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What did you do to your Scope/Mount Today?

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6316 replies to this topic

#6301 Star.Monger

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 06:35 AM

Cant help but notice how sweet your Jaegers looks in natural color

like my Jaegers 4 inch f 15.5

 

Love these scopes!  I've been on a polished alu tangent for the past couple of years. Somewhat inspired by Moonraker scopes and general 1950's sci-fi vibe. grin.gif


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#6302 Terra Nova

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 09:19 AM

I used to have a shorter 4” in a polished aluminum tube. I enjoyed that scope a lot!

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#6303 Senex Bibax

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Posted 08 October 2021 - 08:40 AM

Yesterday i finished the reversible conversion of the RAO EQ mount for my Sears 6339A to a dovetail base. Here is what I have done:

  • Removed the original clamshell
    clamshell

     

  • Fabricated an adapter using a 15 cm length of 1"x2" rounded corner aluminium tubing, with holes drilled and tapped for the mount shaft, the slow motion worm gear bracket and to mate to a SVBONY double clamp dovetail base.
    adapter
    adapter with dovetail

     

  • Added a thick greased washer as a spacer between the adapter and the mount.
    washer-spacer

     

  • And here is the finished result.
    adapter On mount

     

Now I can use this very stable mount, on my SpectraPhysics surveyor's tripod base for all of my telescopes. I have fitted (again, all reversible mods) matching dovetail bars to my Sears 6339A, Polaroscope 60mm, Omcon 118SE and Bushnell 4.5" reflector. If the original setup could easily handle the 6339A - the longest and heaviest scope - it should have no problem with any of the others.


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#6304 icomet

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Posted 08 October 2021 - 04:45 PM

Astrograph needed more c-wt.

 

Clear Skies.

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#6305 clamchip

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Posted 10 October 2021 - 06:20 PM

Brother Alan Vogt, who you probably know here from his Seattle area outreach with his 4 inch

Unitron equatorial, gave me his Tasco 10TE-5 project. Thanks again Alan !

He found one in excellent unrestored condition and he wondered if I would like to take the reins

on his project.

I have the optical tube back together. I replaced the felt in the focuser and cleaned things up

and made a few missing screws.

I must say it has a very fine lens. I've always wanted a 10TE, and I'm not surprised at all the

lens is jaw dropping since I own a 7TE-5, this is just a supersize version of it.

I decided to skip DPAC, I knew it was going to be perfection and it is. 

The focuser is excellent now with Home Depot 3/8" self-adhesive felt pads, these are just right

for the job.

I have the mount to go through next, for now it's on my Unistar.

I'm looking forward to doing some 3 inch f/15 observing.

Robert

 

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#6306 clamchip

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Posted 10 October 2021 - 11:19 PM

I'm using a .965" to 1.25" hybrid prism diagonal right now and my 1.25" eyepieces.

I do plan on observing with the original .965" eyepieces so I'm not modifying the

focuser for 1.25" accessories. 

The 10TE-5 manual states the clear aperture is 76mm making the focal ratio f/16.

As well made as this scope is I found one place I can improve it, flock paper  the

draw tube. I show a Edmund tube getting the treatment.

Robert

 

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Edited by clamchip, 10 October 2021 - 11:28 PM.

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#6307 Bomber Bob

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Posted 11 October 2021 - 04:03 PM

Putting that Baader 36.4mm to 1.25" Adapter Ring with Micro-Focus on the C102 F10 really paid off -- and I saw that last night:  Up to about 200x, the C102's stock R&P is fine, but above 50x per inch, the Baader is essential for me.  NAILED focus on Jupiter at 313x (AT Para 3.2mm) -- 78x per inch!  Stuck with that extreme magnification for almost an hour as the seeing bounced around 8/10, and got micro-seconds of awesome details.


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#6308 clamchip

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Posted 13 October 2021 - 09:53 AM

My new Tasco 10TE-5 Alan Vogt gave me is fabulous.

I want to clean all the original .965" eyepieces and optical accessories and clean and lube

the original mount so I can experience what it would have been like to observe thru it when

it was made in 1966. 

The eyepieces scare me a little especially the 4mm. And the mount, I guess I'll start taking 

out screws and see if it opens up to expose the inner workings.

Robert

 

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Edited by clamchip, 13 October 2021 - 09:56 AM.

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#6309 DreamWeaver

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Posted 13 October 2021 - 11:21 AM

This thread will help with the mount.  https://www.cloudyni.../?hl=10te mount


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#6310 clamchip

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Posted 13 October 2021 - 04:43 PM

This thread will help with the mount.  https://www.cloudyni.../?hl=10te mount

It sure will, thanks !

 

Robert


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#6311 bmwscopeguy

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Posted 13 October 2021 - 05:08 PM

Grueling 30 minutes...  I attached an SVBONY standard 1/4-20 tripod block to my 1980s Mizar BN-80 Nature Scope (still waiting on the dovetail clamp).  Mizar built the scope to take a lickin' so naturally I had to test that concept:  I attached the new dovetail block to the existing block (for reversibility).  And, Mizar made their block semi-proprietary.  My solution:  Single 1/4-20 bolt to the Mizar block, plus a 1/4-20 grub screw for no wiggle + leveling:

 

attachicon.gifMizar BN-80 Restore T11 - SVBONY Dovetail Block.jpg

 

Also:  See the camera platform on top?  A long screw runs through the back strut to the focuser flange...  Took me a confused couple of minutes to figure that out.  Really, Mizar?  Who is gonna put a 35mm SLR on top of this scope?

Hi Jeff,

 

Yeah, but that same mounting point will be perfect for an ASIair Pro which has a 1/4-20unc tapped hole on two sides...


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#6312 clamchip

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 07:04 PM

Today I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a  1.25" eyepiece holder to

screw into the end of the long skinny Astro Optical draw tube.

I tried things like the inlet of a star diagonal, inlet of a barlow, misc camera adapters

etc with no luck. I threw in the towel and just ordered a straight thru adapter:

https://www.ebay.com...4.c100667.m2042

In this photo I'm using a .965" to 1.25" hybrid diagonal and what you see is the draw

tube drawn out to focus at infinity, this is how much it is drawn out and is why its 

important to have tight felt holding this draw tube inside the focuser. I replaced my

felt with Home Depot self-adhesive 3/8" diameter felt pads, they are perfect for the

job.

Robert

 

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#6313 Garyth64

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 08:15 PM

I've had a couple Tasco 10TEs and a few Sears 6339a scopes.  They all were excellent performers.  Putting them on old cg-5 mounts they were great for outreach events.  (even in my own backyard.)

The only thing I didn't like was the long skinny draw tube.  And on all of those scopes I did the chrome drain pipe mod.  

Why didn't they make the tube a little longer?  (-well, it wouldn't fit in the wood box!)

 

I found that an ATCO 1254, 80x1200 scope has a longer tube than the Tasco and Sears scopes.  I think the 80x1200 Monolux and some others do too.  Those scopes don't have the long skinny draw tube and they accept the "vixen-style" 1-1/4" VB.

I also found that the RAO lens assembly from the Tasco/Sears scopes attaches directly on to the ATCO tubes.

 

So, here is my ATCO RAO 76.2x1200:

 

ATCO RAO photo b.jpg

 

The ATCO is APL, and riding on it is my APL Manon.

 

When I repainted the ATCO tube, I also repainted the lens cell to match the color of the focuser.  So it looks like a match, but the ATCO lens cell is a different design and cannot be collimated like the RAO cells can.


Edited by Garyth64, 14 October 2021 - 08:21 PM.

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#6314 Pete W

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Posted 14 October 2021 - 10:40 PM

Today I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a  1.25" eyepiece holder to

screw into the end of the long skinny Astro Optical draw tube.

I tried things like the inlet of a star diagonal, inlet of a barlow, misc camera adapters

etc with no luck. 

 

Here’s an option that should work:

https://www.cloudyni...okyopentax-j60/

 

In my 10TE I had to use a 30.5mm to 37mm step up ring, then a 37 to 42mm ring.    The 30mm to 42mm ring was too small to thread onto the drawtube. 


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#6315 Senex Bibax

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Posted 15 October 2021 - 07:30 AM

This thread will help with the mount.  https://www.cloudyni.../?hl=10te mount

That is also essentially the same mount that i recently adapted to use an SVBONY dovetail clamp instead of the clamshell. Of course, Robert is more interested in clam chips rather than their shells.


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#6316 clamchip

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Posted 15 October 2021 - 06:11 PM

I have a terrible craving for Manhattan style clam chowder, oh wow I can't stand it. 

Its been ages, I hope Ivar's has it. Their New England is so good I don't even look at the

menu. And I go for Cod & Chips, much better than the Pollock & Chips, but you get more

for your money with the Pollock.

Today I've been looking at the eyepieces that came with my 10TE-5 wondering how am I

going to clean these confused1.gif  bawling.gif

H20mm not too bad, HM12.5mm I feel some pain coming, SR4mm IMPOSSIBLE !

They are too dirty to clean with the glass in place. I need to remove the elements otherwise

I risk the grit scratching the coatings. I want to remove the tiny retaining rings, remove the

glass and soak these tiny lenses and gently clean between my finger tips in a flood of

water from the kitchen facet.

I think I have just the tool, my Edmund industrial microscope. It's made for looking at

machined parts, etc. vs biological stuff. If you want one I see'em on ebay all the time.

Robert

 

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Edited by clamchip, 15 October 2021 - 06:16 PM.

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#6317 clamchip

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Posted Yesterday, 10:17 AM

I mentioned a spot welder in another post and I thought I would show off my

Harbor Freight spot welder:

https://www.harborfr...lder-61206.html

I bought the 240 volt model but it's available 120V too.

Good deal for $160 and a 20% off coupon. You can make all kinds of telescope parts without the

need for tapping and threading or any fasteners.

 

Robert


Edited by clamchip, Yesterday, 10:18 AM.

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