south", as the roller would start to soften, then get sticky.  In some cases, it would just revert to a puddle of goo.

 

So, it isn't the bug repellent stuff making it go soft.....




CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. Donation is not required by any means, so please enjoy your stay.


Recent Topics






Cloudy Nights LLC
Cloudy Nights Sponsor: Astronomics