13032 replies to this topic

[DJ N]

Hi everyone

 

Decided to do some upgrades to my TSA-120. I previously had the More Blue tube rings with a vixen style dovetail, but decided I really prefer to use a D-series type. With that in mind, decided I might as well go all the way and purchased a set of K-Astec rings. I worked out that by changing over the K-Astec and the wider plate, there would be nil weight increase to the setup. This has also provided an opportunity to mount the finder scope almost on the central balance point, which enables me to use the scope with or without the finder and not have balance issues. In addition, I find this cental position to be much more ergonomic.

 

Of course, the other new inclusion is my recently arrived Supermount W-Master. To put it simply, I am impressed! So easy to use - for a while now, I have dispensed with using object locators/encoders and really wanting to get back to basics. I spend most of my time observing the moon, and then the odd 'peek' at planets or the brighter deep sky objects. In addition, as I am fairly time-poor, I prefer to be able to set up at a moments notice, and in most cases, only for a short session. This set-up really ticks all the boxes for my viewing habits and it is such a pleasure to use. 

 

Cheers

 

Daniel

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Edited by DJ N, 21 April 2025 - 08:46 PM.

[brischy]

Fellow Tak owners, i have a question. I recently purchased a Takahashi FC-76 MC Classic and I want to use binoviewers with them but they seem to be too much weight for the compression ring that came with it. I am going with an 1.25" system, do you guys have any recommendations on connectors that would be able to handle the increased weight?

[Rasfahan]

A Baader ClickLock holds my Binoviewers well, even when combined with a Quark Daystar. Check if they are available with the correct threads.

[Arhymage]

Hello to all Tak owners. I would like to supplement my mewlon-210 with a small FC-100 fluorite refractor. I really wanted the FC100DZ, because I thought if I was going to buy a 100mm, it would have to be the best 100mm I could buy for uncompromising quality, but the seller informed me that they only have the FC100DF. I am only a visual observer, I plan to look mainly at the planets and the Moon at magnifications of 200-250x (maybe sometimes 300x), when I am too lazy to wait for Mewlon to cool down. I've heard that the DZ version is sharper at higher magnifications compared to the DF version. Can someone tell me if they've been compared and how big the difference is?? Does it make sense to wait for DZ, or can I take DF without worrying about losing productivity on planetary/lunar parts at high magnifications?

Edited by Arhymage, 22 April 2025 - 01:03 AM.

[balcon3]

I have the FC100DF and I can tell you that it fantastic at 214x on Jupiter in a binoviewer. I haven't tried higher but I don't feel that I was at the limit. I just don't have eyepiece pairs of shorter focal lengths and I typically use a binoviewerr for planets. True, the DZ is supposed to be slightly better corrected, but I have never viewed through a DZ so I don't know if that is noticeable in actual use. I can tell you that I don't find myself second-guessing buying the DF. I also have a Mewlon (180c). Ever since I got the DF, the Mewlon has seen less use because the FC100DF is so much more versatile and puts up such a good image on so many types of targets, although of course the Mewlon can go deeper. One plus for the DF is that it can go slightly wider than the DZ.

[bobhen]

Hello to all Tak owners. I would like to supplement my mewlon-210 with a small FC-100 fluorite refractor. I really wanted the FC100DZ, because I thought if I was going to buy a 100mm, it would have to be the best 100mm I could buy for uncompromising quality, but the seller informed me that they only have the FC100DF. I am only a visual observer, I plan to look mainly at the planets and the Moon at magnifications of 200-250x (maybe sometimes 300x), when I am too lazy to wait for Mewlon to cool down. I've heard that the DZ version is sharper at higher magnifications compared to the DF version. Can someone tell me if they've been compared and how big the difference is?? Does it make sense to wait for DZ, or can I take DF without worrying about losing productivity on planetary/lunar parts at high magnifications?

You will absolutely not be disappointed with a FS-100DF. I've had mine for a couple of years and it is the best grab-and-go or portable telescopes that I have owned. The 100DF acclimates very quickly, has excellent color correction, is extremely lightweight at 6.3 pounds, will ride on just about any mount (alt/az or GE) and of course has killer sharp Takahashi/Canon Fluorite optics.

 

I've had mine up to 330x on the moon with the view staying razor sharp. The scope could have taken even more power. The 100DF also makes a great solar scope. I even use mine (reduced down to F5.2) with my image intensifier for superb, night vision, deep sky views. There's not much the FS-100DF can't do.

 

The FS-100DF would make a perfect companion to your Mewlon; mounted side-by-side or separately.

 

I've owned LZOS, Astro-Physics, Celestron/Vixen Fluorite, Tele Vue and Takahashi refractors and currently also have a TSA 120. I like the way you think when considering a 4" refractor, you do want the best. With the 100DF you won't ever have to question your decision.

 

Just go get one!

 

Bob

[Scott99]

 Does it make sense to wait for DZ, or can I take DF without worrying about losing productivity on planetary/lunar parts at high magnifications?

You're not going to lose productivity, I think you'll see the same stuff in both scopes.  If you do obsess over the finest possible lens and you're going to keep the scope long-term it might make sense to wait for the DZ....also f/8 vs. f/7.4 if you have a preference for longer or shorter you could choose accordingly...
 

[nic35]

A Baader ClickLock holds my Binoviewers well, even when combined with a Quark Daystar. Check if they are available with the correct threads.

My FC-76MC takes the m56x0.75  Baader  threaded adapter.  Note that it is a 2" adapter, so you may need a 2" to 1.25 insert as well.  Commonly available.