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What did you do to your Scope/Mount Today?

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#5051 CharlieB

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 11:00 PM

Hopefully I'll find out today what they are & can get some longer ones to do similar to what you've done Charlie...meanwhile another strange thing occurred, putting the focuser back together exactly as it came apart it isn't as light in its' operation! frown.gif

 

I have found that sometimes, flipping the pinion shaft around helps.  Perhaps you flipped yours when you were restoring it? Just a thought.  I'm still working on the collimation screw problem.



#5052 ccwemyss

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 11:18 PM

My early Unitron 142 mount uses a Whitworth thread for the otherwise smooth counterweight bar. 

 

Tonight I adjusted the slow motion dec wand and RA cable for the Pentax. Both had the coupling screw too far in, so when putting them on, they stopped short, with the thumbscrews not reaching the flats on their shafts. They were slipping and scoring the round portion of the shaft near the end. Now they engage the flat and there is no slippage. 

 

This may have been an issue since original assembly. Because I used to sell them, I knew it wasn't right. My memory of our Pentax mounts was that they always gave a feeling of everything being firmly meshed. There was never any slop in their mechanics.

 

In some ways, I think of these Pentax systems as what Unitron would have become if they had remained in the business and updated their designs. They have a similar feeling of the complete package having all the subtle touches of quality and attention to detail. 

 

Chip W. 


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#5053 Kokatha man

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 03:02 AM

I did put primary mirror springs on the cell.  They can be had at a good hardware store.  I think I had to get longer screws than what were original, too.  I also started collimation with the springs mostly compressed.    This gives the most stability for the primary and it provides for a bit more outward focuser travel.  As for the secondary, I put a piece of milk jug plastic between the secondary adjustment screws and the body of the diagonal mirror support.  

Hi Charlie - I think you probably meant it limits the in-focus...with any springs on the cell the mirror is going to be slightly further back in the cell holder than without them, therefore the focus is going need to be racked further in to get focus (ie, racked out less)...this worries me a bit if the focus position is only with a small amount of racking out, especially if I want to try some imaging with the scope: I know we're only talking about 2 or 3mm but with some of the old refractor scopes I've had, the ability to focus using a camera is a close-run thing - they are not made with out-focus consideration in those I've encountered...but I guess I'll find out! wink.gif

 

I have found that sometimes, flipping the pinion shaft around helps.  Perhaps you flipped yours when you were restoring it? Just a thought.  I'm still working on the collimation screw problem.

I tried that also - I'm confident  I'll work it out however. I started a thread (well, made a thread just to air the situation) on those screws...you must've been lucky to find JIS 5 x 0.9 metric machine screws Charlie - either that or someone in the factory said "stuff using this idiotic combination!?!" & used something sensible like standard  5 x 0.8 metrics on yours...but I know my RA wasn't a one-off by the fact another 4.5" Japanese Newt circa 1970 I own also used them for the same application..! lol.gif

 

PrimaryCellInHolder.jpg



#5054 Kokatha man

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 07:22 PM

Did the first coat of the satin white late yesterday afternoon, hoping I can get a good finish with some cut & polish cream after the final coats of paint...if so the little RA should look quite schmick with the crinkle-blacked fittings! fingerscrossed.gif

 

Wet-sanded a couple of little dribbles & applied another coat first thing this morning - I'll give it a few hours then another coat & hopefully finish up with a 4th spray later this afternoon. 

 

Learnt a little lesson this morning: I had masking-taped plastic bags inside the open ends of the ota to prevent white paint getting onto the flat black I've already sprayed inside...& pulled them outside the tube, cut little holes in them & fed a long broom handle through everything so that I could suspend the ota between 2 supports for painting - bad idea, I'll tuck the bags back inside the ota for the next 2 coats! bangbang.gif

 

What happens with the bags outside the ota is that some paint spray ends up on the plastic bags...this dries & when I re-sprayed today a couple of largish flakes came off as I rotated the ota during spraying - of course they landed & stuck on the freshly-applied coat! lol.gif frown.gif

 

Ya live & learn! smile.gif

 

RoyalAstro-ota2ndcoat.jpg


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#5055 CharlieB

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 10:03 PM

I found the screws I used in my rather large stash of old Japanese spare parts.  By the way, these are the same size and pitch of the faceplate screws of the RAO 76mm RA cover.


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#5056 ccwemyss

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 11:37 PM

Learnt a little lesson this morning: I had masking-taped plastic bags inside the open ends of the ota to prevent white paint getting onto the flat black I've already sprayed inside...& pulled them outside the tube, cut little holes in them & fed a long broom handle through everything so that I could suspend the ota between 2 supports for painting - bad idea, I'll tuck the bags back inside the ota for the next 2 coats! bangbang.gif

 

What happens with the bags outside the ota is that some paint spray ends up on the plastic bags...this dries & when I re-sprayed today a couple of largish flakes came off as I rotated the ota during spraying - of course they landed & stuck on the freshly-applied coat! lol.gif frown.gif

 

What I do is to get some of the lightweight 2" thick white styrofoam insulation from a hardware store, and use the tube itself to drill out a pair of plugs that exactly fit. Then I drill holes through the centers of the plugs that let me slide a dowel through, with a snug fit. I put one plug on the dowel, run the dowel through the tube until it sticks out the other end and the plug is flush with the near end, then I slide the other plug over the far end and into the tube. Then I can put the ends of the dowel on a pair of sawhorses, and rotate the tube while I spray. I usually keep rotating afterward until the paint starts to set up, to avoid any runs. 

 

To remove the plugs, I pull the dowel out until it clears the inside of the far plug, angle it a bit, and push the plug out. Then I do the same on the near end. 

 

Chip W.



#5057 Kokatha man

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Posted 25 January 2020 - 12:38 AM

...sounds like a good idea Chip! waytogo.gif  Since pushing the bags back into the ends I haven't had any issues - just finished the 3rd coat today (4th overall). I went the masking tape route 'cos I wanted to make sure no white over-spray got inside the ota as the end-castings on this little RA go over the outside edges of the ota, no hiding the insides, so putting a layer of wide masking tape around the inside first then taped the bags in...nothing that a bit of touch-up wouldn't fix though if it has seeped in.

 

The styrofoam method would make it a bit easier to rotate but I'm almost done now - another sand & another coat later today & (hopefully!) any remaining dimples or runs of paint can then be wet & dry sanded a final time & then the cut & polish to hopefully get a reasonable finish...I bought extra paint to allow for a couple more coats. 

 

It probably won't look absolutely perfect but as an artist I'm my own worst enemy there...hopefully after c&p & re-fitting the wrinkle-black components it will look quite ok however..! :fingerscrossed: ;)



#5058 orion61

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 03:08 AM

  I was sick of finger printing and smudging my Celestron C6R yard Cannon Refractor (I LOVE THIS FREAKING SCOPE)!  I bought a solid Aluminum Handle from FleaBay, then I painted it with Rustoleum 7215 Black Hammered rattle can paint, and it  PERFECTLY matches the adjustable front hammered finish on the Objective Front cell.

  It took a Light coat, then I pre heated the Oven to 300 degrees F. I hung the piece and baked it for 20 minutes. The Paint flowed and glossed perfectly! Hard as a rock, and it matches perfectly. If you want to bake something bigger I would add another 2 minutes for every  3 inches added, this is 6 1/2 in long and 1/2 inch wide I made a Bar to span the top side of the rings.

  If you were going to do a larger flat surface like the size of a large laptop I would add 10 minutes. I have tried just about every time and temp and 300 at 20-30 minutes works the best. **IMPORTANT** You should lightly sand with a 200 grit sandpaper then wash with HOT water and Dawn dish soap, If the final rinse water is hot enough it will dry itself!. Wash your hands too, and dry the piece, prime a lite coat of primer, and let dry for an hour. You could use a rattle can paint with a built in primer. the Hammered paint I used didn't need a primer. If you don't sand and wash most likely than not you will get Fish-eye spots, they look like little craters that are bare in the center. These are caused usually by finger prints or oil/grease. I find it best to paint a very fine first coat, let it set for 30 minutes to avoid runs. Follow it up with a slightly thicker coat and hang off the rack right away. You will see all I had was brass washers but I plan to paint the bar sprayed with the same 7215 Hammered paint but I ran out.

  Feel free to PM me if you need help. It is partly why I started this Thread in the first place. It is here to help those that just need a bit of encouragement or help.

Happy Painting my friends!

Oh gosh, I sound like that fuzzy Haired guy with the

Pet Squirrel, and the happy trees and bushes, haha

Duane 

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Edited by orion61, 26 January 2020 - 03:09 AM.

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#5059 orion61

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 03:15 AM

Here is a Mod I did last winter but didn't post it. 

  I love this Crayford Focuser but it does not have a Focus LOCK screw.  I have another focuser with nice "Mag Wheel" polished Aluminium knobs that looks great, and has a lock for Astrophotography, I decided to look through my thumb screws and found these that let me change out focusers in less than 3 minutes, with no tools,not a big deal but I thought I'd share it anyway.

Have a great weekend.

Sincerely,

Larry "DUANE" Beach

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#5060 Terra Nova

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 09:28 AM

I APPRECIATE that Duane! I put handles on all my refractors of 4” and greater aperture. It makes dealing with them so much easier during mounting and dismounting.


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#5061 orion61

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 03:08 PM

Since I love my yard Cannon and as long as I can handle it my C6r is going nowhere, I did one other mod to my Drag control on my focuser. The Spring is there so there is no way it will fall out. It keeps wear and stress down and allows you to set "YOUR feel" by taking out the Allen screw slug and putting an adjustable knob in it's place. A USER FRIENDLY mod..

Make yourself a great day or Night.

Love and Respect to all,

Duane

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#5062 Pete W

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 05:35 PM

The finder on the Tasco 10TE did not have crosshairs, so today, with some thin wire and thick superglue, that was remedied.   They aren't arrow straight or perfectly in-focus, but it is better than nothing!

 

20200126_162507.jpg


Edited by Pete W, 26 January 2020 - 05:35 PM.

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#5063 orion61

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 10:02 PM

The finder on the Tasco 10TE did not have crosshairs, so today, with some thin wire and thick superglue, that was remedied.   They aren't arrow straight or perfectly in-focus, but it is better than nothing!

 

attachicon.gif20200126_162507.jpg

I have done that before using my own hair. a couple Astro buddies have used me as a Donor because my hair is very fine, not like those knuckle draggers haha, Yes I've called them that to their face, and the reply is always the standard "At least WE have hair"..haha.

If you mark it out before hand you can use tweezers to glue one end  of the Vertical and horizontal pieces let them set up then stretch the hair tight and use the thicker glue and tweezers. Thanks for sharing your idea. the metal is certainly more durable than hair.


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#5064 Terra Nova

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 11:45 PM

I have done that before using my own hair. a couple Astro buddies have used me as a Donor because my hair is very fine, not like those knuckle draggers haha, Yes I've called them that to their face, and the reply is always the standard "At least WE have hair"..haha.

If you mark it out before hand you can use tweezers to glue one end  of the Vertical and horizontal pieces let them set up then stretch the hair tight and use the thicker glue and tweezers. Thanks for sharing your idea. the metal is certainly more durable than hair.

I believe they actually used horse hair back in the old days.


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#5065 orion61

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 12:06 AM

I believe they actually used horse hair back in the old days.

I believe you are correct Terra, (There you go Thinking Again) !

Hey, I have a Bass Violin Bow and a regular Violin Bow that regularly loses strands of Horse hair! Let me know if you need some! 

Duane


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#5066 Kasmos

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 04:36 AM

The finder on the Tasco 10TE did not have crosshairs, so today, with some thin wire and thick superglue, that was remedied.   They aren't arrow straight or perfectly in-focus, but it is better than nothing!

 

attachicon.gif20200126_162507.jpg

I'm another who has used my own hair and it worked fine.

BTW, usually you can thread the little cell they are mounted on in or out to adjust them into focus.


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#5067 Kokatha man

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 04:47 AM

Upon hearing late this afternoon that there was a sunspot visible (AR2757) I raced outside with the little Pentax 50/600mm tabletop tripod scope & tried to take a few videos with my iphone after first eyeballing through various eps...

 

The best view was with a Celestron Kellner 40mm (15x) due to the pretty bad seeing - this ep power gave the sharpest resolution of this sunspot, although really the best one could do was focus it into a fairly distinct black but tiny spot.

 

Here's the iphone image using that ep alongside today's SOHO image...passable in the seeing & with the iphone as these cameras capabilities don't seem to respond to the Sun's exposure demands very well...although it could just as easily be said that this person still has very little idea of how to use an iphone camera very well..! rofl2.gif

 

Still, if SOHO only displays it as a small dark spot, I'll take it in that seeing. wink.gif

 

AS_stack_Sol-27-01-2020_R6wletsWEB@67%AS-SurfaceMode.png

 

 


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#5068 mikerepp

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 07:54 AM

Talking about human hair for cross hairs.  My mother and her sisters growing up lived next door to a guy who had a workshop in his backyard.  He made sights for the military during WW II.  My mother and my aunts donated cut hair to be used as cross hairs.

The fellow and his shop were still around in the sixties when I was young.  Visited his shop a few times, what I thought was very cool was he had a tunnel from his house to the shop.   The snow can get pretty deep in the UP of Michigan. wink.gif


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#5069 Pete W

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 08:10 AM

Years ago I used my dog’s hair (black lab), but have found that the hairs were hard to see.  They were in focus with glasses but essentially disappeared without unless they were refocused, a bit challenging to do quickly in the dark.  The wire is is a bit thicker so I hope they’ll be visible, albeit blurry, with or without glasses.    


Edited by Pete W, 27 January 2020 - 08:10 AM.

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#5070 Piggyback

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 08:59 AM

The friendly mailman delivered a small package today. Won auction for a little plastic cap. I had bid on an 80mm replacement for a missing lens cover of my Zeiss Telementor. Turns out the 80mm Pentacon advertised cap is identical to the OEM Zeiss Telementor cap. What a pleasant surprise. I sure wasn´t aware Pentacon and Zeiss shared identical lens covers. No need for that ugly pbj jar lid any more. lol.gif


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#5071 Uranotopia

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 09:42 AM

Yersterday evening I began to clean and lubricate some parts of the yesterday bought Tasco/ Vixen SP mount, as it seemed to move not so easy as I wished. The former owner told me, that he hadn't used the scope and the mount for several years - but it stayed in a dry and clean cellar all of the time.

Today I worked a little further, because at first the polar block seemed to be fixed, that means, I couldn't increase the altitude. I've loosened the screws, and suddenly it has begun to move slightly. 

But I've had to tighten the fixing screw in the middle rather hard to stop movement and decline of the polar axis (of course the scope and the counterweight are not so lightweight. I don't know, if this is normal - perhaps can anyone give my some helpful advices?!

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#5072 orion61

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 05:50 PM

Yersterday evening I began to clean and lubricate some parts of the yesterday bought Tasco/ Vixen SP mount, as it seemed to move not so easy as I wished. The former owner told me, that he hadn't used the scope and the mount for several years - but it stayed in a dry and clean cellar all of the time.

Today I worked a little further, because at first the polar block seemed to be fixed, that means, I couldn't increase the altitude. I've loosened the screws, and suddenly it has begun to move slightly. 

But I've had to tighten the fixing screw in the middle rather hard to stop movement and decline of the polar axis (of course the scope and the counterweight are not so lightweight. I don't know, if this is normal - perhaps can anyone give my some helpful advices?!

Just to let you know that scope needs to be re-Lubed, as it has dried up/ You will need to pull the gear lock rings off they are aluminum, there are two small locking Allen screws on it AND the Dec gear. I cant remember if they are accessible after you take the setting circles off or if it is under the small sticker by them. I LOVE those mounts, light weight and are really capable of holding a lot. The magic is in those wooden legs!


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#5073 orion61

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 06:02 PM

I'm another who has used my own hair and it worked fine.

BTW, usually you can thread the little cell they are mounted on in or out to adjust them into focus.

Before you unthread the small locking ring with the cross hairs make sure if it is a reticle finder those etched lines are easy to move and in the case of a polar alignment finder, will not be able to accurately work. So If you must remove it try and mark the outside barrel where the etchings sre. usually those will move taking loose and tightening, they are about impossible to clean without leaving smudges and dust, or erasing the ink.. be careful.

Duane



#5074 Mbinoc

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 10:43 PM

I have done that before using my own hair. a couple Astro buddies have used me as a Donor because my hair is very fine, not like those knuckle draggers haha, Yes I've called them that to their face, and the reply is always the standard "At least WE have hair"..haha.

If you mark it out before hand you can use tweezers to glue one end  of the Vertical and horizontal pieces let them set up then stretch the hair tight and use the thicker glue and tweezers. Thanks for sharing your idea. the metal is certainly more durable than hair.

The first time I tried fixing a set off crosshairs that I personaly messed up, I used some what I thought was thin wire that I tie flies with for fishing. It ended up being too bulky looking through the lens, but I just lived with it. The next time I have to do this I was going to try some Berkley NanoFil. I have one fishing reel spooled up with 4# test that has a diameter of 0.10mm, but you could also purchase it in tests as low as 2#, and that has a diameter of just 0.05mm.

 

I haven't tried this yet, but thought it might be a good option as its pretty tuff and durable stuff.

 

The 4# test has been on my ultralight reel for several years and still holds up well when in use.


Edited by Mbinoc, 27 January 2020 - 10:57 PM.

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#5075 Uranotopia

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Posted 28 January 2020 - 08:35 AM

Just to let you know that scope needs to be re-Lubed, as it has dried up/ You will need to pull the gear lock rings off they are aluminum, there are two small locking Allen screws on it AND the Dec gear. I cant remember if they are accessible after you take the setting circles off or if it is under the small sticker by them. I LOVE those mounts, light weight and are really capable of holding a lot. The magic is in those wooden legs!

Thx for this further informations, Duane!

I think I'll do this next time!




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