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What did you do to your Scope/Mount Today?

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#7101 Lemmon714

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Posted 09 August 2022 - 06:08 PM

You poured beer on it? lol.gif lol.gif

It's terrible working in Pharmaceuticals- we use acronyms for everything.  A little off topic- HR sent out an email that said everyone is getting an STI this year.  shocked.gif lol.gif

 

Edit to the post above- The grease used on the compression ring for the secondary draw tube was completely solidified.  I had to use isopropyl alcohol to soften it so that I could extend the tube.  I then has to clean all the grease off the tube.  It is working very smooth now.  


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#7102 clamchip

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Posted 09 August 2022 - 06:52 PM

I bought some old Boeing surplus Titanium tube and a couple lenses from a local amateur.

In the stuff is a 2" rack and pinion I'm going to use on my 120mm f/8.3. I just finished the job.

In discussing the Titanium tubing with the seller he says when drilling holes in Titanium don't

diddle around its better if you use some pressure and get that bit to make big chips. If you take

it slow the bit will actually harden the metal and it will stop cutting.

That happened to me when I was drilling holes in Gort, that's how Gort got his name.

Robert

 

post-50896-0-80072300-1588524719.jpg


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#7103 Terra Nova

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Posted 09 August 2022 - 07:07 PM

I bought some old Boeing surplus Titanium tube and a couple lenses from a local amateur.

In the stuff is a 2" rack and pinion I'm going to use on my 120mm f/8.3. I just finished the job.

In discussing the Titanium tubing with the seller he says when drilling holes in Titanium don't

diddle around its better if you use some pressure and get that bit to make big chips. If you take

it slow the bit will actually harden the metal and it will stop cutting.

That happened to me when I was drilling holes in Gort, that's how Gort got his name.

Robert

 

attachicon.gifpost-50896-0-80072300-1588524719.jpg

Klaatu barada nikto! 

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#7104 Kasmos

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Posted 09 August 2022 - 10:08 PM

I bought some old Boeing surplus Titanium tube and a couple lenses from a local amateur.

In the stuff is a 2" rack and pinion I'm going to use on my 120mm f/8.3. I just finished the job.

In discussing the Titanium tubing with the seller he says when drilling holes in Titanium don't

diddle around its better if you use some pressure and get that bit to make big chips. If you take

it slow the bit will actually harden the metal and it will stop cutting.

That happened to me when I was drilling holes in Gort, that's how Gort got his name.

Robert

 

attachicon.gifpost-50896-0-80072300-1588524719.jpg

I remember hearing stories of the problems with drilling Titanium in the early days of building the SR-71. 


Edited by Kasmos, 09 August 2022 - 10:08 PM.

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#7105 Bomber Bob

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Posted 10 August 2022 - 05:18 PM

Y'all remember my Tak Sky Cancer dinky motorized EQ:

 

Tak SP EQ Delivered S05 - EQ Zoom (RS).jpg

 

It's the perfect size for my TS-65P, and my 50mm & smaller fracs, but I don't like the platform with its 2 standard 1/4-20 camera mount points; so I'm gonna remove it, and replace with a single-bolt Vixen-style dovetail plate.

 

It'll ride on a small Vixen hub, and use my Eagle wood tripod legs.  The latter came back to me following a swap:  The grand-kids managed to scratch the hardwood floors with its spikes; and, our son was worried they might topple the TN5 over as the legs have no spreader -- just a safety chain.  In return, they got a much lighter aluminum tripod with Vixen triangle tray -- rigid, stable, and almost 100% kid-proof.   [I did say, almost!]  The things we do for the young ones...

 

The only good thing about all these cloudy days & nights is re-assessing gear, and clearing more mount & tripod parts from the shed... I can move around in there now without knocking something over myself.


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#7106 norvegicus

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Posted 10 August 2022 - 06:21 PM

Y'all remember my Tak Sky Cancer dinky motorized EQ:

 

It's the perfect size for my TS-65P, and my 50mm & smaller fracs, but I don't like the platform with its 2 standard 1/4-20 camera mount points; so I'm gonna remove it, and replace with a single-bolt Vixen-style dovetail plate.

 

I can recommend this one.  I put one on a Porta II for my FS-60Q and it is solid and light weight.

 

https://www.amazon.c...uct/B08TC6G79N/


Edited by norvegicus, 10 August 2022 - 06:23 PM.

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#7107 clamchip

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Posted 10 August 2022 - 07:51 PM

I cleaned the damping grease from a Synta focuser today.

This scope came from a dusty environment and the damping grease was full of grit and actually grinding

away at the focuser innards.

I wanted to mention this because even though it is borderline vintage it is a very serious condition and will

destroy the focuser.

The damping grease is easy to remove with paint thinner without harm to the paint and plastic glides.

I removed all the gritty damping grease and reassembled dry without any lube, only a small amount of

White Lithium grease on the rack and pinion teeth.

 

Robert


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#7108 semlin

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Posted 10 August 2022 - 08:58 PM

well i finally added rings for the unitron 142

 

these are antares 3.5" rings (identical to st80 90mm rings, but from canada, eh) with 3d printed sleeve liners courtesy of @norvegicus. the liners are a rubbery tps material that gives them more than adequate grip and the little lips on the edge prevent the ring from slipping.  they work great.

 

this unitron still has not been first lighted.  it came without a mount or rings and the slightly larger ota diameter made it incompatible with any of my other 3" scope mounts.  i am that much closer now.  as of a few days ago i have an lx70 mount ready to go.  i also have a pier and a pier adapter for the lx70.  

 

all i need is to find the plastic spacer for the pier adapter to make the lx70 fit that i have mislaid.  then i will have a single mount i can hopefully use with all the scopes 

 

 

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#7109 Mike W

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Posted 11 August 2022 - 01:28 PM

Got my color coded shims today. Should be thermally stable!

shims.jpg
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#7110 bigbangbaby

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Posted 12 August 2022 - 04:16 PM

Picked up this Celestron C4.5 on a Polaris mount. Besides the usual dings from the stock tube crusher rings, it's in good shape. Mirror coatings are clean and nice. The mount was missing the latitude hard-stop screw. I happen to have the correct one from a previous acquisition!  Long odds on that one! The finder bracket was there but not the finder. I installed an RDF I had on the shelf.  Cleaned out the old grease on the Dec axis. Much better now. Center marked the primary using Gary Seronik's method with a folded-twice paper disk and adhesive ring. Lined up the mirrors using a Cheshire and collimation cap. Will see first light tonight if the clouds stay away.

E320894C-49CD-4B70-8FFD-6488F1E2C719.jpeg

 

First Light: Not the best night with a near full moon, high humidity and passing clouds. Despite it all, popped in my Baader 8-24 zoom and got a nice view of M57. Could clearly see the ring shape. M22 was bright and clear and I could see some individual stars. The beautiful blue and gold double star Albireo was tack sharp at 112x, the zoom high limit. Saturn was close to the rising moon and veiled by high clouds so not the best view. Clouds continued to roll in so Jupiter will have to wait for another night. Clouds mostly occluded the moon but a glimpse through the breaks showed crisp detail. All in all very pleased with the C4.5. Great optics and mount and light enough to carry in one trip.


Edited by bigbangbaby, 12 August 2022 - 10:33 PM.

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#7111 Bomber Bob

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 08:58 AM

Two very different platforms, ready to use:

 

SV M7 AZ S01 - SE120 vs Tak SC EQ (FL).jpg

 

I'm a big fan of the small Tak Sky Cancer EQ:

 

Tak SC Eagke Tripod S04.jpg Tak SC Eagke Tripod S05.jpg

 

Versatile, too!  All I had to do was remove the tilting arm, and use the remaining 1/4-20 bolt to attach a single-knob SVBONY dovetail clamp.  I boxed the SC parts together, so the next owner can restore it to original just as quickly.


Edited by Bomber Bob, 13 August 2022 - 09:02 AM.

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#7112 clamchip

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 10:06 AM

Mornings are when I do my best thinking.

This morning I thought, wouldn't it be nice to have a hydraulic mount for long refractors.

Harbor Freight says we can help:

https://www.harborfr...jack-56215.html

 

Robert


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#7113 JamesMStephens

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 10:44 AM

Y'all remember my Tak Sky Cancer dinky motorized EQ:

 

 

It's the perfect size for my TS-65P, and my 50mm & smaller fracs, but I don't like the platform with its 2 standard 1/4-20 camera mount points; so I'm gonna remove it, and replace with a single-bolt Vixen-style dovetail plate.

 

 

The circular arm on the stalk is actually for a 40-mm guide scope, so there is one 1/4-20 camera mount point (on the long section) and an attachment point for a guide scope.

 

Jim



#7114 Bob Myler

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 11:13 AM

Mornings are when I do my best thinking.

This morning I thought, wouldn't it be nice to have a hydraulic mount for long refractors.

Harbor Freight says we can help:

https://www.harborfr...jack-56215.html

 

Robert

Now THAT is going to be an interesting project to follow!



#7115 Bomber Bob

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 11:25 AM

By popular demand, a close-up:

 

Tak SC Eagle Tripod S07.jpg

 

The SC has a standard 1/4-20 threaded hole in its hub base.  The small Vixen tripod bracket has a hole in its center depression that I ran a Mc-Carr black anodized through.  The motor & arm is attached, but the battery pack isn't.  I may add steel tabs to a Vixen metal accessory tray so it can be popped on / off as desired.

 

Adding the dovetail clamp means this one small EQ can carry:

 

- TS-65/500

- TS-50/700

- Jaegers 50/600

- Yamamoto 60/420

- C90

- FC-76  (low - medium power)


Edited by Bomber Bob, 13 August 2022 - 11:43 AM.

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#7116 Terra Nova

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 12:02 PM

I finally have my re-build of my classic RAO GEM that goes with my Monolux 4380 done. A dear, dear friend and superb craftsman and cabinet maker made me a wonderful custom hardwood tripod. I waited a week after hand rubbing all the wood with boiled linseed oil, then started Monday with the wipe on polyurethane. It got three coats coats of wipe-on polyurethane and all is really looking great! I used a 1.25 inch hole-saw to cut out the hole in the accessory tray in order to install the Compass/bubble level. It had a short stalk on the bottom that protrudes ~0.25” below the base of the compass. Prior to installation, I made sure that the counterweight didn’t deflect the needle. It didn’t. It’s nice for a daytime alignment of the mount.

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Edited by Terra Nova, 13 August 2022 - 01:11 PM.

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#7117 steve t

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 02:22 PM

These past few weeks I've been working on some final miscellaneous items, on the to-do list, in order to wrap up the 1973, ATM, 4", Newtonian. One of the nice things was the discovery of a box that had more of the original parts from 1973. It's nice being able to keep it closer to original.

 

Though the original scope used a 4.25" F/8.5 mirror I had ground in 1973, and then had refigured, no matter what I tried, with this mirror, I could not get rid of the astigmatism I saw during a star test. In the end a test on a Bath Interferometer confirmed the figure looked like a potato chipfrown.gif, so I went to Plan B and used a NOS 4" F/10 mirror. I have used this mirror in the past, on another project, and it tested to be very good. It's amazing what years of experience can show that in the past was invisiblewink.gif

 

 

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#7118 Bob Myler

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 03:23 PM

Cool!   A gorgeous 4-1/4" version of what started it all (the ATM Movement).....

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#7119 Terra Nova

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 03:44 PM

Cool!   A gorgeous 4-1/4" version of what started it all (the ATM Movement).....

I still have that book! Sadly, the dust jacket with that wonderful picture has been gone forever tho.


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#7120 JamesMStephens

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 03:50 PM

These past few weeks I've been working on some final miscellaneous items, on the to-do list, in order to wrap up the 1973, ATM, 4", Newtonian. One of the nice things was the discovery of a box that had more of the original parts from 1973. It's nice being able to keep it closer to original.

 

Though the original scope used a 4.25" F/8.5 mirror I had ground in 1973, and then had refigured, no matter what I tried, with this mirror, I could not get rid of the astigmatism I saw during a star test. In the end a test on a Bath Interferometer confirmed the figure looked like a potato chipfrown.gif, so I went to Plan B and used a NOS 4" F/10 mirror. I have used this mirror in the past, on another project, and it tested to be very good. It's amazing what years of experience can show that in the past was invisiblewink.gif

Tell us about that mount.  Did you make babbitt bearings as in Thompson's book?

 

Jim


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#7121 clamchip

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 04:38 PM

The astigmatism, is it possible its from the mechanical alignment of the optics?

I'm sure you probably checked that.

I've had two achromats lately with astigmatism because of tilted objectives.

One is my fault because I didn't have the objective square to the tube in a temporary

test tube. The other lens was the manufacturers fault, they didn't cut the cell threads

square to the tube.

My astigmatism diagnosed by a slight oval to a defocused star, the oval turns 90 deg 

on the other side of focus. And also a slight flair from one side of a focused star.

 

Robert 


Edited by clamchip, 13 August 2022 - 04:41 PM.

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#7122 steve t

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 06:02 PM

Tell us about that mount.  Did you make babbitt bearings as in Thompson's book?

 

Jim

The mount has Babbett bearings per Thompson's book. I can't take credit for the mount; a friend of my grandfather was a hobby machinist and had made mounts for a few other teenagers in the area. He also provided guidance while I ground the mirror. Along with being a hobby machinist he was a painter and loved classical music (built his own amplifier). He and his wife were a generous, kind, and the best mentors I've come across. To a young teenager, any visit to their house was a trip into wonderland.

 

 

The astigmatism, is it possible its from the mechanical alignment of the optics?

I'm sure you probably checked that.

I've had two achromats lately with astigmatism because of tilted objectives.

One is my fault because I didn't have the objective square to the tube in a temporary

test tube. The other lens was the manufacturers fault, they didn't cut the cell threads

square to the tube.

My astigmatism diagnosed by a slight oval to a defocused star, the oval turns 90 deg 

on the other side of focus. And also a slight flair from one side of a focused star.

 

Robert 

Hi Robert,

What ended up pointing to the problem being the mirror was the astigmatism followed the mirror when it was rotated in its cell and was verified when I sent it off to be tested using a Bath Interferometer. The measured Strehl ratio = .526 due to the astigmatism. The frustrating part was that if the astigmatism were ignored, the Strehl ratio would have been .968. This could have been why I never noticed it before.

 

Steve T


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#7123 sdedalus83

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 09:49 PM

I was trying to remove what I thought was a screwed on cap over the secondary collimation adjustments on my Lumetar 1250mm and ended up loosening the secondary assembly. The cap ended up just being a piece of leatherette which peeled off.

 

I pulled the corrector and tightened the secondary and baffle tube, then cleaned the corrector. Fortunately there was no etching or persistent haze and it now looks as nice as the rest of the scope.

 

Checking collimation on Polaris showed moderate misalignment. A few minutes and one lost allen wrench took care of it. Hopefully I can find it in the morning.

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Edited by sdedalus83, 13 August 2022 - 11:29 PM.

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#7124 Lentini

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 11:59 PM

Today I replaced the 1.25” adapter in my hand (that has only one thumb screw) with the Baader Ultra Short adapter with three screws and brass ring. 
 

The old one was SUPER low profile, important for this scope, but the one screw wasn’t good for adding the binoviewer. The Baader is about half the light path of the Takahashi 1.25” adapter, which is why I’m not using the Tak. For some reason the TS-80 was designed with too little in-focus for some 1.25” eyepieces. (The TS-65D doesn’t have that problem, so I just use the Tak 1.25” adapter with it.)

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#7125 clamchip

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Posted 14 August 2022 - 03:46 PM

The astigmatism, is it possible its from the mechanical alignment of the optics?

I'm sure you probably checked that.

I've had two achromats lately with astigmatism because of tilted objectives.

One is my fault because I didn't have the objective square to the tube in a temporary

test tube. The other lens was the manufacturers fault, they didn't cut the cell threads

square to the tube.

My astigmatism diagnosed by a slight oval to a defocused star, the oval turns 90 deg 

on the other side of focus. And also a slight flair from one side of a focused star.

 

Robert 

Tonight I'm going to go after this problem of astigmatism.

I don't mind the ovaled diffraction pattern but a star flare at high power in focus won't be tolerated.

The cell cannot be collimated (no screws) and the cell is threaded onto the tube.

What I'm hoping for is if I can rotate the cell and cancel out the tilt in the lens.

I will be really lucky if this works. If it doesn't work I'll take a better look at things and verify where

the problem is.

I'm going to guess the female threads in the cell are not square to the bore and lens seat of the cell.

I think this is more likely than the male threads on the tube being cut crooked because the tube is

long and in a lathe it would be harder to flub up.

 

Robert


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