120 replies to this topic

[Orion64]

Thanks for the update. Looking forward to seeing some more with this scope.

[swsantos]

Me, see pictures and report around here somewhere.

[bandazar]

thanks for the honest review.  Performed pretty much like I expected it would.   H-a scopes still behave under the laws of physics when it comes to resolution.  Although quality optics and having a good etalon are also factors, which sometimes explains variations.

[saguaro]

I was lucky enough to evaluate the LS50mm at ASAE in Tucson last weekend since Lunt had one set up outside for solar viewing. I looked at the sun both with and without the LS50c double stack module attached. I was very impressed with the quality and value. I was then able to purchase one with the 600 blocking filter from Woodland Hills Camera at the show. Here is my LS50mm on a small Takahashi mount. It is my first solar scope and I am thrilled with it.
 
I have the optional LS50c double stack unit on order so haven't had a chance to use it yet.

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[saguaro]

Here is my first image taken today with a Skyris 132m camera attached to the 600mm blocking diagonal using a Starizona T-to-C adapter. Note that you must unscrew the eyepiece barrel from the diagonal and then screw on the adapter and then attach the camera. Please excuse the dust mote in the image! 

 

I would like to learn how to capture the prominences on the limb - any advice?

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[saguaro]

Another photo taken earlier today with the LS50mm single stack. 

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[WesC]

I actually spent about half an hour evaluating the Lunt LS50 at SIA that day. It was great to be able to compare it with all the other solar scopes there. I compared single and double stacked. It's a very fine instrument. Sharp, nice helical focuser, good image scale, contrast and detail are on par, and nearly identical to the 60mm, and nearly the 80mm... For less money!

 

This Is definitely going to be my first Ha scope. 

Edited by WesC, 11 November 2014 - 01:40 AM.

[saguaro]

Here is my latest effort from today. Nice prominences visible today!

 

Just to recap, I'm using a Lunt 50mm H-Alpha scope, single-stack, with a Skyris 132 M camera. I think I am slowly mastering the histogram :-). This is a composite image from a single video taken with IC Capture, then stacked and processed in Registax 6. I first processed the video to get the disk image, and then processed again to get the prominences image, then composited the two to get the final image. I still need to figure out how to bring out the prominence detail without somewhat of a "halo" effect on the limb. Comments welcome! Thanks.

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[saguaro]

Here are some images from 11-15-14. I saw a flare emerge from the large sunspot group and managed to create an animated gif of the event. I aligned the images using imgalt and then processed them in GIMP.

 

Here is a link to the SDO animation of the same flare that I observed and photographed:

http://sdowww.lmsal....-171_S14E63.mov

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Edited by saguaro, 16 November 2014 - 01:56 PM.

[saguaro]

Also taken today -

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[GUS.K]

Nice image and a great animation.

[LarryAlvarez]

Really impressive from a 50. Looks like its worth the money!  

Edited by LarryAlvarez, 16 November 2014 - 12:07 PM.

[saguaro]

Thanks Gus and Larry!

 

I just realized that in the full disk image, East should be on the left (not West). ;-)

 

This is my first solar telescope and really my first experience with serious imaging (not counting some Logitech Quickcam images I took of Jupiter at prime focus through my C-14). For less than $2500 (not counting the mount, which I already had), I have a complete solar telescope (with double-stack unit on order) and a decent CMOS camera (Skyris 132m). I definitely think I'm getting my money's worth. Also, having the small scope allows me to utilize my Takahashi mount, which has a capacity of about 6.5 lbs. The scope with double-stack weighs about 6.1 pounds, which still leaves some room for a camera or eyepiece without overloading the mount. This was a major consideration for me that weighed in favor of a small high-quality scope like the Lunt 50mm.

 

If I have to quibble, the only thing I'm not happy with is the helical focuser. The draw tube sometimes binds up (doesn't move) when I turn its focus ring, and it does have a slight jiggle in it which I can't fix and which I find annoying. I'm going to ask Lunt if their Crayford focuser is compatible and if so I will replace the helical with it.

 

Update: Lunt has told me that they do not offer an upgrade to the helical focuser, and that all of them will have some play that is considered "normal".

 

-Robin

Edited by saguaro, 17 November 2014 - 12:03 PM.

[saguaro]

My scope has been mounted on a camera tripod, but I was concerned about stability. Lucky for me I have a husband who is both handy and supportive of my hobby! I have an old circa-1985 Celestron field tripod that I use with my old Celestron 8-inch SCT. He welded a custom adapter plate from surplus steel parts he had laying around. Now the scope is still very transportable but is on a much more stable base! Now all I need to do is paint it black for a finished appearance.

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[Project Galileo]

Neat images!  Neat hack on the mount too.  I love zombie gear.

[saguaro]

Thanks! Yes, I love finding new uses for old gear. I can still use the field tripod with my classic C-8 just by unscrewing the large black knobs on the adapter plate, removing it, and using the same knobs to attach my C-8's equatorial wedge.

[mikee]

Have any of you who have owned the Lunt 50 also looked through a PST?    I owned one of the early model PST's and while the views were astounding to me at first I ended up selling it pretty quickly as the entire package required too much fiddling with focusing, eye placement, mounting.    I also seem to recall having a soda straw view that was tied to the eye placement problems but it's been a long time so I can't really remember what bugged me so much

 

Any comparison would be great as I've been wanting to get back into Ha viewing.   I enjoy looking at the sun with my baader film but it's not as day to day interesting to me. 

 

THanks

 

[icecreamcat]

Have any of you who have owned the Lunt 50 also looked through a PST?    I owned one of the early model PST's and while the views were astounding to me at first I ended up selling it pretty quickly as the entire package required too much fiddling with focusing, eye placement, mounting.    I also seem to recall having a soda straw view that was tied to the eye placement problems but it's been a long time so I can't really remember what bugged me so much

 

Any comparison would be great as I've been wanting to get back into Ha viewing.   I enjoy looking at the sun with my baader film but it's not as day to day interesting to me. 

 

THanks

 

I have owned 6 psts because all of them fail to produce even images.    The ls50 produces an even image right out of the box.    It is entirely worth every penny, and the image at the eyepiece looks absolutley stunning.  The photos you see posted on this thread do not provide the proper justice about this telescope.     I bought a second one 7 days after the first purchase.  The ls50PT is beyond great.

 

This is not a high magnification scope, so please do not expect to get any extreme focal lengths out of it.     It is intended to provide a stunning full disk! (and it does) 

[mikee]

Great news.   I just re-read the specs and noticed it's an f/7.    I was hoping I could put my 12mm Delos in it and get some nice views.   Maybe take some pictures with my Canon T3i some day as well.

 

BTW did you get the 400 or 600 banding filter?    Seems like the 400 is in stock in places but not sure what the actual view differences are.

 

Thanks again!

[saguaro]

I agree that the photos I've posted do not do justice to the visual views   Also, my observations and photos have all been with the single pressure tuner, since I am awaiting delivery of the optional double stack module, which is on order. The views with the double stack should be even more impressive for surface features. The double stack module screws on to the front of the scope, so it can be easily added or removed as you wish.

 

Also agree that the scope is best for full disk views. I use the Lunt Zoom eyepiece with this scope, which goes from 7 to 21 mm. Any eyepiece in that range will give great views.

 

However I do find myself wanting to photograph what I see, even if my beginner attempts are just that. And I even got lucky and managed to photograph a flare in progress. I also observed the flare visually and could see streaming filament detail which was exciting.

 

The 600 blocking filter gives you a larger field around the disk, which is better for photography, while also allowing for visual use. I chose it over the 400 because I wanted to be able to do both visual and photography.

[LarryAlvarez]

I'm not sure if this has been asked yet but will a regular 50 or 60mm ds filter fit on the new Lunt 50 telescope or does it require that special 50mm front filter? 

[saguaro]

I'm guessing you will need the LS50c double stack module specifically designed for the LS50tha scope. However, to be sure I would ask Rikki at Lunt.

[bill1234]

Regular 50 and 60mm filter will not fit without an adapter

[saguaro]

Here is one of my latest images. I've finally figured out how to center the pressure tuning sweet spot over the center of the disk, and also get the entire disk in the field of view given the small chip size of my Skyris 132m camera. Shout out to John Earl for his helpful tips and guidance! Thanks John!

 

This image was taken on the winter solstice from Tucson, AZ with my single stack Lunt LS50/600 blocking filter.

 

 

Seeing was not great. 30 frames stacked (out of 1000 frames) in Autotstakkert, then Registax for wavelets, and Photoshop for adding color and compositing the disk with the proms.

 

I finally realized that simply moving the live image around in the field of view by moving in RA and Dec was not allowing me to center the disk in the tuning sweet spot, due to the small chip size of my camera and the fact that the tuning sweet spot is off center and closer to one corner of the field of view. The best tuning is achieved when the image is in the lower left quadrant of the field of view. This is not a defect; it is just the nature of the Lunt scopes, as explained to me by one of their engineers. Instead, I rotated the camera and blocking filter until the chip was oriented in such a way to allow me to get the center of the disk in the tuning sweet spot and also get the entire disk within the camera's field of view. Proper N-S and E-W orientation is achieved later, when I flip and rotate the final image in Photoshop.

 

 

What I also learned is that it is helpful when imaging to use the small locking knob on the helical focuser to "lock" the focus. In the photo, the focus lock knob is the one just above the hash marks on the focuser. By doing so, the tuning sweet spot was much easier to center on top of the disk while also keeping the entire disk in the field of view. I had not bothered locking the focus knob before, because it seemed like an inconvenience to have to unlock it each time I wanted to adjust focus. For visual use, I don't use it. But it turns out with the camera attached, it helps to center the sweet spot on the disk.

[Rich (RLTYS)]

That's a BEAUTIFUL image. 

 

Rich (RLTYS)