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What did you do to your Scope/Mount Today?

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#5526 Pete W

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Posted 26 July 2020 - 05:58 PM

Last night I noticed that the ceiling fan pulls might make nice replacement knobs for the axes locks on the Shrine Manon.  One of the original locks is broken plus they seem a bit fragile so shortly after acquiring the scope I cobbled together working locks using long 8-32 bolts, wingnuts and locking bolts.  This setup worked OK but it didn't look nice and finding and turning the wingnuts in the dark wasn't always easy.

 

20200726_174323.jpg

 

So, ordered some black pulls via Amazon, reamed out the hole a-bit and hand-threaded the pulls onto the 8-32 bolt.  I also added some spacers to hide the threads.  I'm very pleased on how they turned out - they look as if they could have come with the scope...if you don't look to hard.

 

20200726_174225.jpg


Edited by Pete W, 26 July 2020 - 07:30 PM.

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#5527 Kasmos

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Posted 26 July 2020 - 09:46 PM

Last night I noticed that the ceiling fan pulls might make nice replacement knobs for the axes locks on the Shrine Manon.  One of the original locks is broken plus they seem a bit fragile so shortly after acquiring the scope I cobbled together working locks using long 8-32 bolts, wingnuts and locking bolts.  This setup worked OK but it didn't look nice and finding and turning the wingnuts in the dark wasn't always easy.

 

attachicon.gif20200726_174323.jpg

 

So, ordered some black pulls via Amazon, reamed out the hole a-bit and hand-threaded the pulls onto the 8-32 bolt.  I also added some spacers to hide the threads.  I'm very pleased on how they turned out - they look as if they could have come with the scope...if you don't look to hard.

 

attachicon.gif20200726_174225.jpg

I like the concept of looking around the house and seeing things for how they might be used on a telescope.

 

If you're not careful one might gut the place. grin.gif


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#5528 Kasmos

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Posted 27 July 2020 - 02:53 AM

Yesterday before working on the 9TE's objective's spacers I dug into it's focuser for the second time.

The first time was posted last year:

https://www.cloudyni...uild-and-shims/

 

I was never happy with the way it felt since I bought the scope. First it was way tight, then too loose.

Since last time it still it felt inconsistant and made a small clanking noise as the tube rocked in the housing.

 

I checked another of these focusers that feels good and to take out the slop it has two thin rectangles of card board fore and aft in the top of the housing. Last time I put a full length strip of tape on top of another small rectangle at the eyepiece end. Forgetting what I'd done I last time, and after some trial and error, two slightly wider rectangles of doubled layered tape at the front and back emulates whats in the other focuser and removed the slight but annoying rocking movement.

 

9TE-Focuser-exp.jpg

This focuser had three of those pieces of sprung metal that puts tension on the pinion. The other had two. That I'd already known and only used two since last time. The three had put too much pressure on the rack slightly bending it upward in it's center which contributed to the uneven feel. I removed the rack and knew it could breack if I tried to bend it by hand. Especially since these are made of brittle pot metal and you need to bend metal slightly more for it to bounce back. For support and to control it's flex I put it teeth side down on a cushion of corrugated cardboard and gave it a pretty good blow in it's middle with a rubber malet. It staightened it perfectly. 

 

Since it was apart I flocked it with some velvet paper from a arts and crafts store.

Black-Velvet.jpg

The above photo was taken with a flash and shows how well it absorbs light.

Flocked-Tube.jpg

The small light stop was popped out to make it easier to install.

 

Once greased and with the pinion cover adjusted it feels much better, but sadly still not quite as smooth as the other focuser. I think it's because the rack is set slightly not in line in it's channel and there's a small amount of uneven wear of the teeth that's likely due to it. Perhaps it will smooth out more with use and now with less pressure on it.


Edited by Kasmos, 27 July 2020 - 03:19 AM.

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#5529 Garyth64

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Posted 27 July 2020 - 03:16 PM

I made an adapter for my old CG5 mount so I can change the direction the scope points as compared to the placement of the dec motor.

 

The dec motor is located on the side of the mount.  Depending on what object is being viewed, the motor will hit the mount.

 

CG5 mod 1a.jpg

 

Now after attaching the adapter, the scope will now line up with the dec motor. 

 

CG5 mod 8.jpg

 

The dec motor no longer interferes with the mount.

 

More on it here: https://www.cloudyni...old-cg-5-mount/


Edited by Garyth64, 27 July 2020 - 03:18 PM.

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#5530 icomet

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Posted 28 July 2020 - 10:55 PM

"Comet Catcher" rebuild #6 or #7 (can't remember how many times for this).

Will be a "dedicated binoviewer" scope.

 

Only utilize the top part of the original mirror cell from an old Orion dob. (10")

"There are no end-of-tube mirror cells allowed!" (Can't make a fast correction

if one's slide rule/ tape measure makes a mistake in the placement of the optical

mechanics.)

 

Doubled up the springs with heavier ones, using the original collimation knobs.

Had to find longer/machine flat head/metric threaded screws to replace the 

shorter original ones. 

 

Notice the "angles" to secure the cell to the tube. Funny looking holes on top.

These are 3 of the 6 mirror clips from my old DS-16 scope, being used as mirror

cell mounting hardware. Must recycle when possible, or too lazy to go get some.

 

Focuser is off of a 1993 Obsession. (Not shown, just tryin' to fit the bill for 'classic

telescopes' via older parts.)

 

Had a better idea which involved a tube that needed a larger OD then the previous

one, hence the current rebuild.

 

Do they make paisley paint?

 

Clear Skies.

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#5531 Bomber Bob

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Posted 29 July 2020 - 09:52 AM

No more tube-crusher rings for the Meade 390.  I found a used DS Series 90mm cradle on eBay:

 

Meade 390 Restore S11 - OTA (Cradle & Dovetail).jpg Meade 390 Restore S12 - OTA (Cradle & Dovetail).jpg

 

After bolting it to an SVBONY 200mm dovetail, I covered the heads with slick vinyl disks, then replaced the original very thin felt strands with large self-stick black felt pads.  It's a snug fit.  Now I can move the 390 from mount to mount, and have no problems rotating & balancing the scope.

 

Once again, these SVBONY slotted dovetails come in handy for adapting vintage hardware to more modern equipment -- and at very affordable prices.


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#5532 clamchip

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Posted 30 July 2020 - 02:58 PM

This tube end ring was easy to make and came out pretty nice, better than

I thought it would.

I needed one for the rear to match the front so I cut a long strip of fir 3/4" x 1/8"

and soaked it in water, wrapped around a bucket twice approx the size needed.

When dry tapered the ends with a plane, wrapped around the telescope tube

marked with pencil glued up with Aliphatic resin (carpenter's glue) sanded

painted.

If you would like end rings for a RV6 for example you may try different woods

for a smaller diameter ring set. Much easier than working with metal.

The thumb tacks are to give me something to hold when painting.

Robert 

 

IMG_0049.jpg

IMG_0053.jpg


Edited by clamchip, 30 July 2020 - 03:01 PM.

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#5533 Bomber Bob

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Posted 30 July 2020 - 05:37 PM

Very Nice Work Robert!   I would never think of bending wood to make rings like that -- excellent!


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#5534 icomet

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 06:59 PM

Let the comets be caught.

 

Clear Skies.

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  • comet catcher 4sm.jpg

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#5535 Mbinoc

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 08:53 AM

No more tube-crusher rings for the Meade 390.  I found a used DS Series 90mm cradle on eBay:

 

attachicon.gifMeade 390 Restore S11 - OTA (Cradle & Dovetail).jpgattachicon.gifMeade 390 Restore S12 - OTA (Cradle & Dovetail).jpg

 

After bolting it to an SVBONY 200mm dovetail, I covered the heads with slick vinyl disks, then replaced the original very thin felt strands with large self-stick black felt pads.  It's a snug fit.  Now I can move the 390 from mount to mount, and have no problems rotating & balancing the scope.

 

Once again, these SVBONY slotted dovetails come in handy for adapting vintage hardware to more modern equipment -- and at very affordable prices.

Before seeing your last post, I just noticed that you posted my very next project I have planned. A week ago I found a 80mm Meade f/10 tube assembly / lens and cradle minus the focuser.

 

I did not have a 80mm focuser so last night I chopped 5" off the end of a 60mm tube, and then made a 60mm to 80mm spacer. I can now mount a 60mm focuser I already had available.

 

What made me purchase this scope is I wanted the 80mm Cradle, and I thought I would give it my best effort to also fix up the 80mm scope.

 

I will end up repainting this one, and perform a refurbish.

 

My next project will be to route a wooden dovetail to attach to the 80mm cradle so the scope could be attached to one of my mounts.

 

1.JPG

 

2.JPG


Edited by Mbinoc, 01 August 2020 - 09:03 AM.

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#5536 Compressorguy

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 10:30 AM

This tube end ring was easy to make and came out pretty nice, better than

I thought it would.

I needed one for the rear to match the front so I cut a long strip of fir 3/4" x 1/8"

and soaked it in water, wrapped around a bucket twice approx the size needed.

When dry tapered the ends with a plane, wrapped around the telescope tube

marked with pencil glued up with Aliphatic resin (carpenter's glue) sanded

painted.

If you would like end rings for a RV6 for example you may try different woods

for a smaller diameter ring set. Much easier than working with metal.

The thumb tacks are to give me something to hold when painting.

Robert 

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0049.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_0053.jpg

Great solution, those are excellent! I made some rings for my RV-6 out of metal strip. Very inexpensive and easy. I polished them but I guess you could paint them if desired. The RV-6 just screams for rings. Link below

 

 

https://www.cloudyni...-the-mix/page-4


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#5537 tim53

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 11:01 AM

This tube end ring was easy to make and came out pretty nice, better than

I thought it would.

I needed one for the rear to match the front so I cut a long strip of fir 3/4" x 1/8"

and soaked it in water, wrapped around a bucket twice approx the size needed.

When dry tapered the ends with a plane, wrapped around the telescope tube

marked with pencil glued up with Aliphatic resin (carpenter's glue) sanded

painted.

If you would like end rings for a RV6 for example you may try different woods

for a smaller diameter ring set. Much easier than working with metal.

The thumb tacks are to give me something to hold when painting.

Robert 

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0049.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_0053.jpg

I've tried making wood rings by steam-bending woods like Poplar and Oak.  They were pretty small, and didn't come out particularly well.  I've been thinking lately about making some out of Lexan in two or more layers.  I have some scraps left over from some home improvement projects, and find it's really fun to work with.  Using a heat gun, you can bend it into pretty much any shape you want.  I've used polyester resin to bond two layers together, then bondoglass to cover/fill the result so it looks like a cast piece.  Nice thing about Lexan is that it's very hard to break, so rings made of it should be safer to hand an expensive OTA on than those cheap cast rings from China.

 

-Tim.


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#5538 Bob Myler

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 11:11 AM

When all else fails there's always these.....lol.gif

https://www.michaels.../M10124152.html


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#5539 Mbinoc

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 11:21 AM

When all else fails there's always these.....lol.gif

https://www.michaels.../M10124152.html

Interesting: I bet with some cabinet cork laminate sheets you could add filler size to fit most scopes, and could also chop them down for smaller rings. The price is also right.

 

I like this idea!

 

Clamchip's home brewed solution was also genius, and there will always be a extra level of satisfaction in conceptualizing and following through with a homemade project.


Edited by Mbinoc, 01 August 2020 - 11:31 AM.

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#5540 clamchip

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 11:39 AM

Today I needed to look at a 1946 Sky & Telescope.

After looking for a online archive copy to read I gave up and tried my

old Sky & Telescope 7 decade disk collection.

To my surprise it works in this computer ! (windows 10)

It didn't work in my old windows XP

So if your set is sitting around collecting dust try it in your new computer.

 

Robert



#5541 doolsduck

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 07:22 PM

I've tried making wood rings by steam-bending woods like Poplar and Oak.  They were pretty small, and didn't come out particularly well.  I've been thinking lately about making some out of Lexan in two or more layers.  I have some scraps left over from some home improvement projects, and find it's really fun to work with.  Using a heat gun, you can bend it into pretty much any shape you want.  I've used polyester resin to bond two layers together, then bondoglass to cover/fill the result so it looks like a cast piece.  Nice thing about Lexan is that it's very hard to break, so rings made of it should be safer to hand an expensive OTA on than those cheap cast rings from China.

 

-Tim.

Hot pipe bending might be a more controllable solution for small wood rings.  I have successfully bent curves down to 12mm radius for a commission.  For example  or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSTozKefP_k  


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#5542 CharlieB

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 09:27 PM

With a heated pipe for bending, you can make some very intricate curves that keep their shape.  Thinner wood works best, but I've bent pieces up to about 4mm thick.

 

IMGP0712 - Edited.jpg


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#5543 Chuck Hards

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 09:41 PM

I've always had better luck with heat, than steam.  The steam just doesn't penetrate the wood deeply enough to have much of an effect, it's the heat that makes the wood more pliable.  I've taken twists and warps out of wooden tripod legs with counter-bends and 300F heat.  


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#5544 tim53

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 10:14 AM

I need to revisit some work my son wanted to do building guitars.  He's made two while taking instruction from a luthier in Colorado several years ago, and they're wonderful instruments.  He's got a couple kits he hasn't finished as well.  I'll need to free up some space in the garage for him to get back to work on it, and need to come up with a heat bending rig to do the sides.  He'd like to use one of those heat blankets and jigs to bend the wood, but a luthier friend recommended the hot pipe instead. 

 

I don't know why I never thought of using a hot pipe for bending tube rings, though.  Excellent suggestion.  Even if I make lexan rings, that would be a very good way to heat them to bend them.  I love this group, for great suggestions.

 

In related news, I've always been impressed by the bent wood body frames in my Model A Fords.  These were made from oak, and in places like the body corners, they're tightly curved, and 2-3" thick.  You can follow the grain through the curve.  I seem to remember from old documentation, that Ford steam-bent the wood.  I can't imagine the machines to steam and bend such large pieces without splitting them!

 

-Tim.


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#5545 Terra Nova

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 11:06 AM

i love computers. I actually remember days without them.  Had a lot more time for other things.

Yes, remember how they were going to save us so much time, AND paper! :lol:


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#5546 Bomber Bob

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 12:08 PM

i love computers. I actually remember days without them.  Had a lot more time for other things.

True, but what about TV time?  It's no wonder we spent so much time outside when I was a kid, and we had only 4 channels on the Idiot Box.  Now...  200 / 400 / 600 "channels" of HD streaming media services...  While recovering from my OH surgery, I got familiar with way too many of those.


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#5547 Marc-Andre

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 09:11 PM

Today, I finished a weeks long project of installing an Optic-Craft mount, Polarex 4", and Edmund 6" reflector in my observatory.  I removed a Meade10" RG reflector (which is back on it's stand and mobile) from the observatory a few years ago since kids could not reach the EP even from the step stool.  Photo 1, before.  Photo 2, aligning the scopes on the saddle plate.  Photos 3, 4, & 5, after.  I installed a Bell Red LED bicycle taillight on the end of the counterweight shaft to avoid pain.  It has multiple intensity and continuous/blink settings.

 

IMG_20200728_172325.jpg

 

VID_20200802_153607_Moment.jpg

 

IMG_20200803_142656.jpg

 

IMG_20200803_142750.jpg

 

IMG_20200803_142846.jpg


Edited by Marc-Andre, 03 August 2020 - 09:24 PM.

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#5548 doolsduck

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 03:24 AM

I got my Super Polaris Mount tracking with an Arduino today on the way towards autoguiding.  Basically, the wonderful KenS has generously provided the code and the shopping list and generally hand held me this far.  

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Edited by doolsduck, 04 August 2020 - 03:25 AM.

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#5549 strdst

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 02:33 AM

Finally found Eddie Sr. a proper dew shield. Hey, Andy Warhol would have sorta liked it...maybe

 

"You have to be willing to get happy about nothing" A. Warhol

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Edited by strdst, 06 August 2020 - 02:40 AM.

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#5550 Marc-Andre

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 09:01 PM

Building something to support a D&G 6" f15.  I've had the scope 16 years and have gathered parts.  Finally time to move forward or pass it on.  I fit a Meade 16" mount to a 66" section of aluminum light pole, added lower brackets, and drilled holes in sections of I beam to use as upper brackets once I get more hardware.

 

IMG_20200807_133006.jpg

 

IMG_20200807_170152.jpg

 

IMG_20200807_170204.jpg

 

IMG_20200807_184720.jpg


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