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What did you do to your Scope/Mount Today?

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#7251 CHASLX200

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Posted 19 September 2022 - 05:51 AM

I wonder if there is enough demand for you to make a living restoring old newts.

 

Your work is nothing short of beautiful

Don't know where he finds them. Never any in FL around me. I need that blue mount bad for my 826 Meade.


Edited by CHASLX200, 19 September 2022 - 05:51 AM.


#7252 clamchip

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Posted 19 September 2022 - 10:43 AM

I found this mention of the Sears 6345.

It's amazing what you will find in the Sears catalog.

Click on the catalog telescope page to increase it's size:

https://www.airplane...r-telescope.htm

 

Robert


Edited by clamchip, 19 September 2022 - 10:47 AM.

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#7253 Bomber Bob

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Posted 19 September 2022 - 05:45 PM

I finally got around to DPAC'ing the lens on my orange Vixen HALLEY SPC-60L...

 

When I get a "new" old refractor, I clean the 2 outer faces, then test as delivered.  Good Lord!  The first pattern reminded me of the first Color TVs!  I thought, no way Vixen would let this get past the factory!   They didn't.  Previous Owner apparently worked on it...  Must've taken the lens out, cleaned between the 2 elements with spittle & a Kleenex, then reassembled, but didn't tighten the retainer enough... the crown had moved skyward, and wedged in the cell....  Removing it was a nail-biter, but I got the lens out, properly cleaned, aligned, and re-mounted.  VG pattern now -- typical Vixen.

 

If the weather holds, I'll star-test it WEDS night...


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#7254 icomet

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Posted 23 September 2022 - 04:49 PM

it's a done deal now. You get one shot to get it right. 

 

Clear Skies. 

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#7255 icomet

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Posted 23 September 2022 - 06:53 PM

Moving right along. 

 

Clear Skies. 

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#7256 clamchip

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Posted 23 September 2022 - 07:03 PM

I'm working the bugs out of my new Celestron C8.

Black tube 1980's model.

The focuser has unacceptable image shift and worst of all take up, meaning you would need to

focus up to focus but if you went down from focus a huge amount of nothing before reverse focus

would move.

The problem is the bearings are sloppy.  I didn't think this scope had many miles on it but maybe it

does.

Bearings are: NMB  RI-1438HH

What I did to tighten things up is I placed a doubled file card stock under one side of the bearing

stack. This cocks the bearing and loads the ball race and removes all slop. The black bearing retainer

rests on the bearing and does not contact the cell so it will allow for the shim.

It works great and removed 90% of the bugs. New bearings with a tighter tolerance will remove 100%

of the problem, and I just might do that if I like the scope.

Robert

 

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Edited by clamchip, 23 September 2022 - 07:06 PM.

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#7257 Bomber Bob

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Posted 24 September 2022 - 10:39 AM

I don't understand... Kenko, JSO, & Mizar put helical focusers on their CATs, while Celestron & Meade went with a moving primary.  Yet, their ads pushed astrophotography (all those pretty color photos!)...  IME, more precise focusing with a helical -- and no mirror flop.


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#7258 cavedweller

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Posted 24 September 2022 - 11:19 AM

With a moving primary, Isn’t there an optimal distance between components (corrector, primary, secondary) which can only be had at one focal position?


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#7259 Kasmos

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Posted 24 September 2022 - 01:43 PM

With a moving primary, Isn’t there an optimal distance between components (corrector, primary, secondary) which can only be had at one focal position?

Technically true but there's a reason (I can't recall) why Celestron justified it. I believe they thought in practice it had a minimal effect. That said I've seen some with an added helical focuser. Which brings up, is that one of the reasons the aftermarket sold the ad on rack and pinion focusers?


Edited by Kasmos, 24 September 2022 - 03:33 PM.

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#7260 rob1986

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Posted 24 September 2022 - 02:40 PM

Spherical surfaces make the optimal orientation less important. I expect that the moving mirror made it easier to use the scope with all accessories and to rigidly mount even a large series on the back of the scope. No focusing mechanism had to bear the weight.

Edited by rob1986, 24 September 2022 - 02:41 PM.

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#7261 Lentini

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Posted 24 September 2022 - 03:34 PM

What did I do? I walked by and ran my hand over the tubes… Some might say fondled them. Is a tactile affection for the scopes inappropriate? They are almost 50 years old. They’re just pretty. 


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#7262 Michael Covington

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Posted 24 September 2022 - 04:33 PM

I don't understand... Kenko, JSO, & Mizar put helical focusers on their CATs, while Celestron & Meade went with a moving primary.  Yet, their ads pushed astrophotography (all those pretty color photos!)...  IME, more precise focusing with a helical -- and no mirror flop.

Celestron was aiming at producing a striking combination of versatility and low cost.  An early Celestron SCT isn't perfect for anything -- but it could be a lot easier to afford and use than things that were!   Celestron ushered in the era of portable astronomy, where we would go to dark sites with our equipment in the trunk of the car.  Try doing that with a 10-inch Cave Astrola (no, I never did) or even an RV-6.

The moving primary made possible accessories that were developed much later, such as the f/6.3 compressor.


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#7263 clamchip

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Posted 24 September 2022 - 06:35 PM

Today I finished up my collimation on my mid 1980's C8.

It's a Questar 8 inch. Oh does it make me smile.

I just can't believe yesterday it was unusable and today I own a Questar 8.

Medium size SCT's are too atmospheric sensitive, It's more than just the 2000mm focal length, they are fussy.

Also the light travels through the tube 3 times, I imagine that can raise havoc sometimes too.

My new Questar 8 came with this dew shield, anybody recognize it? 

I like it very much. It slides inside the cell, I don't know how you're suppose to hold it on, I used a piece of

blue masking tape. It looks factory to me, from the same tube the C8 is made from.

Oh man, I pray for more happy kitty days. I've seen what this C8 can do, it's a dreamscope.

Robert

Here's the unknown dew shield. You can see the seam where its butt-welded, just like the C8 tube:

 

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Edited by clamchip, 24 September 2022 - 06:41 PM.

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#7264 CHASLX200

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Posted 24 September 2022 - 06:43 PM

Could be my old OTA that was freaky sharp. Try Jupiter at 450x.


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#7265 clamchip

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Posted 25 September 2022 - 06:29 PM

Today I added my Sears eyepiece powers to the wall above my bench in the shop.

I'm running out of room, I may need to redecorate.

I like these cards because at a glance I can see my magnification for a given telescope

focal length. The Sears 90 is a 1400mm so I had to make one for 1400mm. 

My observing light is 115 volts, you can see the in-line dimmer behind it. This enables

me to select a eyepiece on my bench and read my cards to see power being used. 

I do occasionally have a look at star charts but my sky show for the evening is all planned

before hand.

I read somewheres mosquitoes are attracted to red. Maybe braille eyepieces would be a

good idea.

I keep my eyepieces in pill bottles, I could braille the size on the bottle. Which reminds me

if you use pill bottles drill a vent hole so your eyepiece can breathe and any condensation can

evaporate. The size of your vent hole depends on how big your unwanted guests are. 

Robert

 

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Edited by clamchip, 25 September 2022 - 06:56 PM.

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#7266 apfever

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Posted 25 September 2022 - 06:54 PM

That looks like an early 1900's oiling vial with flip valve.Those tend to feed large bushing type bearings on big machinery. 

Any insight to it original use?  Here's a couple on my large lathe (telescope tool) well over 100 years old and going very strong. 

Sorry, I should have cleaned them up. The have beautiful brass and glass architecture. 

 

It is a bit of a stretch for this forum, but telescope parts are the only thing I've ever used the lathe for. 

Robert feel free to pm me if you prefer, if you would. 

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#7267 clamchip

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Posted 25 September 2022 - 07:38 PM

Cool old lathe you have there Neil.

The oiler in my picture belongs to a drag saw. And you know it's a Sears drag saw !

Drag saws were used before the chain saw. Powered by a water cooled 2-cycle the

blade reciprocated. These drag saws could be laid on a fallen tree and it will automatically

cut thru the log, sometimes 6 feet in diameter, and stop when done. Tree cutting back

then was done with a two-man blade with the operator's standing on spring boards set into

the trunk sometimes as much as 6 feet from the ground.

Lumberjacks were fed very well, steak usually, they deserved it, they burned a lot of calories.

 

Robert


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#7268 ccwemyss

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Posted 25 September 2022 - 08:37 PM

I finished the counterweight brackets for the sliding counterweight assembly on the Edmund 4". They are currently bare aluminum, and I may paint them black at some point, but good painting weather is slipping away from us, and I want to move on the dew shield.

 

Now that it has a 2" focuser, the OTA is so long that the weight difference between a 55mm plossl and a 9mm is great enough to put it well out of balance. The AP706 mount that I have it on is much easier to deal with when balanced. The dec lock, in particular, is finicky. It needs to be loose for the axis to move smoothly, and is hard to reach from the eyepiece. With good balance, something can be centered in the eyepiece and I can move around to turn the lock without bumping the OTA.

 

Now the 55 mm eyepiece is balanced when the weight is all the way forward, and with a light eyepiece the weight comes about 2/3 of the way back. The assembly is as far forward as it can go right now, but the new dew shield will add some weight and enable it to move back. 

 

I also got the Edmund label glued back onto the Voyager.

 

Chip W. 


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#7269 clamchip

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Posted 27 September 2022 - 02:36 PM

I cleaned the eyepieces supplied from the factory with my Sears 6345 kit.

These were made by Astro Optical like the rest of the scope in 1969.

The color coding is unique and I love it, very sixties.

I spent all morning on them. I wanted to be fresh and alert. You only get one

chance. I am holding in my hands diamonds from Astro Optical.

They cleaned up well except the 4mm. My feeling is this eyepiece was never

used. It collected dust, the dust attracted moisture, and it looks like the coating

may be oxidized, you can see it in my photo. It looks dead and lifeless.

I found a close newer but still Japan 4mm in my miscellaneous goodstuff drawer

just in case the kit 4mm is beyond use.

I hope not, I want to see a 1969 4mm sky thru this fantastic amazing telescope.

Robert

 

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Edited by clamchip, 27 September 2022 - 02:40 PM.

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#7270 clamchip

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Posted 27 September 2022 - 02:47 PM

I forgot the kit 22mm.

I had cleaned this one earlier.

A fine eyepiece. Nice and bright and of course very sharp.

 

IMG_0927.jpg


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#7271 clamchip

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Posted 27 September 2022 - 06:47 PM

I had a chance to try out these eyepieces, they are very sharp, and can see no reason

to relegate these to dust plug duty. There is a learning to using these, I think. I at first

thought I needed to pluck my eye lashes, but within a few minutes I think I've got the

hang of it. 

I notice the field is bright, even the 4mm at 350 power.

I started thinking about the tiny elements in these eyepieces. I think this is a wise move

and probably done for less loss due to glass absorption. Also these designs have few

elements all adding up to a brighter image.

They are pleasingly sharp I'm surprised. I think the way they present the subject is not

nearly as nice as a modern eyepiece, but I think the sharpness is there.

I repaired the erecting prism case. Super Glue is perfect for Bakelite. And there's the 22mm

from the kit.

I can now travel back it time to 1970. The Sears 6345 90mm became available in the 

catalog in 1970. I'm willing to bet all 400 of these scopes were built in 1969, serials are all

starting with a 9 for 1969.

Robert

 

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#7272 ErnH2O

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Posted 28 September 2022 - 09:27 AM

Robert

 

Good to see that beauty up and running. I had the same "eyelash problem" when I first got mine.

 

Ern

 

 


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#7273 ccwemyss

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Posted 28 September 2022 - 12:18 PM

Got the new focuser on the Edmund 4" collimated. I made a round paper mask that fit inside the cell with a circle drawn around a center spot where the pinhole left by the compass was. Then put in a very good laser collimator and set a mirror in front of the objective, so I could watch from the rear. After ensuring that the collimator was centered in the focuser, it showed a spot that was off by half an inch.

 

The Baader adapter ring has six set screws, so I loosened those and angled the extension tube I had made until the laser was coming through the pinhole, then locked them down. After that, I removed the set screws, one at a time, and drilled a divot for the screw to go into and grip. There's still a little play in the R&P itself, but the focuser body is now aligned. I also checked collimation of the objective with a Cheshire, and it is dead on. 

 

Then I re-tapped the hole in the bottom of the focuser tube of the Voyager so I could put a shortened 6-32 knurled knob into it and lock the diagonal in place. The only thing I still need to do for it is add cross-hairs to the eyepiece. Everything is back together and ready to star test. I may put the 4" assembly out in the observatory, since both of the observatory scopes are in the shop for work. It will be fun to slew it around on the goto mount to objects I wouldn't normally hunt down with such along OTA (although the improved finder may change that). 

 

Chip W.


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#7274 clamchip

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Posted 28 September 2022 - 05:22 PM

My Sears 6345 tube mounting rings are broken. When I bought it at the yard sale the tube was

zip-tied to the mount !

Every once in a while I have a job I can't repair myself. I do my best but welding aluminum is

something I can't do.

Welding aluminum is a specialist job and they like things clean. Also, the parts will be heated in 

a oven just before the welding so strip all paint.

These rings are for the Sears model 6345 so forget about finding a replacement.

Notice the pairs are serial numbered, these were handmade and are a matched pair.

Depressing sight but we do what must be done.

Robert

 

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#7275 cavedweller

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Posted 28 September 2022 - 06:52 PM

It looks like one of the tapped holes is broken as well.

 

Will that be fixed and how?




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