9694 replies to this topic

[clamchip]

Have I gone Reflectix mad, I think so.

For the first time I should be able to use a C8 all winter.

The idea is to slow down, dampen, the heat gain/loss of the tube. I think the thick cast cells are ok.

I tried it out on my Jaegers Mak in the background and I do believe it works.

Also I'm using my Unistar altazimuth and it needs a dovetail bar and I'm worried about my tube 

expanding and contracting with just one bar, it might curl like a banana, so I put a bar on the other

side to equalize.

These cats sure are persnickety. I really like the design and I'm trying to be friends!  

Robert

 

[ccwemyss]

On my C14, the cells are one of the biggest repositories of heat. I have the reflectix going across the back and all the way up the dew shield.  It overlaps under the dovetail, and has velcro to hold it. The back is a separate piece with velcro tabs that secure it to the tube wrap. It has cutouts for the visual back and the focus knob.

 

Chip W. 

[deSitter]

On my C14, the cells are one of the biggest repositories of heat. I have the reflectix going across the back and all the way up the dew shield.  It overlaps under the dovetail, and has velcro to hold it. The back is a separate piece with velcro tabs that secure it to the tube wrap. It has cutouts for the visual back and the focus knob.

 

Chip W. 

I just wonder how much of this is overkill. I have yet to really evaluate the thermal properties of my 180mm Mak but I will probably just drape a layer over the top to isolate the sky.

 

-drl

[jragsdale]

I just wonder how much of this is overkill. I have yet to really evaluate the thermal properties of my 180mm Mak but I will probably just drape a layer over the top to isolate the sky.

 

-drl

When the extra weight of the reflectix starts affecting the stability of the mount, that's overkill. Rare to get overkill in insulation.

[clamchip]

I'm completely new to Reflectix and just experimenting with it and willing to try any ideas anyone has to offer.

What made me pursue it in the first place was noticing how well my RV6 RV8 and DX8 are doing with the

weather change, these all have phenolic tubes.

It seems to work well on my Jaegers 6 inch Mak, but I don't know the scope as well as I know a C8. Historically

around here when it gets cold a C8 just falls apart and I'm very familiar with this so I'm curious, will it fix the

C8, I hope so.

 

Robert

Edited by clamchip, 10 November 2024 - 04:16 PM.

[cavedweller]

I have just discovered the joy of the superglue activator spray. Apply superglue to part A, spray part B with activator, push together (quickly!) and it fully cures in about 10 seconds. Usually a stronger bond that just superglue alone. Really makes superglue super easy to use.

I recall using nail polish remover, which I think was acetone, in a production setting  for the same purpose. I did not apply it to either part; once the Super Glue is applied and the pieces clamped together, I applied it on the surrounding surfaces and the fumes accelerated the curing.

[Kitfox]

Have I gone Reflectix mad, I think so.

For the first time I should be able to use a C8 all winter.

The idea is to slow down, dampen, the heat gain/loss of the tube. I think the thick cast cells are ok.

I tried it out on my Jaegers Mak in the background and I do believe it works.

Also I'm using my Unistar altazimuth and it needs a dovetail bar and I'm worried about my tube 

expanding and contracting with just one bar, it might curl like a banana, so I put a bar on the other

side to equalize.

These cats sure are persnickety. I really like the design and I'm trying to be friends!  

Robert

 

IMG_2863.JPG

IMG_2864.JPG

 

That's a really strange looking OTA on that top shelf...

[clamchip]

That's a really strange looking OTA on that top shelf...

One of my other hobbies, model airplanes!

[PIEJr]

My scope/mount is for AP. So yesterday I greased up some of my main USB connectors to seal out dew and moisture.

A bit of electrical maintenance, really. For the coming winter and cold/rainy weather since my equipment lives outdoors under a forced ventilated cover.

 

Unfortunately, there were high clouds, so I didn't play last night. Maybe tonight.  

 

I also took my smaller portable compressor out and blew the dusts from the wind off and wiped my mount down.

[CHASLX200]

Throwing stuff away and going thru stuff i have not touched in years that did not get wet. If i had any cents i would sell 70k worth of stuff for 2k in one last bang and be rid of every last bolt.

[jragsdale]

Throwing stuff away and going thru stuff i have not touched in years that did not get wet. If i had any cents i would sell 70k worth of stuff for 2k in one last bang and be rid of every last bolt.

I'll take it! Drop it off at UPS Store, have them pack and ship, I'll pay for everything. Don't throw anything away!

[CHASLX200]

I could not ever deal with shipping ever again. Even getting paid 10 times more i would no sooner ship it then burn it.  I am over and done on this for good.  47 years and 100's of scopes so i had a good run and tried about everything you can dream of. I gotta figure out how i am gonna live for the next 20 years.

[jragsdale]

I could not ever deal with shipping ever again. Even getting paid 10 times more i would no sooner ship it then burn it.  I am over and done on this for good.  47 years and 100's of scopes so i had a good run and tried about everything you can dream of. I gotta figure out how i am gonna live for the next 20 years.

I know you said you're over shipping, and I get it, but would you be open to just dropping them off at a UPS Store as-is, and then I can deal with them for the packing and shipping process and cost? And I wouldn't hold you responsible for any shipping damage, it's all on them since they're doing the packing. If you want to, I could clean them up, sell them for you (handle all the  communication and shipping) then split the proceeds with you? Then you're not getting pennies on the dollar, more like 50 cents on the dollar, and everything will go to the astronomy community in good clean shape. Just a thought, it'd be a win-win, and you won't have to give them away, throw them away or burn them (eek). PM me if you change your mind!

[apfever]

I assembled the last of the mechanical which is the drive train. Everything completely gone through. Final assembly will be arduous. The drive has several worm assemblies that bolt into a rigid train. It has to be shimmed and aligned to have all the worms relaxed. I have it roughed enough to check the drive for slop or major issues. So far it is good with very little slop in any of the worm assemblies. 

It is mostly finger tight. It comes back apart for final cosmetics, week(s) of paint cure, and final assembly.

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[deSitter]

I know you said you're over shipping, and I get it, but would you be open to just dropping them off at a UPS Store as-is, and then I can deal with them for the packing and shipping process and cost? And I wouldn't hold you responsible for any shipping damage, it's all on them since they're doing the packing. If you want to, I could clean them up, sell them for you (handle all the  communication and shipping) then split the proceeds with you? Then you're not getting pennies on the dollar, more like 50 cents on the dollar, and everything will go to the astronomy community in good clean shape. Just a thought, it'd be a win-win, and you won't have to give them away, throw them away or burn them (eek). PM me if you change your mind!

Nobly motivated and well done.

 

-drl

[Cavs56]

I wasn’t happy with my cleaning effort on my Meade 2080. It is also a mismatched corrector from another telescope. The corrector I used had multiple marks. The round silver dot is the factory mark. I have had three of these apart and one C-8. Three of four and maybe all four had the mark set between 2 and three o’clock. So I set it there. During collimation I noticed what I thought was a loose corrector. It was actually a cross threaded secondary holder. I fixed that the finished collimation. I made an artificial star it really helps when starting with a scope completely out. I got collimation perfect. It was much better under the stars last night.

[Kefka1138]

Curious, does anyone have experience with "astromodded" Russian lenses? If so, how was the performance? Any best practices or common mods I should be aware of?

 

I found this adorable 100mm MAK on SGW for $60 with clean glass and beautiful purple-blue coatings - reminds me of a "Darth Meade". Additionally, it came with a factory 116mm UV filter and screw on metal dew shield. Needles to say, but I'm smitten with this little thing.

 

I'm using an old Intes M42 to 1.25" screw on adapter to mount the Lumicon and drilled holes in the mounting collar to host a guide scope.

 

Focusing is achieved by rotating the OTA. It provides really crisp contrasty views in the moon and is a joy to use. 

 

Either way, thought I'd share. 

 

Edited by Kefka1138, 12 November 2024 - 07:16 PM.

[CHASLX200]

I know you said you're over shipping, and I get it, but would you be open to just dropping them off at a UPS Store as-is, and then I can deal with them for the packing and shipping process and cost? And I wouldn't hold you responsible for any shipping damage, it's all on them since they're doing the packing. If you want to, I could clean them up, sell them for you (handle all the  communication and shipping) then split the proceeds with you? Then you're not getting pennies on the dollar, more like 50 cents on the dollar, and everything will go to the astronomy community in good clean shape. Just a thought, it'd be a win-win, and you won't have to give them away, throw them away or burn them (eek). PM me if you change your mind!

JUST NOT ENOUGH TIME. Looks like hit number 4 is coming fast with a another cane coming my way. This could be the end for sure for me and the house and whatever is left. If the house goes i am gone for good.

[ccwemyss]

Spent about 2 hours fighting with one of the loaner RV6 scopes, trying to collimate it so it can go out to a student. I've concluded that the secondary spider isn't centered, and it doesn't look like there is enough thread on the studs to get it back to center. I wonder if the tension has warped the tube? I could get the laser collimator (a Glatter) centered on the primary, but when I the collimate the primary, the return is partly cut off. The focuser may also be at an angle. And why did they use English unit hardware on the primary cell and metric on the secondary? The primary screws also spin freely, so to takes pliers to hold the screw while turning the nut with a wrench. 

 

Finally gave up and switched to an Edmund 6". The knobs on the back made collimation take about ten seconds. Good enough for a start, and then tweaked it on Polaris. The mirror is pretty dirty though, which is why I hesitated to start with it. 

 

Chip W. 

[jragsdale]

JUST NOT ENOUGH TIME. Looks like hit number 4 is coming fast with a another cane coming my way. This could be the end for sure for me and the house and whatever is left. If the house goes i am gone for good.

Hopefully it'll peter out to a TS before it gets to you. Offer is open though if you find the time. Get all the junk out of the trunk in one fell swoop and get a decent return on it as well, better than having to toss it all.

[deSitter]

JUST NOT ENOUGH TIME. Looks like hit number 4 is coming fast with a another cane coming my way. This could be the end for sure for me and the house and whatever is left. If the house goes i am gone for good.

No Chas, there is no bad storm coming yet. It's mid November, and even in a wrecked climate it will be hard to make a strong storm.

 

-drl

[deSitter]

Fixed a tracking glitch and flocked the baffle of my new ETX105. This scope has absolutely great optics! It's in mint condition. Not a mark anywhere. Deforking the 105 is an ordeal. You have to remove the tube from the back body before prising out that part from the fork arms. Next time I will loosen the fork arms from inside the azimuth housing beforehand, so they can splay outward.

 

-drl

Edited by deSitter, 13 November 2024 - 09:20 AM.

[deSitter]

Spent about 2 hours fighting with one of the loaner RV6 scopes, trying to collimate it so it can go out to a student. I've concluded that the secondary spider isn't centered, and it doesn't look like there is enough thread on the studs to get it back to center. I wonder if the tension has warped the tube? I could get the laser collimator (a Glatter) centered on the primary, but when I the collimate the primary, the return is partly cut off. The focuser may also be at an angle. And why did they use English unit hardware on the primary cell and metric on the secondary? The primary screws also spin freely, so to takes pliers to hold the screw while turning the nut with a wrench. 

 

Finally gave up and switched to an Edmund 6". The knobs on the back made collimation take about ten seconds. Good enough for a start, and then tweaked it on Polaris. The mirror is pretty dirty though, which is why I hesitated to start with it. 

 

Chip W. 

I wouldn't waste time with highbrow tools on an f/8 scope.

 

Yes I discovered that spider tension was warping my RV-6 tube, so I added 1/2 height jam nuts on the inside of the tube to control that.

 

At f/8, center the spider hub and you're good.

 

-drl

[andylsun]

Spent last night debugging an issue with the RA motor cable on a Takahashi EM-100 + PD5-XY

The pins on the RA cable connector had been shuffled after the head shell fell apart.

Beautiful old school mount (a NJP with a new name?) and electronics. Should be able to get it fully functional after ohming out the DEC cable.

Edited by andylsun, 13 November 2024 - 10:18 AM.

[CHASLX200]

No Chas, there is no bad storm coming yet. It's mid November, and even in a wrecked climate it will be hard to make a strong storm.

 

-drl

Not yet chet.  Always next year and within 10 years we will get the real deal with a CAT5 with gust over 200mph.  Best to sell the house for 40k and get out now.