Hi Dan,
D=76.2mm f=1200mm - how's that?
I had so many inquiries on this telescope that I posted a separate web page with more details and photos, here's the address: http://www.gogoofus....Pix/scope2.html I gave it to everyone who contacted me. In retrospect I realize I should have revised the listing and added that tidbit, problem is it may have cost you more!
One fellow volunteered the following information yesterday without even bidding, probably just likes to make people squirm!
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Sam -
Just some FYI. Your Tasco 10TE is a rare item, something telescope collectors really dig. Reason: The 10TE was Tasco's only 76.2 mm (=3") refractor, and unlike just about everything else they made, was a fine optical telescope. Scopes like yours show up about 10x / year on Ebay, meaning that about 1 in 5-10,000 scopes put up for sale are of the type you are selling. The scope was made for Tasco by TOWA and was sold to other USA distributors such as Jason and Mayflower, though still extremely rare. The list price for your scope climbed to around $1000 approximately 1979, though the typical over-the-counter price from a Tasco dealer would have been about $600.00. At any rate, expect a bidding war near the end of your auctions. -David
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That follows suit with what you are saying too.
It's funny, I always wanted a powerful telescope as a kid, and followed the space program from John Glenn to the moon landings. Then I discovered girls and wanted an even more powerful telescope! I did make that childhood promise to myself of having one in time for Halleys comet in '86, but things change in 20 years.
This one fell upon me as a hand-me-down from my fathers wife. They went to visit her family in North Dakota in '94 and came back with the "gift". I'm sure you don't see it as a "white elephant", but it's one of those wonderful things that amazed everyone who didn't know what to do with it, so they passed it on to another family (I wish this occurred in '86!) It was very well taken care of, probably not used much at all.
At any rate, I should have it on the way to you by Saturday.
Thanks again,
Sam
More on the Tasco 10TE
Started by
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, Feb 25 2004 09:03 AM
9 replies to this topic
#2
rodrake
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Posted 25 February 2004 - 09:19 AM
Dan,
That's the second reference I've seen that leads me to believe my Sears may have also been made by TOWA. I recently saw a finder scope that looked identical to mine that was listed as made by TOWA. Sure wish I could find someone that new more about the history of these scopes.
Rich
That's the second reference I've seen that leads me to believe my Sears may have also been made by TOWA. I recently saw a finder scope that looked identical to mine that was listed as made by TOWA. Sure wish I could find someone that new more about the history of these scopes.
Rich
#3
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#4
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Posted 25 February 2004 - 12:56 PM
Here is another photo. This could be similar or identical to what I am getting.
http://www.oregonpho.../Tasco76mm.html
http://www.oregonpho.../Tasco76mm.html
#5
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Posted 29 February 2004 - 05:26 AM
Dan,
The info from Sam's scope looks exactly like the telescope I own! (at least what my telescope used to look like before I started modifications)
his is Serial # 170005, mine is serial # 170546...
see the following link to how mine looks now:
http://www.cloudynig...sb=5&o=&fpart=1
I have been quite impressed with the performance of this refractor on planets, moon, sun (Baader solar filter material) and double stars, using University Optics Orthos.
I made the following modifications to my scope to improve performance:
* Replaced the mount/tripod with a Orion Sky View Deluxe eq head & custom made redwood legs & spreader
* Replaced the shims inside the focuser draw tube with custom machined aluminum shims (my brother is a machinest)
* Added 4 baffles to the tube (now 5 baffles total) - really improved contrast!
* replaced the finderscope with a Celestron 6x30 (the original was missing when I bought the scope in the late '80s)
* added a .965 -> 1 1/4" adapter in order to use a 1 1/4" mirror diagonal & 1 1/4" eyepieces
* cut about 3" off the inner focuser tube to get full illumination while using the diagonal
* painted all inner surfaces with Krylon ultra-flat black
* (strictly a cosmetic modification) removed the damaged chrome from the inner & outer focuser tubes, and found that the draw tubes were made of solid brass - finished the non contact areas of the tubes with clear acrylic
* (another cosmetic modification) stripped & repainted the outside of the optical tube semi-gloss black
Greg
The info from Sam's scope looks exactly like the telescope I own! (at least what my telescope used to look like before I started modifications)
his is Serial # 170005, mine is serial # 170546...
see the following link to how mine looks now:
http://www.cloudynig...sb=5&o=&fpart=1
I have been quite impressed with the performance of this refractor on planets, moon, sun (Baader solar filter material) and double stars, using University Optics Orthos.
I made the following modifications to my scope to improve performance:
* Replaced the mount/tripod with a Orion Sky View Deluxe eq head & custom made redwood legs & spreader
* Replaced the shims inside the focuser draw tube with custom machined aluminum shims (my brother is a machinest)
* Added 4 baffles to the tube (now 5 baffles total) - really improved contrast!
* replaced the finderscope with a Celestron 6x30 (the original was missing when I bought the scope in the late '80s)
* added a .965 -> 1 1/4" adapter in order to use a 1 1/4" mirror diagonal & 1 1/4" eyepieces
* cut about 3" off the inner focuser tube to get full illumination while using the diagonal
* painted all inner surfaces with Krylon ultra-flat black
* (strictly a cosmetic modification) removed the damaged chrome from the inner & outer focuser tubes, and found that the draw tubes were made of solid brass - finished the non contact areas of the tubes with clear acrylic
* (another cosmetic modification) stripped & repainted the outside of the optical tube semi-gloss black
Greg
#6
Jim Svetlikov
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Posted 29 February 2004 - 11:20 AM
Greg
Wow - you cut off 3" from the focuser tube. I was told to do something similar with my 60mm Tasco in order to get full illumination and focus, but only to take off 1".
Could you provide a brief description how you did it? Did you have to redrill the mounting holes for the finder and brace? How did you know to take off 3" instead of 1 or 2"?
Wow - you cut off 3" from the focuser tube. I was told to do something similar with my 60mm Tasco in order to get full illumination and focus, but only to take off 1".
Could you provide a brief description how you did it? Did you have to redrill the mounting holes for the finder and brace? How did you know to take off 3" instead of 1 or 2"?
#7
Guest_**DONOTDELETE**_*
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Posted 29 February 2004 - 02:37 PM
Jim,
I cut the inner end off of the smaller inside drawtube, and did not touch the outside tube that is connected to the focuser. (I labeled tbe inside tube with Photoshop on the attached picture) There was a little threaded "stop" on the inner end of the inside tube, which I removed before cutting the tube.
Making the decision to cut the tube was not easy. Once the cut is made, it is, of course, irreversible. Since the inner tube was designed to accommodate use without a diagonal, it is definately too long when using the diagonal, and cuts off some of the incoming light cone.
To decide where to make the cut, I first used all of my eyepieces, and found the farthest extended position that I would ever use the inner tube, and marked the position. I then removed the entire focuser assembly from the main optical tube, and looked to see how much "extra" inside tube remained. I then cut the inside tube with a hacksaw, but I eft an extra 1 1/2" on the end of the tube just to be safe. The result was about a 3" piece of cut tube removed.
NOTE: When replacing the focuser assembly, I needed to collimate it, which I did by a) centering the full moon the eyepiece, b) removing the diagonal, and c) centering the bright unfocused moonlight by carefully unscrewing the screws that attach the focuser assembly to the OTA and tightening the screws when the light was well centered. This might not be possible without a motor drive to keep the moon shining into the tube.
I did all of the modifications one at a time (cut inner tube, added baffles & blackened inside tube parts, collimated the focuser) but at each step I noticed improvemets in resolution & contrast.
Greg
P.S. I still owe you pics/description of my tripod leg construction, but I have been so busy with work, kids, etc.
I cut the inner end off of the smaller inside drawtube, and did not touch the outside tube that is connected to the focuser. (I labeled tbe inside tube with Photoshop on the attached picture) There was a little threaded "stop" on the inner end of the inside tube, which I removed before cutting the tube.
Making the decision to cut the tube was not easy. Once the cut is made, it is, of course, irreversible. Since the inner tube was designed to accommodate use without a diagonal, it is definately too long when using the diagonal, and cuts off some of the incoming light cone.
To decide where to make the cut, I first used all of my eyepieces, and found the farthest extended position that I would ever use the inner tube, and marked the position. I then removed the entire focuser assembly from the main optical tube, and looked to see how much "extra" inside tube remained. I then cut the inside tube with a hacksaw, but I eft an extra 1 1/2" on the end of the tube just to be safe. The result was about a 3" piece of cut tube removed.
NOTE: When replacing the focuser assembly, I needed to collimate it, which I did by a) centering the full moon the eyepiece, b) removing the diagonal, and c) centering the bright unfocused moonlight by carefully unscrewing the screws that attach the focuser assembly to the OTA and tightening the screws when the light was well centered. This might not be possible without a motor drive to keep the moon shining into the tube.
I did all of the modifications one at a time (cut inner tube, added baffles & blackened inside tube parts, collimated the focuser) but at each step I noticed improvemets in resolution & contrast.
Greg
P.S. I still owe you pics/description of my tripod leg construction, but I have been so busy with work, kids, etc.
Attached Thumbnails
#8
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Posted 29 February 2004 - 07:22 PM
Greg,
Could you direct me to Orion's catalog/item # for the "Sky View Deluxe eq head"?
Thanks,
Dan
Could you direct me to Orion's catalog/item # for the "Sky View Deluxe eq head"?
Thanks,
Dan
#9
Guest_**DONOTDELETE**_*
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Posted 01 March 2004 - 04:05 AM
Dan,
I don't think they sell it anymore...it has been replaced with the AstroView mount (Orion # 09822), but for a few more bucks, you could get a SkyView Pro mount (Orion # 09829) which has a much better tripod.
Greg
I don't think they sell it anymore...it has been replaced with the AstroView mount (Orion # 09822), but for a few more bucks, you could get a SkyView Pro mount (Orion # 09829) which has a much better tripod.
Greg
#10
Jim Svetlikov
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Posted 01 March 2004 - 11:41 AM
Greg
Thanks for the description - much appreciated.
I don't have an inner tube to cut unfortunetly so I would have to cut the outer tube about 1" or so and I'm a little hesitant to do so.
Thanks for the description - much appreciated.
I don't have an inner tube to cut unfortunetly so I would have to cut the outer tube about 1" or so and I'm a little hesitant to do so.
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