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Pink Panther / Cave restoration

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#51 turk123

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 03:34 PM

Here are some view as the Sealmaster bearings are being removed from the cast part.  You have to clean up the shafts and remove any burs before attempting to pull out the shaft.  I've got it most of the way out and it still got stuck.  There is not much reason in taking the or the shaft all the way out.  The bearings are just fine and I can remove the paint and repaint without pulling it all apart.  

 

Also shown, you can cut off an allen wrench and shape it on a grinder to create a tool to remove the bearing .  I've already created one but as you can see I am using it a little differently.  The wrong end.   After fighting with it many times before and also here, I just used the next best and now my preferred method which is drilling a hole in the cast (soft, takes 2 seconds 1/4")  and using the allen wrench as it was meant to be used. The bearing cap and shaft turn so drill the hole on the bottom of the cast so it will not show.  Fill it later before you paint.  With seal master bearings, you will never ever take this apart again.  So much easier!

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#52 turk123

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 03:37 PM

Here is the before image of the DEC cast part and the counter weights.  I really want to get those off. So heavy!

 

Let's hope the Evapo-rust helps.  I'm thinking about a week in the soak.

 

 

 

 

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#53 DAVIDG

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 03:49 PM

Tom,

    If the soak in the solvent doesn't work you  might try the old timers trick of heating  the set screws again and dripping  in some candle wax. The wax being a liquid from the heat will work down in the threads and loosen things ups.  Another thing to try is to take a flat ended rod with the nearly the same diameter of the hole from the screw and give the screws a good rap with hammer using the rod to transfer the force. That might beak the rust, bounding them together.

 

                    - Dave



#54 Datapanic

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 03:50 PM

Another trick for getting stuck fasteners loosened up is to tighten them just a little and then try to back them out.  As you can see in this picture, under the collars and shafts are usually not as rusty as the exposed areas.  The trick is getting those set screws loosened up and then your home free!

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#55 turk123

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 04:48 PM

Another trick for getting stuck fasteners loosened up is to tighten them just a little and then try to back them out.  As you can see in this picture, under the collars and shafts are usually not as rusty as the exposed areas.  The trick is getting those set screws loosened up and then your home free!

 

Roger to both of you!



#56 JWW

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 05:42 PM

Just in case you didn't know, around 2010 or so I posted a message thread related to Electrolytic Rust Removal. It worked absolutely perfect for me (notice the perfect). I know at least two others posted a thread about their success as well. You probably already know about that anyway, just thought I throw my 2 cents in. I didn't consider it to be messy at all, nor difficult to do. I'm pretty anal about cleaning up the messes I might make. Here's the method I used;

 

http://www.instructa...oval-aka-Magic/

 

... and just one of the results on a lathe chuck I got for free. 

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Edited by JWW, 05 October 2014 - 05:46 PM.


#57 turk123

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 09:06 PM

Just in case you didn't know, around 2010 or so I posted a message thread related to Electrolytic Rust Removal. It worked absolutely perfect for me (notice the perfect). I know at least two others posted a thread about their success as well. You probably already know about that anyway, just thought I throw my 2 cents in. I didn't consider it to be messy at all, nor difficult to do. I'm pretty anal about cleaning up the messes I might make. Here's the method I used;

 

http://www.instructa...oval-aka-Magic/

 

... and just one of the results on a lathe chuck I got for free. 

 

That is amazing!   I think I might want to try this for a lot of items i need cleaned.  Evapo-rust costs $22 / gal.  This process costs practically nothing. And looks like it works even better!



#58 JWW

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 10:36 PM

http://www.cloudynig...a/#entry3331274



#59 dgreyson

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 06:36 AM

Electrolytic rust reversal is used on artifacts from the Titanic.

#60 turk123

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 07:22 AM

Here are the counter weights after a little less than 24 hours in the Evapo-rust. Before and after.     Not bad!  So let's see if it has loosened the set screws . . .  Yes, it looks like it is turning!

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#61 turk123

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 07:23 AM

Ahh . . . no it's not.

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#62 tim53

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 10:30 AM

Lol!

 

i know I shouldn't laugh, but that Allen wrench cracked me up!

 

-tim



#63 DAVIDG

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 11:05 AM

Tom,
Heat is your friend. Just torch those screws and they will come out. You might try putting the counter weight with the set screw faces down over your gas grill and roast them along with your lobster tails.

- Dave

#64 clamchip

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 11:07 AM

Try using a punch that fits into the hex hole, and tap with a hammer to break the  bind. You are creating a tiny little amount of clearance in the threads.

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Edited by actionhac, 06 October 2014 - 11:10 AM.


#65 turk123

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 11:16 AM

Tom,
Heat is your friend. Just torch those screws and they will come out. You might try putting the counter weight with the set screw faces down over your gas grill and roast them along with your lobster tails.

- Dave

 

I tried heating them up but maybe not enough.  I need to buy a few tanks of propane and move the process outside!



#66 turk123

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 11:17 AM

Try using a punch that fits into the hex hole, and tap with a hammer to break the  bind. You are creating a tiny little amount of clearance in the threads.

 

I can try that!



#67 turk123

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 07:21 PM

Well, I ran a torch on the counter weight for about 5 minutes.  It is very hot.  It still would not break free.  Bent another allen wrench under the pressure.  They are not slipping, just bending.  I took the whole assembly out of the evapo-rust as there is no rust left.  I filled the setscrew holes with liquid wrench and it sat all day.  Poured out the liquid wrench and heated it up.  

 

Any suggestions?  Maybe they will be permanent?    I'm guessing all I can do now is drill them out.  That creates a problem with tapping them.  I may not have a tap long enough.

 

What to do?



#68 turk123

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 07:22 PM

I did tap the set screws with a punch.  That did not work either.



#69 starman876

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 07:29 PM

I had to use a ten ton press to get my counterweight of the shaft.  However, my set screw did come out.    You might have to drill out the set screw.   I soaked the shaft in every thing I could and the only thing that would break it free was the press. 



#70 sgorton99

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 08:53 PM

Freezing? Just a thought...

Maybe rapid heating and cooling would break it loose.



#71 turk123

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 09:01 PM

Just got a "super coupon" for a 20 ton press at harbor freight.  Now I'm getting serious.    I don't know how many times I could have used this.  Now I will have one.  I'm guessing it will push out the shaft with or without set screws.  I'll drill them first to get most of the material out and the press the heck out of it!!!!!!!    :elephant:


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#72 clamchip

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 09:05 PM

You can try an impact driver like this one:

http://www.sears.com.../p-00947641000P

you can buy Allen wrench's with a 3/8" or 1/2" socket drive which will mate with the impact driver.

I'm surprised the punch didn't work, it's never failed me in the past.

 

Robert


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#73 Chuck Hards

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 09:11 PM

Reheat the weight, then drop some crushed dry ice down the set screw hole.  



#74 clamchip

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 09:11 PM

The problem with pressing out the shaft is the set screws will leave a horrible score in the shaft, remember they are dug in deep into the shaft.



#75 Geo31

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 09:16 PM

Well, I ran a torch on the counter weight for about 5 minutes.  It is very hot.  It still would not break free.  Bent another allen wrench under the pressure.  They are not slipping, just bending.  I took the whole assembly out of the evapo-rust as there is no rust left.  I filled the setscrew holes with liquid wrench and it sat all day.  Poured out the liquid wrench and heated it up.  

 

Any suggestions?  Maybe they will be permanent?    I'm guessing all I can do now is drill them out.  That creates a problem with tapping them.  I may not have a tap long enough.

 

What to do?

 

Well....

 

Liquid Wrench is really not that great a rust dissolving penetrant.

 

As I said before, PB Blaster is readily available.  It's much better than Liquid Wrench or WD40.  If you really want to get serious before physically forcing it off, I'd try Aerokroil.




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